DePalm Tours (phone 582-4400; http://www.depalm.com) offers 90-minute glass-bottomed-boat rides for US$32.50. It also supplies Aruba's latest boating thrills via Screamer, a wild, hour-long jet-boat ride that weaves into the waves (US$44).

Aruba's diving may not be as famous as nearby Bonaire's, but it's still good. Most shops schedule their dive excursions in the morning, before the wind picks up too much. Established operators include Pelican Watersports, offering one-tank boat dives for US$47.50, and night dives for US$55. Red Sail Sports also takes divers out. Most dive operators also offer introductory courses, which provide basic instruction and a shallow dive with an instructor. If you're not taking one of the introductory courses, you must be a certified diver and present your C card to rent equipment and go diving.

Popular destinations are two shallow-water shipwrecks: the Pedernales, a German World War II oil tanker mistakenly torpedoed by the German navy, and the Antilla, a German sub-supply ship great for night dives. It was scuttled near Malmok, on the northwestern end of the island, when the Germans invaded Holland, so it wouldn't fall into Dutch hands. Experienced divers enjoy the California wreck, the Jane Sea wreck and Mangel Halto Reef, which has beautiful black coral as well as giant barrel sponges.

If the tank and breathing apparatus idea bothers you, try Sea Trek, offered by DePalm Tours, exclusively on DePalm Island. A large helmet fits over your head, and a window allows you to explore the depths as you walk on the sea floor right in the midst of marine life. US$55 per person. Phone 582-4400. http://www.depalm.com.

Diving in Aruba is generally very safe, but in the event of a diving emergency, the Diver's Alert Network (DAN) will provide treatment advice and, if necessary, arrange for evacuation. Phone 919-684-8111 to connect to DAN's headquarters in the U.S. DAN also answers health-related questions about diving. For more information, phone toll-free 877-595-0625. http://www.dan.org.

Landlubbers who want to experience the joys of scuba diving without getting wet can take a two-hour trip on the submarine Atlantis VI down to Barcadera Reef for US$84. Contact Atlantis Adventures (phone 588-6881; http://www.atlantisadventures.com). Call Red Sail Sports (phone 586-1603) or DePalm Tours (phone 582-4400) for reservations. DePalm also offers guided kayaking adventures with lunch and snorkeling for US$77.

Kite boarding (or kitesurfing) has literally taken off in Aruba. Watch the locals practice their radical moves at Boca Grandi Beach, down on the southern end of the island where the surf is high, or up north at Arashi Beach near the lighthouse, where the winds play havoc with sea and air maneuvers. If you want to join the fun, a two-and-a-half-hour rental will cost you US$100 at Aruba Active, or book a five-lesson plan for US$450.

Yet another way to take advantage of Aruba's famous breezes is to try your hand at landsailing, similar to windsurfing, but on land (specifically on a salt flat near Fisherman's Hut). Aruba Active offers landsailing rentals for US$60 for an hour and a half.

The Blue Parrotfish Water Park, part of the DePalm Island entertainment complex, features a variety of waterslides as well as kiddie areas with tunnels, water guns and other water features. The water park is included with all the other DePalm Island offerings, including snorkeling and all-inclusive food, drinks and alcoholic beverages. US$89 adults full-day, US$74 half-day (children half price). Phone 582-4400 or 585-4799; http://www.depalm.com/depalmisl/index.cfm.

The island's casinos, all of which are in major hotels (a hotel must have a minimum of 300 rooms in order to open a casino), offer live bands, shows or discos, as well as gambling. Be sure to check the hours of the casino you're interested in beforehand—some are open 24 hours. A few stagger their opening times, depending on the game—for instance, they may open at 11 am for slots only, add blackjack and roulette at 1 pm, then open all games at 9 pm.

Even if you're not an avid gambler, it's fun to casino hop. We like to start at the Alhambra Casino, where a huge, fierce-looking Turk in a fez still guards the door, and work our way north until we find some luck. If you haven't been to Alhambra lately, it's changed a bit. No more pinball, but lots more slots, and lounges have been reduced and moved to the sides; and there's a Subway restaurant, serving low-carbohydrate sandwiches. Phone 583-5000. http://www.alhambracasino.com

You'll find some nice clubs in Oranjestad itself. There's plenty of imported rock 'n' roll, reggae and rap pumping through the speakers, but you'll also hear merengue in Aruba. Of the many clubs, we like Cafe Bahia (phone 588-9982), Mambo Jambo (phone 583-3632) and Carlos & Charlie's (phone 582-0355; http://www.carlosncharliesaruba.com), all clustered near Royal Plaza in Oranjestad. The Lounge at the Crystal Casino serves the sophisticated crowd into the wee hours (at the Renaissance Aruba, phone 583-6000).

Some hotels also have nightclub shows offering anything from steel bands to Las Vegas-style and Latin extravaganzas (and, as is true elsewhere in the Caribbean, you'll find no shortage of Carnival limbo and fire-dance shows). Be sure to reserve a table early in the day, especially in season—the better ones often sell out.

If you get tired of the casinos, there's a drive-in movie theater in Santa Cruz near the airport on the way to San Nicolas (phone 583-0318 or 585-8355; http://www.thecinemas.aw), or visit the Eagle Bowling Palace, open daily 10 am-2 am (phone 583-5038).

For those who like to be on the move, reserve a spot with Aruba Adventures (phone 586-2010; http://www.arubaadventures.com) on one of their all-you-can-drink movable parties. Choose from the Tattoo, which lights up the waters at night (US$30 per person); sail on Mi Dushi, where you can take a dip from a rope swing on the mast (US$59 adults, US$20 children ages 14 and younger); or barhop on the wildly painted Kukoo Kunuku bus with a built-in designated driver (US$59 per person).

The Black Hog Bash, at the saloon of the same name, happens seven nights a week with an all-you-can-eat barbecue, bar-stool racing, a Harley show like you've never seen, and free beer if you don't count your US$39.95 admission. Phone 587-6625 for reservations. http://www.blackhogsaloon.com.

Garufa, a well-appointed cigar club complete with humidor, is a little more civilized. Located at Wilhelminastraat 63, across from El Gaucho, it serves up cool jazz on Mondays, and appetizers and dessert every day. Open Monday-Thursday 6 pm-1 am, Friday and Saturday 6 pm-2 am. Closed Sunday. Phone 582-3677. http://www.garufa-aruba.com.

Try the stores along Caya G.F. Betico Croes (formerly Nassaustraat), the Renaissance Mall (formerly Seaport Village Mall, phone 523-6065; http://www.shoparubarenaissance.com) and the Renaissance Seaport Market Place on the waterfront. All three shopping areas are near the town square. Right across from the cruise dock entrance is the mammoth Royal Plaza Mall.

Aruba does have some locally made handicrafts available, but there is no craft market where they are concentrated. Look in the art gallery and museum gift shops (Access Art Gallery, Betico Croes 16-18. Phone 588-7837), or visit the beach vendors for souvenirs.

The Beaches, the Museums and a Dinner Show

The very first thing you should do in the morning is plan your evening: Otherwise, your first choice for entertainment may be sold out. Find out what shows are playing in the hotels that night and make reservations early. Consider booking a dinner show; by combining your meal and entertainment, you'll have time to enjoy other island offerings that night.

Then grab your swimsuit and take a bus to Palm Beach, which is in the midst of the resort area, north of Oranjestad. (On your way, be sure to ask the driver when the buses make the return trip to town from the beach—usually it's every 15 minutes.)

After spending time in the surf, head back to Oranjestad for a late lunch at Don Carlo's (phone 583-6246), an open-air spot on the waterfront that serves lunch and dinner daily. Then stroll around town, stopping at Fort Zoutman. If you want to shop, try the stores on the town square or main streets for better prices than those at the waterfront malls.

If you're staying in town or at a Palm Beach high-rise, you may need to take a taxi to your night's entertainment—the public buses don't run after 6 pm. If you still have energy to burn after the show, go casino hopping. Just walk along the beachfront sidewalk that connects the Palm Beach hotels, and step into whichever one suits your fancy. At least seven or eight hotels in the immediate row have casinos.

PLAN B

Snorkeling/Windsurfing

We suggest renting a car or hiring a taxi for this itinerary—that way, you can enjoy your time rather than waste it waiting for public transportation. Start your day by snorkeling at Rodger's Beach in San Nicolas.

Then lunch at Charlie's Bar (phone 584-5086; http://www.charliesbararuba.com), where you can check out the memorabilia from San Nicolas' heyday as a refinery boomtown. The specialty is steamed shrimp and, if you like your seasoning hot, hot, hot, then buy a bottle of Charlie's "Honeymoon Sauce." Walk off those calories with a short stroll around the block to South End Art Gallery and browse among the works of local talent.

Your next destination is an area known as Fisherman's Hut, which is on the northern tip of the island—the exact opposite direction from San Nicolas. (It's beyond all the high-rise resorts.) The two beaches in Fisherman's Hut offer world-class windsurfing. After your last wave, head for the Okeanos Spa in town at Renaissance Aruba (phone 583-6000; http://marriott.com/property/propertypage/auabr) and get those kinks worked out. Other options include Body & Soul Spa at the Tierra del Sol Resort, Spa and Country Club (phone 586-4861; http://www.tierradelsol.com); the Hyatt's Stillwater Spa on Palm Beach (phone 586-1234; http://www.aruba.hyatt.com); or Spa at Tara in the Bucuti Beach Resort (phone 583-1100; http://www.bucuti.com).

PLAN C

Nature Tour

First thing, put on your most comfortable walking shoes. Then rent a car or hire a taxi, pick up some food for a picnic and head northeast from Oranjestad toward the hill known as Hooiberg (the Haystack). After you've soaked in the view from the top, continue east to Andicuri Beach.

After a swim, break out the picnic. Or, if you don't want to bother with packing one, lunch at Boca Prins, an open bar and restaurant by the sea in Arikok Park, right at your next stop.

Three nature stops will take up the rest of the afternoon: The first will be at Fontein Cave, where you can see several Caiquetio paintings. Then view the rock formations at Ayo and Casibari; it's amazing what a stiff wind can do to a rock. Your final destination will be the Bubali Bird Sanctuary, northwest of Oranjestad, on the other side of the island. You'll want to have binoculars and plenty of film.

This park near the center of the island contains the highest point in Aruba, Yamanota Hill (617 ft/188 m). The view of the resort area from the hill is magnificent. The rest of the park is fairly flat (with the exception of a few sand dunes), so you'll find the hiking trails relatively easy. Dress for the heat and take along sunscreen, a hat and comfortable walking shoes.

You'll want to see the restored cunucu house-made of mud, straw and cactus wood, and furnished as it was in bygone days. On a rise near the park entrance is a garden tended by Aruba's schoolchildren who are learning about agriculture. On the way out, you'll come to the Tunnel of Love, a 300-ft-/93-m-long cave with a heart-shaped entrance. It can be very low and narrow in places, so be careful in there.

Dirt roads are very rutted and difficult to maneuver in several areas. A Jeep or other four-wheel-drive vehicle is recommended.

Near the town of Bushiribana, on the northeast coast of the island, was Aruba's Natural Bridge, a much-touted attraction that collapsed in September 2005. Brochures glowingly described it as a natural wonder sculpted out of coral rock by centuries of raging wind and sea.

Near Bushiribana is an abandoned gold smelter dating back to the 1800s. We were impressed by the massive boulders stacked on top of one another, but not everyone will appreciate the site's bleak and desolate feel. There's really nothing to see in the town of Bushiribana itself.

About 5 mi/8 km north of Oranjestad in Noord is St. Anna Church, a neo-Gothic-inspired church that has high-vaulted ceilings and stained-glass windows. Its 120-year-old, hand-carved oak altar is a true work of art. Not far away is the little Chapel of Alto Vista. Although the chapel is relatively new (it was built in 1952), this was the site of the island's first Catholic church, built in 1750. We like the chapel's rather barren countryside setting overlooking the sea.

With its charming Dutch-Colonial architecture, Oranjestad is a wonderful place to explore on foot. In Wilhemina Park, on the waterfront next to Seaport Marketplace, is a statue of Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands. On her birthday (30 April), Arubans put flowers at its base.

Across the street is Fort Zoutman, a restored 17th-century fort on Zoutmanstraat. In 1869, the people of Aruba wanted to honor Wilhemina's father, William III, then king of the Netherlands, on his birthday. So they built the stone William III Tower at the fort. They topped it with a lighthouse instead of a candle. Unfortunately, William III had more pressing business at home and never did visit Aruba. If you're in Oranjestad on a Tuesday, try to attend the Bon Bini Festival in the courtyard of the Aruba Historical Museum (7-8:30 pm), which is located inside the fort. Bon bini means "welcome," and Arubans make visitors feel right at home with local music, dancing, food and crafts. Phone 582-6099.

While you're downtown, stop at the Aruba Numismatic Museum, also known as Mario's Worldwide Coin Collection. It's one man's coin collection, but it's impressive: 40,000 coins from more than 400 countries throughout history are on display. You can also buy specimen sets of Aruba's coins. It's near Fort Zoutman. US$5. Open Monday-Thursday 9 am-4 pm, Friday 9 am-1 pm, Saturday 9 am-noon. Phone 582-8831. http://www.museumaruba.org.

If you have extra time, check out the exhibits at the Cas di Cultura (Cultural Center)—they usually feature the work of local artists. Concerts often are performed at night, too, as are musicals and ballet. Ask about schedules at your hotel or phone 582-1010. http://www.casdicultura.com.

Outside Oranjestad are a few other attractions worth visiting. For a panoramic view of the island, we suggest climbing to the top of Hooiberg (the Haystack), located 6 mi/10 km east of Oranjestad. The climb up several hundred carved steps is strenuous but worth the effort. Although this isn't the highest point on the island, it has the best views. Make the climb early in the day, if possible.

Another good destination is the Butterfly Farm (about 4 mi/7 km from Oranjestad). Go early in the morning: That's when you'll find the 500 or so residents at their most active. Take a guided tour through lush gardens and around fish ponds. A guide regales you with butterfly anecdotes, mating habits, diet and identification. Delicate butterfly jewelry and other items are available in the gift shop. Open 9 am-4:30 pm (last tour at 4 pm). Admission US$12 adults, children ages 4-16 US$6. One admission assures a free pass to the farm for the remainder of your stay. Phone 586-3656. http://www.thebutterflyfarm.com.

One of the latest additions to Aruba's sights is the Aruba Ostrich Farm, near Bushiribana. The parent company is in Curacao, where ostriches are bred, but this farm is strictly for show and for supplying meat to the restaurants. A guided drive features stops at incubation pens and quarters for babies (who can walk shortly after birth) and older ostriches. There's an African-style store, and a bar and restaurant where you can try the ostrich meat in various forms. Open daily 9 am-4 pm. Admission US$10 adults, US$5 children ages 3-12 (phone 585-9630; http://www.arubaostrichfarm.com).

Get in touch with Aruban history at the Aloe Factory in Hato. Once a very important part of the island's economy, aloe grows very well in this dry climate. The factory estimates that its 1,600 acres/647 hectares produce about 2 million plants, concentrating on the aloe vera species (used for skin ailments and healing burns). The modern building houses a museum, which documents the history of aloe in Aruba, and an enclosed catwalk lets you look down on production in progress. The aloe-oriented gift shop sells the full line of products produced in the factory, including body lotions and hair-care items. Open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-5 pm. Tours are Monday-Friday 8:30 am-4 pm, Saturday 9 am-1 pm. Adults US$8, children US$4. Phone 588-3222. http://www.arubaaloe.com.

At Casibari, in the center of the island, and Ayo, down the road in an easterly direction, you'll find the most striking landforms on the island—giant diorite boulders that have been carved into eerie, dramatic shapes by the wind. Casibari has always been one of our favorite stops. Most visitors climb to the top of the highest rock (the one with steps and railings), take in the view and then leave. If you spend a little time wandering in, around and behind the surrounding formations, you'll appreciate the lined paths leading to secret gardens and flowering niches that have been blended into unusual crevices and ledges. It's raw nature, and seen by so few visitors. The usual refreshment stand exists, but it's at the entrance and doesn't intrude on your serenity, when you find your secret garden.

There are many caves on Aruba, but none are very long or deep. Guadirikiri, a large bat cave, is basically easy to maneuver except for a few slippery slopes. Fontein (in Arikok Park) is rather shallow, but a must-see for its impressive Caiquetio petroglyphs—the best of which are near the entrance. Both caves are northeast of Oranjestad.

This now-sleepy town was the heart of Aruba's economy for most of the 20th century, when oil was king. In the 1800s, the Aruba Phosphate Company provided high revenues for the island by exporting its product. The oil industry's need for labor brought foreigners from as many as 40 different countries to Aruba—and many remained and raised families. Also, older locals know where to find the bunkers used to guard against German attacks on the refinery during World War II. San Nicolas played an important role in supplying Allied ships.

Aruba's Grand Caribbean Carnival, an annual event that originated in San Nicolas in 1955, was supposedly brought there by the Trinidadians. Whatever the truth may be, the festivities include weeks of parades, music, floats and more. San Nicolas is also known for its caves (which some locals believe extend underwater to Venezuela) and excellent beaches for snorkeling and surfing.