Indonesia has at least 36 national parks and national preserves, though the national park system is not well-developed for tourism, and many parks require both a permit and a guide. In most cases, getting both of these is straightforward and not particularly time-consuming. The following parks are spectacular and worth visiting:
Bali Barat National Park—In western Bali, Bali Barat is a reserve for wild oxen and Rothschild's starlings and has an offshore coral reef. Menjangan (Deer) Island, part of the park, is a haven for divers with spectacular wall dives and excellent snorkeling.
Baluran National Park—In northeastern Java, this is a forested area dominated by Mount Baluran. It was once known as "Indonesia's Africa" because of its savanna grasslands, but they're largely gone now—as is much of the birdlife. There are deer and water buffalo in the park, as well as two guesthouses. Dry season is the better time to visit, as at that time you have a better chance of spotting wildlife around salt licks and waterholes.
Meru Betiri National Park—At the southeastern tip of Java, this park has a superb rain forest (leeches included), but visitor numbers remain very low because of primitive accommodations and difficulty of access. The park is reputed as the last refuge of the near-extinct Java Tiger, and although no evidence of them has been seen since the late 1990s, the park's excellent turtle conservation programs are certainly worth a look. Grajagan Bay is a great place for surfing, but challenging to reach overland.
Bromo-Tengger National Park—This park, surrounding the spectacular Semeru Volcano, lies 70 mi/112 km southeast of Surabaya. It was closed temporarily in mid-2004 because of volcanic eruptions and was briefly put on heightened alert in 2006. Check its status before visiting. Attractions include excellent hiking (the best time is April-November), interesting mountain villages and crater lakes. Guides and horses may be hired for a trip into the caldera. The sunrise viewed from the top is a must, but be sure to take some warm clothes—it gets very cold at the summit.
Kelimutu National Park—This park in southern Flores includes the famed tricolored lakes, within the caldera of a dormant volcano. The lake is divided into three sections, each with distinct colors that mysteriously change from aquamarine to chocolate black to blood red. The three are never the same color at the same time.
Komodo National Park—On Komodo Island, this park is home to the famed giant lizards. It also has cockatoos, wild pigs and cows. Accessible only by boat or seaplane, there is limited overnight accommodation and food at the ranger station. Ringed by beautiful coral- and pink-sand beaches, this is a remote but fascinating destination.
Lore Lindu National Park—A large park in central Sulawesi, Lore Lindu offers excellent trekking opportunities, spectacular mountain forests, Lake Lindu and many bird species. Get your permits at Palu and enter the park from Wuasa or Sidaunta.
Gunung Leuser National Park—Covering a large area of Sumatra west of Medan and north of Lake Toba, this park is seldom explored. Most of the area is mountainous, with the exception of the Alas River Valley (rafting trips down the Alas afford sensational views). In the park you can see leopards, orangutans, black apes, gibbons, elephants and other animals. The Bohorok Orangutan Rehabilitation Centre, within the park at Bukit Lawang, makes an interesting day trip from Medan. This is also a popular base for straightforward trekking.
Gunung Palung National Park—This rain-forest reserve in western Kalimantan is a good place to see orangutans, gibbons and other primates. A permit is required from the National Park Service office at Pontianak, some 56 mi/90 km north of the park entrance. Badly damaged by fire in the late 1990s, the park has now recovered and is actively promoted as a tourist destination, though tourist infrastructure remains limited.
Tanjung Puting National Park—Set in southern Kalimantan, Tanjung has many forest trails and an orangutan research center founded by Canadian researcher Dr. Birute Galdikar in the early 1970s. Young orangutans are reintroduced to the jungle at the center, but many adults remain close by and drop out of the trees in great numbers at feeding time. It's an overwhelming sight. The park is also the home of the proboscis monkey. To get there, fly from Banjarmasin to Pangkalanbun. Allow at least three to four days for the trip. Accommodation is basic. Contact the National Park Service office for more information.
Tankoko Batuangus Reserve—This reserve is in northern Sulawesi (the nearest airport is at Manado). The area has hot springs, craters and a variety of birds and animals, but the reserve is particularly well-known for its stunning hornbills.
Ujung Kulon National Park—In far-southwestern Java, World Heritage Site Ujung Kulon is the home of the almost extinct single-horned Javan rhino. Leopards, crocodiles, macaques, gibbons and leaf monkeys also inhabit the area. A permit is needed to visit the park, available from the park service in Bogor or Labuhan. Travel there by boat from Labuhan. There are bungalows on nearby Handeleum and Peucang Islands, with the latter also offering more upmarket accommodation.
Way Kambas Reserve—The Way Kambas Reserve in southeast Sumatra is mostly grassland and is best-known for its elephant-watching potential, as it is home to more than 500 Sumatran elephants. Other wildlife includes rhinos, macaques and gibbons. Bird-watching is good, too. The nearest port is Lampung.
