This three-story mansion just off Pushkin Square looks and feels like the kind of society restaurant described in one of the author's novels. The food, mostly traditional Russian, is far superior to that in many other fancy places. And prices are surprisingly reasonable, given the lavish decor and elaborately costumed waiters. Service is excellent. Daily 24 hours. All floors not open at the same time, some from noon-midnight. $$$. Most major credit cards. Tverskoy Bulvar 26-A, Moscow. Phone 495-739-0033.