Destination Guidebook for Beijing, China, People's Rep of
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Visitors should make the Forbidden City, the Summer Palace, the Temple of Heaven, and the Drum Tower and Bell Tower their top priorities, along with Olympic Park. Other temples will be of interest, too. (Confucianism, Taoism and Buddhism have flourished alongside one another since the first century AD. Most temples and monasteries were damaged during the Cultural Revolution, but several have been repaired and are worth seeing.)
Though many have been razed in the name of 21st century-progress (and the 2008 Olympics), the city has hundreds of miles/kilometers of ancient hutongs (alleys), which are lined with housing in Beijing's distinctive, traditional low-slung style. Just pick a direction and start walking.
Beijing is also constructing some of Asia's most eye-catching new architecture, including Herzog & de Meuron's Olympic Stadium, Paul Andreu's controversial domed National Grand Theater and Rem Koolhaas' angular CCTV HQ Tower.
No trip to Beijing would be complete without seeing the Great Wall of China. Make it a day trip because it's quite a drive from the city. Most tourists go to the Badaling, Mutianyu and Juyong Pass sections of the wall, but we recommend that you check out the less-visited parts at Simatai, Jinshanling, Huanghuacheng or Lianyunling. Although they're farther away, you'll find fewer tourists and more spectacular views. Other sights worth seeing include the recently renovated White Cloud Temple (Baiyun Guan), the oldest Taoist temple in the world, and Fragrant Hills Park to the northwest of the city.
Those who can't imagine visiting China without seeing a panda will want to stop at the Beijing Zoo. Its aquarium is a sure hit with children. | Historic Sites | Top  |
The center gives performances that range from Ming dynasty ritual music to Buddhist chants, accompanied by period instruments. The main courtyard features Beijing's only Ming dynasty octagonal wooden pedestals. Daily 7 am-4:30 pm. Musical show times: 9, 10 and 11 am, and 3 pm. 20 yuan (free tickets on Wednesday for the first 200 visitors). Zhihua Temple, 5 Lumicang Hutong (east of Nanxiaojie), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6525-0072. Built during the Mongol Yuan dynasty (1271-1368), this temple contains religious statuary and the Diamond Throne Pagoda. It's the most magnificent of the temples in Beijing's western hills. It's especially nice in the spring when surrounded by blossoms. Daily 8 am-4:30 pm. 15 yuan. Inside the north entrance to Fragrant Hills Park, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6259-1155, ext. 7470. This open-air observatory, established by Kublai Khan, has a history spanning three dynasties. Chinese maritime maps and superb instruments from the Ming and Qing dynasties are displayed along with items made by Jesuit scholar-priests in the 17th century. Tuesday 9 am-4 pm. 10 yuan adults, 2 yuan students. Jianguomenwai Dajie (at the Second Ring Road), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6524-2202. This charming temple has a bronze bell 21 ft/7 m high, weighing more than 46 tons, that is the biggest of its kind in China. It was cast during the reign of Emperor Yong Le (1403-24). It is said that a shallow canal was built so that the bell could be slid over ice in the winter to the newly built temple, which dates from 1733. Buddhist scriptures are engraved on the bell, which is considered a national treasure. It is rung for prosperity on New Year's Eve and during the Spring Festival. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. 10 yuan. Beisanhuanxi Jie, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6255-0819. The Confucius Temple isn't a secret, but it sees so few visitors, it seems like it is. This structure is as much museum as it is temple. It was built during the time of Kublai Khan in honor of Confucius, whose ideas have influenced China for more than 2,000 years. It also commemorates generations of scholars who passed grueling three-day exams—perhaps the world's first civil-service tests—to join the ruling elite and serve the imperial court. On the grounds are 198 tablets inscribed with the names of the successful candidates. It also is the site of the former Imperial College, where the emperor went to pay his respects to Confucius and to lecture on the classics. Compared with the crowded Lama Temple, this is a wonderful, quiet place to visit, especially in spring and autumn. Daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 10 yuan. Guozijian Jie, Andingmennei, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8401-1977. Set amidst the skyscrapers of Chaoyang, Dongyue is home to an amazing assortment of life-size plaster figures depicting the 73 Chiefs of Departments and 18 Layers of Hell Taoist tradition. Predominately a temple of the God of Taishan Mountain, offerings can be made to the different deities to help with everything from having a baby to getting a new car or a promotion at work. The Beijing Folk Arts Museum is located on the premises and has regular exhibitions. Daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 10 yuan; half-price for children less than 4 ft/1.2 m tall. 141 Chaowai Dajie, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6551-0151. Twenty-four emperors of the Ming and Qing dynasties lived in the Forbidden City, which got its name because it was off-limits to ordinary citizens (it's also known as the Palace Museum). It was built in the 14th century, but because of fires and other catastrophes, has been rebuilt several times. On the grounds are six palaces and 800 smaller buildings, reportedly containing 9,999 rooms and halls, and hundreds of gardens. The city's design and symmetry make it an architectural wonder. You would need days to see all of it, but you can see its main halls in a few hours. There are a couple of interesting museums on the grounds, including the Hall of Clocks, which contains an amazing collection of clocks. Be aware that most of the treasures that once filled the rooms were looted by the Japanese during World War II or were taken to Taiwan by the Nationalists in 1949. Some of what you'll encounter is representational, and some of the items are reporductions. Also be aware that seeing the displays can be a challenge: Many of the rooms are dimly lit as they were when the last emperor lived there. Renovation continues throughout the complex but should not affect your ability to visit all the major attractions. We recommend that you see the Forbidden City with an English-speaking guide who can explain the social and political significance of the architecture. You should be able to arrange a guide through your hotel. Alternatively, rent the audiotape narrated by actor Roger Moore. Daily 8:30 am-5:30 pm (summer), 8:30 am-4:30 pm (winter). 60 yuan mid-April to mid-October, 40 yuan mid-October to mid-April. Audio tour 40 yuan, plus 500 yuan deposit. Some exhibits, such as the Hall of Clocks and Hall of Jewellery, require an additional 10 yuan. Changan Dajie (walk through the gate on Tiananmen Square and pass through two courtyards to reach the ticket office), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6513-2255, ext. 615. Refurbished in 1994 to somewhere near its Qing-era glory, the Huguang Huiguan originally served as a guesthouse for scholars from southern provinces taking the imperial exams. It later evolved into an entertainment center with lively restaurants and theater performances where famous female-impersonating Peking Opera star Mei Lanfang was a regular performer. Today, visitors can catch excerpts of operas in the 300-seat theater. Daily 9 am-7:30 pm. Performance time daily 7:30-8:40 pm. 10 yuan (museum), 150 yuan-580 yuan (performance). 3 Hufang Lu, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6351-8284. Former imperial palaces like this one, built in 1694, were converted to religious sites according to Chinese tradition. The architecture and ornamentation of these buildings show the influence of Han, Manchu, Mongolian and Tibetan styles, and there's a striking 59-ft/18-m statue of the Maitreya (future) Buddha, carved from a single sandalwood tree. The temple was once an important center of Tibetan Lamaism, and some 200 monks still live, study and pray there. Daily 9 am-4 pm. Admission 25 yuan, audio tour 25 yuan. 12 Yonghegong Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6404-4499. Built in 1777 by an official of the Qianlong period, this compound became the home of the last emperor's father, Prince Gong. The estate is filled with beautiful rock gardens and lily ponds. Visitors can catch regular Peking opera performances in the theater with the 60-yuan package tour. It is a popular stop for Chinese tourists and can be overrun with visitors in the summer. Daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 20 yuan, 60 yuan (with guide). 17 Qianhai Xijie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6616-8149. Once the summer home for the emperor and his court, the palace consists of a series of less-formal buildings nestled in a hilly, wooded setting on a splendid lake, with gardens, bridges, pavilions, halls and towers. Though its contents were plundered, the Summer Palace recalls the opulent lifestyle of the privileged few during Qing times. Look for the marble replica of a boat, which was built by an empress using funds meant to modernize the navy. The Long Corridor, a covered 2,275-ft/700-m wooden walkway along the lake, is painted in extraordinary detail. It takes you from one great photo opportunity to the next—most tour groups walk through far too quickly. You can also take a dragon-boat ride on the lake, but it's a pretty slow ride and usually is jammed with tourists. In winter, visitors often ignore official warnings and use the frozen lake as a shortcut walkway through the palace grounds. Don't miss the trilevel opera stage favored by the Empress Dowager near the east gate (it's worth the extra 10 yuan to see it). Daily 7 am-5 pm. 35 yuan (April-October), 25 yuan (November-March). Yiheyuan Lu, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6288-1144. Located in spacious Tiantan Park, south of the central city, the Temple of Heaven is less a religious site than a historical one. Dating from the 15th century, it was where the emperor made an annual pilgrimage, complete with a huge entourage, to pray for good harvests (commoners were prohibited from viewing the ceremonies). It is made up of several circular, blue-tiled buildings. The color blue represents the heavens. The crown jewel is the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvest, which stands on a square marble terrace (representing the earth). Amazingly, the three-story building was fitted together without a single nail, peg or bit of cement. It was reconstructed in the 19th century after a fire destroyed the original. The whole park easily lends itself to a self-guided walking tour. Take a taxi there, pay at the entrance, find a map (usually near the entrance) and then wander to your heart's content. Daily 8 am-6 pm. 15 yuan (park only), 35 yuan (all access). Yongdingmen Dajie (south gate), Chongwen District, Beijing. Phone 6702-8866. These magnificent ancient towers have existed in various incarnations for 700 years. The Drum Tower houses replicas of 24 giant drums that were used to announce the time during imperial days. Today, the tower houses 25 drums that are struck for visitors every half-hour 9-11:30 am and 2-5 pm. The drum room offers a great view of the northern part of the city. Just north of the Drum Tower is the Bell Tower—not to be confused with the Big Bell Temple. Inside is a 500-year-old bronze bell with 4-in-/10-cm-thick walls. Fees are 15 yuan for the Bell Tower and 20 yuan for the Drum Tower. During Spring Festival, visitors can ring the bell for 100 yuan a pop. 9-A Zhonglouwan (at the corner of Gulou Dajie and Dianmenwai Dajie), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8402-7869. Built over a span of 1,100 years, the Great Wall is one of the most awesome sights in the world. It is a paved, elevated highway that snakes across the countryside for more than 3,000 mi/4,830 km. In some places it is wide enough for carts and horsemen to travel along the top. A barrier to persistent invaders from the north, it also served as a dividing line between settled agriculture on the plain and nomadic life in the mountains. It is built of brick and stone and filled with earth—and supposedly the bodies of conscripted laborers who died building it. Much of it is in disrepair, but several sections near Beijing have been reconstructed. At Badaling, about 50 mi/80 km to the northwest, and at Mutianyu, 90 minutes away by car, visitors can climb a hill or ride a cable car to the top of the wall. (At Mutianyu there's a steep walk from the main gate.) At Juyong Pass, which is closer to the city, you'll find lots of teenagers trying to sprint up the 350-plus steps. Badaling, Mutianyu and Juyong Pass are heavily visited and developed, with gift shops, theaters, snack stands and even amusement-park-style rides. Note: The government has apparently outlawed hiking along sections of the "wild wall" (unrestored sections of the wall around Simatai and elsewhere), although people still do it. Do so at your own risk. Some hotels will arrange a tour to any of these wall sections, but for a more unstructured visit, take a taxi or a bus. You can easily spend a whole day at the wall: Pack a picnic lunch (take plenty of water) and enjoy the fresh air and vistas. Be aware that temperatures at the Great Wall are almost always cooler than in Beijing, so plan ahead in winter. A visit to the Great Wall may be most rewarding for the physically fit (most sections offer strenuous up-and-down climbs), but just seeing the wall is worth the trip. Admission runs about 50 yuan. Cable car fees at Mutianyu and Simatai are extra. The world's largest public square is a huge, open space (covering 122 acres/49 hectares) and is the beating heart of Beijing. Most travelers will see it while passing through the city or while visiting the Forbidden City, which can be accessed through the Gate of Heavenly Peace at the north end. Said to hold as many as 1 million people, Tiananmen Square was where Mao Zedong inaugurated the revolutionary People's Republic of China in 1949 and where, 40 years later, the government used tanks to cut down reform-minded students. Mao's iconic unsmiling portrait hangs above the entrance. Mao's Mausoleum is behind the Monument to the People's Heroes, on the square. On the square's south side is a 15th-century gate (Qianmen) that once was part of an outer wall surrounding the city. The Great Hall of the People lies on the west side of the square. The world's oldest Taoist temple—also the center of Taoism in north China—is located among the smokestacks of southern Beijing. Monks are still in residence, and every February during the spring festival, a temple fair is held there. Inside, you'll find an amazingly tranquil world of exotic deity statues, religious artifacts of the Ming and Qing dynasties, and long-haired Taoist priests. A meditation chamber is open to the public for chanting four times a day at 8:30 and 10 am, and 2 and 3:30 pm. Daily 8:30 am-4 pm. 10 yuan. 6 Baiyunguan Jie, Xibianmenwai, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6346-3531. This temple is known for its dagoba, a reliquary said to hold a part of the Buddha's body. A pagodalike structure, the dagoba was built by Lamaists from Tibet during the time of Kublai Khan, but the building dates from the Qing dynasty. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm. 20 yuan. Fuxingmennei Dajie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6616-0211. http://www.bjtwst.org.cn. Located on the campus of Peking University (Beida), this collection spans 280,000 years from the Paleolithic period to the Qing dynasty. On display are exquisite Shang dynasty bronzes and pottery from the Tang and Song dynasties. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm. 20 yuan. Inside Peking University campus, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6275-1667. http://www.sackler.org/china/amschina.htm. This modern museum opened its doors officially in December 2005 and is a wonderful exhibition space for a diverse collection of artifacts relating to Beijing's past and present. This eclecticism means it is also a good place to see visiting exhibitions, ranging from Italian Renaissance treasures to contemporary British art. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Ticket price 20 yuan. 16 Fuxingmenwai Dajie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6337-0491 or 6337-0492. The largest of its kind in China, this museum contains fossils or specimens of almost all plants and animals found in China, including such prehistoric ones as the woolly mammoth and Tyrannosaurus rex. Squeamish visitors and those traveling with children may want to skip the third floor, where exhibits on human anatomy have been created from dissected cadavers suspended in formaldehyde. Daily 8:30 am-5 pm. 15 yuan adults. 126 Tianqiao Nandajie, Chongwen District, Beijing. Phone 6702-4431. http://www.bmnh.org.cn. Founded in 1959, this renovated museum has permanent exhibits of works by Chinese artists and frequent shows by foreign artists in 14 huge exhibition halls. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 20 yuan. 1 Wusi Dajie (north of Wangfujing), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6401-7076. This cavernous installation occupies the east flank of Tiananmen Square and underwent an expansion project that extended its floor space to 230,000 sq yards/192,000 sq m. Daily 8:30 am-4:30 pm. 30 yuan. 16 Donchang'an Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8447-4914. http://www.nationalmuseum.cn/en/home/index.jsp. See 5,000 years' worth of war paraphernalia: AK-47s, flame throwers, tanks, ancient weaponry, uniforms and even American U2 spy plane wreckage. A military buff's paradise. Daily 7:30 am-5:30 pm. 20 yuan. 9 Fuxing Lu, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6686-6244. | Neighborhoods & Districts | Top |
The ancient hutongs (alley neighborhoods) afford a glimpse of old China that is quickly disappearing. Traditional courtyard homes, known as siheyuan, were built according to principles of order and harmony dating from the second century BC. Their outside walls form the alleys. The hutongs that remain are most plentiful near the Forbidden City and the Second Ring Road at Andingmen. (Subtle architectural details differentiate homes of the wealthy from those of commoners or merchants.) We recommend a visit to the back lanes ( houhai) north of Beihai Park, where you can find such famous hutongs as Yichi Dajie (Beijing's shortest) and Qianshi Hutong (the city's narrowest). The mile-/kilometer-long Nanluoguxiang hutong has been extensively, but sensitively, renovated and is now a thirving boutique, cafe and restaurant district, sometimes disparagingly nicknamed the "Disney Hutong." The alleys are fine for exploration, but the courtyards themselves are private. Remember to take along your hotel's card with the name written in Chinese in case you get lost and need directions back. For more information about touring hutongs, contact the Beijing Hutong Tourist Agency. You can rent a pedicab from them, complete with an English-speaking guide. Many major hotels also arrange guided hutong tours. 26 Dianmen Xilu, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6615-3236. Qianmen means "front gate," and the Qianmen area is named for the front gate of the old walled city, which was left standing after the walls themselves were demolished. In Ming times, establishments that were banned within city walls—including theaters, brothels, and certain shops and restaurants—found a niche there. The Qianmen area also served as the route for the emperor's yearly procession from the Forbidden City to the Temple of Heaven to pray for a good harvest. It was, in essence, the heart of old Beijing. The area has been redesigned and rebuilt as a Beijing history-themed shopping and dining area. The imposing Qianmen Gate is itself worth seeing. Just south of Tiananmen Square, Beijing. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
Although many of the more affluent parts of the city have been gentrifying in recent years, Beijing is still by and large a gritty, crowded metropolis largely bereft of attractive landscaping in most neighborhoods and business districts. But the city boasts numerous large, beautiful parks—usually consisting of concrete walkways through areas of trees—that draw locals and visitors for strolling, tai chi chuan, picnics and other activities. (In some, you'll find older Chinese doing their daily exercises on colorful apparatuses that resemble children's playground equipment.)
Located northwest of the Forbidden City, this park has an 800-year history as the royal garden—and playground—of the Jin, Yuan, Ming and Qing dynasties. It was also the site of Kublai Khan's imperial palace and court, now destroyed. The park is grand and sprawling, with some beautiful landscaping, a lake and paddleboats for rent by the hour (10 yuan). Visit at 6 am to see hundreds of people practicing tai chi chuan, or enjoy a meal fit for the emperor at the Fangshan Restaurant in the center of the park. Daily 6 am-8 pm. 10 yuan (park), 20 yuan (all access). 1 Wenjin Jie, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6403-1102. Situated in western Beijing, the botanical garden offers a nice green retreat from the smog and chaos of city life. Attractions include a huge, modern greenhouse stocked with flowers of all shapes and sizes, quaint promenades and plenty of sleepy pavilions where you can rest and reflect. Wofosi (the Temple of the Reclining Buddha), which dates back to the Tang dynasty, is also in the park, where you can check out its rather large namesake. Daily 6 am-7 pm (summer), 7 am-6 pm (winter). 5 yuan for the park, additional 5 yuan for Wofosi. Wofosi Lu, Xiangshan, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6259-1283. http://www.beijingbg.com/english/index.asp. Just north of the Forbidden City, this artificial hill was created from soil excavated to create the moat around the imperial compound. This is where Chong Zhen, the last emperor of the then-unraveling Ming dynasty, hanged himself from a tree as the Manchus were streaming into the city. Now a park, it was once the highest vantage point in Beijing. The Ten Thousand Springs Pavilion at the summit affords a lovely panoramic view that includes the Forbidden City and is the perfect spot to watch the sunset. Nice flowers in season, and good for strolling. April and May daily 6 am-9 pm; June-August 6 am-10 pm; September and October 6 am-midnight; November-March 6:30 am-8 pm. 10 yuan. 1 Wenjin St. (north of the Forbidden City), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6404-4071. This park is a favorite place for hiking, especially in autumn, when the changing leaves make for spectacular scenery. Once the emperor's hunting grounds, it has remnants of temples and pavilions to visit along the trail. If you have the energy, climb to the peak to watch the sunrise. Many elderly Beijingers practice tai chi chuan and sing on the peak at dawn. The park is also home to the beautiful Azure Clouds temple. Daily 6 am-6:30 pm (winter), 6 am-sunset (summer). 10 yuan. Xiangshan, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6259-1155. | Zoos & Wildlife | Top |
The aquarium at the Beijing Zoo is a state-of-the-art facility. It features themed exhibits of fresh- and saltwater aquatic life, a rain forest with pools of fish, a shark tank, and shows featuring dolphins and sea lions. We think it's much better than the Blue Zoo. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 100 yuan adults, 50 yuan children, free for two children less than 4 ft/1.2 m tall. Prices include zoo admission. 108 Gaoliangqiao Xijie, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6217-6655, ext. 90. http://www.bj-sea.com. The zoo is known for its pandas, but it's not a modern zoo by any standard, although conditions in some of the displays (most notably the ones housing primates) have been improved. Still, the weeping willows, bamboo groves and placid ponds provide a pleasant setting. However the living conditions of the animals, especially compared to modern zoos around the world, can make a visit somewhat depressing. The grounds date from the 17th century, when it was a garden for one of the Qing emperor's sons. It was later converted to a park, but the Empress Dowager Cixi refurbished it to house animals given to her as gifts. Many were stuffed after they died and then put on display. Today, you'll see only live animals at the zoo. Daily 7:30 am-5 pm (winter), 7:30 am-6 pm (summer). 10 yuan (winter), 15 yuan (summer), 5 yuan for the Panda House, free for children less than 4 ft/1.2 m tall. 137 Xizhimenwai, Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6839-0274. http://www.bjzoo.com. A joint venture between China and New Zealand, this aquarium is popular with children. The main attraction is a 420-ft-/130-m-long moving walkway underneath the main tank, which provides great views of sharks and other creatures swimming by. Most children want at least two passes along the walkway. A local company, SinoScuba, organizes scuba diving at the Blue Zoo; no previous diving experience is required (phone 369-302-8913; http://www.sinoscuba.com). Daily 8 am-8 pm. 75 yuan adults, 50 yuan for children younger than 12, free for children less than 3 ft/1 m tall. South Gate of Workers' Stadium, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6591-3397, ext. 1560. http://www.blue-zoo.com. With the emergence of a class of young, upwardly mobile Beijingers and the influx of visitors from other countries, recreational facilities have blossomed throughout the city. Most major hotels catering to foreigners have state-of-the-art exercise equipment (weights, cardio machines) and swimming pools, and many have spas and wellness centers. However, the Chinese are learning through trial and error, so prices and amenities often change. Ask at your hotel about aerobics classes, instruction in tai chi chuan, ballroom dancing, yoga, Pilates and other organized activities that are showing up around town. There are also modern fitness-center franchises such as the California Fitness, Yao Ming Sport Club and Total Fitness, located mostly in the Chaoyang District. Most of these places require memberships. An excellent and popular driving range. Daily midday-11 pm. 30 yuan for a bucket of balls. Building 11, 2 Fangxingyuan Xiaoqu, Fangzhuang, Fengtai District, Beijing. Phone 6760-7118. Beijing's first golf club is located near the Ming Tombs River and Reservoir. Daily 7 am-7 pm. For nonmembers, men pay 800 yuan and women pay 480 yuan on weekdays; both sexes pay 1,400 on weekends. Northwest of Ming Tombs Reservoir, Changping District, Beijing. Phone 6076-2288. This nine-hole course is one of the most conveniently located in town. It has a good driving range to keep your swing in shape. Daily 7:30 am-4:30 pm (closed in winter). 230 yuan weekdays, 290 yuan weekends. Nongzhan Nanlu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6501-8584. | Horseback Riding | Top |
There are several places for horseback riding outside of Beijing. The most popular is the Kangxi Grasslands, about 50 mi/80 km north of the city. But Bashang, a large grasslands area 185 mi/300 km north of Beijing in Hebei province, is considered one of the finest locations. The easiest way to go is to join an organized tour group.
Located out near the Beijing Riviera villa complex, this school is popular with expatriate children. Cost is 300 yuan for 45 minutes. North of and parallel to Xiang Jiang Beilu, off Jingshun Lu, Beijing. Phone 6432-4947. Accommodations are usually Mongolian-style yurts. Take warm clothing, as temperatures are considerably lower in the grasslands than in Beijing. 270 yuan and up for a weekend trip, accommodations are 50 yuan-150 yuan otherwise. Phone 5166-8022 or 8580-5080. | Other Options | Top |
Tai chi chuan evolved from an ancient Chinese martial art known as qigong and is believed to integrate mind, body and spirit. Practitioners move through a series of continuous, rhythmic exercises, called forms, which resemble slow-moving ballet and stretching. Benefits of tai chi include reducing stress, promoting balance and flexibility, and even easing arthritis pain.
Tai chi is gaining popularity around the world, but the best way to learn it is straight from the source.
Offers tai chi chuan lessons. Lessons in traditional sword and fan dancing also can be arranged. English translation is provided. Lessons offered Wednesday-Friday 7-8 pm. 50 yuan per hour. First Floor Health Club, CTS Plaza, Sanyuanqiao, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 130-0103-9563. Offers Shaolin Kung Fu (based on Zen buddhist philosophy) and Xingyi Kung Fu (based on philosophical Taoism) lessons, as well as tai chi chuan instruction. Open Tuesday and Thursday 7:30-9 pm; Sunday 3:30-5 pm. Beijing City International School, 77 Baiziwan Nanerlu, Beijing. Phone 130-5113-8804. http://www.tianyikungfu.com. The easing of government policies, growth of creativity in the nightlife scene and an increase in the number of foreigners living in Beijing have given rise to several thriving entertainment spots. Clubs and bars of every stripe line Sanlitun Bar Street in Chaoyang District, but the area around Houhai Lake (north of the Forbidden City) is vying for Sanlitun's crown as Beijing's premier nightlife district with dozens of popular bars. The city's luxury-hotel boom is also adding classy new cocktail lounges across the city.
Karaoke bars are the nighttime activity for many Chinese. You'll find them in many hotels, as well as on every corner in the tourist areas. (They're recognizable by the letters OK or KTV in their names.) Be warned: Some karaoke bars charge outrageous prices and have been known to rough up customers who refuse to pay their expensive bills; others are fronts for brothels. If you want to try a karaoke bar, go to one in a hotel. It will be expensive, but at least you'll know what you're getting into.
Beijing's clubgoers are a fickle bunch, and venues quickly fall in and out of favor. Also, the turnover rate is extremely high, as many venues in the older hutong areas are demolished and forced to reopen elsewhere. The capital has also seen the arrival of the super-club—giant dance venues that attract international DJs such as Carl Cox, Paul Oakenfold and Paul van Dyk. The current hot spots for dancing are Tango, Mix and Babyface, which are all located near Workers' Stadium, and long-standing favorite Vics, White Rabbit, Yugong Yishan and Mao Livehouse.
You can enjoy a traditional form of entertainment at the Lao She Teahouse (Lao She Cha Guan), where you sit among photos of Henry Kissinger and other world leaders who have stopped in for green tea and a show.
The hours at Beijing nightspots vary. Bars and live-music venues in the Sanlitun and Houhai areas generally close around 2 am. Most clubs and discos stay open all night, depending on their popularity. | Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
Minimalist meets antique kitsch in this hip spot nestled in the hutongs (alleys) behind Gulou (the Drum Tower). Serves a selection of tapas and mixed drinks amidst loungelike surroundings. Daily 4 pm-1 am. 17 Zhangwang Hutong (off of Jiu Gulou jie), Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 8400-1554. Owned by owner of Bed, this small courtyard bar is fantastic in the summer, although it's a treat any time of year. It serves nouvelle Malaysian cuisine for the hungry—the thirsty should try a bucket of the house mojitos. Daily from noon until the last customer leaves. 43 Doufu You Hutong, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6400-4875. The hotel bar that transcends hotel bars—Centro, in the lobby of the Kerry Center Hotel—is enormously popular among the martini-and-cigar set. Daily 24 hours. Kerry Center Hotel, 1 Guanghua Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6561-8833, ext. 42. Now an upscale bar located in the Shangri-La Hotel, this bar is popular with movers and shakers as well as cocktail fans. Daily 8 am-2 am. Shangri-La Hotel Beijing, 29 Zizhuyuan Lu (north of Poachers in the white building), Haidian District, Beijing. Phone 6841-2211, ext. 2723. Southeast Asian artwork, hardwood furniture and an elegant bamboo-garden entrance are the eyecatching first impressions of this spacey, slick and stylish bar and restaurant. Having conquered Shanghai, Bangkok and Jakarta, Face has redefined its familiar template in Beijing by renovating an old school on a leafy back lane. 26 Dongcaoyuan, Chaoyang District (beside the Instituto Cervantes), Beijing. Phone 6551-6788. Situated in the hip and happening Houhai area, Lotus Lane is a strip of bars beside the lake—it has a seedy side, but is fun to hang around. The prices in the strip of bars there can vary wildly and can be expensive. Daily from 6 pm. 51 Di'anmen Dajie (Shichahai, Qianhai Xiyan), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6593-6215. The bar that sparked the burgeoning Houhai nightlife scene is still arguably the best in the area. It attracts locals, expatriates and tourists who go to enjoy its prime lakeside location, soft lighting and elegant interior. Daily from noon. 3 Qianhai Dong Yan, Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6401-8541. Perfect for the granola-and-backpacker set—this place is all about Tibetan decor, travel books and backpacker bulletin boards. Decent pasta, reasonably priced beer and a diverse, down-to-earth crowd. Daily from 9:30 am. 108 Nanluogu Xiang, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 8403-8004. Attached to a popular youth hostel, Poachers is a Beijing old-timer that attracts a steady crowd of itinerant, hormonally driven youngsters and out-of-towners. Enjoy the cheap beer and peppy hip-hop music blasting from the speakers. Daily from 8 pm. Usually has a cover charge on weekends. 43 Bei Sanlitun Lu (next to the Poachers Youth Hostel west of Sanlitun Bar Street), Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6417-2632, ext. 8506. | Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
Originally a Guangzhou concept, Babyface has been transplanted all over China. Big, well-designed club with top-class DJs and a smooth, professional feel. There is a second Beijing location at Triumph Plaza (A143 Xizhimenwai Dajie, Xicheng District, phone 8801-6848). 6 Gongti Xilu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6551-9081. http://www.babyface.com.cn. Combines an intimate bar over two rooms with a steaming dance floor, DJs every night, and a fabulous terrace for those warm Beijing summer nights. Sunday-Thursday 4 pm-2 am, Friday and Saturday 4 pm-4 am. 4/F Tongli Studio, Sanlitun Beilu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6417-4124. Salsa the night away at Beijing's most popular Latin dance club. It has been relocated, like so many Beijing clubs, but is still drawing a mixed crowd of white-collar locals and expats of all extractions to its new venue. Tuesday-Sunday from 8 pm. A12 Nan Xin Cang Historical Complex, Dong Si Shi Tiao 22, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6409-6997. http://www.latinosclubchina.com. Freshly renovated, this perennially packed, smoke-filled club features booty-shaking, sweat-makin' hip-hop. The younger set loves it. Daily from 8 pm. North gate of Workers' Stadium, Beijing. Phone 6530-2889. Obnoxiously large club at the south gate of Ditan Park operated by the same people behind Cloud Nine Bar. Smoke-and-mirrors dance floor downstairs and large live-music venue upstairs. Daily 24 hours. South Gate of Ditan Park (next to Jindingxuan restaurant), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6428-2288. The arch-nemesis of Mix sits right across from it in the Workers' Stadium parking lot. Plays a blend of booty-shaking hip-hop and R&B to a consistent crowd of youngsters, students and twentysomethings. Nightly 8:30 until late. North gate of Workers' Stadium, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 5293-0333. This two-floor venue on "Lucky Street" is a serious clubber's club, with stylized electronica and all the tangy techno stuff that keeps hipsters happy. It imports eclectic DJs from around the world, avoiding the big-name superstars and instead concentrating on specialist remixers and proven experimentlaists. C2 Haoyunjie Jie, 29 Zaoying Lu, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 13-2112-3678. The quintessential Beijing meat market, where hormonally charged yuppies of all backgrounds mingle amidst faux-antique furniture, loud music and Long Island iced teas. Daily from 7 pm. Chaoyang Park West Gate, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6500-3377. Tucked away opposite the north gate of Workers' Stadium, this popular venue hosts everything from turntabling DJs to live improv to melodic, countrified jazz-rock. West Courtyard, 3-2 Zhangzizhong Lu (former site of Duan Qirui Government), Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6404-2711. This self-styled "Chinese Rocklive Garden" is on top of its game as Beijing's leading live venue, the touchstone of China's contemporary rock scene. Its clever logo restyles the Chairman's infamous hairline. Mao Livehouse, 111 Gulou Dong Dajie, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6402-5080. http://www.maolive.com. The Chaoyang location of this Beijing institution still has the same lineup of live music: death metal, hip-hop, indie rock and beyond. It still brews its own beer as well. Daily 11 am-2 am. A1 Xingba Lu, Nuren Jie, Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 8448-3335. | Other Options | Top |
Traditional Chinese comedy ( xiangsheng) and songs may not appeal to those who don't speak the language, but many world leaders and dignitaries have visited this teahouse and have had their picture taken with the grinning manager. Shows nightly at 7:50 and 9:20. 40 yuan-130 yuan, including a bottomless cup of tea and snacks. 3 Qianmen Xidajie, Chongwen District, Beijing. Phone 6303-6830. Features a variety of Beijing-style cabaret acts, such as singing, magic, fire-eating and a comic dialogue called cross talking. Shows Tuesday-Sunday 7-9 pm. 180 yuan for table and snacks, 330 yuan for table and duck dinner. 113 Tianqiao Market, Xuanwu District, Beijing. Phone 6304-0617. | Performing Arts | Top  |
Beijing's arts offerings are impressive—and can be seen year-round. Many artists have begun traveling overseas, lending an increasingly cosmopolitan sophistication to the performing arts. The Beijing Oriental Song and Dance Ensemble is a particularly noteworthy offering, as is Beijing opera.
Formed in 1995 by Jing Xin, a former PLA officer, the troupe organizes annual modern dance festivals and allows visitors to watch their daily rehearsals. 20 yuan. 8 Majiapu Dongli, Fengtai District, Beijing. Phone 6757-3879. Performances are usually at the Theater of the Beijing Exhibition Hall. Ticket prices vary. 135 Xiwai St., Xicheng District, Beijing. Phone 6831-6677. This company performs at the International Theater of Poly Plaza. Dongsi Shitiao Overpass, Dongcheng District, Beijing. Phone 6506-5345. Performances are at the Theater of the Beijing Exhibition Hall or the Nationalities Theater. Tickets run 60 yuan-180 yuan. Xicheng District. Phone 6403-3439. This orchestra performs—frequently with guest artists—at the Beijing Concert Hall. Ticket prices vary. 1 Ba Keyang Shu, Shuangjing Chaoyang District, Beijing. Phone 6605-5812 (Beijing Concert Hall). http://www.bjso.cn. China's best symphony orchestra, which performs at the Beijing Concert Hall, frequently features guest artists. Tickets 30 yuan-120 yuan. Phone 6605-5812. http://www.cnso.com.cn/E_cnso/Cnso.htm. Beijing opera, which got its start about 200 years ago during the Qing dynasty, is enjoying a revival today. In the early days of the opera, performances were in open-air markets and other public areas, so the actors developed a loud, piercing sound to be heard over the noise of the crowds. Garish costumes helped them stand out on dim stages.
Beijing opera is considered to be the best of many forms in China. A subset of Chinese opera, Beijing opera is unlike, for example, Madame Butterfly: It's a combination of song, dance, acrobatics and other crowd-pleasing stunts. The music is less important than the visual impact. In fact, most people chat (sometimes loudly) throughout the performance.
Most hotels in Beijing will arrange for tickets. Ticket prices vary and often include Chinese tea and sweets served at tables near the stage.
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