The impeccable design and menu are a mix of French method and Japanese style. Red lacquered chests with large lotus-leaf arrangements decorate the main restaurant and pear-wood bar overlooking the kitchen. Try amadai fish in a Japanese citrus broth with lily bulb, it is otherworldly. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations required. $$$$. Most major credit cards. 57 E. 57th St. (subway line N, R or W to Fifth Avenue-59th Street; 4, 5 or 6 to Lexington Avenue-59th Street), Manhattan, New York City. Phone 212-758-5700.