
Enjoying a dramatic location below ancient Les Baux village—a surreal moonscape of a place—it is 100 m off the B78, 17 km northeast of Arles and 32 km south of Avignon.
This place is renowned more for its restaurant, Baumaniere, and its splendid wine cellar (with unbelievable Rhones), than for its lodging. Indeed, rates seem high, especially compared with those at La Cabro d'Or.
Now under the aegis of the founder's grandson, this 16th-century farmhouse offers limited public space in rich, antique Provencal style with arched stone ceilings, carved paneling, Persian rugs on tile floors, and chairs upholstered in brocade.
A small shop is in the lobby. Dubbed a theatre for the senses, the blend of whimsical modernity and charming country style makes this a lodging to remember.
The opulent medieval aura
continues in the superb restaurant. The food maintains the towering standards that Thuillier established decades ago, even as Charial, his grandson, produces phenomenal creations of his own.
In summer, meals are served on a delightful, scenic terrace in gardens with mature shade trees. In winter, the restaurant closes a couple days a week. The entrees are as pretty as the Provencal china on which they are served. An impressive wine list adds to the panache.
A square pool set in a deck is shaded with orange umbrellas. Roofs and walls are rimmed by a rocky cliff, and whimsical statues of cherubs frolic on the lawn. There is no bar, but drink service is available.
Little shields the terrace from the fuming and belching cars and buses struggling up the road next to it. Active guests enjoy riding, tennis and swimming on the grounds, with golf five minutes away. A second pool, fitness center, whirlpool, and new spa with massage and
beauty treatments are adding more options to the already plentiful amenity roster.
Similar to the guest rooms at La Cabro d'Or, those here show a chic, contemporary profile that complements the Provencal architectural detail. No two rooms are alike, but all have air conditioning, large sitting areas, phones, flat-screen TVs, complimentary wireless high-speed Internet access, minibars, and two twin or queen beds.
Gorgeous bushed hardwood floors play host to trendy design furniture including low-backed chairs in colorful fabrics, olive-hued accents, and eccentric artwork. Plump pillows and full-length mirrors add to the convenience and comfort of staying here. Not all rooms display this impressive look, and some are more threadbare with white walls, simplistic chairs and fabrics, and stone floors.
The lavish marble baths supply robes and antique clawfoot tubs. Two annexes supplement the six rooms and two suites in the main house.
La Guigou, 500 m away, is a rustic Provencal building with three suites and two rooms.
Le Manoir, about 800 m away and boasting the second pool and easy access to the spa, adds seven suites and seven rooms in a garden setting. Request Room 63 since it is the most unique; it has a tree growing in the middle of the room.
Former guests include Winston Churchill and Elizabeth Taylor. But, pets are also on the guest list for a modest surcharge. Gastronomes are the most likely to choose the Oustau over the less expensive Cabro d'Oro, which is friendlier for families.
Room service operates during daylight hours, and a more limited drink menu is on offer the rest of the time. This hotel is closed mid-January through mid-February. The food and the scenery are the draws here. Service is welcoming and helpful.