This strip of northern France stretches along the English Channel between Brittany and the Pays du Nord. The region offers bucolic scenery (rendered on canvas by impressionist painters), splendid beaches, quaint villages, rich green pastures and lots of history. William the Conqueror launched his invasion of England from Normandy. It's also where Edward III landed to begin the Hundred Years War and where the Allied forces launched the liberation of Europe in 1944. Most parts of Normandy are two or three hours from Paris by train or car.
Many people go just to see the World War II fortifications and landing beaches. Others go to see the 170-acre/70-hectare American Military Cemetery in Colleville-sur-Mer, part of the area code-named Omaha Beach during the Allied attack. Its rows of gravestones stretch out as far as the eye can see. This moving landscape gives a palpable sense of the heroism and sacrifices of D-Day.
Nearby Bayeux, one of the first towns to be liberated by Allied forces, made it through the battle relatively unscathed. Today it has a beautiful city center, dominated by an imposing Gothic cathedral. The town's pride and joy, however, is the Bayeux Tapestry, an extraordinary embroidered rendering of Duke William's conquest of England in 1066. Its origins are unclear, but it's believed to date at least to the mid-15th century.
At the edge of the D-Day landing area is the town of Caen. You may think it looks familiar—it's often painted by artists. In town is a must-see museum, the Memorial de Caen, which explains in-depth the history of Europe in the 20th century. The museum covers the two world wars and the creation of modern Europe. There is a lot of emphasis on the American contribution during both world wars.
The mansions of Colomby and Escoville are particularly striking. Unfortunately, little remains of Caen's old town. It was almost completely destroyed by bombardment in the days after D-Day in June 1944, when the British fought to recapture the town from the Germans. Its two abbeys, Abbaye-aux-Hommes and Abbaye-aux-Dames—founded by William the Conqueror and his wife, Mathilde, in the 11th century—did survive with little damage. The Church of St. Etienne, in the Abbaye-aux-Hommes, combines Romanesque towers and Gothic spires to glorious effect. The nearby Museum of the Battle of Normandy is a rarity—it's a "war" museum that is truly a peace museum, and it examines many of the causes that led to World War II.
Farther east along the coast is Deauville, which has been for generations a favorite retreat for wealthy Parisians. It has a casino, extravagant seaside hotels (including the much-admired Tudor-style Normandy Hotel) and a superb beach and boardwalk (promenade des planches) for strolling and people-watching. (Note the private dressing rooms on the beach that use the names of Hollywood film stars instead of numbers.)
Every September the city hosts the American Film Festival. Though less famous than its rival in Cannes, it's gaining in popularity. Horseracing is a favorite at Deauville's Hippodrome in the summer—Deauville has been called the Ascot of France. While in town, see the Port Deauville marina and the posh spa.
Though Le Havre is usually thought of as a place to get on or off a ship, there is a bit more to this major seaport. We enjoyed staying two nights and seeing Granville Abbey, the view from St. Adresse Fort, the Seine estuary, the Ocean Dock, the town hall, the fine-arts museum and Avenue Foch. About 20 mi/32 km north of Le Havre is Etretat, with its spectacular and often-photographed cliffs (you'll recognize them instantly).
Dieppe, a large town near the eastern edge of Normandy, has a castle containing a fine collection of ivory. The town also has a war memorial to Canadians who died in a massive 1942 raid (the German occupiers thought it was the invasion of Europe). Below the cliff upon which the castle was built is a long beach of round stones, which gives way to a fine sand beach at low tide.
Other interesting Normandy towns include Falaise (to see the castle of William the Conqueror), Honfleur (an often-painted harbor) and St. Laurent (the American cemetery for soldiers who died in Normandy during World War II, buried under rows of white crosses). The Contentin peninsula has many picturesque corners, including the fishing villages of Barfleur and Port-Bail. It's worth a side trip to see the Nez de Joburg, an impressive series of cliffs overlooking the sea. At its tip is Cherbourg, a port with ferry service to England. Smaller ports on the west coast offer the shortest access to the Channel Islands. Plan at least three nights in Normandy.
