The capital and second-largest city in Ecuador, Quito sits high in the Andes with an elevation of 9,300 ft/2,835 m. Because of its elevation, Quito has a pleasant, moderate climate despite being just south of the equator.
The first thing you will notice about Quito is the mountains that surround the city, including the active volcano Mount Pichincha to the west of the city—its last eruption was in 1999.
The next thing you will notice is the air pollution, which is held in place by those mountains (Quito occupies a long, narrow valley). The smog is largely created by the hundreds of exhaust-spewing buses—local and intercity—that pass through the city. Quito is Ecuador's principal transportation hub, and although efforts are being made to improve air quality, it remains bad.
If you just dive into the haze, however, you'll find sights that make it all worthwhile.
Sightseeing
Quito has many sights worthy of visiting. Start in the Old Town, where you'll find numerous churches and museums.
Because the city is undergoing a revitalization, be aware that some of the museums and churches of Old Town are being renovated and may be closed when you visit or may have reduced hours. If you find that a church is officially closed, try to stop back at a later time: Sometimes the doors are opened for a short time, and you may get a chance to walk around inside.
If you plan to visit El Panecillo, the hill directly south of Old Town that's crowned by the large Virgin of Quito statue, then take a taxi, as the streets at the base of the hill are unsafe. And when you're there, there's a bar/restaurant called Pimm's, up by the Panecillo and Virgen de Quito monument that is ideal for a break.
One of the city's newest attractions is the Parque Itchimbia, on the hill to the east of the Old Town, where one of Quito's old wrought-iron market structures was taken and restored to its former splendor. Temporary shows are held within the structure, and there's also a restaurant, which is a fabulous spot to watch the sun set and the city's lights come on below.
Another great new attraction is the Teleferico, the cable car that climbs up to the flanks of the Pichincha volcano to the west of the Old Town.
Outside of Old Town, Quito is modern and does not possess the beauty of the colonial section. In places, it seems like a study in the many unattractive things that can be done with concrete.
What's usually referred to as "New Town," or the Mariscal Sucre, is where most visitors stay. It's home to a large selection of hotels, restaurants, money-exchange houses and upscale souvenir shops.
Historic Sites
As impressive as the exteriors of the buildings in Old Town are, the interiors of the buildings can be even more breathtaking, especially the churches. They gleam with gold—not paint but real gold leaf, and lots of it. Most of the standouts are located within a few blocks of one another.
The Monastery of San Francisco is Quito's oldest church—construction began shortly after the city was founded in 1534. It's still the busiest, holding several masses a day, and we found the most interesting way to see the church is to quietly enter when a service is taking place. The other option is to pay the entrance fee to see the Museum of San Francisco, where you'll be escorted past a lot of gory religious art before you're admitted to the elevated choir at the rear of the church. On the Plaza San Francisco, you'll find a good souvenir store as well as the Tianguez coffee shop, which is a good place to take a break.
Just across the plaza and down the street is the Church of La Compania de Jesus, which has an intricately carved facade and one of the most ornate interiors in the Americas.
From La Compania, turn down Calle Garcia Moreno and you'll pass El Sagrario (dating from the mid-1600s) and, next door, the Cathedral Metropolitana (where independence hero Antonio Jose de Sucre is buried).
Other prominent churches are Santo Domingo (dating from 1581, it features a decorative Moorish ceiling and a statue of the Virgin Mary given to the church by Charles V of Spain) and the Monastery of San Agustin (dating from the 1600s).
Museums
Several museums are located in the Old Town, including the Museo de Arte Colonial, which features endless depictions of the bleeding Jesus and some amazingly intricate wooden desks.
The Museo Municipal Albert Mena Caamano (with colonial and modern art) is another good choice. We especially liked Casa Sucre, the beautifully restored home of Antonio Jose de Sucre, who helped liberate Ecuador from Spanish rule. The displays of maps and weapons are interesting, but it's the house and its period furnishings that are the real attractions.
A similarly restored old house is the Casa Maria Urrutia.
Be sure to spend time on cobblestoned La Ronda Street, the oldest in town, and then take in Quito's most modern museum, the Museo de la Ciudad, located inside a renovated old mansion and showcasing the city's social history.
In New Town, you'll find the Casa de la Cultura, a must-see attraction: It contains the Banco Central archaeological museum, an attached art museum, a vast musical-instrument museum, an indigenous-clothing museum and a modern-art museum.
If you have time for just one, make it the archaeological museum—there you'll see an amazing display of works produced by Inca goldsmiths, as well as lots of ancient pottery and detailed dioramas of life in Ecuador's pre-Columbian civilizations.
Neighborhoods & Districts
Quito's Old Town is a wonder—blocks of colonial architecture, some of it dating from the mid-1500s when the Spanish founded the city. (Before the Spanish arrived, Quito was an important Inca settlement, and before the Inca, other tribes lived at the site.)
Vintage facades line the streets in Old Town, and large open plazas are surrounded by cathedrals and stately public buildings. It has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its beauty.
On Sunday, the Old Town is closed to traffic, making it a good day for strolling and visiting churches (go early), but not necessarily for sightseeing, as most museums are closed.
What we really enjoyed about the Old Town is that it's a busy, workaday place rather than a sterile historical park. It's full of shops and vendors, and most cater to Quito residents more than to tourists. Many of the people you'll see in Quito are Ecuadorean out-of-towners, so, even if you don't travel the country much during your trip, you'll still get a feel for the country's cultural variety.
Over the past few years, Old Town has been transformed by various urban renewal projects. It's safer than it ever was, but do keep your wits about you. At night, the most impressive and important buildings of the historic center are floodlit to stunning effect. With new restaurants and bars open, it's worth going back for a stroll at night even if you've visited in the day. Keep to lit streets with people, however.
Nightlife
Although Quito is not a late-night city, you can find plenty of nightlife in the Mariscal Sucre district. Note, however, that the Mariscal can be dangerous after dark—don't walk the streets alone. There are expatriate bars and nightclubs,
penas (clubs with traditional Andean music), some multilingual bookstores, cafes and galleries.
A colorful ballet folklorico show titled Jacchigua is presented twice a week (usually Wednesday and Friday evenings) at the Casa de la Cultura.
There are free live concerts on the renovated Plaza Foch in the Mariscal on Thursday evenings and lots of live-music venues.
Shopping
Numerous markets dot the area surrounding Quito—they're good places to buy Ecuadorean crafts. Some of the markets outside town require setting aside at least a full day, so plan accordingly.
The market opens Saturday in Otavalo and Riobamba, and Thursday morning in Saquisili, one of the best markets in Ecuador for local color.
Calendar
One of the best times to visit Quito is during its fiesta (the weeklong celebration culminating on 6 December), when the city is enlivened by parades, street dances and bullfights.
