This ancient port city was destroyed by the second atomic bomb dropped by U.S. forces in World War II. Today, this city on the western coast of Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan's main islands, is a thriving industrial port and a pleasant mixture of East and West, as well as a confluence of Japanese and Chinese cultures. There are a number of sites memorializing the destruction that occurred on 9 August 1945—the must-see Atomic Bomb Museum, the ruins of Urakami Cathedral (once Asia's largest church), Peace Park and a black stone obelisk that marks ground zero. Other sites in the city include the Glover Mansion (the setting of Puccini's
Madame Butterfly), which has a lovely garden providing some of the best views of the area, as well as Oranda Hill (beautiful flowers and another nice view). If you happen to be there during the Obon (Festival of the Dead) season in mid-August, stick around to watch the dragon-boat races, where 28 eight-man teams aboard sleek canoes paddle measured (but furious) strokes in the races, chanting to the beat of drums and gongs. A day trip can be made to the village of
Arita, known for its distinctive handmade porcelain.
Beyond Nagasaki, there are several other places on Kyushu that are worth a look.
Beppu has exciting nightlife and is a great place to relax at a hot-springs spa (complete with geysers and mud baths). When visiting the fumaroles and geysers in the Kannawa section of Beppu, don't miss the shrine devoted to fertility and procreation located near the Ashiya Hotel: It's like a combination museum/fun house, with historical, cultural and whimsical exhibits pertaining to sex.
Kagoshima is situated at the southernmost tip of Kyushu. It's dominated by the view of (and sometimes ash fallout from) volcanic Mount Sakurajima, located on an island in the center of Kagoshima Bay. It is also the jumping-off point for the subtropical islands that lie between Kyushu and Okinawa (most notably Yakushima, a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site for its massive, ancient stands of cedar trees.
Fukuoka, about a three-hour train ride northeast of Nagasaki, is the largest city in Kyushu and is surrounded by plenty of industry. Besides its local crafts (including silk and Hakata dolls), the city is noted for its annual festival (plan to overnight there). Other Kyushu sites worth mentioning are Mount Aso National Park, site of the largest active volcano in the world; Takachiho Gorge, the legendary cradle of Japanese civilization; and Kirishima Yaku National Park, a chain of volcanoes with excellent hiking trails. Nagasaki is 594 mi/956 km southwest of Tokyo.
