Until 1879, the subtropical islands that constitute Japan's southernmost prefecture were a separate (though vassal) kingdom, and the culture shows close affinities with China and Southeast Asia. During the closing days of World War II, the Ryukyu Islands were the site of some of the most hard-fought battles, and many war memorials are in evidence. Okinawa remained occupied until 1972, and large tracts of the main island are still host to U.S. military installations.
Naha, on Okinawa's main island, is the prefectural capital. It has a large market, selling seafood, vegetables and local artifacts. Other tourist sites include the rebuilt Shuri Castle (once home to the Ryukyu ruling family) and its ancient gate, the Shurei-no-Mon. However, for most visitors, the main reason for visiting the islands is to enjoy the beaches and assorted watersports, including diving.
The more remote islands of Ishigaki, Miyako, Taketomi and Iriomote can be visited by boat (or plane) from Okinawa, with Ishigaki serving as the best base for exploring the area. We liked Ishigaki and Iriomote, but found Miyako to be a little too touristy.
Those interested in World War II history should go to Tomigusuku on Okinawa, where the Imperial Navy had its underground headquarters and where 4,000 officers and men committed suicide rather than surrender to U.S. forces. Plan three nights to see these islands. Okinawa lies 960 mi/1,545 km southwest of Tokyo.
