Destination Guidebook for Buenos Aires, Argentina
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Upon arrival in Buenos Aires, many visitors make a beeline for Plaza Dorrego in the San Telmo neighborhood of colonial and tango fame, whether or not the Sunday flea market is in progress. Many put the Recoleta Cemetery high on their list of things to see: You can pay your respects to Evita if you look for the tomb marked Familia Duarte.
As you take in the city's displays of civic grandeur, absolutely do not miss the Teatro Colon, portions of which are open in spite of ongoing renovation (scheduled to be completed in 2010). Although you won't be able to watch a performance or take a guided tour of its labyrinthine interior until then, the ticket office is open and the view of the building from anywhere on the Avenida Villamonte is stunning.
Make time to see the delightful greenery in the Parque Tres de Febrero (in Palermo), which houses many Japanese gardens, a rose garden, art museums, a lake with paddleboats, a horse track and more.
Those drawn to the water should stroll around the Puerto Madero area, which harbors a yacht club, expensive restaurants, two museum ships, several hotels, offices, movie theaters and a university campus. Or, for a less upper-crusty look at the water, head to the old port neighborhood of La Boca, Buenos Aires' colorful version of Little Italy.
Those who happen to be in Buenos Aires on a Sunday should take a car service or bus to the Mataderos Fair to watch folk dancing and the gaucho displays. There's plenty to eat: Try some empanadas or the hearty meat-and-corn stew.
Museum enthusiasts won't want to miss the National History Museum, though it steers clear of controversial events since the 1970s, or the Isaac Fernandez Blanco Museum of Spanish-American Art, a replica of a Peruvian colonial mansion, complete with gardens. Palermo's Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires (MALBA) is definitely worth a visit.
For those wanting to take in some classical art, Recoleta's National Fine Arts Museum is the destination of choice. Palermo's Sivori Museum exhibits more contemporary works. The country's cultural heritage is explored at the Jose Hernandez Museum of Popular Argentine Motifs. La Boca's Museo de la Pasion Boquense traces the history of Boca Juniors, soccer player Diego Maradona's old club, and there are two tango museums—the Museo Casa Carlos Gardel and the Museo Mundial del Tango—for fanatics of this famous Argentine dance.
Museum admission prices are a universal bargain, generally ranging from "a small donation requested" to 5 pesos (P). The highest admission in the city, at El Zanjon, is only 20 P, including a one-hour guided tour in English. | Historic Sites | Top  |
Named for the day in 1816 that Argentina declared independence from Spain, this main north-south thoroughfare is 460 ft/140 m wide and lays claim to being the widest boulevard in the world. It is now more pedestrian-friendly, although one can cross underground near the landmark Obelisk, as well. This 18th-century church is considered one of the best-preserved examples of Argentine colonial architecture. Its ornate silver altar, tile work and chapels deserve more than a quick look, and don't miss seeing the skulls and bones at the entryway—they're the remains of some of the area's early inhabitants. See it in conjunction with the Recoleta Cemetery, which is right next door. Its former monastery is now the Recoleta Cultural Center and the Buenos Aires Design Center. Daily 8am-10pm. Junin 1904, Recoleta, Buenos Aires. Phone 4803-6793. http://www.basilicadelpilar.org.ar. Dating from the mid-18th century, this building was the place where, on 25 May 1810, locals capitalized on the Spanish crown's political woes in Europe and launched the independence movement. The structure's left and right wings were demolished to make way for the Avenida de Mayo in 1889 and Diagonal Sur (Avenida Julio Roca) in 1931. The building now houses a museum guarded by sentinels in period uniforms. A crafts fair is held in its courtyard Thursday and Friday noon-5 pm. Museum open Tuesday-Friday 10:30 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11:30 am-6 pm. 1 P admission. Bolivar 65, Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4343-4387. This cathedral facing Plaza de Mayo has been rebuilt many times during the past four centuries. It now has a neoclassical facade and an eclectic interior, in which a colonial-era altar coexists with Italian Renaissance paintings. An adjacent chapel contains the mausoleum of national hero Gen. Jose de San Martin. Open Monday-Friday 8 am-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-7:30 pm. On Plaza de Mayo (at San Martin), Buenos Aires. Phone 4345-3669. http://www.catedralbuenosaires.org.ar/. One of the most important sights in B.A., the elaborate tombs in the 19th-century Recoleta Cemetery cover 13 acres/5 hectares. They are the final resting places of illustrious founding fathers, local aristocracy and important families. The most famous resident of the cemetery is the firebrand wife of President Juan Peron, Eva Duarte de Peron, known simply as Evita. For many, a visit to her family vault (Duarte, not Peron) is a pilgrimage. The municipal tourist office offers guided tours (in Spanish) at irregular intervals. Daily 7 am-6 pm. Junin 1760, Recoleta, Buenos Aires. Phone 4804-7040. http://www.cementeriorecoleta.com.ar/. Strictly speaking, this place is not a museum, but when real-estate developers started excavating this San Telmo property, they had to call in an archaeologist to organize and restore all the colonial and postcolonial artifacts and structures they found—including brick tunnels that once channeled a tributary of the Rio de la Plata. Guided tours include the nearby Casa Minima, a famous colonial "sausage house" that's barely 7 ft/2 m wide. Daily 10 am-6 pm. 20 P. Defensa 755, San Telmo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4361-3002. This beautiful colonial parish church belonged to the Jesuits until they were expelled from Argentina in 1767. It faces the neocolonial Guillermo Rawson school. Open Sunday 4-6:30 pm. Humberto Primo 340 (between Balcarce and Defensa), San Telmo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4361-1168. http://iglesiasantelmo.galeon.com/. This church's altar (carved from a single block of white marble) and huge organ (one of the country's largest and oldest) are worth a look. Note the bullet marks on one of the belfries—it was fired on by incensed locals in 1807 when English troops who had invaded the city occupied the building and flew the Union Jack there. English flags captured during various battles, along with artifacts, are on display inside the church. Open Monday-Friday 9:30 am-1:30 pm and 3-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday for Mass. At Avenida Defensa 422, Monserrat (a few blocks south of Plaza de Mayo), Buenos Aires. Phone 4331-1668. http://www.curiosamonserrat.com.ar/iglesia/domingo.html. Built on the site of the city's first permanent fort, this eclectic Italianate building is the seat of national government. It has been pink since 1873, when (as some historians claim) President Domingo F. Sarmiento decided that would be the best way to pacify two warring political factions, whose colors were white and red. The current paint job is an attempt to re-create its original shade of pink. Free guided tours of the museum (where you can see some personal belongings of past presidents, as well as some of their carriages and excavated portions of the original fort) are given throughout the day, and tours of the actual Casa (where government functions are carried out) are given in the late afternoon. The museum is open Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm and Sunday 2-6 pm. Free. Hipolito Yrigoyen 219, Plaza de Mayo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4344-3802. http://www.casarosada.gov.ar/index.php?lang=en. Considered a symbol of Buenos Aires, this monument was erected in 1936 to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the city's first (albeit not permanent) founding. It stands 220 ft/67 m high, making it a useful landmark when navigating the city. Plaza de la Republica (at the intersection of Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenida Corrientes), Buenos Aires. Begun in 1888 and opened in 1906, the Italianate Congress building has a towering copper dome that is illuminated at night. Both the upper-house Senate and the lower-house Chamber of Deputies are open for guided tours. Guided tours, in Spanish or English, of both the Senate and Chamber of Deputies take place on Monday, Tuesday and Friday at 11 am and 4 pm. Bring a photo ID or passport. Enter at Avenida Rivadavia 1864. Western end of Avenida de Mayo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4010-3000. http://www.congreso.gov.ar. This plaza is a little less grand than you might envision, though the monumental obelisk and soaring palms are attractive. The lack of shade means it's not really a place for relaxed people-watching. You're more likely to set foot there on your way to see one of the sites bordering the square: the Cabildo (first city council building), Catedral Metropolitana and the Casa Rosada (the presidential palace). The plaza has been the site of many political demonstrations (see it in the morning, when there's less chance of running into a gathering), as well as public addresses by presidents and other leaders. Straddling the Microcentro and the barrio of Monserrat, Buenos Aires. Opened in 1908 and modelled on Milan's La Scala, this is the architectural and cultural heart of Buenos Aires. Since the beginning of the 20th century, opera stars have sung on the stage of the Colon, considered one of the world's top opera houses for its natural acoustics and infrastructure. Seats 2,400 people. The authorities had hoped to re-open this most famous of all theaters in Latin America in May 2008, to celebrate the building's centenary. Unfortunately, this landmark remains closed through 2010 for renovations and remodeling, and with it, the guided tours and any other public access. Ticket office (for shows temporarily held elsewhere) is open from 9 am to 5 pm. 5 P. Avenida Viamonte 1168, Buenos Aires. Phone 4378-7132 for information. Phone 4378-7100 for tickets. http://www.teatrocolon.org.ar. Presented to the city by British residents in 1916, this clock tower stands 195 ft/60 m tall and offers some of the finest panoramas of downtown. The square where it stands was renamed Plaza de la Fuerza Aerea (Air Force Square) in the wake of the Falkland Islands War, but the new names given to the tower (Torre Monumental and Torre del Reloj) haven't stuck—Englishmen's Tower it remains. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm. Call during the week to make reservations for the tour. Plaza de la Fuerza Aerea, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4311-0186. The former home of the legendary baritone Carlos Gardel has been turned into a shrine. Posters, vinyl records, song sheets and old black-and-white photos of this waggish national hero decorate the walls of the small house he shared with his mother. Open Monday and Wednesday-Friday 11 am-6 pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 10 am-7 pm. 3 P. Calle Jean Jaures 735, Abasto, Buenos Aires. Phone 4964-2071. http://www.museos.buenosaires.gov.ar/gardelhistor.htm. It's worth a trip to the outlying barrio of Belgrano to see this elegant mansion, built and owned by an Argentine novelist who admired Spanish culture. It is packed with grand old furniture and his collections of Renaissance and modern Spanish art. The Andalusian gardens out back are draped with climbing plants, and a native ombu tree stands at the center. Open Monday and Wednesday-Friday, 2-8 pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 10 am-1 pm and 3-8 pm. Guided tours on weekends at 4 and 6 pm. Guided tours available during the week by reservation only. 3 P, free on Thursday. Avenida Juramento 2291 (go north on the metro D line), Belgrano, Buenos Aires. Phone 4783-2640. http://www.museos.buenosaires.gov.ar/larreta.htm. This world-class museum in the Palermo neighborhood is home to the renowned collection of Eduardo Costantini. Works by Latin American artists are the focus: Some are better known than others, but all are interesting. The top floor hosts traveling international modern art exhibits. The building itself is airy and filled with natural light, which makes viewing the art a pleasure. The adjoining cafe is popular. Open daily except Tuesday noon-8 pm, Wednesday till 9 pm. 7 P, free on Wednesday. Figueroa Alcorta 3415 (between Salguero and San Martin de Tours), Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4808-6500. http://www.malba.org.ar. This museum specializes in Argentine art. It mounts exhibits dedicated to contemporary visual arts, and its extensive permanent collection concentrates on works from the 19th and 20th centuries. Open Tuesday-Friday noon-8 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-6 pm. 1 P, free on Wednesday. Infanta Isabel 555, Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4774-9452. http://www.museosivori.org.ar. The City Museum's exhibits showcase Buenos Aires' architectural heritage and document the everyday life of its inhabitants throughout history. The museum itself is at the top of a narrow marble staircase in a late-19th-century building. The display windows of the well-preserved La Estrella pharmacy on the building's ground floor serve as a sort of permanent exhibit, as well. Open Monday-Friday 11 am-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 3-7 pm. 3 P, free on Monday and Wednesday. Defensa 219, Monserrat, Buenos Aires. Phone 4343-2123. http://www.museos.buenosaires.gov.ar/ciudad.htm. This ode to immigrants is housed in the original arrival building and documents the 1880-1930 influx of Europeans with artifacts, photos and a film—all in Spanish only. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm, Saturday and Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Closed on holidays. 1 P suggested donation. On Antardida Argentina 1335, at the north end of Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires. Phone 4317-0285. http://www.mininterior.gov.ar/migraciones/museo. You'll see a century of shirts, programs, posters and other ephemera bearing the badge of Boca Juniors, Buenos Aires' most famous working-class soccer club. One room is a 360-degree panorama of fans, giving you the feeling of being there without the fear of getting crushed in the crowd. The tour includes a visit to the "candy box" stadium next door, after which you can pick up any number of souvenirs, from mugs and towels to Boca deodorant. Renowned soccer player Diego Maradona honed his skills there, and his face is on almost everything. Daily 10 am-6 pm; guided tours hourly 11 am-5 pm, including English. 12.9 P. Brandsen 805, La Boca, Buenos Aires. Phone 4362-1100. http://www.museoboquense.com. The most comprehensive collection of folk art and gaucho (cowboy) silverwork in Argentina can be seen at the Jose Hernandez Museum of Popular Argentine Motifs. A reproduction of a 19th-century pulperia (country general store and bar) awaits visitors in an old house that was donated in 1938. Guided tours Wednesday-Friday 1-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-8 pm. 3 P, free on Sunday. Libertador 2373, Recoleta, Buenos Aires. Phone 4803-2384. http://www.mujose.org.ar. This museum, a former mansion and the site of the second home for homeless women and children in the country, is dedicated to Eva Peron, the most controversial Argentine woman in history. Some of her personal items, film clips of her public appearances and movies, and excerpts from her speeches are on display. The building was once a shelter—established by Evita—for unwed mothers and their children. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-7 pm. 5 P. Calle Lafinur 2988, Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4807-0306. http://www.evitaperon.org/eva_peron_museum.htm. Located in a colonial mansion in the Parque Lezama, the National History Museum's collection of documents, paintings and weapons gives in-depth insight into Argentine history until 1930. Be sure to see the paintings of the founding of the city and the magnificent silverwork of the colonial period. Open Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-6 pm. 2 P. Defensa 1600, San Telmo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4307-1182. http://www.cultura.gov.ar/direcciones/?info=organismo&id=14&idd=5. This museum preserves the history of the genesis, evolution, boom years (1910-30) and decline of Buenos Aires' best-known export. The fantastic collection includes old tango scores garnered from the National Academy of Tango (which also is housed in this building), as well as funyi (fedora-style) hats, old suits, shoes and other paraphernalia. Open Monday-Friday 2-8 pm. 3 P. Avenida Rivadavia 830, First Floor, Monserrat, Buenos Aires. Phone 4345-6968. http://www.anacdeltango.org.ar/museo.asp. If you love all things Spanish, this is your museum. The Museum of Spanish-American Art holds Cuzco-school colonial paintings, furniture and the most important colonial silverwork collection in South America. It is housed in the Peruvian-style neocolonial mansion that once belonged to socialite and collector Isaac Fernandez Blanco. A brief rest in the traditional Spanish garden is an important part of the experience. Open Tuesday-Sunday 2-7 pm. Guided tours available by reservation, call on the morning of your visit. 1 P, free on Thursday. Suipacha 1422, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4327-0272. http://museos.buenosaires.gov.ar/mifb.htm. Baroque furniture and tapestries, Chinese porcelain, and paintings from the Renaissance, Spanish mannerist and French impressionist schools are on display at the National Museum of Decorative Art. See the decorations wealthy landholders chose for their town houses at the turn of the 20th century. Open year-round Tuesday-Saturday 2-7 pm and on Sunday 2-7 pm March-December. Closed the last week of December and first week of January. 2 P. Ave. Libertador 1902, Recoleta, Buenos Aires. Phone 4801-8248. http://www.mnad.org.ar. The National Fine Arts Museum is considered Argentina's most important art museum, with an 11,000-piece permanent collection of pre-20th-century paintings and sculptures, including many European masters. It periodically exhibits works by contemporary artists. Open Tuesday-Friday 12:30-7:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9:30 am-7:30 pm. Guided tours Tuesday-Friday at 4 and 6 pm, Saturday and Sunday at 5 and 6 pm. Free. Libertador 1473, Recoleta, Buenos Aires. Phone 4803-0802. http://www.mnba.org.ar. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
Although there are other, smaller parks in town, the area alternately referred to as Parque Tres de Febrero, Parque de Palermo and Bosques de Palermo is an enormous complex of parks and green spaces in the Palermo neighborhood. It's a gem within the city. Look for the distinctive native ombu and gomero trees, the jacarandas with their purple flowers, and the cherry trees from Japan. From the central Plaza Intendente Seeber, you can easily reach the Rosedal (rose garden), the Japanese garden and, to the south, the zoo and botanical gardens. The area is abuzz with activity, especially on weekends.
This garden contains several thousand plant varieties, arranged by continent. Three-quarters of the space is devoted to Argentine plants. Three greenhouses are used for tropical plants, one for cacti. It's a great place to stroll or relax on a bench with a book, as long as you aren't allergic to cats—an incredible number of feral cats call the garden home. Daily 8 am-7 pm. Free. Avenida Santa Fe 3951, Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4831-4527. http://www.buenosaires.gov.ar/areas/med_ambiente/botanico/?menu_id=11360. Feed the fish from arched bridges, savor sushi, tea and cakes in the restaurant and tearoom, or visit the plant nursery. On weekends and holidays there are free guided tours at 3 pm. Daily 10 am-6 pm. 3 P adults, 1 P children ages 6-10. Avenidas Casares and Adolfo Berro, Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4804-4922. http://www.jardinjapones.com. Though run-down in parts, this handsomely designed park, the former grounds of a mansion built by Charles Ridgely Horne in the mid-19th century, is widely believed to be the site of the founding of Buenos Aires. On the park's south side is the mansion, which now houses the National History Museum; on the northern side are the imposing Russian Orthodox Church and the murky Bar Britanico cafe, where scenes for Argentine TV series are often filmed. Drummers and other musicians sometimes perform, and artisans hawk their wares. Paseo Colon and Avenida Martin Garcia, San Telmo, Buenos Aires. These rose gardens are a popular place to stroll, especially September-February, when the flowers are in bloom. You can also rent a paddleboat and take to the adjacent lake. Daily 8 am-8 pm, shorter hours in winter. The intersection of Avenida del Libertador and Sarmiento, Palermo, Buenos Aires. | Zoos & Wildlife | Top |
This zoo dates from 1892 and relatively recent privatization has brought needed modernization and improvements. Note the architectural follies: Designer Charles Thays wanted each animal to be in a space or building reminiscent of its native country, so he created pagodas, temples and towers to house them. In addition to the animal exhibits, you can visit a tropical forest and a reptile house, and watch a show of sea lions. (You'll pay extra for these three attractions unless you purchase a "passport" at admission.) Open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-dusk. 6.75 P general admission, 13.50 P for the passport. Avenidas Las Heras and Sarmiento, Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4011-9900. http://www.zoobuenosaires.com.ar. | Other Options | Top |
Day or night, the planetarium stands like a sci-fi intrusion in the Parque de Palermo. Adults may be underwhelmed, but children love it. Small exhibitions line the corridors, and one of the regular high-tech shows focuses on the Buenos Aires night sky. Shows Saturday and Sunday at 3, 4:30 and 6 pm. Avenida Sarmiento and Belisario Roldan, Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4771-6629. http://www.planetario.gov.ar. Buenos Aires offers plenty of green space to enjoy. The enormous (890-acre/360-hectare) Costanera Sur Ecological Reserve is east of the Microcentro and Puerto Madero. In good weather, it's a great place to go for bird-watching, bicycling and more.
The Costanera Norte runs alongside Jorge Newberry Airport and is more for strolling and easy cycling or fishing. It has two distinct areas—the northern reserve (http://www.argentinaviajera.com.ar/espanol/buenosaires/palcostanera.html#uba) and the southern reserve (http://www.buenostours.com/costanera-sur-ecological-reserve).
If you fancy a swim, there's a posh club just south of the domestic airport called Punta Carrasco, as well as a more family-friendly pool called Parque Norte, north of the airport. And the Parque de Palermo (http://www.argentinaviajera.com.ar/espanol/buenosaires/palermo.html), somewhat surprisingly the most-visited section of the city, is a wonderful area for a variety of activities: ride a bike, visit a planetarium (or zoo or botanical garden), go for a walk or jog, rent a boat, smell the roses or bet on the horses. It's a great place to people-watch, too.
Tennis courts are free and are everywhere in the more upscale neighborhoods and in several parks. Some hotels also have their own courts.
Several companies offer bike tours of the city, and there are several tennis clubs in town that offer day-use passes. A trip to an estancia outside the city will include horseback riding.
Buenos Aires is a bikeable city. If you're planning to be there only for a short visit and without time to learn your way around, an organized bike tour is a good way go. This outfit organizes various bike trips in and around the city ranging from a relatively quick four hours to a half-day six and a half hours. They also rent bikes for individual use. Moliere 2801, Villa Crespo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4568-4321. http://www.urbanbiking.com. This agency arranges golf outings from hotels in Buenos Aires. It picks players up and makes all the arrangements, with English-speaking liaisons. Phone 5247-4674. http://www.golfbreak.com.ar. Along the river and north of the airport, these pools open to the public in summer. Avenida Cantilo and Guiraldes, Belgrano, Buenos Aires. Phone 4787-1432. Along the river near the domestic airport, the pools open to the public daily 8 am-8 pm in summer. 13 P weekdays, 22 P weekends. Avenida Costanera Norte and Avenida Sarmiento, Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4807-1010. http://www.puntacarrasco.com.ar. Going out at night—until the small hours of the next day—is a cherished porteno custom. In the beginning, there were (and still are) tango music and dance halls, then nightclubs and discos. Now, Irish pubs, cocktail lounges and theme cafes are the rage.
Nightspots are everywhere, but there are pockets of particular interest along the Costanera Norte riverside drive and in Puerto Madero, the Microcentro, Palermo and Belgrano. Palermo Viejo, which includes areas that locals call Palermo Hollywood and Soho, has a particularly good assortment of places to hang out—you can easily hop from one bar to another without having to walk very far.
Nights in Buenos Aires begin late and often end in the wee hours of the morning. Many people dine late, have a drink or coffee and then hit the clubs shortly after midnight (though 2 am is when the dance clubs really get going). Clubs don't close before 5 am (when the subway starts running again) and most close well after dawn, so you can pick up breakfast before heading home.
The gay and lesbian club scene in Buenos Aires is the most developed and open anywhere south of Miami. | Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
In an area of forgettable faux-Irish pubs serving local lager, this attractive brewpub is a bustling place from sundown until almost sunrise. The interesting beers are made on-site in the German style, accompanied by filling takes on pub food. Open daily from 4 pm. Most major credit cards. R.M. Ortiz 1827, Recoleta, Buenos Aires. Phone 4808-9061. http://www.bullerpub.com/. The dean of Buenos Aires' pubs, Down Town Matias was serving happy-hour beers long before they became fashionable. Dark wood is everywhere, and a downstairs room hosts parties and private dinners with Celtic music. Open Monday-Saturday from 9 am. Most major credit cards. San Martin 979, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4312-9844. http://www.matiaspub.com.ar. During the week, many patrons walk over to this cozy pub for a bite to eat and more to drink after hitting The Kilkenny. Open Monday-Friday noon-1 am, Saturday from 8 pm. Reconquista 1040, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4312-3688. This slick wine, cocktail and sushi bar attracts sharply dressed patrons. Sink into the leather sofas and prepare to flirt by candlelight. Open Monday-Friday from 7:30 pm, Saturday from 8:30 pm, Sunday from 8 pm. Libertad 1161, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4811-1108. This French-themed bar is supremely popular and thus often packed beginning at 1:30 am (B.A.'s time to go out), sometimes with a long waiting line outside. Still, it's a big bar with good drinks and definitely a place to meet and be seen. Open Monday-Friday from 6 pm, Saturday from 8 pm. 25 de Mayo 722, Buenos Aires. Phone 4312-8275. The mansion setting is grand and gorgeous, and the garden out back, reached by palatial staircases, is a memorable place to quaff cocktails or imported beers. Take it easy on the serene terraces or mix it up at the hyperactive bars. Open Monday-Friday from 5:30 pm, Saturday and Sunday from 7:30 pm. Parana 1048, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4815-9925. http://www.milion.com.ar/eng/index.html. This low-key bar has friendly bartenders, cool art on the walls and no pretension. If you're in the Palermo neighborhood, this local watering hole is an inviting option, although the music can be loud. Daily till 2 am, later on Friday and Saturday. Guatemala 4802, Palermo Soho, Buenos Aires. Phone 4773-1967. http://www.mundobizarrobar.com. Big, noisy and comfortable, this popular pub serves good beer and food and really seems Irish, with live Celtic music and Guinness on tap. Daily until 5 am. Marcelo T. De Alvear 399, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4312-7291. | Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
Cover charges for clubs vary according to the night, the DJ and the clientele. Expect to be charged roughly 15 P-30 P. This hip dockside meeting place serves a mixed bag of 20- to 45-year-old suits and suave types, who go for sushi and salsa. There's also tribal house and edgier rhythms on selected nights. Restaurant open all day, but club operates 1-5 am. Cover 10 P-15 P. Pierina Dealesi 750, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires. Phone 4894-1328. http://www.asiadecuba.com.ar. The now-dying art of tango dancing has long been a large part of Buenos Aires' fame, and this is where you can experience one of the last of the old-style tango clubs. Tables circle a dance floor where common portenos, as Buenos Aires folk are called, dance tango in high style. Open for dancing Friday-Sunday from 9 pm. Tango classes daily 6-10 pm. La Rioja 1180, Boedo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4957-7157. This is a good San Telmo dance spot, situated in a converted warehouse designed by Gustave Eiffel (of Eiffel Tower fame) himself. It attracts a large crowd in the age range of 20s to 40s. Open Friday and Satuday from 10 pm. Peru 532, San Telmo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4342-9235. http://www.clubmuseum.com.ar. This cocktail lounge has dancing. Open Thursday-Saturday for dinner 10 pm-1:30 am, dancing and music 1:30-6 am. Cover charge 12 P, includes first drink. M.T. de Alvear 1540, Barrio Norte, Buenos Aires. Phone 4811-4730. http://www.living.com.ar. Rising like a miniature Sydney Opera House in Puerto Madero, this tri-level dance club—possibly the largest in the city—packs them in on Wednesday starting at sundown for the city's biggest after-work party. Thursday-Sunday nights kick in much later, about 2 am. Cover varies, women free on some nights. Cecilia Grierson 225, Puerto Madero, Buenos Aires. Phone 4315-8666. | Other Options | Top |
The city's most venerated cafe also puts on intimate shows and concerts in the evening. Tango concerts twice nightly. Jazz Saturday 11:15 pm. Daily 7 am-2 am. Reservations required at least one day in advance. Tango 30 P, plus 7 P-12 P per drink. Jazz 20 P. De Mayo 829 (west of Plaza de Mayo), Buenos Aires. Phone 4342-4328. http://www.cafetortoni.com.ar. One of many well-known tango cafes in the San Telmo neighborhood, this one is notable for its reasonable restaurant prices and shows in the afternoon and early evening. It is especially popular during the Plaza Dorrego Sunday market, with shows running continuously between 1 and 7 pm. Humberto 461, San Telmo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4362-2354. Although there are certainly better values in town, some consider this the classiest place in Buenos Aires to see a tango dinner show for the rhythm and quality of its show, fanciful decoration, food and service. It's a museum as well as a glitzy cabaret venue, but the dancing is high quality. It is fascinating to see how dancers cope with the tricky signature tunes of Astor Piazzolla, the great innovator of tango from 1960 to his death in 1992. Shows Monday-Saturday at 10:15 pm. 140 P-250 P for show; 200 P-380 P for dinner and show. Florida 165, Microcentro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4344-8200. http://www.piazzollatango.com. | Performing Arts | Top  |
Buenos Aires has always been a hotbed for the performing arts. Theater, ballet, opera and classical music all have strong presences there, and several new opera groups and choirs have sprung up in a city that has long idolized opera singers.
The epicenter of opera, classical music and dance is normally the traditional Teatro Colon (currently closed for renovations until sometime in 2010); for contemporary expression it's the Teatro General San Martin. Other well-known venues include the Teatro Avenida and the Teatro Coliseo.
Some of the most popular theater groups are comedians: The long-running Les Luthiers are well loved. Also look out for concerts by tango singer Adriana Varela, bandoneon (accordion) player and composer Julio Pane, and La Camorra, a tango quintet.
Buenos Aires also has a lively rock scene, whose main icon is the talented Charly Garcia. One of the most respected folk-rock stylists is Leon Gieco. This modern-dance company is housed in the Teatro San Martin. It has no set season but performs multiple programs each year. Tickets generally cost 10 P-15 P. Ave. Corrientes 1530, Buenos Aires. Phone 4371-0111. Toll-free 0800-333-5254. http://www.teatrosanmartin.com.ar/ballet. This classical-ballet company performed regularly at the Teatro Colon, which is now undergoing renovations that will keep it closed until at least 2010. In the meantime, this well-known troupe performs at the Teatro Coliseo on Avenida Marcelo T. de Alvear 1125, or occasionally at either the Auditorio de Belgrano on Avenida Virrey Loreto 2348 or the Teatro Ópera on Avenida Corrientes 860. The ticket office at the Teatro Colon is still open, however. Avenida Libertad 621, Buenos Aires. Phone 4378-7344. Toll-free 0800-333-2656. On Wednesday, the San Martin Cultural Center offers free folkloric shows with dances from different regions of Argentina. Performances on other nights are often only 1 P-3 P. These are some of the most interesting shows around, and often represent a now-dying tradition, preserved—ironically—here in the city, rather than in the rural regions in which it originated. Sarmiento 1551, Buenos Aires. Phone 4374-1252. http://www.ccgsm.gov.ar. Located behind its namesake restaurant, this is one of the best venues for folk, new groove and jazz music, touring Latin and Cuban artists, and occasional tango concerts. Balcarce 460, Monserrat, Buenos Aires. Phone 4342-7650. http://www.latrastienda.com/. In a short time, this renovated 1930s theater has become the top place to see big names in popular music, in cozy surroundings with excellent sound. Shows on most nights, but most frequently Friday-Sunday. Paraguay 918, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4328-2888. http://www.ndateneo.com.ar. A big, classic spot to hear mostly emerging rock bands, but also jazz, reggae and other music genres. They also offer dinner, and after the live shows, dancing to funk, pop or electronic music till dawn. Open Wednesday-Saturday from 9 pm. Niceto Vega 5510, Palermo, Buenos Aires. Phone 4779-9396. http://www.nicetoclub.com. This is one of the Teatro Colon's three orchestras. It accompanies ballets and gives classical-music concerts, which generally cost about 30 P. Because of renovations at the Teatro Colon, the orchestra has moved to the Teatro Coliseo, until sometime in 2010. Libertad 621, Tribunales, Buenos Aires. Phone 4378-7100. Toll-free 0800-333-2656. http://colon.is.com.ar. This one-of-a-kind, nonprofessional but remarkably sophisticated barrio-based theater group's principal theme is the working-class immigrant experience. Wildly visual sets and costumes, supported by skilled musicians, let them communicate with spectators whose Spanish is limited or even nonexistent. Not to be missed. Friday and Saturday night shows, with occasional free performances in city parks. Tickets 8 P-10 P on sale at the ticket office Tuesday-Saturday 5-9 pm. Benito Perez Galdos 93, La Boca, Buenos Aires. Phone 4300-5707. http://www.catalinasur.com.ar. | Ticket Brokers | Top |
Ticket broker for all the main venues, plus movie theaters. Avenida Corrientes 1382, Microcentro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4372-5058. http://www.cartelera-net.com.ar. This company sells tickets by phone or Internet for cultural performances and will deliver to hotels. Phone 4000-1010. http://www.entradaplus.com.ar. You can make theater-ticket reservations by phone or Internet, or you can pay with cash or credit card at Ticketek outlets throughout the city: Teatro Gran Rex, Ave. Corrientes 857; Lee-Chi, Santa Fe 1670; and Shopping Alto Palermo, Santa Fe 3253. Phone 5237-7200. http://www.ticketek.com.ar. Plays, music, ballet, and other shows. De Mayo 1222, Buenos Aires. Phone 4384-5680. http://www.balirica.org.ar/2006/teatro/e_teatro.htm. Some of the best concerts in Buenos Aires are played at this venue. It's also playing host to the regular Teatro Colon ballets and concerts till 2010 because of ongoing renovations at the Colon. Marcelo T. de Alvear 1125, Retiro, Buenos Aires. Phone 4816-5943. Currently undergoing extensive renovations that will last until some time in 2010, it otherwise hosts national and international performers and has its own ballet, choir, opera and three orchestras. Tickets sold at ticket office Monday-Saturday 9 am-8:30 pm, Sunday 10 am-5 pm. Libertad 621, Buenos Aires. Phone 4378-7344 for information. Phone 4378-7315 for tickets. http://www.teatrocolon.org.ar. | Spectator Sports | Top |
Soccer is the all-consuming national passion. Monumental Stadium is one of the largest in the world and is a mecca to some visitors. Buenos Aires is home to some of the best national teams, including the Boca Juniors, Independiente and River Plate. Tickets are sold at the stadiums, and the main season runs March-November.
Basketball is gaining popularity, especially since the national team won the 2004 Olympic gold medal in Athens.
Although it may not have the mass appeal of soccer, polo is big in Buenos Aires, and the Argentines are generally acknowledged to be the best players on the planet. The Palermo polo grounds are known as the "Cathedral of Polo." The world's best polo players compete there in the Argentine Open, played between late November and early December, but you can catch the sport at other times of the year as well. For information, contact the Argentina Polo Association.
Driving ranges and horse races can also be found within the city limits and in the northern suburbs.
Rugby Union is very popular, too, and there are regular matches in San Isidro and occasional international tournaments at the Ferro stadium. | Horse Racing | Top |
A popular race course all y | | |