A Nile cruise is simply the easiest way to see the major sights of Egypt. The most common cruise is a three-, four- or seven-day trip between Aswan and Luxor on a simple felucca. When reading about Nile cruises, remember that "Upper Nile" refers to the
southern portion and "Lower Nile" is downstream, closer to the Mediterranean.
Deluxe cruise: There are several ships that cruise between Luxor and Aswan. (A boat with a swimming pool will help while away the hours if you think you may tire of the scenery.) If the cruise leaves from Luxor but does not allow time to see area sights, be sure to get there at least two days early for sightseeing. The typical cruise (which can be done in either direction) is about six days long; most have an itinerary similar to the following:
Day 1—Depart Luxor. (The boat usually leaves late enough to allow you to see Luxor Temple during the day and the Temple of Karnak sound-and-light show in the evening. If not, get there a day early.)
Day 2—Sail downstream (north) to see the temples in Dendera and Abydos.
Day 3—Return upstream (south) to Luxor to visit the Valleys of the Kings and Queens and Tombs of the Nobles.
Day 4—Continue upstream to the temples in Esna and Edfu.
Day 5—Continue upstream to the temple at Kom Ombo, then on to Aswan to visit Elephantine Island and the botanical gardens on Kitchener's Island.
Day 6—Morning tour of the Temple of Philae, the Granite Quarries and the dams, then depart cruise.
Felucca ride: If you're an adventurous traveler who can tolerate some discomfort, you may enjoy a felucca ride down the Nile. To go downstream from Aswan to Luxor is faster, less expensive and easier to arrange than vice versa (from Aswan, it takes about five days to reach Luxor). There are organized tours that can be booked from North America, or the Nubian captains on the waterfront in Aswan can be hired individually for a fraction of the price, though it might not be worth the hassle, if you are pressed for time. Some of the better captains will also provide very simple meals, but confirm this before agreeing upon a price. We recommend buying food with the felucca captain at a local market. Make sure he has sufficient food for all his crew, if he brings one. Each night the boat docks on an island or on shore, and you sleep out on deck. During the day, you usually just sit directly on the deck, relax and watch the rolling hills, smoky villages and beautiful birds float by (but should the wind disappear, you may be asked to man an oar). Stops along the way should include Kom Ombo, Edfu and Esna. If you haven't prebooked the trip, during negotiations with the captain you should insist upon paying at the conclusion of the trip rather than in advance, to avoid unpleasant surprises (though it's only fair that you pay for the police permit, and possibly food, in advance). Make sure to bring toilet paper and bug repellent.
