Jean-Georges Vongerichten redefines Chinese food with his unique interpretation of such dishes as crispy tofu and scallion pancakes. The stunning minimalist atmosphere is unlike that of any Chinese restaurant you've ever been in. Daily for dinner (Thursday-Saturday until midnight). Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 241 Church St., at Leonard Street (subway line A, C or E to Canal or Chambers; 1 to Franklin Street), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 212-925-0202. http://www.jean-georges.com.
