This place is an izakaya (a usually crowded, noisy, smoky restaurant) chain with a difference. It specializes in Japanese fare: lots of fish and hot-pot dishes, and lots of beer and sake. Kuimono Wan stands apart because its decor is stylish and cozy yet still retains that all-important izakaya ambience. There's another location now in the heart of Shinsaibashi. Daily for dinner. Reservations required. $$-$$$. Most major credit cards. Minami Parking Building, Second Floor, 1-4-31 Shinsaibashi-suji, Chuo-ku, Osaka. Phone 6281-0188.