In this dream world, a stuffed Russian bear and balalaika players complement the mismatched prerevolutionary silver, with which you carve your caviar-stuffed trout. Most of the menu is Russian, with a few French influences. You'll also notice the wonderful balcony, the gold paint—and the other tourists. It's kitsch, but fun. Nightly for dinner. $$$$. Most major credit cards. Teatralny 1/4 (in the Hotel Metropol), Moscow. Phone 499-270-1063 (after 3 pm). http://metropol-moscow.ru.
