Splurge on the US$65 tasting menu (US$110 with wine pairings) at this deliciously sophisticated Indian restaurant, headed by cookbook author Suvir Saran and specializing in Indian home-cooking. You'll never think of okra in the same way again. Open Monday-Saturday for lunch and dinner; Sunday for dinner only. Reservations recommended. $$. Most major credit cards. 8 E. 18th St., between Fifth Avenue and Broadway (subway line L, N, Q, R, 4, 5 or 6 to 14th Street-Union Square; 1 to 18th Street), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 212-691-1300. http://www.devinyc.com.