Sights—Spiritual reverence at La Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe; sun worship at Playa de los Muertos; a Liz-and-Dick pilgrimage to Casa Kimberly; a day trip to Mismaloya or Yelapa; whale-watching tours December-March in Banderas Bay; educational turtle-camp tours in which hatchlings of the endangered species are released.

Memorable Meals—Barcelona Tapas for the magnificent view and the best tapas in town; The River Cafe for superb service, excellent lamb and a romantic setting; Trio for its seasonal dishes and tasty desserts.

Late Night—J&B for the authentic salsa experience; De Santos for its hip lounge and dance scene; Christine for drinking, techno and rock music.

Walks—A seaside jaunt along the Malecon; a short hike into the hills of Gringo Gulch for excellent views of the city and bay; a leisurely riverside stroll on Isla del Rio Cuale; cocktails at sunset in the lighthouse of Marina Vallarta.

Especially for Kids—A glass-bottomed-boat trip to see tropical fish; exploring the Islas Marietas (Marieta Islands) to view other wildlife; visiting the movie set of Predator at El Eden (even if children are too young to remember the movie, the rope swings and tropical jungle river attract many families); a day trip to Las Caletas on the pirate ship Marigalante.

Puerto Vallarta lies at the coastal center of Banderas Bay, an immense semicircular inlet on Mexico's Pacific coast. The oldest part of the city is the Centro (also referred to as Viejo Vallarta, Old Town or downtown). The Malecon, a bustling promenade, runs along the waterfront there. Near the start of the Malecon is Plaza Principal, and one block east of that is the city's main church. West of the church and several blocks inland, in the hills, is the neighborhood known as Gringo Gulch.

At the southern end of the Centro is Rio Cuale. Isla del Rio Cuale is a thin island in the middle of the river. South of the river is another old neighborhood called South Side (or sometimes La Zona Romantica). That's where you'll find the most popular downtown beaches—Playa Olas Altas and Playa de los Muertos. Just south of Playa de los Muertos is the hillside neighborhood of Conchas Chinas.

Developments and villages dot the bay's coastline. Heading north of downtown takes you to the oceanfront Zona Hotelera (hotel strip), Marina Vallarta (the cruise-ship and yacht harbor, as well as a hotel and shopping district), the airport and the main bus station. Continuing north, you'll find Nuevo Vallarta, Bucerias and, at the northern tip of the bay, Punta de Mita. South of Puerto Vallarta are several beach areas, including Mismaloya and Boca de Tomatlan. Farther down the coast, and reachable only by boat, are Las Animas, Quimixto and Yelapa.

The area around Puerto Vallarta was originally inhabited by Tarascans, Chapalas, Huichol and members of the Aztec confederation of tribes. The first European to visit Puerto Vallarta was Francisco Hernandez de San Buenaventura, a nephew of conqueror Hernan Cortes. As the story goes—we suspect it has been embellished over the years—the Spanish explorer and his party were met on the shore by 20,000 Indians, each carrying a flag made of bird feathers. In turn, the Spanish produced four banderas (banners), including one that depicted the Immaculate Conception. This display supposedly subdued the natives, who laid aside their feather flags while a Spanish priest prayed for their souls. Banderas Bay takes its name from the event.

The flag incident was said to have occurred in 1525, but the bay wasn't developed until the 1850s, when the Sanchez family used it as a port for the silver mines along the Rio Cuale. The town was called Las Penas then, and for a long time, fewer than 2,000 people—mostly farmers and fisherfolk—lived there. In 1888, half the town was destroyed by fire. According to legend, the damage would have been less if most of the male population were not attending a cockfight. In 1918, Las Penas was renamed to honor Ignacio Luis Vallarta, governor of the state of Jalisco. Only a few U.S. residents ventured to PV until the 1950s, when airplanes first began landing on a dirt airstrip outside of town. By the 1960s, it was a hideaway for movie stars and other reclusive types, but it remained charming and serene. What really ignited interest in the city was Hollywood. In 1963, director John Huston chose Puerto Vallarta as the location for his film adaptation of Tennessee Williams' The Night of the Iguana, which starred Richard Burton, Deborah Kerr and Ava Gardner. Elizabeth Taylor wasn't in the movie, but she accompanied Burton, with whom she was romantically involved. Much of the filming was done in the deserted cove of Mismaloya. The affair between Taylor and Burton attracted the international press and gave Vallarta its reputation as a steamy romantic escape, and soon large numbers of travelers went to experience it for themselves. In 1968, a road was built from Tepic, about 105 mi/169 km northeast of Vallarta, to connect Puerto Vallarta by road to the rest of the world.

Breaching humpback whales are a common sight along Banderas Bay in the winter. Tour outfits also provide hydrophones to hear the "singing" among the whales. Banderas is the largest natural bay in Mexico and the second largest in the Americas.

Puerto Vallarta is a popular wedding destination. In addition to the scenic port-side spots, couples can get married in fabulous villas on the coast, on a gorgeous yacht or sailboat, on horseback or in the jungle, but most commonly on the beach.

For at least a week preceding and including 12 December (the day commemorating Mexico's patron saint, the Virgin of Guadalupe), Puerto Vallarta is home to nightly processions of mariachis, charros (Mexican cowboys), fisherfolk and local business owners. Local residents create sand sculptures and murals on the beaches downtown in honor of the Virgin.

Legend has it that disputes among the five stars of The Night of the Iguana were so intense that director John Huston—after filming wrapped—gave each a golden Colt .45 with exactly five bullets. (Note: We were unable to confirm the veracity of this legend, or whether any of the bullets were used.)

Huichol Indians in traditional dress making their famous beaded handicrafts are at work in shops downtown. Between themselves, they go by the name Wixarika, and are the largest group of indigenous peoples in Mexico who maintain their ancient traditions.

Richard Burton started a fad in Puerto Vallarta in the 1970s with a Nehru-style shirt custom-made for him by a local tailor.