A cultural oddity in a country usually associated with Columbus and Spanish domination, the town of Samana was founded by English-speaking U.S. slaves in the 1820s. This came about through the efforts of U.S. abolitionists and a Haitian general who worked to relocate thousands of slaves who had escaped Southern plantations via the Underground Railroad. Descendants of the original settlers—called Americanos—still live around the town, which is on the south coast of the Samana Peninsula. Some residents speak English as their first language. They continue to have a noticeable impact on the area's food, churches and architecture.
Samana was developed relatively recently as a tourist destination—the first road to the town was built only a few decades ago. Access is still difficult by road, but a new highway connecting Samana to Santo Domingo is finally nearing completion. With its low-key atmosphere and many budget-type accommodations, Samana is a popular spot with Europeans and those interested in viewing whales. Humpback whales inhabit Samana Bay December-early March before heading north for the summer, and the bay is a protected wildlife refuge. The World Wildlife Fund has named Samana Bay as one of the best spots in the world for whale-watching. It lives up to the title, as the views are second to none. Boat excursions let you get a look at the huge mammals: Whale Samana (phone 809-539-2494; http://www.whalesamana.com) is the most respected operator.
On the north side of the peninsula is Las Terrenas, perhaps the Dominican Republic's most pleasant resort village. Its idyllic palm-fringed beaches are lined with some of the most pleasing boutique hotels in the country, and the mood remains laid-back, despite burgeoning development and the arrival of the first all-inclusive hotels (thankfully outside town on nearby Playa Coson). The drive over the mountains to reach Las Terrenas is one of the most breathtaking in the country. Be sure to stop at the Salto de Limon waterfalls en route—horseback treks are offered from the village of Limon.
An even more laid-back spot on the Samana Peninsula is the seaside town of Las Galeras, 16 mi/25 km east of Samana town. Las Galeras has several small hotels and an all-inclusive resort. Also nearby is Playa Rincon, a secluded beach that can best be reached by four-wheel-drive vehicle.
Los Haitises National Park, on the south side of Samana Bay, is known for its mangrove and swamp areas, and caves with pre-Columbian Amerindian rock paintings. The park has varied plant life and fabulous birdlife (including frigatebird and boobie rookeries), but is best known for its spectacular karst formations rising sheer from the bay. Guided tours of the park leave from Samana, Sanchez and Sabana de la Mar. Samana is 65 mi/105 km northeast of Santo Domingo.
