Jean-Georges Vongerichten's latest venture hosts the fabulous crowd of the West Village and any other mortals who manage to get a reservation. The restaurant is located on the ground floor of the Richard Meier building, overlooking the Hudson River. The interiors are harmonious and minimalist with off-white leather upholstered booths faintly lit by Prouve lamps. The rice-cracker-crusted tuna and the roasted chicken with white beans are refined and comforting at once. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations highly recommended. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 176 Perry St., at West Street (subway line 1 to Christopher Street-Sheridan Square), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 212-352-9100. http://www.jean-georges.com.