The small town of Playa del Carmen, Mexico, on the Yucatan coast is the geographic and cultural center of the Riviera Maya, one of Mexico's fastest-growing destinations. It is enjoyable for what it is, but perhaps more for what it's not.
It's not Cancun, the major resort area that's about an hour's drive north. For those who find Cancun too large and glossy and too lacking in local character, Playa del Carmen is the cure: cozy, funky and quite international, though still with a Mexican flair.
But the area is changing quickly and its future is uncertain: Large numbers of new luxury and all-inclusive hotels, boutiques and restaurants have opened in recent years, and the lovely Playa del Carmen beach is becoming sandwiched between large-scale developments that weren't part of the town's original vision. The Playacar complex just south of the Playa del Carmen town center now includes more than a dozen resorts, including the popular Playacar Palace, with further development continuing all along the Mayan Riviera.
These days, Playa del Carmen's main pedestrian walkways are often jammed with tourists and aggressive salespeople trying to lure them into stores and restaurants. Lovers of the relaxed vibe shouldn't give up on Playa just yet, however.
Despite the town's growing popularity, the pace remains delightfully slow much of the time. And the core of this pleasant town is still decidedly homegrown: During the day, the central plaza is full of local youngsters playing games, and in the evenings it takes on a festive air, as seemingly everyone in town gathers for a stroll.
