Nevis, a green cone topped by cloud-covered Mount Nevis, is evolving rapidly from a sleepy backwater into a hideaway of the well-to-do. The island, though small, is intensely green and hilly, with magnificent beige- and white-sand beaches, coral reefs and gorgeous tropical flowers. The towns on the island are tiny, including Charlestown, the main city and port, and Newcastle, the site of the Vance W. Armory International Airport (NEV).
Must See or Do
Sights—Montpelier Estate; the Bath Hotel; numerous plantation inns.
Museums—Museum of Nevis History; Nevis Library and Archives.
Memorable Meals—Sunset Beach Bar and Grill; Cafe des Arts and Bananas; Coconut Grove Restaurant and Wine Lounge.
Late Night—The Double Deuce; Sunshines; V's Courtyard Restaurant.
Walks—A history or rain-forest tour of the island.
Especially for Kids—Occasions Entertainment Arcade; horseback riding through the botanical gardens at Montpelier Estate.
Potpourri
The Bath Hotel, built in the late 17th century, has hot springs that have been visited by a number of dignitaries and celebrities.
In 1822, on the Eden Brown Estate, a duel took place between Julia Huggins' fiancee and brother the day before the wedding. The fiacee was injured, and the wedding did not take place. It is said that the spirit of Julia Huggins still haunts the grounds, tortured because she did not get to marry her true love.
Sightseeing
The island of Nevis is a remarkable collection of both simple tropical pleasures and colorful historical surroundings. The best way to experience its personality is to savor both assets, if possible. Rain forests, reefs and ruins might sum up most of the attractions there, but the rich stories behind each can take a lifetime to unearth. Contact the Nevis Historical and Conservation Society for one of its exceptional tours; ride one of the Heritage Plantation Inn carriages through historic Gingerland for a glimpse of a bygone era; climb to Herbert Heights Village for the best vantage point of the island, or visit the botanical gardens on Montpelier Estate. Marine enthusiasts will want to contact Barbara Whitman at the Oualie Beach Resort for her memorable expertise on sea life of the region, and visit the aquarium.
Recreation
Nevis has many beautiful beaches and hideouts. Buses or taxis can take you directly to most of them. Most of the popular beaches are located on the northwestern side of the island. If you love watersports, rent some windsurfing equipment or test your skills on the waves with a Jet Ski. For serenity, do some snorkeling or scuba diving. And if you want to take on the challenge, book a boat to take you fishing.
There is a lot for the whole family to do if the beach doesn't satisfy your needs. Rent a mountain bike and venture through scenic villages. For a different experience, you might prefer to explore the rain forest on horseback or take advantage of one of the many hiking or walking tours that allow you to set a leisurely pace. For those who choose land over water, you can spend your morning or afternoon playing tennis or golf to your heart's content.
Beaches
When you're ready to hit the water, you'll find that one of the island's most beautiful beaches is Pinney's (on the west coast). It's a long (4 mi/7 km) stretch of golden sand that is lined with groves of palm trees. Its reef-protected waters are ideal for swimming and snorkeling. It's a half-hour walk or a US$5 taxi ride north of Charlestown. On the beach is the Four Seasons resort, where you can have a look around and enjoy the same clear blue water as the paying guests. (The beach is public, but occupying one of the resort chairs will cost you.) And be sure to check out Cades Bay, Oualie Beach, Lovers Beach, Newcastle Beach and Nisbet Beach.
Oualie Beach is north of Pinney's Beach and is smaller and more laid-back. It has the best watersports facilities on the island. It is a US$13 cab ride from town.
Boating & Sailing
Sea Nevis Charter Boat at Jones Estate provides day sails and water-taxi service between St. Kitts and Nevis (phone 869-469-9239). Leeward Island Charters offers catamaran sails from Nevis on the Caino (phone 869-465-7474). They include lunch on the beach and snorkeling.
Fishing
Anglers can try their luck for wahoo, tuna, red snapper, kingfish, dorado, dolphin (the fish, not the mammal) and barracuda. There is one fishing boat available for half-day trips, which can accommodate six people (US$50). We recommend booking by phone with Nevis Water Sports at least one day in advance (phone 869-469-9060).
Venture 3, operated by Claude Nisbet, can be booked for fishing charters. Phone 869-469-9837 or 869-664-5188.
Hiking & Walking
Nature lovers find much to like on this small, green island—lovely seashores, rain forests and spectacular views. Two main routes lead up to the summit of Mount Nevis: the Hamilton Trail and the Zetlands Trail. Zetlands is a bit shorter, but Hamilton Trail, the recommended route, is easier to find. Wear nonslip shoes or boots, because the trail is constantly muddy. The hike up the 3,232-ft-/985-m-high peak takes about five hours round-trip and is strenuous. Hiring a guide is highly recommended. Call a local tour company for a guide.
Top to Bottom Walking Tours offers a dynamic range of tours, from rain-forest lore to bush medicine and historical-ruins exploration (phone 869-469-9080). Sunrise Tours offers similar packages (phone 869-469-2758).
Scuba & Snorkeling
You can snorkel off the beach at Newcastle Bay, Pinney's Beach and Oualie Beach. But some of the better spots are best reached by boat. You can rent gear and hire a boat from Scuba Safaris at Oualie Beach or from the Four Seasons resort. Prices range from US$45 for a snorkel safari to US$125 for a resort course and dive, with gear rental available. A night dive costs US$80. Phone 869-469-9518 for information or check the Web site. http://www.scubanevis.com.
In the event of a diving emergency, the Diver's Alert Network (DAN) will provide treatment advice and, if necessary, arrange for evacuation. Phone 919-684-8111 or 919-684-4326. (Both lines connect to DAN's headquarters in the U.S. and accept collect calls.) DAN also answers health-related questions about diving. For more information, phone 919-684-2948 or toll-free 800-326-3822. http://www.diversalertnetwork.org.
Nightlife
Hotels generally have string or steel bands most weekends. Call ahead to your destination of choice to find out where the "lime" (local term used for having fun) is. Try the Four Seasons for more upscale, tourist-oriented entertainment. Phone 869-469-1111. Other popular spots are Chevy's Beach Bar on Pinney's Beach; Eddy's Bar (phone 869-469-5958), which offers dinner followed by keraoke or music spun by DJ Jez; or you can dance the night away at V's Courtyard Restaurant (phone 869-469-1854).
Shopping
Shopping is duty-free on Nevis. Look for local artisan crafts for the best buys; European and North American goods such as imported crystal, woolens, perfumes, watches and china sell at much higher prices because of transportation costs. Also shop for copperware, stamps, local beer and rum, and local handicrafts such as embroidery, local fabrics (especially batiks) and locally produced clothing.
Charlestown has an eclectic selection of small shops that have gone more upscale since the Four Seasons resort opened. Island Hopper, which carries Caribelle Batik's art and clothing, is in the TDC Plaza arcade on Main Street. Shops sell everything from local art to tacky souvenirs in the Cotton Ginnery Mall, a waterfront complex where Nevisians once gathered to sell cotton. Make sure to visit the Nevis Craft Cooperative Shop in the Mall to purchase some locally made products. The farmer's market is located right next door, and you can buy local produce such as tannia, christophene, plantain and breadfruit and have a real local experience.
The Gallery of Nevis Art near the Hamilton Museum shows folk art, ceramic sculptures and paintings by local artists. For truly lightweight souvenirs, pick up some of the colorful Nevis stamps, prized by collectors, at the Nevis Philatelic Bureau on Market Street, about two blocks from the pier.
If you're island shopping, be sure to stop in at the Conch Shell Boutique at Nisbet Plantation, the Four Seasons Gift Shop, the botanical gardens gift shop and Newcastle Pottery.
Shopping Hours: Monday-Friday 8 am-4 pm, Saturday 8 am-6 pm. Some smaller shops close for lunch noon-1 or 2 pm.
Local Tours
Most taxi drivers offer island tours. Expect to spend about US$20 per person for a four-hour tour.
Day Plans
To help you make the most of your limited time, we've designed three different itineraries for Nevis.Day Plans
PLAN APinney's Beach and Charlestown
You'll want to have dinner at one of the plantation inns. Make your reservations early in the day. Then hire a cab and head north to palm-studded Pinney's Beach—plenty of space for secluded strolling, swimming and sunning. (Arrange for the driver to return later.) Don't forget to ask for a Killer Bee at Sunshine's Beach Bar.
Afterward, have your taxi driver drop you at Muriel's or Cafe des Arts in Charlestown for an unpretentious but delicious lunch. Then stroll through the Museum of Nevis History, the Gallery of Nevis Art, the Jewish Cemetery and the Lord Nelson Museum. Visit a few shops, then freshen up before going out for dinner, perhaps at Unella's By The Sea in Hunkins Plaza on the waterfront.
PLAN B
Snorkeling/Island Tour
Head for Oualie Beach and rent snorkeling equipment for the morning. (Ask your taxi driver to return for you after lunch.) You'll be amazed at the number of multicolored fish and coral in the clear water. After you've spent enough time down under, enjoy the above-water views, too—you'll see St. Kitts floating off the horizon, like a mirage. Have lunch at the Oualie Beach Restaurant, where you can sit outside in the shade just off the beach.
When your taxi driver returns, have him take you to the Baths for a look around before heading to the gracious Hermitage Plantation Inn. The Fig Tree Church is worth a stop if you'd like to see a little church with a big history, but by all means save time for Golden Rock Estate. Although it's interesting to see how sugar is processed using windmills, the walk through the forest, with many specimens labeled, is our idea of the perfect way to end a day on Nevis.
PLAN C
The Nature Hike
Start early. Pack a picnic lunch and hire a guide for a hike up Mount Nevis. Depending on your hiking skill and stamina, you can trudge through the rain forest or up to the peak. (If you make it to the top, pause to admire the panoramic views and have lunch overlooking the sea.) Another hike to consider is up Saddle Hill, where the views are just as spectacular. (You'll come across Nelson's Lookout, from which the British admiral annoyed the Nevisians: He watched for Spanish and French ships and then impounded them so they couldn't trade with the newly independent U.S.)
Chances are you'll want to laze on the beach in the afternoon. Ask your guide to drop you at Pinney's Beach, where you can hang with the resort guests at the Four Seasons and dine in the Dining Room or meet the locals at the pool cabana—try a Bee Sting with your grilled lobster—and romp in the surf afterward.
Dining Overview
Local foods include pork, lobster, conch, goat water (a meat and vegetable stew), fresh fish, jerk chicken (a spicy Jamaican dish), pepper pot peas, black pudding, pawpaws (papayas), yams, pumpkins and seasonal fruits such as soursop and mammy apples. Be sure to try some jelly water, the juice of local coconuts. Another local specialty is Johnny cake, a side dish of dough fried lightly in oil—it takes skill to make them so soft, and the locals take pride in doing them well. We recommend trying everything, including a flying-fish sandwich and lobster and conch served in a spicy curry sauce.
The prices in hotel restaurants may seem steep at first, but the food served is some of the best in the Caribbean.
Breakfast in Nevis usually is served at around 7 am. Lunch is at noon, and those dining out generally have dinner around 8 pm.
Expect to pay within these guidelines for a meal for one, not including drinks, tax or tip: $ = less than US$15; $$ = US$15-$25; $$$ = US$26-$55; and $$$$ = more than US$55.
Personal Safety
Nevis is considered safe. But take the usual precautions: Don't leave valuables unattended on the beach or in a rental car. Don't travel alone at night or carry large amounts of money, and avoid isolated areas. Make sure that transportation is available to carry you to your destination and back to your accommodations. Once you apply some basic safety precautions you will have a very pleasant visit. Because of hurricanes and tropical storms in the Caribbean, it is advisable to check with weather experts and follow the course of regional weather changes prior to and during your visit.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Health
You can safely eat the food and drink the tap water on Nevis. Alexandra Hospital is on Government Road in Charlestown (phone 869-469-5473). It has a 24-hour emergency room. Dial 911 for police or ambulance. Dial 869-469-5391 for the fire department.
A hepatitis A vaccination is recommended. Do take along sunscreen, sunglasses, a hat, comfortable walking shoes and insect repellent. Mosquitoes are prevalent in the evening and can cause dengue fever, so cover up and use a reliable insect repellent. You should always carry a sufficient supply of your own medication and a copy of the prescription, so that if you need medical attention the information is available.
For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Hotel Overview
Accommodations range from deluxe beachfront hotels to bungalows, guesthouses, restored plantation homes, villas, inns, condominiums and local hotels. Most are well run, clean and more than adequate.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.
Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
Time Zone: Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Currency Exchange
The island's main banks are on Main Street in Charlestown, and include the Bank of Nova Scotia, Barclay's Bank PLC, St. Kitts-Nevis National Bank, Bank of Nevis and RBTT. Banks are open Monday-Thursday 8 am-2 pm, Friday 8 am-4 pm and Saturday 8:30 am-11 am.
ATMs on the island accommodate most major bank and credit cards. Most operate 24 hours and dispense local currency. Note: ATMs at the St. Kitts Marriott Hotel and Casino dispense U.S. dollars.
Banking Hours
Monday-Friday 8 am-1 pm and Friday 3-5 pm, Saturday 8:30-11 am.
Taxes
When you are leaving St. Kitts and Nevis you must pay a departure tax at the airport after you have checked in. The fee is US$22, payable by cash or credit card.
Tipping
At most hotels and restaurants, a service charge of 10%-15% is automatically added to the bill. Additional tipping for individual waitstaff is left to the discretion of the customer.
What to Wear
The climate is very warm year-round, so cool summer clothing should be worn. In the evening, the temperature drops, so take a lightweight jacket or shawl. The sun can be a real scorcher, so make sure you wear sunblock, a wide-brimmed hat and cover-up to avoid sunburn, especially at the beach. The sand gets very hot, so sandals should be worn. Nude bathing is not permitted. You will want to have a good mosquito repellent because the bugs come out just before the sun goes down.
Business as usual is conducted in a professional manner with summer suits and conservative clothing. Visitors are advised to dress modestly at all times. Although the form of dress is casual, swimwear and inappropriate clothing are not acceptable. Evening attire is smart-casual or formal depending on the occasion.
Telephone
International calls may be made at Cable and Wireless, the local telephone company, in Charlestown. Caribbean phone cards, which are available from various retailers, are the easiest and cheapest way to make international calls from the islands. Other service providers are Digicel and UTS Cariglobe.
Internet Access
Internet access is available at the public library in Charlestown, above the courthouse and at Downtown Cybercafe on Main Street. Phone 869-469-1995.
Mail & Package Services
The main post office is on Main Street, within easy walking distance of town. Monday-Friday 8 am-3:30 pm. Phone 869-469-5521.
Newspapers & Magazines
The best place to get current information is by contacting the Ministry of Tourism at 869-469-5521. Periodicals can be found at supermarkets and Chapter 1 Bookstore, located in the Cotton Ginnery Mall. Local newspapers include
The Labour Spokesman,
The Democrat,
The St. Kitts-Nevis Observer,
The Leeward Times and
The Sun St. Kitts. International and regional newspapers are also available.
Car
Rental cars are available starting at US$45-US$55 a day. Free delivery and pickup at the airport and the pier are provided. Driving is on the left. There's really only one main road—appropriately called Main Road—and it's narrow, curvy and bumpy. Fortunately, there isn't much traffic. If you do rent a car, consider a four-wheel drive for the sections where pavement turns to dirt. Drivers must be at least 25 and must purchase a license from the police station for US$25. Rental-car companies have offices on both islands: If you pay for several days on one island and visit the other island during that time, you can pick up a rental car there at no extra charge.
Ferry
The
Caribe Queen,
Carib Breeze,
Geronimo,
Mark Twain and
Sea Hustler make the trip between Charlestown and Basseterre in about 45 minutes daily for US$9. Call the Ministry of Communications for schedules at 869-465-2521 or visit the respective Web sites. Some private boat operators, such as ProDivers (phone 869-465-3223), offer taxi service between the two islands. The Four Seasons has regular water-taxi service from St. Kitts to Nevis but only for guests of the resort. There is a ferry located on the Southeastern Peninsula that carries cars between St. Kitts and Nevis. Phone 869-662-7002 or 869-765-7053.
Ship
Cruise ships dock at the Port Zante cruise-terminal pier in St. Kitts, which is being expanded to handle even more large vessels. For additional information, contact the operations manager of Charlestown Port at 869-469-0393 or St. Christopher Air & Sea Ports Authority at 869-465-8121 or 869-465-8124.
Taxi
Taxis are always waiting at the Vance W. Armory International Airport, at the cruise port and in town. Most are available for either short hauls or custom tours (about US$10-$15 an hour). Contact Nevis Ministry of Tourism at 869-469-5521 for current information. Its Web site (http://www.sknvibes.com) has a taxi-fare listing that can serve as a guide.
Taxis are not metered, so agree on rates and currency being quoted before getting in the cab. Overall, taxis are by far the most convenient, secure and congenial method of transportation. You will spend more money than renting a car yourself, but if you are not a driving enthusiast, leave the driving to the professionals and get an island guide as part of the deal. An additional 50% is charged beyond the usual rate for hiring a taxi 10 pm-6 am.
Private minibuses operate frequently between the islands' villages; they are mostly used by islanders.
