Oahu is the political, economic and population hub of Hawaii, assuming a place of importance that sets it apart from the rest of the state, which is often clumped into the designation of "Neighbor Islands."
Oahu is dominated by Honolulu, Hawaii's largest city. Although the high-rise office buildings and traffic-snarled freeways don't match many people's romantic ideal of what Hawaii should be, we feel that the multicultural mix of the island is the best reason to go. In a way, Oahu has the best of all the islands: city life, lush greenery, beautiful beaches and great historic sites.
History
Oahu was an independent fiefdom controlled by a succession of Polynesian chiefs until the 1780s. That's when the ambitious king of Maui, Kahekili, conquered Oahu and killed its chief—his own stepson—in a bid to enlarge his territories. After Kahekili's death, his sons battled one another for control of the islands. This division made it easier for the now-legendary Kamehameha I to conquer all of the Hawaiian Islands. With the help of Westerners with firearms, Kamehameha's troops took Oahu in 1795 in a rout that ultimately forced the defenders to flee to the mountains behind Honolulu and over the cliffs at Nuuanu Pali. His court was set up in Waikiki, then moved to Honolulu in 1809.
During the first half of the 1800s, Oahu saw the same influx of foreign missionaries and whalers that arrived on other Hawaiian Islands. By the 1840s, Honolulu was a busy port town doing a brisk trade in the sandalwood harvested on the island. Sandalwood later gave way to sugar, and laborers from China, Japan, Portugal and the Philippines were brought in to work the plantations.
After U.S. sugar companies engineered the takeover of the Hawaiian Islands (they were annexed by the U.S. in 1898), Oahu's Pearl Harbor became the centerpiece of U.S. naval operations in the Pacific. On 7 December 1941, a squadron of some 400 Japanese planes attacked the base, killing more than 2,400 people and marking the entrance of the U.S. into World War II.
With the advent of jet travel in the postwar years, Honolulu became the gateway for millions of paradise-seeking vacationers, and developers built the towering hotels of Waikiki.
Potpourri
For six weeks straight—from mid-February to late March 2006, rainfall records on the islands of Kauai and Oahu were shattered. On Oahu, at the Punaluu Pumping Station, 46.93 in/119.20 cm of rain fell, beating a record of 35 in/88.90 cm set in 1921. At Kauai's Mount Waialeale, the previous record for 81.95 in/208.15 cm (set in 1951) was bested when the total soared to 130.40 in/331.22 cm.
If you want to look like a local, stick out your pinky and thumb, while tucking down your other three fingers. Called the shaka, the gesture means "hey," "great" or "thanks."
Geckos (small lizards) are rampant in Hawaii. Don't be scared of them—they're harmless, they eat bugs, and they're considered good luck.
When choosing a guava to eat, remember: The bigger the navel, the sweeter the fruit.
Flip-flops are called "slippers" on Oahu.
Sightseeing
Driving away from the glitz and crowds of Honolulu takes you to the more peaceful sights in other areas of Oahu. With striking scenery at every turn, getting wherever you're going is half the thrill. Leaving town on the H-1 Freeway east takes you past Hanauma Bay, Koko Head Regional Park, Halona Blowhole, Sandy Beach (known for excellent bodysurfing),
Follow the coast north to Sea Life Park and Makapuu Point, where you can see the offshore Rabbit and Turtle islands, as well as Maui on a clear day. This 1,000-ft-/310-m-long white-sand beach is also famous for bodysurfing and bodyboarding, and it is where the John Wayne movie In Harm's Way was filmed.
Continue north to Kailua and the Nuuanu Pali Lookout, and on to the Valley of the Temples where you can visit the Byodo-In Temple. Senator Fong's Plantation and Gardens is also in this area.
On Oahu's northeast corner, you'll find the Polynesian Cultural Center, while on the northwest side of the island you'll encounter the famous North Shore, the town of Waimea, and the Banzai Pipeline area that is famous for its waves and surfers.
Haleiwa is a quiet, rustic town that serves as the gateway to the North Shore. It has quaint shops, modest restaurants and plenty of art galleries. You can also get some great shave ice at the M. Matsumoto Grocery Store.
Some of these places are intriguing enough to take up most of a day, but it is possible to drive the whole circle in a day if you don't stop at the larger attractions—you may even have time to stop at the Dole Plantation near Wahiawa on your way back to Honolulu.
Recreation
As in Honolulu, Oahu's biggest recreational draws are beach and water activities. The island has an array of spectacular beaches, most of which are surprisingly uncrowded.
Watching expert surfers as they take on the monster waves on the North Shore is great free entertainment. The windward (east) beaches have gentler waves—good for boogie boards and, farther offshore, windsurfing.
The coastal waters are also great for various boating options, including Jet-Skiing, parasailing, wakeboarding, waterskiing, kayaking, sailing and fishing. Back on dry land, good hiking is available, and the island's 30-plus golf courses offer all levels of play along with spectacular scenery.
Beaches
Oahu has more than 125 beaches. Water temperatures range 75-80 degrees F/24-27 degrees C year-round. Waves range from placid to bone-shattering, depending on the particular beach and season.
The laid-back North Shore is tranquil in summer but pounded by spectacular waves in the winter months. Kailua Beach Park is one of the gems on the windward side—it's regularly ranked among the top beaches in the U.S.
Newcomers to Hawaiian beaches should be exceedingly careful to follow all posted guidelines and warnings. In general, don't ever swim where locals aren't swimming, as the undertows and riptides can be deadly. If you're caught in a riptide, don't fight the current; swim parallel to the beach until you escape the current, then swim to shore.
Don't touch anything when you're snorkeling unless you know exactly what it is; some sea urchins and ocean critters are venomous. Also be aware that several types of stinging jellyfish frequently wash ashore on south shore and windward beaches, so watch for the warning signs and stay out of the water. It's a good idea to check in at each beach's lifeguard tower for information on specific hazards to watch for.
Shopping
The best shopping is in Honolulu. It has a host of fabulous shopping centers and should definitely be investigated.
Outside of Honolulu, you'll run into shopping centers full of discount chains like you see at home. You'll also see plenty of small shops selling local crafts and intriguing imports. Decorative objects crafted of Hawaiian woods, such as monkeypod and the endangered koa (only naturally fallen or diseased trees can be harvested), make good gifts, as do unusual jewelry creations. Aloha wear is always a good choice, but don't buy matching items for the whole family if you want to blend in with the locals.
Roadside stands often sell fresh fruit—we've noticed that Hawaiian papaya tastes best in Hawaii—and sometimes you'll find some more exotic items to try, such as starfruit and guava.
Haleiwa Town on the North Shore has quaint shops and plenty of art galleries.
Dining Overview
Hawaiian regional cuisine blends Asian, Polynesian, mainland U.S. and European traditions. You'll find excellent Chinese, Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai and Laotian restaurants, as well as some very good Italian ones.
Fresh seafood is plentiful, and it is almost always on the menu. The shrimp trucks and shrimp shacks of the North Shore are practically legendary. Be sure to sample a casual plate lunch consisting of a Hawaiian-style entree plus two scoops of white rice and another scoop of macaroni salad. Other local treats include saimin (noodle soup), shave ice (snow cones), malasadas (hot Portuguese doughnuts sprinkled with sugar) and manapua (Chinese steamed buns filled with red pork).
Do attend at least one luau feast so that you can try some of the delicious local specialties, including tasty pit-roasted kalua pork, mahimahi, coconut cake and the infamous, gluey poi.
Personal Safety
Be aware that some sections of the leeward coast are especially popular with thieves. Pickpockets sometimes target vacationers, so hold tight to purses and expensive cameras. Also, don't assume your rental car is secure. Thieves have been known to break into parked cars at beaches, tourist attractions and major shopping centers. Never leave anything that resembles a purse inside your car, not even for a few minutes.
If you go to the beach, don't spread out your towel, dump all your belongings on it and run for the water. Even the locals don't do that. Travel light. Keep an eye on your things, and don't let your guard down.
Health
The sun in Hawaii is intense, so always use sunscreen and wear a brimmed hat to the beach. Sunglasses with 100% ultraviolet protection are a good idea year-round.
Swimming in the island's freshwater streams is not recommended. Many contain bacteria that cause leptosporosis, a relatively rare tropical disease spread by animal urine, which can cause headaches, fever, nausea, red eyes and even liver and kidney damage, respiratory failure, internal bleeding and death. Inquire locally before swimming in freshwater and pay attention to posted warning signs.
Watch for jellyfish warning signs on the beach and avoid the water when you see these signs. Jellyfish stings can be quite painful. Jellyfish such as the Portuguese man-of-war are prevalent on Oahu's east side, along Bellow's, Kailua or Lanikai beaches. They look like bubbles with a beautiful blue vein and dangerous long tendrils. They often wash up on the shore, so walk cautiously.
Also, watch out for Hawaii's aggressive centipedes. They can grow up to several inches long. You won't see them often, but if you do, stay away—their venom packs a punch. The smaller, slow-moving red millipedes are nothing to worry about.
Dos & Don'ts
Do give in to the urge to stop the car at a scenic beach you've discovered and just enjoy the moment.
Do dress for sunny and warm. Oahu has approximately 159 sunny days each year—and plenty of partially sunny days, too—and the temperature generally remains between a low of 65 degrees F/18 degrees C in the winter and high of 88 degrees F/31 degrees C in the summer.
Don't go in the ocean unless you've verified the safety of the waters. Strong currents and big waves require caution at all times.
Do take time to smell the guavas, which are sometimes found on the ground along quieter side roads just begging to be picked up.
Do display proper surfing etiquette and stay out of the path of someone who is trying to catch a wave or who is already on one. If you don't, you may get beached.
Hotel Overview
Although the leeward side is sometimes considered Oahu's wild west, the Ihilani Resort & Spa in Ko Olina is there, a luxury hotel accommodation that is the annual headquarters for the professional football players at the Pro Bowl. The Ihilani has a wonderful beach-side perspective, and its isolation makes it feel as though you're actually on a neighboring island.
On Oahu's windward side, however, there are quite a few bed-and-breakfast accommodations. Usually in very quiet neighborhoods steps from windward beaches, these blend into the residential neighborhoods, and it's more of an ohana than a resort feeling that prevails. It's a different way to see Oahu.
Geostats
Passport/Visa Requirements: All U.S. citizens must have a passport when traveling by air to or from Bermuda, Canada, the Caribbean, Central and South America and Mexico. Citizens of Canada, Mexico and the British Overseas Territory of Bermuda also must have a passport or other designated secure document to enter the U.S.
Beginning 1 June 2009, passports are required for land crossings at the Canadian and Mexican borders with the U.S. and for cruise passengers returning to the U.S. from Mexico, the Caribbean, Canada or Bermuda. Reconfirm travel-document requirements with your carrier prior to departure.
Languages: Primarily English, although Japanese, Hawaiian and other languages are also spoken.
Predominant Religions: Christian (Roman Catholic, Protestant). Buddhism and other religions are also well-represented.
Time Zone: 10 hours behind Greenwich Mean Time (-10 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Telephone Codes: 808, area code for the entire state of Hawaii;
Currency Exchange
ATMs are available at banks and shopping centers throughout the island. If you need to exchange currency, the full-service main branches of most banks handle those transactions. Banks are generally open Monday-Friday 8:30 am-3 or 4 pm. Some stay open late one evening a week or open for a half-day on Saturday. Some supermarkets have bank branches open during store hours.
Taxes
Technically there is no sales tax on Oahu, but a general-excise use tax of 4.167% is added to all goods sold. An additional 7.25% transient accommodations tax is charged, as well as a 0.55% surcharge, making the total tax on a hotel room about 11.97%.
Tipping
Tip 15%-20% for good service provided by waitstaff or tour guides. It's good to leave US$1-$2 for hotel housekeeping.
Weather
The best times to visit are from mid-May to the end of June and from mid-September to mid-November, although the entire island of Oahu has mild temperatures year-round: highs in the low 80s F/mid-20s C and lows in the 60s F/mid-teens C.
The only major change in weather from one spot to another is in rainfall. Rain is most frequent and intense October-April, though it is often raining in one area and dry in another.
The leeward coast around Honolulu is dry while the windward coast around the Koolau Mountains is rainy (especially in the winter months). Take a jacket for the cool, rainy nights.
What to Wear
We're talking casual. Shorts, T-shirts and sun cover-ups are the order of the day, but don't wear swim wear off the beach. Even business in Honolulu is causal, although you may want to pack something a bit dressier if you plan to go to a nice restaurant or the nightclubs.
If you're planning to venture off the beaten track, you'll need some mosquito repellent. You've heard this before, but it's important: Slather on plenty of sunscreen (SPF 15 or higher) if you go to the beach or just for a walk in the sun, and be sure to reapply often. During the winter, a sweater can be useful at night, and an umbrella might come in handy for both winter rains and summer sun. If you don't take an umbrella for the sun, at least wear a visor or hat.
Telephone
Hawaii (all islands) has only one area code (808), and all calls on Oahu are local calls, so just dial the seven-digit phone number.
Calls to the other Hawaiian islands are charged as local long distance and require that you dial 1, then 808, then the seven-digit phone number. Cell phone coverage generally is good on Oahu and decent on the other islands. Check ahead of time with your provider to see whether you should expect any problems or extra charges.
Internet Access
You'll find small Internet cafes scattered throughout the island. Check online to find free Wi-Fi spots. http://wififreespot.com/ha.html or http://www.wifinder.com.
Mail & Package Services
The mail services in Hawaii are the same as in the rest of the U.S. Keep in mind that no matter which service you use—postal, DHL or UPS—it will take a bit longer for packages to arrive on the U.S. mainland or at an international location. http://www.usps.com.
You can mail a coconut "postcard" from any post office. Check locally for current regulations.
Newspapers & Magazines
Honolulu has two main daily newspapers,
The Honolulu Advertiser and
The Honolulu Star-Bulletin.
Free visitor publications offering entertainment and sightseeing discounts, as well as maps and calendars of current events, include This Week Oahu, 101 Things to Do on Oahu and Spotlight's Oahu Gold.
Transportation
You'll want to have a car to explore Oahu. The island is automobile-friendly, even to those unfamiliar with its streets. There are three major freeways on the island and hundreds of connecting highways and thoroughfares.
Honolulu International Airport (HNL) is a midsized terminal, more notable for its balmy open-air design than for the latest in high-tech facilities. The more distant arrival and departure gates are linked to the terminal by the Wiki Wiki shuttle, which can be a viable option after a long flight. You can stretch your legs while taking in the fragrant scents wafting from lei stands, or get some fresh air in the peaceful interior gardens. The airport is 6 mi/10 km west of Honolulu and is in the midst of a decade-long, US$2.3 billion upgrade. For more details, call the airport information desk at 808-836-6413. http://www6.hawaii.gov/dot/airports/hnl.
Affordable interisland flights are available through Go!, Hawaiian Airlines and Island Air for as little as US$40. http://www.iflygo.com. http://hawaiianairlines.com. http://www.islandair.com.
A complete circle-island trip on TheBus takes about four hours if you don't get off. The fare is US$2 (exact change required; dollar bills accepted) regardless of the length of your journey. US$20 for a four-consecutive-day visitor pass with unlimited rides (available at ABC Stores). Phone 808-848-5555. http://www.thebus.org.
Cruise ships sail into Honolulu Harbor, offshore of downtown, and dock at the cruise-ship terminal at Pier 10 or 11. The Aloha Tower and shopping center are nearby. Chinatown and downtown Honolulu are within walking distance.
The Hawaiian Superferry runs between Oahu and Maui. One-way fares are US$49 adults, US$39 seniors and children ages 2-12, US$65 for cars and trucks, US$35 for motorcycles. The ferry leaves from Pier 19 at the corner of Nimitz Highway and Kukahi Street in Honolulu. Toll-free 877-443-3779. http://www.hawaiisuperferry.com.
