The Galapagos' provincial capital,
Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, is located on this easternmost island in the chain. Most visitors pass through the town of about 5,000 people on their way between the airport and the harbor, where they begin and/or end their tour. Though rather dusty and forlorn, it has a few gift shops and cafes along the waterfront, and some newer facilities for visitors.
The islands' only natural-history museum, which was financed by Spain, overlooks the harbor. Though small, it contains artifacts relating to the island's past—it once had a sugar plantation whose abusive owner was murdered by one of his workers. Murals and stuffed versions of animals native to the islands also recount the geological history of the Galapagos Islands.
San Cristobal is the second most populated island, but it is hardly crowded: Most of the land is within the national park. A bus ride through highland farms to El Junco, the only freshwater lake in the islands, is recommended. Ship tours also stop at spectacular Kicker Rock, or Leon Dormido, the jagged remains of an old tuff cone whose flanks are covered with sea birds. Right in front of the famous Kicker Rock, there is a visitor site with perhaps the most beautiful white-coralline beach of the entire archipelago. This site, called Cerro Brujo, offers the chance to spot a couple of island-endemic species such as the San Cristobal lava lizard and the Chatham Mockingbird. Another popular stop off the western side of the island is Isla Lobo, where you can snorkel and view sea lions and blue-footed boobies. On the eastern side of the island is Punta Pitt, where red-footed, blue-footed and masked boobies make their home. If you hike about two hours down the shore from Punta Pitt, you can see wild tortoises at La Galapaguera.
