You may wonder if Wylie Dufresne is a chef or a mad scientist, but his quirky new-American flavors get people talking—pickled beef tongue with fried mayonnaise cubes and pork belly with smoked yucca are just two of his creations. For a variety of surprises, try the nine-course tasting menu (US$115). Daily for dinner. Reservations recommended, but you can occasionally get a table as a walk-in. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. 50 Clinton St., at Rivington Street (subway line F, J, M or Z to Delancey-Essex), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 212-477-2900. http://www.wd-50.com.
