Modern Russia is thrilling and invigorating—yet occasionally ominous. Travelers have thus far been spared from the occasional trouble (mainly corruption and crime—it's estimated that 15%-20% of the economy is steered by organized crime), but it's wise to stay aware of the risks and keep an eye on the news.
Flexible travelers who don't mind inconveniences will appreciate Russia as a fascinating vacation spot. From Siberia to Moscow to St. Petersburg, the huge country is full of contrasts. Because of ample natural resources such as gas and oil, some Russians are very wealthy—but many are quite poor.
Russia's middle class is on the rise, though, and many Russians dream of an easy lifestyle and material wealth. Such desires stem from movies (both foreign and Russian), television shows such as soap operas, and advertisements showing off luxury items. But many Russians can't afford even standard goods.
Capitalism has been a rocky road so far, and the situation is complicated by billboard politics, glamorous casinos, czar mania, restaurants cum gangster hangouts and stylish nightclubs. Like in the 1990s, many Russians tend to trust fate and fortune rather than law and order.
Travel infrastructure in Russia is improving in general—many hotels, travel services and restaurants are on par with those in western Europe. Quality varies, though, and some areas are still quite challenging, with baffling surcharges, changing rules and unexpected shortages.
Russia spans 11 time zones. Its land ranges from the highest mountains in Europe to some of the lowest spots in the world, and from Arctic tundra to seemingly endless plains. Russian territory contains plenty of water—the great Siberian rivers (Ob, Irtysh); the longest river in Europe, the Volga; and a number of lakes (including the largest freshwater lake in the world, Baikal). Russia also has access to three oceans—Arctic, Atlantic and Pacific. Thousands of square miles/kilometers of untouched tundra and taiga are full of rare plants and animals. Almost two-fifths of the country's territory, however, is covered by permafrost, which makes both habitation and agriculture rather difficult.
The first recognizably Russian state, which began in Kiev (now Ukraine) in the 10th century, prospered until Tartar invaders subjugated most of the Slavic lands. The legacy left by the Tartars was unfortunate, at best: an enduring mistrust of foreigners and a tradition of harsh government. After the Tartar overlords were overthrown, the center of Russian expansionism moved to Moscow.
The Russian empire, founded in the mid-1500s by Ivan IV (widely known as "Ivan the Terrible" in the West) and modernized by Peter the Great in the early 1700s, lasted until the 1917 communist coup led by Lenin (born Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov) and Leon Trotsky. The communists then began more than 70 years of total domination of all aspects of society in the Soviet Union's 15 republics. Lenin's death in 1924 opened the door for Joseph Stalin's rise to power. That regime was notorious for mass executions and exiles, resulting in millions of deaths. In 1941, Hitler invaded Russia, and the country suffered massive casualties during World War II, especially during the sieges of Stalingrad in 1942-43 and Leningrad (now St. Petersburg) in 1941-44. The Cold War that followed led to the country's rapid industrialization, but corruption was commonplace and the economy stagnated.
In 1987, Mikhail Gorbachev began a series of reforms collectively known as glasnost (openness) and perestroika (restructuring). The political democratization and economic reconstruction of the Soviet Union eventually led to the system's undoing. An attempted coup by hard-liners in August 1991 hastened the end. Fifteen independent countries arose from the ashes of the U.S.S.R. The trend toward further decentralization is represented in the extreme by the bitter battle for independence in the state of Chechnya.
Russia, under the leadership of Boris Yeltsin, moved in stops and starts toward democracy and a market economy. But Yeltsin's health problems and unpredictable behavior (he fired his government several times), combined with unbridled corruption and a discontented population, created an atmosphere of extreme uncertainty. Yeltsin resigned in 1999 after eight years in power. Prime Minister Vladimir Putin took over and was formally elected president in May 2000. His administration is noted for trying to modernize the country's military, legal institutions and schools, but also for cracking down on the media and on provincial governors.
Russia's main attractions include art, magnificent (and newly restored) cathedrals and monasteries, treasures and palaces of the czars, the performing arts, health spas, river cruises, historic sites, spectacular scenery, Siberia and Moscow's Kremlin.
Russia will appeal to travelers who have a sense of adventure and an open mind. Don't expect a relaxing vacation, and, unless you're in Moscow or St. Petersburg, don't expect deluxe accommodations—a trip through Russia requires determination, flexibility and plenty of patience.
The Hermitage in St. Petersburg has more than 1,000 rooms—to see them all, you would have to walk approximately 12 mi/20 km within the museum. Some of its paintings were confiscated from private German collections at the end of World War II and secretly stored within the museum for years. Degas'
Place de la Concorde is a famous example.
There's a group of Russians that engages in a practice that goes beyond mere fortitude. It's called walrusing, and it involves swimming in water so cold you have to push aside the ice chunks to dive in.
A popular vacation spot for wealthy Russians is Zelyonaya (Green Grove), the Black Sea holiday home of Josef Stalin. Each night, one lucky guest can sleep in the former Soviet dictator's dacha (summer house).
The population in every region of the country has begun to decline, and the life expectancy of Russians is the lowest of any developed country in the world. Various causes are suspected for the decline: poor standards of living, pollution, alcohol abuse, the health-care crisis and increasing infertility.
Decades of neglect and indifference have left Russia with a staggering amount of environmental damage. Lake Karachai, located in the Urals, holds the title for the most contaminated spot on the Earth's surface.
You'll see many more old women than old men in Russia. The turbulent events of the 20th century, World War II in particular, killed millions of Soviet citizens, many of them men.
It is said that Russia produces more books than the rest of the world combined and that the average Russian reads three times as many books per year as the average U.S. citizen.
Museums and other attractions often have two fee scales: one for Russians and another, more expensive, for foreigners. Also be aware that ticket offices at museums usually close one hour before the museum—so be there at least an hour before closing time or you won't be admitted.
Vodka may be the national drink of Russia, but tea (chai) is close as the second beverage of choice. From homes to offices a tea break includes a small amount of tea extract (zavarka) poured from a small pot into the cup, topped off with boiling water from a kettle (or if on a formal occasion, from a samovar). Russians traditionally drink hot tea with sugar or honey. Some people add a slice of lemon or a spoonful of jam.