Destination Guidebook for Barcelona, Spain
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Sooner or later, you must take a walk down Les Rambles, Barcelona's famous thoroughfare, so you may as well make it sooner. It's a great introduction to the city, and it will put you in good position to see other nearby attractions. If you head northeast from Les Rambles, you'll enter the twisting, ancient streets of the Barri Gotic (Gothic Quarter). Find your way to the cathedral as you explore the district. Nearby is the Museu d'Historia de la Ciutat (City History Museum). The Barri Gotic also holds several other treasures, so you may want to plan more than one day in the area. The highlights are the Museu Picasso and another church, Santa Maria del Mar. It's fun just to amble through the streets, however, especially in the evening, when you can sample many restaurants and bars in the Born district.
You'll need at least a day to take in the famous sights from the modernisme movement in architecture. Before you start, stop in at the Ruta del Modernisme center at the tourist office in Placa Catalunya (and other locations), where you can get maps, a guidebook and discount vouchers to the city's 115 modernisme monuments. The guidebook with vouchers costs 12 euros. A route pack, which includes an additional guide to modernisme bars and restaurants, costs 18 euros. For more information, visit http://www.rutadelmodernisme.com.
Begin at Mansana de la Discordia, on Passeig de Gracia in the Eixample district, where you can see three adjacent buildings built by the best-known architects of the movement. Next, head a few blocks north to La Pedrera, Antoni Gaudi's amazing apartment building, which now houses several museums. Plan at least two hours to see them and to walk around among the rooftop sculptures. From the roof, you'll be able to see the spires of Sagrada Familia in the distance, and that's your next stop. (You can walk there in a leisurely half-hour jaunt or catch the metro's Blue Line at the Diagonal Station near La Pedrera.) Close out the day at Gaudi's incredible church. Be sure to go up in the spires for a vertigo-inducing look at the church and the city. A visit to Gaudi's Parc Guell, on the northern side of the city, is also recommended, though you will probably have to fit it into another day.
Montjuic, the promontory rising southwest of the city center, merits a day of its own. Both the Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya and Fundacio Joan Miro are found on Montjuic, as are several lesser attractions, including Poble Espanyol (a theme attraction with shops and restaurants), the Olympic stadium and Pavello Barcelona. Just strolling around this green area is pleasant, and it offers some nice views of the city below. Figure your route ahead of time, however, as Montjuic covers a lot of territory and the attractions are widely spaced. | Historic Sites | Top  |
Designed by Domenech i Montaner, one of the most renowned architects of the modernisme movement, this unusual hospital complex was built between 1902 and 1930. Located on the site of the old Santa Creu Hospital, which dates back to 1401, the Hospital de Sant Pau is the largest single example of Catalan modernista architecture. Packed with sculptures and mosaics, it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997. However, it still functions as a hospital and only the courtyards and gardens are open to visitors. There are guided 50-minute visits in English daily at 10:15 am and 12:15 pm. 5 euros. Sant Antoni Maria Claret 167, Eixample, Barcelona. Phone 93-291-9484 for information regarding guided visits. http://www.santpau.es. The heart of the Old City, this Gothic monster (with the imposing and mostly unused formal name of Esglesia Catedral Basilica de Barcelona) was mostly built between 1298 and 1448 on the site that once held a Roman temple and later a mosque. The facade was not completed until the 1890s, and some feel that its neo-Gothic style is jarring, although it looks nice illuminated at night. Very spacious and soothing, the interior is notable for its volume, with three naves of almost equal width. The crypt of Barcelona's first patron saint, martyr Santa Eulalia, lies behind the altar. You can see some of the older furnishings in the church's Sala Capitular (Chapter House Museum). Above all, don't miss the open-air cloister with its gently splashing fountain and restful garden patrolled by white geese. You can also visit the rooftop terrace for a close-up look at the towers and views over the Gothic quarter. Cathedral open Monday-Saturday 8 am-12:45 pm and 5:15-7:30 pm, Sunday 8 am-1:45 pm and 5:15-8 pm. Cloister open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-12:30 pm and daily 5:15-7 pm. Chapter House Museum open daily 10 am-12:30 pm and 5:15-6:45 pm. The rooftop terrace is open Monday-Friday 9 am-12:30 pm and 5:15-7 pm, Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm. Cathedral admission is free at the above time. It is also open daily 1-5 pm, when the charge is 4 euros, which includes all areas. Admission to the choir is 1.50 euros. Admission to the museum is 1 euro. Admission to the roof is 2 euros. Placa de la Seu 3, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-315-1554. http://www.catedralbcn.org. Built between 1906 and 1910, this large apartment building is one of Antoni Gaudi's masterworks. Its official name is Casa Mila, but it's better known as La Pedrera (the Quarry), a reference to its stony exterior appearance, with balconies that look like caves. Though Sagrada Familia is the Gaudi building that draws the biggest crowds, we think La Pedrera gives a better sense of the architect's astounding designs. That is partly because of the excellent museums housed in La Pedrera. Espai Gaudi focuses on the architect's complete body of work, with lots of 3-D models and multimedia displays. Pis de la Pedrera is a full modernista apartment restored with period furnishings. Fundacion la Caixa stages temporary exhibitions inside, which are usually free of charge to visit. The topper is the roof of the building, where Gaudi's abstract sculptures glow and glitter in the sun (think of giant chess-set figures resembling Star Wars storm troopers). If you'd rather see them in the moonlight, the roof becomes a terrace bar on Friday and Saturday nights in the summer. The museums are open daily 10 am-8 pm (ticket sales end at 7:30 pm). There is one guided tour in English at 4 pm Monday-Friday. Times may vary, so call ahead. A combined ticket for all museums is 8 euros for adults. Provenca 261-265, Eixample, Barcelona. Phone 93-484-5900. http://www.lapedrera.com. The amazing Templo Expiatorio de la Sagrada Familia, to give it its full name, has to be seen to be believed. Even then it's hard to comprehend. The foundation stone was laid in 1882, and Antoni Gaudi worked on the building for more than 40 years, leaving it unfinished when he died in 1926. Unfinished it remains, though work continues amid controversy: What few plans and models Gaudi left behind were destroyed or badly damaged at the outset of the Spanish Civil War, and those directing the current work are more or less guessing at the architect's intentions. You'll have no trouble distinguishing the portions that are pure Gaudi and those that are more recent additions, based on the color and condition of the stonework. Nonetheless, it's a must-see for all visitors to Barcelona (expect big crowds). Additions include color mosaics as well as materials such as carbon fiber, which did not exist during Gaudi's lifetime but are needed today to make the structure earthquake-proof. Upon completion, the building will nearly double in height. In the crypt of the church, you will find one of the most complete explanations of Gaudi's work, including models, sculptures in progress, drawings, and photographs of the man himself and the progress of the church. We suggest you begin there so that you have a greater understanding of the rest of the building. After that, if you don't have a fear of heights, climb the dizzying circular stairway that ascends one of the massive church spires (an elevator—2 euros—will spare you some of the climbing). There are lookouts along the way, and you'll cross high walkways that yield views of the city and the ongoing church construction. If you have time, don't miss the church Sunday school in the southeast corner of the site. It is a reconstruction of the building that mobs burned, along with Gaudi's laboratory, during the Spanish Civil War and shows the architect's ability to express his genius in a very small building. April-September open daily 9 am-8 pm; October-March till 6 pm. Guided tours are daily at 11 am and 1 pm, and also May-October at 3 and 5 pm. 8 euros adults. Guided tours and audio guides cost an additional 3.50 euros. Mallorca 401, Eixample, Barcelona. Phone 93-207-3031. http://www.sagradafamilia.org. Les Rambles
This tree-dappled avenue is the heart, soul and central hub of Barcelona, not to mention a world-famous thoroughfare lined with remarkably diverse architectural styles. Although it is technically five streets (Rambla de Santa Monica, Rambla des Caputxins, Rambla de St. Josep, Rambla d'Estudis and Rambla Canaletes), the separation has not been clear for at least two centuries, and all are generally referred to as Les Rambles (in Spanish, Las Ramblas). At least once during your visit, you should plan to stroll its full length, from Placa Catalunya to the statue of Christopher Columbus presiding over the port. Throughout the day and night it surges with people and offers a variety of amusements. Street performers line the boulevard, the most common being the human statues of one sort or another. You'll see mimes, jugglers and puppet theaters, too. There are also flower and bird vendors and lots of outdoor cafes where you can take a seat and watch the informal parade flow past you. The end near the port has an open-air artisan market where you can find attractive gifts and souvenirs from 10:30 am till dusk on Saturday and Sunday. The name translates as "Block of Discord," a reference to the three contrasting modernista buildings that stand close together along Passeig de Gracia. On the southern corner is Domenech i Montaner's ornate Casa Lleo Morera. A few doors up, at No. 41, is the intriguing geometric Casa Amatller by Puig i Cadafalch. Temporary art exhibitions are sometimes held on the ground floor by the Fundacio Amatller. Next door, at No. 43, is Antoni Gaudi's wonderful fairy-tale Casa Batllo with its carnival-mask balconies—a building that would look more at home in Disneyland than it does on a busy city street. See it at night, when it sparkles under lights. (For an unusual glimpse of these buildings, turn left onto Arago and go into the Servicio Estacion hardware emporium. From the garden furniture room on the second floor, you can see the more private face of the Casa Batllo and Casa Amatller.) You can now see the interior of Casa Batllo using self-guided audio tours. A tour of the piano nobile includes the lobby, main drawing room, dining room, courtyard and interior balconies. You can also visit the rooftop with its fantastical chimneys, via the attic and main staircase. Casa Batllo is open daily 9 am-8 pm unless rooms are in use. Each tour costs 10 euros, or 16 euros for both. Passeig de Gracia, between Consell de Cent and Arago, Eixample, Barcelona. Phone 93-216-0306. http://www.casabatllo.es. Another of the modernista landmarks, this one was designed by Domenech i Montaner and built around the beginning of the 20th century. It's now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as a focal point for the city's classical music scene. Although it's impressive from the outside, try to take a tour or see a performance at the hall so you can get a look at the magnificent stained-glass ceiling and other interior design elements. Guided 50-minute tours are offered daily 10 am-3:30 pm (till 7 pm July-September) with the English-language version leaving every 30 minutes 10 am-3 pm. In August, the Palau remains open until 6 pm. Tour admission is 10 euros adults. Buy tickets at the box office or the Muses del Palau shop daily 9:30 am-3 pm (no advance reservations). Sant Francesc de Paula 2, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-295-7200. http://www.palaumusica.org. The current Barcelona Pavilion (also known as the Mies van der Rohe Pavilion) is an exact replica of the German architect's influential work of modern architecture, originally built in 1929 for the International Exposition. (Don't confuse modern with Barcelona's modernisme style, which is known as art nouveau in most of the world.) The pavilion's stark, simple lines are a forerunner of many architectural designs in subsequent decades: It looks a lot like libraries and other public buildings from the 1960s. The pavilion is small, and there's not a lot to see inside except Mies van der Rohe's famous Barcelona chairs (which the caretaker won't let you sit on). Daily 10 am-8 pm. 3.50 euros adults. Avinguda del Marques de Comilla, Montjuic, Barcelona. Phone 93-423-4016. http://www.miesbcn.com. This soaring Catalan Gothic church sits in the heart of the medieval city's maritime district. Designed by the architect Berengur de Montagut, this structure is considered by many to be Barcelona's most beautiful church. The foundation stone was laid to celebrate the conquest of Cerdena, which completed the Catalan domination of the region. Its relatively swift construction, between 1329 and 1384, made for an unusual unity of style. The interior, too, is uplifting in its exquisite simplicity and elegance, partly because its baroque trappings were burned during the Spanish Civil War. It also has perfect acoustics and serves as a wonderful setting for concerts and choir recitals, especially during the evenings when it's all lit up. Daily 9 am-1:30 pm and 4:30-8 pm. Placa Santa Maria 1, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-310-2390. One of the most important contemporary art collections in Spain, it contains more than 700 permanent works that represent the evolution of contemporary art. One of the most famous works is Schmerzraum, an installation made of sheets of lead, iron and silver, by Joseph Beuys. Many international artists such as Donald Judd, Jannis Kounellis, Bruce Naumann, Gerhard Richter and Sigmar Polke are also represented. Concerts, artistic and literary conferences, and various other activities take place regularly in the museum building, which dates from 1909 and is considered a work of art itself. A media library is available to visitors. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-8 pm. Free. Marques de Comillas 6-8 (Metro: Espana), Montjuic, Barcelona. Phone 93-476-8600. http://www.fundacio.lacaixa.es. One of the world's largest collections of Joan Miro's work, including paintings, graphic work, drawings, sculptures and tapestries. They're housed in a Mediterranean-style building with galleries that are bathed in natural light. The Fundacio also stages temporary exhibitions, screenings, seminars and concerts in its vocation as a platform for contemporary culture. Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Saturday 10 am-7 pm (till 8 pm July-September), Thursday 10 am-9:30 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-2:30 pm. Main museum admission is 8 euros adults. Temporary exhibits require a separate fee of 4 euros. Parc de Montjuic, Montjuic, Barcelona. Phone 93-443-9470. http://www.bcn.fjmiro.es. Housed in a 19th-century neo-Renaissance building at the bottom of Les Rambles, Barcelona's wax museum boasts 350 life-size figures. A blend of famous historical and fictional characters can be found in various settings designed to depict typical scenes of contemporary and historical life. El Bosc de les Fades is the museum's cafe, which resembles a surreal scene straight out of a fairy tale. Monday-Friday 10 am-1:30 pm and 4-7:30 pm. Saturday and Sunday 11 am-2 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm. 7.50 euros adults, 4.50 euros children. Pasaje de la Banca 7, Barcelona. Phone 93-317-2649. http://www.museocerabcn.com. This museum specializes in ancient Egyptian culture and is home to the Fundacion Clos collection, which has 700 original artifacts in its possession. The main focus is on the pharaohs and their concept of life after death. In addition, visitors can enjoy evening theatrical re-enactments of ancient Egyptian cultural life and various temporary exhibitions featured throughout the year. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. There are free guided tours on Friday at 5 pm. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. 11 euros (theatrical re-enactments Friday and Saturday 9:30-11 pm. Special prices apply). Valencia 284, Barcelona. Phone 93-488-0188. http://www.museuegipci.com. Tracing the evolution of the textile industry, this museum contains various collections of garments, tapestries, embroideries and the apparatuses involved in the production of textiles, both from Spain and abroad. The museum, which was closed for renovations early in 2008, is now located opposite the Picasso museum inside the 13th-century Montcada palace. When changes are complete, the museum will house design and fashion expositions, and its permanent collections will move to the Palau Reial de Pedralbes. Re-opening is planned for October 2008. Palau Reial de Pedralbes, Avinguda Diagonal 686, Barcelona. Phone 93-256-2300. http://www.museutextil.bcn.es. Often referred to as MACBA, this museum showcases works by contemporary artists the world over, but it's the museum building that gets most of the attention. Designed by U.S. architect Richard Meier and opened in 1995, the dazzling white structure is the flagship of the ambitious renovation of the Raval district, a desperately run-down neighborhood. Inside, the museum has lots of natural light and ramps for walking ease. Various temporary exhibits augment the main collection. Monday and Wednesday-Friday 11 am-7:30 pm (late June-late September till 8 pm and midnight on Thursday), Saturday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday 10 am-3 pm, closed Tuesday. Admission for the entire museum is 7.50 euros adults (main collection and one of the temporary exhibitions); admission to one temporary exhibit only is 4 euros. Placa del Angels 1 (Metro: Universita), Barcelona. Phone 93-412-0810. http://www.macba.es. This institution is actually a collection of museums. The main branch incorporates the ensemble of monumental buildings on Placa del Rei. The underground levels there reveal fascinating subterranean layers of the city's ancient history, including some remains from the Roman colony Barcino. An entire ancient street and a fourth-century Christian basilica are also preserved just where they were discovered during city excavations in the 1930s. Exhibits on the upper floors chart later developments in Barcelona. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm (June-September the museum remains open 2-4 pm), Sunday and holidays 10 am-3 pm. 5 euros adults. Admission is free on the first Saturday afternoon of each month. Placa del Rei, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-319-0222. http://www.museuhistoria.bcn.es. A lively, interactive overview of the history of Catalonia is housed in a restored port building. Artifacts, hands-on exhibits, audiovisuals and animated models reconstruct the social and human complexity of each period. Guidebooks in English are available. A restaurant is located on the top floor overlooking the port. Tuesday and Thursday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Wednesday 10 am-8 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-2:30 pm, closed Monday. 4 euros adults, free on the first Sunday of each month. Admission charges vary for temporary exhibitions. Placa de Pau Vila 3, Port Vell, Barcelona. Phone 93-225-4700. http://www.en.mhcat.net. This museum presents Barcelona as you've never seen it before: made out of chocolate. The Olympic stadium, Gaudi's buildings and other Barcelona landmarks are all formed from the intoxicating sweet stuff. An initiative of the Provincial Guild of Pastry Chefs and City Hall, the museum is housed in the old Sant Agusti convent (suitably equipped with arctic-level air-conditioning to prevent Barcelona from melting). The museum also whisks you through the history of the "bitter drink" of the Aztecs and enlightens you about chocolate as medicine, food and aphrodisiac. And, of course, there's a scrumptious cafe and shop with consumable chocolate. Monday and Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-3 pm. 3.90 euros adults. Admission is free on the first Monday of each month. Carrer Comerc 36, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-268-7878. http://www.museuxocolata.com. This appealing museum is housed in a wing of the old royal palace in the heart of the Barri Gotic. It displays wooden crucifixes, religious sculptures and the quirky Museu Sentimental, donated by local sculptor and collector Frederic Mares. The patio cafe is a haven of cool and peace in the summer. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-3 pm. 4.20 euros adults, free on the first Sunday of every month and after 3 pm on Wednesday. Placa de Sant Iu 5-6, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-310-5800. http://www.museumares.bcn.es. One of Barcelona's most popular museums, housed in the breathtaking Drassanes (Royal Shipyards), which date to the 1200s. The structure is a true masterpiece of Catalan civil Gothic architecture and worth visiting almost as much as the exhibits themselves. There are extensive collections of model boats and ships, sea-related paintings, maps and charts, nautical instruments and figureheads. The museum also houses a planetarium and the Santa Eulalia sailing ship. Interesting for visitors of all ages. Daily 10 am-8 pm. 6.50 euros adults (2.40 euros for Santa Eulalia only, 3 euros for the planetarium only). Avinguda de les Drassanes 1, Port Vell, Barcelona. Phone 93-342-9920. http://www.museumaritimbarcelona.org. The Royal Monastery of Santa Maria de Pedralbes was founded in 1326 and is a splendid example of Gothic forms and structures. In addition to the church, visit the three-story cloister and the chapel of Sant Miquel with its 14th-century murals. The infirmary, vaulted refectory, kitchen, and everyday objects and furniture give you the feel of what life used to be like in a convent. In fact, part of the building is still home to a community of nuns. A former dormitory now houses a selection of medieval, Renaissance and baroque art from the Thyssen-Bornemisza Collection (the main collection is in Madrid). Tuesday-Sunday and holidays 10 am-2 pm. 4 euros adults. Combination tickets for both areas are 5.50 euros. Baixada del Monestir 9, Pedralbes, Barcelona. Phone 93-203-9282. http://www.museuhistoria.bcn.es/cat/centres/pedralbes. Located in the Palau Nacional (Montjuic), this museum (often referred to as MNAC) includes one of the world's most important collections of Romanesque art, including delicate murals rescued from the walls of tiny mountain churches in Catalonia. It also exhibits Gothic, Renaissance and baroque works. The interior of the palace, built for the International Exhibition of 1929, was partially remodeled by Italian architect Gae Aulenti in the early 1990s. The museum's front steps offer a spectacular view of the city. Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday and holidays 10 am-2:30 pm, closed Monday. 8.50 euros adults (valid for 2 days within a month, audioguide included). Temporary exhibitions require a separate fee; combined tickets for permanent and temporary exhibits available. Free on the first Thursday of each month. Palau Nacional, Montjuic, Barcelona. Phone 93-622-0376. http://www.mnac.es. The museum's focus is on the early formative years of Pablo Picasso (1895-1904), many of which were spent in Barcelona. The collection includes drawings, representational and cubist paintings and works from the artist's Blue and Pink Periods, housed in five adjacent medieval palaces. One of the highlights is the collection of interpretations that Picasso did of Velazquez's Las Meninas. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-8 pm, closed Monday. 9 euros adults, free on the first Sunday of every month. Temporary exhibits require an additional fee. Combination tickets for permanent and temporary exhibits available. Montcada 15-23, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-319-6310. http://www.museupicasso.bcn.es. Essential for soccer fans: The museum presents the history of the FC Barcelona team (also known as Barca) with audiovisuals, glittering trophies (including the precious European Cup of 1992), and an amazing assortment of boots, shirts, photos and stadium models. A visit to the museum lets you gaze upon the hugely impressive Nou Camp stadium and also visit Barca's ice-skating rink. Monday-Saturday 10 am-6:30 pm (till 8 pm April-October), Sunday and holidays 10 am-2:30 pm. 7 euros adults (11 euros when combined with stadium tour). Aristides Maillol 12-18, Les Corts, Barcelona. Phone 93-496-3608. http://www.fcbarcelona.com. | Neighborhoods & Districts | Top |
The Gothic Quarter is the oldest portion of Barcelona, a warren of narrow streets on the northeast side of Les Rambles. It was originally the site of the Roman settlement and the area later encompassed by the medieval walls. Now it's one of the city's most interesting districts, packed with shops, bars and restaurants, many of them occupying centuries-old buildings. Sights of note include the cathedral, a number of museums and surviving bits of Roman walls. The nerve center of the old city, Placa Sant Jaume, goes back to Roman times, when it formed the intersection of the north-south and east-west roads. It's an excellent starting point from which to explore the rest of the Gothic Quarter. Farther to the east you'll find the Born area. Several of the handsome old mansions there now house museums, including the Museu Picasso. Nestled between Parc de la Ciutadella and Via Laietana, Born offers an eclectic mix of designer fashion outlets and small artisan shops for you to explore during the day and plenty of bars, restaurants, nightclubs and terraces to sample at night. This area of the city was first built in the mid-1800s after the medieval walls were demolished and Barcelona was allowed to expand. The Eixample (pronounced eye-SHAAM-pla) was laid out according to a plan drawn up by Ildefons Cerda and is made up of a uniform grid with the corners of each block "flattened" or pushed in to make a hexagon out of a square—it's easy to identify on maps. The Eixample quickly became a fashionable residential and shopping area (which it remains). It's the prime area in which to view the buildings of the modernisme movement. At the western edge of the Eixample is the Parc Joan Miro with the colorful totemic landmark of Miro's Woman and Bird rising from a small lake. It's especially pretty when lit up at night. On the opposite side of Les Rambles from the Barri Gotic, El Raval once had a reputation as a famous red-light district (also known as the Barrio Chino, or Barri Xino). In a sense it still is: Prostitutes aren't an uncommon sight. But the area is also undergoing extensive revamping, making it a fascinating mixture of the old and the ultramodern. One of Gaudi's buildings, the Palau Guell, lies just a half block off Les Rambles. Many fashionable bars and restaurants are also in the area, attracting a young, bohemian crowd. The neighborhood can still be a bit dicey at times, however, so be cautious if visiting after dark. Stroll up the Passeig de Gracia, cross the Diagonal, and you're in Gracia, formerly a town in its own right before it was swallowed by Barcelona's growth. Turn into the warren of narrow streets and enjoy a more private Barcelona with an atmosphere of its own. The district is characterized by independent design and art and cinema movements, and is home to a myriad of specialist shops, trendy bars and restaurants. You can find old-fashioned herbalists and junk shops as well as stylishly renovated stores, superb delicatessens and two municipal food markets. Placa del Sol and Placa Rius i Taulet are the main squares where you can enjoy a drink on a cafe terrace. The nightlife, which attracts people from all over town, centers on Carrer Verdi. The area is also famous for its spectacular street parties and celebrations in August. You'll need at least a full day to enjoy all that this landmark promontory, the largest green area in the city, has to offer. It has a hilltop castle, five museums, various parks and botanical gardens, an amusement park, and the stadium and other facilities used in the 1992 Olympic Games as well as Poble Espanyol, a village that includes facsimiles of buildings from throughout Spain. Ways of getting up the hill include escalators or buses from Placa Espanya, a tourist train (which is particularly fun for kids), an aerial cable car from the port and a funicular train that runs from Parallel Metro station (5 euros round-trip). The old port area, which surrounds the point where Les Rambles meets the sea, doesn't appear old: It has been the site of renovation in recent decades, especially for the Olympics. The statue of Columbus at the foot of Les Rambles makes a convenient starting point for exploring this area. Nearby, in the old royal shipyard building, is the Museu Maritim. To the northeast is La Barceloneta, the traditional fishermen's district and home to the best seafood restaurants in town. (For practical purposes, La Barceloneta can be thought of as part of Port Vell, though it's commonly referred to as a place unto itself.) The area of the Olympic Village was once a wasteland of derelict factories, railroad tracks and warehouses. Today, it's a stylish residential district. With its fountains and gardens, shopping malls and cinema complexes, it is also a popular leisure space for locals and visitors alike. It includes 2.5 mi/4 km of beach and the Port Olympic, packed with restaurants, bars and discos. On Sunday, it seems as if the whole of Barcelona is down in the Vila Olimpica area; the restaurants are crammed then, so if you can go there on another day, you'll be better off. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
On the edge of the city and stretching to the foothills, this luxuriant park is a favorite haunt of bikers and joggers. It has children's play areas, a pine-shaded picnic area and some stunning olive trees. The rose garden has more than 10,000 plants, which flower at different times April-November. Daily 10 am-sunset. Avinguda Diagonal 706, Barcelona. Phone 93-424-3809. Charmingly old-fashioned in its geometrical layout, the Parc Ciutadella is leafy and restful, yet filled with surprises such as the flamboyant waterfall, the sculpture of the dainty Lady With the Umbrella by Roig i Sole, rare trees and a boating lake. Originally a citadel built in 1715 to keep Barcelona in line after the War of the Spanish Succession, this area was handed over to the city in 1869 and turned into a park. Barcelona started on its cosmopolitan journey when the park was chosen as the site for the Universal Exhibition of 1888, the gateway to which was the Arc de Triomf (Triumphal Arch). A cafe-restaurant built for the Exhibition is now the Zoology Museum. Still standing are the Hivernacle (conservatory) with a cafeteria, the shady Umbracle (tropical hothouse) and the geology museum. The southeast end of the park is taken up by the zoo. Daily 7:30 am-10 pm. Passeig Pujades and Passeig Picasso, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Gaudi's dreamland creation, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Park Guell has been painstakingly restored and is a must-see. It was originally planned as a housing development, but only a few buildings were completed, including the gingerbread gatehouse. Some of Barcelona's most famous visual symbols are in the park: Gaudi's mosaic dragon (or lizard), the monumental plaza with its colorful serpentine bench made in trencadis (bits of ceramic) and fabulous views of the city. The park stretches up the hill, with twisting paths through the woods. Admission to the park is free, although entry to the Gaudi House-Museum, where the architect spent the last 20 years of his life, is 4 euros adults (October-March daily 10 am-6 pm, April-September till 8 pm). Olot 7, Barcelona. Phone 93-219-3811. | Amusement Parks | Top |
This slightly old-fashioned amusement park is perched on Tibidabo, the summit of the Collserola Range, where you can enjoy a pine-scented breather from the congestion in the city below. The thrills are less than awesome—some of the rides date back to 1901—but they're still fun for children, and the park has a spectacular view of the city. The Museu d'Automates is a collection of old fairground machines. A fun way to get to the park is to take the Tramvia Blau (Blue Tram), which begins on Avinguda Tibidabo, close by the FGC station of the same name. The tram will take you to the funicular train that runs to the top of the mountain. Weekends and holidays only October-May, check extended schedule the rest of the year. The park generally opens at noon. Closing time can vary from 6 pm to 1 am, depending on the time of year and day of the week. Entrance and unlimited rides 24 euros, 14 euros for children less than 47 in/1.2 m tall. Other tickets with limited rides also available. Placa Tibidabo 3, Barcelona. Phone 93-211-7942. http://www.tibidabo.es. The name translates to Spanish Village. Built for the International Exhibition of 1929, it includes replicas (often on a smaller scale) of buildings, squares and bridges found throughout the country. It was revamped for the 1992 Olympics and turned into a local nightlife hot spot with numerous bars and restaurants. It's still open in the daytime, however, and has lots of shops with crafts and knickknacks as well as children's games, puppet shows and an audiovisual program, Barcelona Experience (available in English). If you're not going simply for the bars and restaurants, your appreciation of Poble Espanyol will depend on how much you like tourist-oriented theme attractions and how much you like to shop. If neither appeals to you, don't bother. Monday 9 am-8 pm (till 2 am during the summer), Tuesday-Thursday 9 am-2 am, Friday 9 am-4 am, Saturday 9 am-5 am, Sunday 9 am-midnight. 8 euros adults, 3 euros extra for guided tours. Avinguda Marques de Comilla, Montjuic, Barcelona. Phone 93-508-6300. http://www.poble-espanyol.com. | Zoos & Wildlife | Top |
Take a walk through shark-infested waters while staying safe and dry. A 260-ft-/80-m-long transparent tunnel lets you stroll through the Oceanario, the main tank that contains thousands of specimens. Outside the fishy depths, amenities for humans include an interactive area for small children, an auditorium, a cafeteria, a gift shop and a panoramic terrace. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-9 pm (till 9:30 pm in June and September, till 11 pm in July and August), Saturday and Sunday 9:30 am-9:30 pm. Last admission one hour before closing time. 16 euros adults, 11 euros children ages 4-12. Moll d'Espanya, Port Vell, Barcelona. Phone 93-221-7474. http://www.aquariumbcn.com. This extremely pleasant zoo is located in Parc de la Ciutadella. It includes dolphin shows and farm animals. The zoo also offers shady picnic areas, pony rides and play equipment. Open daily 10 am-5 pm November-February, till 6 pm March-May and October, till 7 pm June-September. 15.40 euros adults, 9.30 euros children ages 3-12. Reduced admission May-September after 5 pm. Passeig Pujades and Passeig Picasso (in Parc de la Ciutadella), Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-225-6780. http://www.zoobarcelona.com. | Other Options | Top |
If you're in town in summer, let the changing forms and colors of the Font Magica, originally designed for the International Exposition of 1929, mesmerize you. As the water jets dance to music, a fan-like light show plays from behind the dome of the Palau Nacional. The fountain operates May-September Thursday-Sunday 8 pm-midnight; October-April Friday and Saturday 7-9 pm on the half-hour. Free. Placa Carles Buigas, Montjuic, Barcelona. The district of Sant Adria de Besos was completely renovated for the 2004 Universal Forum of Cultures. The legacy of this event is a state-of-the-art complex with extensive facilities for conferences, exhibitions, concerts and cultural events. The forum complex now forms part of a tourist route on the Bus Touristic and can also be reached by the tramline specifically built for the Forum. By car, follow Avinguda Diagonal north until it meets the sea. Its vanguard architecture alone makes it worth a visit. http://www.barcelona2004.org. The most popular recreation area in Barcelona is the seafront, especially near Vila Olimpica. Walkers, joggers, bicyclists and in-line skaters all make use of the area, where they can be mobile without the worries of automobile traffic. The city's beaches are there, too, extending from Barceloneta eastward. What's more, Port Olimpic at Vila Olimpica offers opportunities for sailing and other watersports.
For hiking in a real Mediterranean wood, filled with wildflowers and herbs, Collserola Natural Park is only a short train journey away from the city to the mountains north and west of Barcelona. Get there by taking the Terrassa/Sabadell line of FGC train network, which departs from the Placa Catalunya. The park is a short walk from the Baixador de Vallvidrera. In times past, only the foolish would splash into the polluted waters near Barcelona. That changed once the city began preparing for the Olympics. The coastline from Barceloneta northeast to Rio Besos was converted from industrial wasteland to seaside playground. Visitors can enjoy more than 2.5 mi/4 km of sandy shore. It's broken up into different sections with different names: Platja Sant Sebastia, Platja Barceloneta, Platja Nova Icaria, Platja Bogatell, Platja Mar Bella and Platja Nova Mar Bella.
A promenade and a number of bars and restaurants can be found along the beaches. The whole area has become popular for sunning, strolling, bicycling, in-line skating and general hanging around.
If you want to swim, be sure to check the flags on the beach, which indicate whether the surf is dangerous: A green flag indicates that it's safe to enter the water, yellow indicates that you should exercise caution while in the water and red means dangerous conditions—stay out of the water.
City Hall is promoting the use of the bicycle as an alternative to the car, and the city has created 60 mi/100 km of bicycle lanes, with more to be added. Where possible, these are segregated from traffic and pedestrians, though that's not always the case. Maps of the routes are available from the information offices. See the city's cycling Web site for maps, advice and a list of locations where you can rent bicycles both short and long term. http://www.bcn.es/bicicleta.
The most enjoyable ride is on the seafront near Vila Olimpica, where you will be undisturbed by traffic. You will have to negotiate joggers, walkers and in-line skaters, though: This is a popular place.
Un Cotxe Menys—Bike Tours Barcelona
Groups are formed daily next to the tourist office in Plaza San Jaume. No reservations are necessary for groups of fewer than 15 people. Tours last about three hours, and most of the route uses cycle lanes, parks and pedestrian zones. Daily at 11 am and also 4:30 pm Friday-Monday April to mid-September. 22 euros (includes bike rental, guide and drink). Bicycles can also be rented separately by the hour (5 euros), day (15 euros) or half-day (11 euros). Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm, Sunday 10 am-2 pm. Call ahead if you want to rent a bike outside those hours. Esparteria 3, Barcelona. Phone 93-268-2105. http://www.bicicletabarcelona.com. This 18-hole course is located outside the city. Call ahead for tee times. Greens fees Monday-Thursday 65 euros, Friday-Sunday 150 euros. Calle Villa, San Cugat del Valles (about 12 mi/20 km from Barcelona), Barcelona. Phone 93-674-3908. http://www.golfsantcugat.com. An 18-hole course not too far from the city. Equipment rentals available. Open all year. Greens fees 100 euros. Must be accompanied by a member. Call ahead for tee times. Carretera del Aeropuerto, El Prat de Llobregat (about 4 mi/7 km from the Barcelona airport on the Autovia de Castelldefels), Barcelona. Phone 93-728-1000. http://www.realclubdegolfelprat.com. | Tennis & Racquet Sports | Top |
The facilities include 18 tennis courts, a gym, fitness center and a swimming pool. Bosch i Gimpera 5-13, Barcelona. Phone 93-203-7852. http://www.rctb1899.es. Barcelona has always had a reputation as a party town. It's still true, though the emphasis now has more to do with trendy designer bars than seedy sailor dives. The rougher places are still there, though, should you wish to find them. Like other parts of Spain, Barcelona's club scene hits its peak in the wee hours and doesn't end till morning—many dance venues remain open until 5 am, though quieter bars close around 1 or 2 am.
Try to set aside one evening for a stroll through the Barri Gotic, in particular the Born area, and see what bars and bodegas the twisting streets lead you to. In warm weather, you'll find that lots of outdoor plazas become extensions of the surrounding bars, and performers such as jugglers and musicians often stop by to put on a quick show. Those looking for a little more excitement will find the clubs of Port Vell and Vila Olimpica not too far away. The gay crowd loves the bars in Eixample, which is jokingly refered to as "Gaixample."
There are more options outside the city center. In general terms, the farther away from the sea you go, the more upmarket the scene. A young, affluent crowd hangs out in bars and clubs around Santalo and Placa Francesc Macia. Tibidabo, with its wonderful views of the city, offers an incomparably elegant setting. | Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
Some places never go out of fashion. Boadas, just off Les Rambles, is among Barcelona's oldest cocktail bars, founded in 1933 by the father of the present owner, who brought his cocktail-mixing skills from the famous cocktail bar El Floridita in Havana, Cuba. It's a good choice for a pre- or post-dinner drink. Try a mojito, a Cuban concoction of rum and mint. Monday-Saturday from noon. Tallers 1, Raval, Barcelona. Phone 93-318-9592. This charming little bar sits opposite the church of Santa Maria del Mar. It's one of the few places where you can try wines by the glass (20 different choices), along with olives, slivers of the finest Iberian ham and other snacks. Tuesday-Sunday from noon (daily in summer). Placa Santa Maria 5, Born, Barcelona. Phone 93-310-3379. For those who want to live out their fantasies of being a decadent writer or artist, Marsella can fulfill your wishes. It serves absinthe, the highly potent liqueur that was a favorite of Van Gogh and other bohemians in the late 1800s and early 1900s (now illegal in most of the world, but not in Spain). The fantasy is enhanced by the bar's location in a rather seedy area of the Raval. Don't let your fantasy go too far, though: This can be an iffy area to walk through late at night, especially with a snootful of 140-proof booze. Monday-Saturday from 10 pm. Sant Pau 65, Raval, Barcelona. Phone 93-442-7263. This comfortable, elegant dance bar is at the foot of Tibidabo with fabulous views of the city. The terrace is a good place to sip drinks as you watch the sun go down. Later, there's dancing. Monday-Saturday from 11 am, Sunday from noon. Dancing begins at 11 pm. Placa Dr. Andreu (at bottom of Tibidabo funicular train), Barcelona. Phone 93-418-5879. Set in the heart of the fashionable Born area, this bar has a reputation for some of the best mojitos in town. Enjoy a refreshing cocktail and relax in a spacious and softly lit interior. Listen to jazz or chill-out music mingled with enthusiastic banter. Sunday-Thursday from 8:30 pm, Friday and Saturday from 8 pm. Passeig del Born 15, Born, Barcelona. Phone 93-310-3727. This bar is centrally located on the Gothic quarter's main thoroughfare. In the evenings, the crowd is predominantly gay. In the afternoon, it is relatively quiet and a prime spot for aspiring writers and artists who sit at tables by windows and draw inspiration from the city. Though it is less fashionable than it was some years ago, it remains one of the classic places to meet with friends and begin a serious night out. Daily 10 am-2:30 am. Ferran 23, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-317-6787. http://www.cafeschilling.com. | Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
Carpe Diem Lounge Club & Restaurant
In the late afternoon, chill out in two large Bedouin tents and enjoy your cocktail on comfy white leather sofas big enough to serve as beds. Since you need to remove your shoes, be sure your socks look good, too. Later in the night, the location turns into a funky party zone—if you feel like it, you can go for a swim under the stars in the Mediterranean, just across the street. Open daily except Sunday 2 pm-3 am. Passeig Maritim 32, Barcelona. Phone 93-224-0470. http://www.cdlcbarcelona.com. Red Lounge
One of the most fashionable club-bar-restaurants of Barcelona, with a distinctly exotic-oriental flair and located right on the beach. It sees its fair share of glitteratti. After midnight, DJ Roger Sanchez heats up the atmosphere. Passeig Joan de Borbo 76, Barcelona. Phone 93-221-3093. http://www.redloungebcn.com. Rita Blue
This cool cocktail bar and restaurant in retro design turns into a house-and-techno disco on weekends. The mojitos and caipirinhas are definitely not for the faint-hearted. Chill out on the terrace with lots of fresh air. Located in a small street off Les Rambles. Open Monday-Friday 7 pm-2 am, Saturday and Sunday until 3 am. Placa de Sant Agusti s/n, Raval, Barcelona. Phone 93-342-4086. http://www.ritablue.com. This hopping, central club on La Rambla is festooned with baroque colors of red, gold and magenta. The three dance floors feature techno, house and funk music. Daily midnight-6 am. Cover charge is 9 euros-15 euros and includes one drink. La Rambla 27, Barri Gotic, Barcelona. Phone 93-272-4980. http://www.clubfellini.com. A truly amazing dance hall built in 1902: red velvet, ornate plasterwork and bright lights from another era. The resident orchestra plays Latin, salsa and rock. Thursday beginning at midnight and Friday beginning at 3 am the Bongolounge takes over, with a DJ playing Latin techno music. La Paloma attracts people of all ages and lifestyles, from clubbers to senior couples. Thursday-Saturday 6-9:30 pm and 11:30 pm-5 am, Sunday 6-10 pm. Admission ranges from free to about 7 euros depending on time and day. Advance reservations are available (phone 93-317-7994). Tigre 27, Barcelona. Phone 93-301-6897. http://www.lapaloma-bcn.com. This very popular nightclub is situated in an old theater. Live music (blues, jazz, soul and rock) is played Monday-Saturday, starting at 12:30 am. The Friday and Saturday disco begins at midnight: lively tunes from the 1970s through 1990s as well as more contemporary dance music. Cover charges of 15 euros (for live concerts) and 12 euros (for disco) include one drink. Muntaner 246, Eixample, Barcelona. Phone 93-209-7711. http://www.luzdegas.com. One of the city's most popular gay nightspots, with a disco, a live cabaret and two dance floors. Tends to get very crowded. Daily beginning at midnight. Cover charge is about 10 euros and includes one drink. Sepulveda 185, Raval, Barcelona. Phone 93-323-5227. The ultra-fashionable Otto Zutz has four different floors, each with its own particular style and atmosphere. The main dance floor, which has three bars and is overlooked by two balconies, is situated on the ground floor. There, international DJs spin house and garage music. The Hot Club, located on the first floor, plays music from the 1970s, 1980s and more recent hip-hop. Los Altos on the top floor is the V.I.P. lounge and is often frequented by local celebrities (try to look important). The Red Room has electro-'80s music. Tuesday-Saturday from midnight. Cover 15 euros. Lincoln 15, Gracia, Barcelona. Phone 93-238-0722. http://www.ottozutz.com. The biggest club in the city hosts some of the most famous international DJ acts of the day. Its various dance floors are often redecorated especially for theme nights and events such as fashion shows. Thursday-Saturday from midnight, Sunday from 10 pm. Cover 15 euros. Avenue Doctor Maranon 17, Zona Universitaria, Barcelona. Phone 93-334-3233. http://www.clubpachabcn.com. During the day, this beachfront club is a Japanese restaurant. At night, it's a place to go to chill out and listen to different genres of music, from the more relaxed to the harder house and drum-and-bass, all with feng-shui design and plenty of VIP areas. Dress to impress and take plenty of money. Cover 20 euros-50 euros depending on the artist, and drinks are high-priced as well. Passeig Maritim de La Barceloneta 36, Barcelona. Phone 93-225-9200. http://www.shoko.biz. Antilla BCN Club
The hottest salsateca in town, with lots of live acts. Dance the night away with merengue, son, salsa and also tango. If you don't know how to dance, take the dance lessons on offer. Pretty girls can get some dance lessons for free on the spot from handsome Cuban or Colombian dancers. Daily 11 pm-5 am. Carrer d’Arago 143, Eixample, Barcelona. Phone 93-451-4564. http://www.antillasalsa.com. This unpretentious and intimate jazz club is a favorite with locals and frequented by local musicians. The live sessions, at 10:30 pm during the week and 11:30 pm on Friday and Saturday, include Brazilian music, blues and flamenco fusion in addition to jazz. Tuesday-Sunday from 8 pm. Cover charge varies according to the performers. Comtessa de Sobradiel 8, Barcelona. Phone 93-310-0755. If you're in town on a summer weekend, don't miss the opportunity to go clubbing on the roof of Gaudi's famous La Pedrera apartment building. Have a drink, admire the city view and listen to a live band. Open July-September Friday and Saturday 9 pm-1 am. The specific opening date can be seasonal, so call ahead to be sure. Cover charge is 12 euros and includes one drink. Provenca 261-5, Eixample, Barcelona. Phone 93-484-5995. http://www.lapedrera.com. | | |