Business travelers should know that Russian business etiquette is broadly similar to European and Western practice, with one important exception: vodka. Though the younger generation of businesspeople has largely dropped heavy drinking as a way to seal a deal, it's still considered essential by many Russians to get ripping drunk with new business partners to cement business relationships.
If you are invited to someone's home, it is appropriate to take flowers (always an odd number—an even one signifies bad luck) or a bottle of wine. Russians prefer to meet people at home rather than go out. Take off your shoes and overcoat once you are inside.
In extreme cases, your new friends may invite you to a banya (sauna), where you're expected to strip naked and sweat in a steam room while being beaten with birch twigs. (Former President Yeltsin loved to do this with visiting heads of state.) A compulsory part of the banya experience is heavy drinking: It's considered rude not to drain your glass when drinking a toast.
Women may experience apparently sexist or patronizing behavior on the part of male colleagues, such as comments about appearance. Attempted flattery is very much a part of Russian culture; political correctness isn't. Men will often open doors or offer to help women with packages, although this custom is changing. Shake hands often, and don't be surprised if you get heartily kissed on both cheeks (this applies to men as well as women). Men should avoid sitting with an ankle on a knee; it's considered rude and slovenly. It's customary at business meetings to offer tea, coffee and snacks. Don't be surprised if a coatroom attendant forces you to give up your overcoat at a restaurant or the theater: Wearing a coat or outerwear indoors is considered uncivilized.
English is understood and spoken in most hotels, upscale restaurants and business situations. Your hotel will be able to arrange interpreters and guides—a must if you do not speak Russian, since few people on the street speak English. Do not expect taxi drivers to speak English—except to ask your destination and what currency you'll be using to pay.
A lot of attention is paid to organized crime in Russia, but the greatest threat to leisure travelers in Moscow comes from crime of the petty variety—primarily pickpocketing and theft. Business travelers may face somewhat greater risks related to kidnapping and robbery and should consider special security arrangements.
As in most cities, pickpockets tend to work in crowded areas. Guard your wallet, handbag and camera at all times, and be especially vigilant in the subway, at train stations and at tourist attractions such as Red Square or the GUM department store. Robberies and assaults are less of a worry. The city center is very heavily policed, which deters muggers. Nonetheless, it's wise to take the same precautions you would in any large city: Avoid deserted areas, especially at night, and beware of strangers offering you food or drink—they may be attempting to drug you.
Avoid unofficial "gypsy" cabs if you do not speak Russian, and never get in a cab that already has a passenger—this might mean you're being set up for a mugging or, at the least, a scam designed to intimidate you into paying more than is customary.
Although it's not the problem it once was, Moscow still has its share of "gypsies." These children or adults (who may not be of Gypsy origin) may approach you, either begging or simply swarming around you. If this happens, hold tight to your wallet or keep your purse held close with intense single-mindedness—their aim is to distract you momentarily (perhaps by getting you to push them away). If you become distracted, your valuables will be gone in an instant. These gangs tend to operate around train stations, such as Kievsky, Kazansky and Yaroslavsky.
The police number is 02, and the Moscow Police Department has a round-the-clock English operator. (If you shout in English into the phone long enough, you will be put through.) Contact your embassy in case of a crime resulting in the theft of your passport. To reach the U.S. Embassy, phone 495-728-5000; to reach the Canadian embassy, phone 495-105-6000.
For the latest information, contact your country's travel-advisory agency.
Although Russia does not require any vaccinations to enter the country, consult your physician about updating your diphtheria, tetanus and tuberculosis vaccinations. Some doctors recommend protection against hepatitis as well. In general, Moscow health issues are largely from the same source as in other large cities—pollution. In winter, be prepared for colds and flu.
Sanitation levels vary. They are equal to Western standards in major hotels but are inferior in public restrooms and some restaurants. Avoid Moscow's tap water: Bottled water is readily available. The safest food sold on the streets is from Russkiye Bliny, a chain selling stuffed pancakes, and Kroshka Kartoshka, which sells stuffed baked potatoes. Ice cream, both Russian and imported, is sold year-round and is also safe. Avoid other street food, especially kebabs, and be careful with meat in cheaper restaurants and cafes.
Make sure you have good medical insurance, because health-care costs are astronomically high in Moscow. The Russian medical system is unreliable, and simply showing up at a Russian hospital does not necessarily result in your being admitted. You must speak Russian when dealing with the Russian medical system—those who don't should go to a Western-run clinic. Such facilities are very expensive and are not equipped for serious surgery or major emergencies.
In case of a medical emergency, contact your embassy, the American Medical Center (phone 495-933-7700) or the European Medical Center located at Spiridonievskiy (phone 495-933-6655).
For the latest information, contact your country's health-advisory agency.
Moscow is not an easy city for people with disabilites to navigate. There are almost no provisions for disabled access, but the situation is gradually improving.
Don't buy tickets from the scalpers who hover around the Kremlin. Their tickets are usually out of date or invalid.
Do be aware that museums and other attractions often have two fee scales, one for Russians and a more expensive one for foreigners. If you're charged the higher price, you aren't necessarily being cheated.
Don't be surprised by low standards of services in shops and restaurants. Employees are frequently brusque to the point of being impolite.
Do learn a few words in Russian: zdravstvuite is a formal greeting, spasibo means "thank you," pozhaluista means "please" and do svidaniya is "good-bye." If you are lost and want to ask for help, say, "Ya poteryalsa pomogite mne pozhaluista."
Don't expect smoke-free restaurants. As Moscow becomes more westernized, many newer establishments are setting aside areas for nonsmokers, but the Russians frequently ignore such distinctions.
Do try to learn the Cyrillic alphabet before visiting. It's not as hard as it looks, and it's helpful if you plan to travel independently.
Don't speak loudly in public places—it's considered rude.
Don't leave your luggage or money unattended while traveling by train or at any other time. This is just good travel practice.
Do be careful when photographing governmental buildings or private houses. If a guard approaches you and asks you to leave or stop, it's best to do so. Don't take photos in the metro (subway) or train stations without an official permit—it's prohibited. No tripods are allowed in Red Square, which makes nighttime photos a challenge. There is no ruling covering this—it may be just something local police have found they can collect a fine for from people who don't want their cameras confiscated.
Do give up your seat on a bus or the metro to an elderly or handicapped person or if there's a woman standing while holding a baby.
