Destination Guidebook for Osaka, Japan
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Osaka Japan and the surrounding Kansai region are the country's spiritual heartland. The site of one of the earliest capitals of the country, Osaka remains a vital center for trade and entrepreneurial culture. Tokyo may have political and financial clout and Kyoto may be the repository of ancient tradition, but Osaka is the nation's honest heartbeat.
In the mid-1990s, Osaka city officials embarked upon a long-term commitment to overhaul the city's grimy and nondescript image. The skyline has since risen dramatically, and so has its profile. Stylish high-rise apartment and office buildings are no longer an oddity (particularly in Umeda, Osaka's north-central district). The architectural renaissance is bolstering Osaka's role as one of the world's most energetic cities. Indeed, it has a vibrancy that is seldom matched elsewhere in Japan. The historic areas—the castle and the shrines—are modern reconstructions, but that cannot negate Osaka's long contribution to Japanese arts and culture. The tea ceremony, flower arrangement (ikebana) and the performing arts of Bunraku, Kabuki and Noh all have their roots in the city. Osaka is known for its writers, artists, musicians and comedians.
And so Osaka's true character lies in its people. In Japan, Osakans have a reputation for being straightforward and even brash. They're hardworking but just as intent on having fun, and it is among them that the true appeal of this fascinating city can be found.
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Sights—Osaka Castle; Sumiyoshi Taisha Jinja Shrine; Shitennoji Temple and the monthly flea market; Kuromon Market; Shinsaibashi-suji shoutengai (shopping street); Herbis Plaza ENT high-end shopping mall; the food halls in department-store basements for the luscious samples.
Museums—Museum of Oriental Ceramics; Fujita Museum of Art; Osaka Museum of History; Osaka Museum of Housing and Living.
Memorable Meals—Okonomiyaki (a cabbage-and-egg pancake) at Tourianse; Mai-Thai's ethnic food; Korean food in the Tsuruhashi Korean Market area; Basilico for pizza; sushi or tempura at Sharaku or Kaiba; Ume No Hana for tofu specialties in Japanese-style decor.
Late Night—A walk around the Dotombori area; club hopping in America Mura; jazz sounds at Osaka Blue Note; a late-night beer at the Pig and Whistle Pub.
Walks—A stroll through Osaka Castle Park, especially in April for the cherry blossoms; a hike through Osaka Amenity Park and the Okawa River area to Nakanoshima Island; a walk along Midosuji Avenue; through the happening Kita-Horie neighborhood. Especially for Kids—Interactive exhibits at the Museum for Children at Kids Plaza; the whale shark at the Osaka Aquarium Kaiyukan; making noodles at the Instant Ramen Museum; the thrill rides at Universal Studios Japan; a train ride on the JR Loop; a ride on a Ferris wheel. Osaka (which translates as "big slope") is located on the western half of Japan's main island of Honshu. Despite its name, the city is flat, but low, rolling mountains surround the outer reaches and are visible from town. The Yodogawa River slices through the northern part of Osaka, splitting into smaller tributaries through the north central area of Yodoyabashi and near Osaka Castle. On the south side, the Yamatogawa River is a natural demarcation between Osaka and neighboring Sakai City.
Osaka has two principal commercial areas: Kita (literally "north"), otherwise known as Umeda, the area around Osaka JR Station; and Minami ("south"), comprising the Shinsaibashi shopping areas. Dotombori is the traditional nightlife center of the city, and Namba features major private railroad terminals and department stores. Linking the two main areas along a north-south axis is Osaka's main traffic artery, Midosuji Avenue. The entire length of the boulevard is lined with lovely gingko trees, with foliage that turns a brilliant gold in the fall. North of Umeda, this thoroughfare continues across the Yodogawa River and is known as Shin-Midosuji Avenue, extending past Shin-Osaka Station and up into the northern suburbs.
Much of the action in Osaka lies close to Midosuji Avenue. From north to south, the main centers of interest include Umeda; Kitanoshima island with its comfortingly stolid, retro architecture; and Yodoyabashi, Kitahama and Hommachi, the city's financial and business center. Shinsaibashi and Semba are the principal areas for shopping. Across Midosuji, a younger crowd is attracted to the gentrifying areas of Kita- and Minami-Horie and around Utsubo-koen Park. On either side of the Dotombori canal, the nightlife is often seedy. At the far south of Midosuji is Namba, an area of department stores and old-style markets that has seen some development. Other areas of interest in Osaka are Kyobashi and Osaka Castle, to the east of center; Tsuruhashi farther out to the east; and Tempozan and the ATC port area on the waterfront to the west. Tennoji is south of Minami. Sumiyoshi Taisha and Nagai Park are close to the southern edge of the city.
In English, the Japanese suffix ku translates as "ward." The main wards that you are likely to hear mentioned, either as part of an address or simply as an area of town, are Kita-ku (including Umeda, Kita-Shinchi and the Ritz-Carlton hotel), Chuo-ku (includes Namba, Shinsaibashi, Dotombori and Osaka Castle), Tennoji-ku (includes Tennoji, Abenobashi, the zoo and Tsutenkaku Tower), Sumiyoshi-ku (Sumiyoshi Taisha Jinja shrine) and Suminoe-ku (the port area, including the aquarium, Asian Trade Center, Cosmo Tower and the Nanko Natural Bird Sanctuary).
Note: As with most cities in Japan, many streets in Osaka don't have names. Major roads and expressways are named or numbered, however. The lack of street names is cause for much confusion for visitors, and the Japanese seem no less confounded. Street addresses are complicated, especially if you do not read Japanese, and translations may have different spellings. Therefore, virtually all locations contain directions with reference to nearby train (often JR, for Japan Rail, but not always) or subway stations. From the mid-seventh century, Naniwa, as Osaka was then known, served as the nation's capital. The historical ruins of Naniwa-no-Miya Palace are testimony to its rich and honorable place in history. In 1583, Osaka Castle was constructed, and Hideyoshi Toyotomi ruled the nation from this base. A town grew around the castle as merchants moved from nearby Sakai and Fushimi, developing a vibrant commercial district. Osaka soon transformed into both an economic and political center. After a period of decline following Toyotomi's death, the city boomed again during the Edo Period (1603-1867), and it was during this time that Osaka's performing arts were expanded and refined. Tekijuku, the study of Western science by Samurai eager to learn advanced European medicine, bolstered Osaka's reputation in the intellectual arena. Because of its busy port, the city continued to flourish even after the capital shifted to Nara and then to Kyoto in the 1700s.
In 1886, the Prefecture of Osaka was established, and three years later the city of Osaka became official. When Tokyo was designated as the nation's administrative and economic center around this time, only a budding textile industry saved Osaka from economic collapse. World War I brought a switch from textiles to chemicals and heavy-machinery manufacturing. Attacks in World War II left most of the city in ruins, and nearly all industrial production ceased. Renewal and rapid growth followed the war, and soon the city regained its economic footing.
The 1960s spawned major urban planning and development: Road and railway networks were constructed and other parts of the infrastructure were improved, all of which helped secure Osaka's status as a major Japanese city. In 1970, Osaka hosted the World Expo, and it has since regularly been the site of international happenings, from economic forums to sporting events. Museums, hotels, sporting arenas and service facilities have been constructed at an amazing rate, and the opening of the futuristic Kansai International Airport in 1994 provided a veritable bridge to the world. Now, more people enter Japan via Osaka than Tokyo. Tea ceremony, floral arrangement ( ikebana) and the performing arts of Bunraku, Kabuki and Noh all have their roots in Osaka.
Since the Edo period (1603-1867), Osaka has been known historically as the Land of Kitchens because the country's greatest selection of foods—from both the land and the sea—passed through its ports, markets and restaurants.
Osaka is situated at the crossroads of the Kansai region, making the city an ideal base from which to explore. Kyoto, the cultural heart of Japan, is just 30 minutes away by express train. Kobe, the lively and modern port city, is just 20 minutes away. And Nara, an ancient capital city and a calming green alternative to city life, is only 40 minutes to the east.
Osaka's Tsuruhashi district is home to Japan's largest Korean community. The small restaurant and shop-lined streets are the most "Asian" in town.
More than 4,000 cherry trees bloom each spring on the grounds of Osaka Castle.
Tokyoites walk to the left, and Osakans walk to the right. Osaka has long been known as a merchant city, and in the days of the kimono, wallets and purses were carried inside the right sleeve. In order to avoid pickpockets, locals walked to the right, close to walls and fences, making it difficult for nimble-fingered thieves. The habit, particularly noticeable on escalators, continues today.
Actor and producer Steven Segal is considered by many of the locals as an honorary Osakan. He spent a number of years there training in the martial art Aikido. He speaks the local dialect, Osaka-ben, perfectly.
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Editor's Choice of Luxury, Deluxe, and Value priced hotels in Osaka, Japan:
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