This tiny, below-sidewalk-level Chinatown gem is very cheap and open all night. We like the flavorful wonton soups, chicken in black-bean sauce and the chow-fun noodles. More adventurous palates will enjoy the Cantonese crab. Daily 24 hours. $. No credit cards. 17 Mott St., between Canal Street and Park Row (subway line F to East Broadway), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 212-962-8617.