Cairo's most popular tourist sights are the monuments and relics of Egypt's pharaonic past. The prime attraction in the city itself is the Egyptian Museum—it's so full of ancient artifacts that it's almost bursting at the seams. The big draws of the collection are the contents of Tutankhamen's (King Tut's) tomb and a dozen royal mummies displayed in oxygen-free cases. The museum has too much for you to absorb in one visit—we recommend you spend two half-days there.
The most famous ancient Egyptian monuments—the pyramids and the Sphinx—are not in Cairo proper, but in the suburb of Giza (although most photos make it appear that the structures are out in the desert, they're actually at the edge of town). Plan a half-day at the site, and be sure to go inside the 5,000-year-old Great Pyramid of Khufu (prepare yourself for crowded, claustrophobic surroundings). You can see other pyramids on a day trip to Saqqara or Dashur, which are south of Giza. The pyramids and tombs there are less frequented by tourist groups and vendors, so you can have a more peaceful visit.
Cairo also has an incomparable collection of Islamic monuments, spanning several periods and architectural styles. Take time to visit a couple of mosques—the city has dozens of them but among the most interesting ones are the Ibn Tulun, Aqsunqur ("Blue") and Sultan Hassan mosques. They're wonderful examples of Islamic art and architecture, and they help illustrate the development of the city and the importance of Islam in modern-day Egypt. You should also visit the Bab Zuwayla—the only remaining southern gate of medieval Cairo, with a small museum and wonderful views from the minarets above. The Citadel is another must-see. Perched on a hill, it has several museums and monuments and the Muhammad Ali mosque, as well as views over the city and Sufi dancing several evenings a week.
The Coptic Quarter in Old Cairo has a very different feel from the rest of the city. Some of Cairo's oldest structures are found there, including a number of elaborate churches—Al-Muallaqa (the Hanging Church) is our favorite. The Ben Ezra Synagogue is also well-worth a visit. Also be sure to see the Coptic Museum.
For a look at decorative arts, visit the Museum of Islamic Art, the Gayer-Anderson House and the Mohammed Mahmoud Khalil Museum. For a look at Egypt's royal legacy, visit the Manial Palace Museum or the Abdin Palace Museums.
| Historic Sites | Top  |
Dating to AD 970, this mosque was built by the Fatimids, the founders of Cairo. The architecture is a mix of styles that reflects different periods when the mosque was renovated. The Al Azhar mosque, with its unusual double-pointed minaret and marble courtyard, is a wonderfully tranquil place to escape from the noise and rush of the city. The university is the oldest continuously operating university in the world and one of the most prestigious theology schools in the Islamic world. Open daily, 24 hours a day. No visitors are admitted during prayers. Free. Al Azhar Street, near Khan el-Khalili (Islamic Cairo), Cairo.
The Hanging Church gets its name from the fact that its floor was originally built across a gate of an ancient Roman fortress. The church contains a 10th-century icon of the Virgin and Child and an 11th-century pulpit constructed of 13 slender pillars, representing Christ and his apostles (the black pillar is said to represent Judas Iscariot). There are tour guides on-site who do not accept money in exchange for their tours, but instead suggest any tips be given as a donation to the church. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Free. Near the Mar Girgis Metro station (Old Cairo), Cairo.
Called the Blue Mosque, its interior is decorated with flowers and other plant designs in blue and turquoise Isnik-style tiles. The
minbar (pulpit) is especially beautiful: It's the oldest marble pulpit in Cairo, and it's inlaid with precious stones. Daily 9 am till one hour after sunset prayer. No visitors are admitted during prayers. Free. Tibbanah Street (north of the Citadel), Cairo.
This is Egypt's oldest remaining synagogue, built on the ruins of another older synagogue thought to have been founded in the fifth century BC. It was later converted into a Coptic church, but in 1115, Rabbi Abraham ben Ezra, with the consent of the Coptic patriarch, restored the land and rebuilt the synagogue, which has since been impeccably restored. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Free. Behind the Coptic Museum (Old Cairo), Cairo.
Dedicated to St. Sergius, this church was founded at the end of the fourth century AD and rebuilt at the beginning of the 11th century. It stands over a crypt that is said to have sheltered the Holy Family during its flight from King Herod. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Free. A short walk from the Mar Girgis Metro station (Old Cairo), Cairo.
Looming majestically above Cairo is the Citadel, a medieval fortress with a complex of mosques, tombs and museums. Salah al-Din fortified the entire area during the Crusades. Under Ottoman rule, the Citadel became a city in itself and served as the seat of government for approximately 700 years. In the complex are the Mosque of Muhammad Ali, the National Military Museum, the National Police Museum, the Garden Museum, the Cairo Carriage Museum (royal carriages) and the Museum of Seized Antiquites (objects recovered from attempted thefts). Daily 9 am-4 pm. £E 40. Salah Salem Street (Islamic Cairo), Cairo. Phone 02-2512-1735.
Built AD 876-879, this is the oldest surviving mosque in Cairo. It has many Mesopotamian features because it was constructed during the Abbasid dynasty, which was centered in Baghdad. The minaret, with its spiral exterior staircase, is the only one of its kind in Egypt. Daily 9 am until one hour after sunset prayer. No visitors are admitted during prayers. Free. El-Sabilah Street (at Ahmed Ibn Tulun Square—west of the Citadel), Cairo.
This mosque and madrassa (Muslim seminary) is a Mameluke monument, built in the mid-1300s. It's considered one of the most stylistically cohesive Islamic buildings in Cairo. The entrance and staircase are especially noteworthy. For a £E 5
baksheesh (tip) to the caretaker, the truly adventurous can climb the minaret. It's a long, dark climb (be sure to take a flashlight), but the view from the top is well-worth the effort. Daily 9 am till one hour after sunset prayer. No visitors are admitted during prayers. Free. El-Qalaa Street, directly below the Citadel (Islamic Cairo), Cairo.
Also known as the Alabaster Mosque, this is an outstanding example of 19th-century Islamic architecture, with a huge Ottoman-style dome and two slender minarets. (Most of the architecture was copied from the Blue Mosque in Istanbul.) It also contains the gilt tomb of Pasha Muhammad Ali. The mosque is aesthetically controversial; its squat, heavy shape has been compared to that of a toad. But it does afford good views of the city and, on a clear day, the pyramids in Giza. Daily 9 am-4 pm. Admission is included in the Citadel entrance fee. In the Citadel complex (Islamic Cairo), Cairo.
Southwest of Cairo, on the desert plateau of Giza, are the pyramid tombs of three fourth-dynasty pharaohs: Khufu (Cheops), Khafre (Chephren) and Menkaure (Mycerinus). The Great Pyramid of Khufu, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World, was built over the course of 20 years using more than 2 million blocks of stone. The second pyramid has two entrances on the northern side and seems almost as large as the Great Pyramid, mainly because it's on slightly higher ground, but its interior is less interesting. The third pyramid is the smallest but is distinguished by its red granite lower courses and its well-preserved chambers. Several underground tombs, which once contained lesser nobles, have been opened on the site as well. The climb inside is hot and tiring, and it's not recommended for people who suffer from claustrophobia. Most visitors opt to enter only one pyramid.
Mercifully, regulations have limited the number of vendors, who attempt to sell you everything from fake papyrus and fake alabaster to overpriced stone scarabs and camel rides. If you decide to rent a camel and driver to tour the area, be sure to agree on a price first (bargain until the price is £E 15-£E 20 per hour). And don't be fooled by unscrupulous camel drivers who offer free rides. It might not cost you to mount the camel, but the driver will ask for payment before you dismount. Have members of your party take turns riding camels—this reduces the likelihood that the camel owner will try some scam on you. The entrance fee for the entire pyramids complex is £E 50, which allows you unlimited exterior viewing. If you want to visit any of the interiors, you'll have to pay an additional fee (£E 30-£E 100, depending on the pyramid). Usually only one of the smaller pyramids is open at a time. Tickets to enter the Great Pyramid (£E 100) are limited, so you'll need to arrive early to get one. Two blocks of 150 tickets go on sale at 8 am and 1 pm. Because tour agencies try to get their customers to Giza in the morning, you'll have a better chance of getting inside the Great Pyramid, and staying there longer, in the afternoon.
This Greek Orthodox church is built on top of a tower that was part of the Roman fortress, which explains the church's round shape. It was built in 1909 on the foundations of a 10th-century church. The church (but not the neighboring monastery) is open to the public. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Free. Mar Girgis Street (Old Cairo), Cairo.
A short distance from the Great Pyramid is the Sphinx, originally called Horem Akhet, or "Horus, Who Is at the Horizon." This colossal figure with a human head and a lion's body, carved from one tremendous piece of limestone, guards the tomb of Khafre—in fact, the Sphinx's facial features are thought to be those of the pharaoh.
Three sound-and-light performances are held nightly at the foot of the Sphinx, in full view of the pyramids. The show, narrated by the Sphinx itself, details the history of the pyramids and features colorful illuminations. The shows are offered in various languages. The first show (generally 8:30 pm in summer, 6:30 pm in winter; times during Ramadan may vary) is generally in English, but reconfirm this before heading out there. Arrive early to get a good seat. The £E 60 admission to the pyramids area includes the Sphinx. An additional £E 60 fee is charged for the sound-and-light show. Phone 02-3385-2880.
When calling museums for information, if you would like to speak to someone who speaks English, ask, "Tet-kelem Inglizi?" If the person who answers the phone does not speak English, he or she can usually find someone who does.
The former seat of government is now used to display diplomatic gifts, military equipment and royal finery. Daily except Friday 10 am-2:30 pm. £E 20. Kasr Abdin Square (downtown), Cairo. Phone 02-2391-6909.
The oldest agricultural museum in the world, with a fascinating (albeit somewhat dusty) assortment of stuffed animals, animal mummies and dioramas of Egyptian agricultural life. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-2 pm. £E 0.10. Next to the 6th of October Bridge (adjacent to the Ministry of Agriculture), Dokki. Phone 02-2337-2933.
Recently renovated, this museum houses a large collection of Christian objects, including fine icons and textiles dating as far back as AD 300. There's also a library with 7,000 books and manuscripts. Gardens surround the building, which is decorated with mosaics. Daily 9 am-5 pm. £E 40. Mar Girgis Street (just north of the Hanging Church), Cairo. Phone 02-2362-8766. http://www.copticmuseum.gov.eg.
This is truly one of the most important museums in the world. It has the most extensive collection of ancient Egyptian artifacts anywhere—more than 100,000 relics and antiquities, arranged chronologically from Old Kingdom to Roman Empire. Among the showpieces are treasures from Tutankhamen's tomb: the famous burial mask and the young king's jewels, thrones and statues. You have to pay an extra fee to see the Royal Mummy Room, where a dozen mummies are displayed in oxygen-free cases—we think the experience is worth it. The excellent collection of Greek and Roman artifacts is also worth seeing.
Even though the collection is world-class, don't expect a slick museum with amazing lighting and careful labeling. This place is pretty dusty, and it has so much stuff in it that you can end up feeling overwhelmed. We recommend two half-days at the museum; serious Egyptophiles will want to spend several days. And to get the most out of your visit, pick up one of several guidebooks available at the gift shop near the entrance or join a tour led by an Egyptologist who can put the dizzying array of important finds in context with Egypt's long history. Daily 9 am-6:30 pm. £E 50, with an additional £E 100 fee for the Royal Mummy Room. Tahrir Square (next to the Nile Hilton, although plans are under way to relocate the museum to Giza by 2011), Cairo. Phone 02-2575-4319 or 02-2578-2448. http://www.egyptianmuseum.gov.eg.
If you have time, you may enjoy the idiosyncratic collection at this museum. British Major Gayer-Anderson renovated two old merchants' houses in the 1930s to show off his treasures: furniture, art and carpets from India, Iran, Turkey and Pakistan. Daily 8 am-noon and 1-4 pm. £E 30. Ibn Tulun Street (Islamic Cairo), Cairo. Phone 02-2364-7822.
This newly opened and architecturally striking museum features a model of the famed step pyramid of Zoser (designed by Imhotep), plus a limestone sphinx of the fifth Dynasty King Unas and various other beautifully displayed artifacts from the Saqqara area. Daily 9 am-3:30 pm. £E 50 admission to Saqqara complex, including the museum. Outside the city, Saqqara.
This early-20th-century palace, a former residence of the royal family, showcases splendid architectural details and furnishings: Turkish tiles, Moroccan wood carvings, Syrian wood inlays, and Egyptian brass and woodwork. A royal reception hall, a small mosque and a museum of hunting trophies are part of the complex. Daily 9 am-4 pm (Friday closed noon-2 pm). £E 25. 1 Al-Saray St., Manial, Cairo. Phone 02-2368-7495.
This beautiful villa contains an impressive private collection of 19th-century paintings and objets d'art. You'll see works by Van Gogh, Monet, Renoir and Gauguin hanging on the walls. The museum also has a nice garden setting. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. £E 25. 1 Kafour St., Cairo. Phone 02-2338-9720. http://www.mkhalilmuseum.gov.eg.
Houses the world's rarest and most extensive collection of Islamic art, including tapestries, pottery, carpets, inlaid metalwork, medieval weapons and armor. Port Said Street (Islamic Cairo), Cairo.
This small museum is located in tranquil grounds near the Cairo Opera House, with a high-quality collection of works by Egypt's most esteemed artists. Daily 10 am-2 pm and 4-8 pm. £E 20. Gezira Exhibition Grounds, Gezira Island, Cairo. Phone 02-2736-6667.
The 140-ft/43-m cedar boat displayed there was discovered in 1954. It was probably a funerary vessel used to carry the deceased pharaoh Khufu to the Great Pyramid; it was later buried near his final resting place. Ancient Egyptians believed it carried the pharaoh as he accompanied the sun on its daily journey through the sky. The museum houses the boat, now restored, and the rectangular pit it was buried in. Daily 9 am-3:45 pm. £E 40. On the south side of the Great Pyramid, Giza. Phone 02-3385-7928.
This tiny place—part of the larger Monastirli Palace grounds—is a showcase for photos and other memorabilia of legendary Egyptian diva Umm Kolthoum, including a library with all her recordings. Daily 10 am-5 pm. £E 5. Roda (Manial) Island, Cairo. Phone 02-2363-1537.
| Neighborhoods & Districts | Top |
Cairo's most unusual neighborhood is east of Old Cairo. It's actually a large cemetery—it looks as if it's part of the city, but the buildings are tombs. Some of the most fascinating mosques in Cairo—including the 15th-century Mosque of Qaitbey, whose elegant carvings are especially beautiful—are there, and visitors can climb some of the minarets for good views. Entrance is free, but a tip to the caretaker, if you see him, will be appreciated. It's estimated that more than 1 million people live among the tombs. The residents sometimes resent curious visitors, so if you do visit, go early in the morning and be conscious and considerate of the people around you. It's not safe to visit after dark.
This medieval quarter east of downtown is teeming with Islamic monuments from many different periods. The main centers are the Citadel and its nearby mosques (in the south) and Al-Azhar Mosque and Khan el-Khalili (in the north). Also worth seeing are three large gates that were part of the medieval wall that once surrounded the city: Bab Zuwayla (where there's also a small and interesting open-air museum and where you can climb up to the ramparts), Bab el-Futuh and Bab el-Nasr. Strolling the narrow lanes and exploring the markets is very rewarding: You'll see things tourists don't normally see, and you'll find the people very friendly. Around Muizz il-Din Street, Cairo.
This area, called Misr el-Qadima in Arabic, predates the Arab conquest of Egypt and the founding of Cairo by the Fatimids. It has a very different feel from the rest of the city, and it also has the city's oldest synagogue, church and mosque. A fortress called Babylon was built there in AD 98 by the Roman emperor Trajan. Coptic Christians later settled in the area and built churches in or near the fortress, including Al-Muallaqa (the Hanging Church) and St. George's Church. Many of the Christian monuments have been identified and refurbished recently, sparking a surge in pilgrimage and religious tourism. The Coptic Museum contains many artifacts found in the area. Around Mar Girgis Street (take the Metro to the Mar Girgis station), Cairo.
| Other Options | Top |
This is a great place for the family. Kids are both educated and entertained as they sail down man-made canals and watch actors on the shore re-create ancient Egyptian life. Both adults and kids can have their pictures taken in pharaonic costume. Daily 9 am-6 pm (closed during Ramadan). £E 185, free for children younger than 5. Jacob's Island, Sakiet Miky, Giza. Phone 02-3571-8675. http://www.touregypt.net/village.
Almost every five-star hotel in Cairo has a health club and swimming pool, and most will admit nonguests for a fee. Horseback riding near the pyramids is a popular activity, as is sailing in a felucca on the Nile. Golf is another option, though most clubs are far from downtown. Unfortunately, most parks and gardens in Cairo are to be viewed from afar, not visited: The green spaces are often fenced off to ensure that they don't get trampled. One exception is the Al-Azhar Park, next to the Citadel. Daily 10 am-10 pm. £E 7. Saleh Salem Street, Islamic Cairo.
| Boating & Sailing | Top |
Feluccas (ancient broad-sailed boats) are moored along the Nile in front of large hotels. Cruising on one provides a pleasant diversion from hectic sightseeing. (For a spectacular view, try to go around sunset.) The boats can be rented for about £E 30 per hour—but make sure you settle on a price before casting off. For something a bit more luxurious, yachts and cabin cruisers can be rented for an afternoon or an hour.
Tree-lined fairways, lakes, streams and waterfalls enhance this 18-hole, par-72 course. Caddies, carts, a driving range and club rental are available. Greens fees are £E 430 Friday and Saturday, and £E 340 Sunday-Thursday for 18 holes and use of the driving range. Ring Road, Mirage City, Cairo. Phone 02-2411-9428. http://www.marriott.com/hotels/hotel-information/golf-courses/caijw-jw-marriott-hotel-cairo.
Located 9 mi/14 km from Cairo's city center (and just 20 minutes from the airport) between the Heliopolis and Maadi districts, this club offers two desert-grass courses. The 18-hole course is par 72, and the nine-hole course is par 35. Amenities include a pro shop and golf academy. The entrance fee is £E 90 Friday and Saturday, £E 60 Sunday through Thursday; golf packages cost £E 350 Friday and Saturday, including entrance, greens and cart fees (£E 200 Sunday through Thursday). Ring Road, Cairo. Phone 02-2758-0505. http://www.katameyaheights.com.
| Horseback Riding | Top |
There are several stables near the pyramids that offer horseback riding and lessons. However, not all the stables take good care of their horses. Names and numbers change frequently, so ask your hotel for a recommendation or make arrangements through a local tour company. Most cab drivers know how to find the stables, but make sure they take you to the one you specify. No reservations are needed; just show up. You will be requested to tip the guide an additional fee—do so only for polite and helpful service.
Once a nightlife wasteland, Cairo now has a number of options. Just about every major hotel in the city has a bar and disco. Some of the best nightspots, however, are not in hotels—try the Cairo Jazz Club and After Eight. Keep in mind, too, that nightlife and food often go hand in hand in Cairo. Bars typically close 2-3 am. Discos tend to stay open an hour or two later.
| Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
A posh bar with subdued lighting. Daily from 6 pm. Corniche el-Nil (in the Semiramis InterContinental Hotel), Cairo. Phone 02-2795-7171.
After 10 pm you can barely hear your companions in this lively restaurant-bar, which is jammed most nights. Fantastic long bar, top-quality steaks. Daily from noon. 22 Taha Hussein St. (in the President Hotel, Zamalek), Cairo. Phone 02-2735-0652.
A tiny, raucous pocket pub—and a favorite haunt of Cairo's British expats and wayward diplomats. Excellent bar food, fun music. Daily from 3 pm. 1-A Sayyed el-Bakry St., Zamalek, Cairo. Phone 02-2736-0502.
A younger, more sophisticated version of Deals. Darker and more stylish than the original, with good Italian food, great bar menu and jazzy interior. Music by the DJ is a bit loud for easy conversation, but the casual, hip ambience is very comfortable. Daily from 4 pm. 2 Gol Gamal St., Mohandiseen, Giza. Phone 02-3305-7255.
This open-air terrace bar, on the roof of the Nile Hilton, is a great place to view the pyramids at sunset or gaze over Tahrir Square and the rest of Cairo. It serves snacks and dinner (provided by Rotisserie Belvedere). Sometimes closed for private parties. Very busy 4-7 pm, but later in the evening, at least during the week, it is a great spot for a quiet drink. Daily 11:30 am-12:30 am. Corniche el-Nil, Cairo. Phone 02-2578-0444.
| Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
This perennially popular club remains one of the hottest spots in town. A DJ spins international dance music and chart favorites most nights. A signboard says couples only, but it's not always enforced. Friday is Latin Night. Daily 10:30 pm-5 am. Smart dress is required. Cover £E 50 women, £E 100 men. Corniche el-Nil (in the Nile Hilton), Cairo. Phone 02-2578-0444.
A popular disco in the pyramids area. The decor is country-and-western, but little else will evoke wide-open spaces. Tuesday-Sunday 10 pm-3 am. No cover. Pyramids Road (in the Mena House Oberoi Hotel), Giza. Phone 02-3383-3222.
This popular spot for live and DJ music is also the home of the Riff Band, who may have Cairo's smoothest jazz singer, the silken Ahmed Harfoush. Good cocktails are also a draw. 8 pm-3 am nightly. £E 60–£E 90 minimum. 6 Qasr el-Nil St., Cairo. Phone 02-2574-0855.
Arabic music and belly dancing at this popular restaurant complement the delicious Lebanese specialties and the wonderful views of the Nile. Live
tahkt (a traditional Middle Eastern band) music begins at 8 pm, followed by a belly dancer around 10:30-11:30 pm. Daily noon-midnight. Galaa Square, Dokki (in the Cairo Sheraton Hotel), Giza. Phone 02-2336-9700.
Live jazz nightly in a lounge bar atmosphere. Food is inexpensive, with several vegetarian options. A mostly Egyptian clientele with a handful of foreigners. Call for a current schedule or check the Web site. Daily noon-3 am; music starts at 9 pm. Reservations recommended for special shows and on weekends (no reservations taken after 10:30 pm). 197 26th of July St. (Agouza), Cairo. Phone 02-3345-9939. http://www.cairojazzclub.com.
This 100-year-old bar, brought over piece-by-piece from Belgium, has been transformed into a great place for live music. Friday is Tango Night, and Saturday is Salsa Night. Daily from noon, with music from 8:30 pm (live music on Thursday). £E 50 minimum Thursday, £E 40 other nights. Corniche el-Nil (in the Nile Hilton), Cairo. Phone 02-2578-0444.
Another good view of Cairo, with a bar and live music thrown in. Go before sunset for daytime observation, then stay until dark to watch the city's lights twinkle. (Take along a camera.) There's often a singer with a band playing all sorts of international favorites. Tuesday-Sunday 6 pm-2 am. Live music starts at 10 pm. Minimum charge of £E 90. Corniche el-Nil (in the Ramses Hilton), Cairo. Phone 02-2577-7444.
| Performing Arts | Top  |
Cairo has a dual heritage when it comes to the arts, mixing Western-style symphony concerts and other entertainment with Middle Eastern art traditions, such as performances of Egyptian folk music and dance, and classical Arab music. Check the listings pages in the Al-Ahram Weekly newspaper for a guide to upcoming events.
Although belly dancing is considered decadent by most staunchly Muslim Egyptians, the shows remain popular with tourists and visiting Arabs. For traditional belly dancing, stick with the Semiramis InterContinental Hotel's Horoun el-Rashid nightclub, other upscale hotels or the Marriott's Nile Maxim dinner cruise. As you go from upscale hotels to smaller venues, the shows take on a Vegas-style atmosphere, with some places being thinly veiled excuses for patrons to take home a dancer of their choice.
This troupe performs a fascinating form of Sufi dance, staged by dancers often referred to as whirling dervishes. A spiritual practice, this form of dance is relatively free of touristy hustle. The color of the spinning costumes is delightful. Performances are being held at the Citadel while the troupe's usual home, Madrasa el-Ghouri, is being restored. Monday, Wednesday and Saturday at 7 pm. Free. Arrive by 6:20 pm to get a good seat. Salah Salem Highway, Cairo. Phone 02-2512-1735.
Movies in languages besides Arabic are getting easier to find as multiplex cinemas are proliferating now to serve demand from Cairo's younger, hipper, international audience. The Heliopolis/Nasr City area, near the airport, now has the 13-screen City Stars complex. Al-Manial, also called Roda Island (by foreigners, not Egyptians), has the six-screen Galaxy cinema created by celebrated Egyptian director Yousef Chahine. The Galaxy hosts the annual Cairo International Film Festival in November. Ticket prices at these cinemas run £E 20–£E 40; they can go almost twice that price at the Good News Hyatt and other theaters run by the best hotels. The cheaper downtown cinemas will set you back only £E 10, but you'll be surrounded by rude people chattering on mobile phones. Egypt has reserved seating at movie theaters, if only to create work for someone in this very poor country. It's customary to tip your usher £E 1.
The all-Arabic performances there are a good place to start for immersion into local arts. Performances generally begin at 8 pm and are advertised in the
Al-Ahram Weekly. 22 Ramses St., Cairo. Phone 02-2574-3373.
Amateur and semiprofessional theater performances, usually in English, with one major piece per semester. Midan Tahrir, Cairo. Phone 02-2797-6372.
The Friday and Sunday matinees are in Arabic, but enjoyable for children of all ages. At the edge of Azbekia Park (near Ataba metro station), Cairo. Phone 02-2268-5241. http://www.puppettheatre.net.eg.
The Egyptian National Theatre, with all performances in Arabic. Daily except Wednesday at 9 pm. Ataba Square, Cairo. Phone 02-2591-1267.
This lovely complex hosts top-class opera, dance and symphonic concerts by local and international performers year-round and special outdoor concerts during the summer as well as children's matinees. Occasionally, special opera performances are also held at the foot of the pyramids in Giza. They are well-publicized in advance and are far more expensive than Opera House productions. Gezira Island, Cairo. Phone 02-2737-0601 or 02-2739-8114. http://www.cairooperahouse.org.
The most active of Cairo's 19 foreign cultural centers, the elegantly designed Centre Francais is much beloved by Cairo's people. It hosts a variety of art exhibits and local and visiting musicians in its airy outdoor cafe space, as well as films in its comfortable auditorium. Madraset el-Huquq el-Firansiya Street (in the Mounir district of downtown south), Cairo. Phone 02-2796-7679.
| Spectator Sports | Top |
Egyptians are soccer fanatics, and games—especially those of the leading clubs Al Ahli and Zamalek—are always packed. The main venue is the national stadium on Saleh Salem Street, Nasr City, and tickets can be bought for a pittance. A thoroughly Egyptian experience. Watch for huge traffic jams in the area during the hours leading up to and immediately following game time.
Cairo's sprawling markets are a feast of sights, sounds and shopping opportunities. The seminal Cairo shopping experience is a day in the Khan el-Khalili bazaar, a warren of winding streets and twisting alleyways with an amazing number of shops, stalls and carts. You could easily spend a day (ideally two half-days) taking it all in. Be prepared to bargain shamelessly. The perfume shops are particularly memorable: Suffused with spice, oil and floral scents and decorated with plush Oriental carpets and beautiful crystal chandeliers, they're run by clerks who can mix any fragrance you desire. And the exquisite perfume bottles—in hundreds of shapes and sizes—make great gifts and souvenirs. (Expect to be offered tea—to get you comfortable and ready to buy.)
Jewelry is one of the best buys in Cairo. You can order, for example, a gold cartouche, a pendant with the wearer's name inscribed in pharaonic hieroglyphics. But be careful: Deal only with reputable merchants who sell 18-karat gold. Turquoise, lapis lazuli, topaz, aquamarine and alexandrite are of good quality and value. Khaled Sarwat Street, downtown, is chockablock with locally renowned jewelers.
Papyrus is a distinctly Egyptian creation, and papyrus artwork depicting pharaonic scenes (sometimes simply birds) has become popular as a souvenir. The best places to buy papyrus are at the many Papyrus Institutes around the city. (Be careful that the painting isn't on banana leaves passed off as papyrus. A good test is to fold the papyrus as many times as you can and then open it. If you find cracks, it isn't genuine.)
For serious shoppers, the essential resource is the Cairo Shopping Guide. It lists "Cairo's top 2,000 places to shop" and is available in bookstores and hotels for £E 20 with its companion booklet, the Cairo Dining Guide .
| Shopping Hours | Top |
Most shops are open 10 am-9 pm in winter, till 10 pm in summer. Many places in downtown Cairo remain open until midnight, especially on Thursday evening. Large stores often close 3-5 pm for an afternoon break. Be aware that, although Friday is the Islamic holy day, the majority of retail stores close on Sunday, not on Friday.
The campus bookstore has a comprehensive array of popular and scholarly material, almost all in English. A wide variety of books about Egypt, published by the American University in Cairo, are only available in Cairo. There is a satellite store with a smaller selection at the AUC Hostel in Zamalek. Saturday-Thursday 9 am-6 pm. 113 Qasr el-Aini St. (on the AUC campus near Tahrir Square; you will need an ID or passport to be permitted on the university campus), Cairo. Phone 02-2797-5900.
Books are piled to the ceiling in this shop. The owner can also help locate Middle Eastern reference material. Monday-Saturday 9 am-8 pm. 165 Mohamad Farid St. (downtown), Cairo. Phone 02-2391-4337.
This trendy bookstore is located in Zamalek. It has a cafe where customers can sit and peruse their books or magazines while enjoying a cappuccino. Daily 9 am-11:30 pm. 159 26th of July St. (Zamalek), Cairo. Phone 02-2736-2578.
A long-established publisher and retailer with a good collection of books and old photographs of North Africa. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. 44 Sharif St., Cairo. Phone 02-2392-7606.
This small store is full of paperbacks, which are often hard to find in Egypt. The manager speaks English, which is a plus. It's worth checking out if you need a quick read. Daily 9 am-9 pm. 32 Shageret el Dor St. (Zamalek), Cairo. Phone 02-2735-0492.
These stores carry basic reading material for adults and good selections of children's books and international newspapers. The original store has the plus of a Cilantro cafe with Wi-Fi next door. The Mohandiseen branch store is on Abdel Halim Hussein Street. 17 Road 216 (Degla district of Maadi), Cairo. Phone 02-2519-8831 or 02-2521-1035.
One of the oldest and most established galleries in downtown Cairo. Of its four showrooms, one presents a new exhibit every other week. Saturday-Thursday 10 am-1 pm and 5-10 pm, Friday 5-10 pm. 2 Karim el-Dawla St., Cairo. Phone 02-2574-6730.
High-quality works by artists from Egypt and abroad. Daily except Friday 10:30 am-2 pm and 4:30-8:30 pm. Gezira Exhibition Grounds, Gezira Island (in the National Cultural Center), Cairo. Phone 02-2739-8131.
A showplace for local, well-known Arab artists. Daily except Friday 11 am-8 pm. 8 Champollion St. (downtown), Cairo. Phone 02-2578-4494.
Sponsors shows and specialty art festivals. Perhaps as interesting as the gallery itself is the architecture in the neighborhood, especially the El-Nasria style of architecture rarely found elsewhere in Cairo. Saturday-Wednesday 10 am-2 pm and 6-9 pm, Friday 6-9 pm. 10 Nabrawy St. (off Champollion Street), Cairo. Phone 02-2576-8086.
Vast open-air markets, called souks in Arabic, feature everything from spices and exotic foods to fragrances, fabrics, rugs and ceramics. Some shops maintain fixed prices, but many prices are now semifixed—merchants inflate the prices by about 25% to leave some room for bargaining. Prices for gold and silver jewelry and objets d'art are usually fixed.
This souk is a maze of alleyways and workshops where artisans make wooden boxes inlaid with mother-of-pearl, pound out brass and copper trays and pots, and create stylish jewelry. Make a point to visit a perfume shop, set up like an old apothecary. Other worthwhile purchases in the bazaar include silk or wool carpets and handwoven tapestries. Household goods to look for are things made of alabaster, delicate glass (perfume flacons) or Muski glass (hand-blown from recycled bottles), and copper and brass wares. Beware of aggressive shopkeepers, but otherwise, enjoy. When you're ready for a break, stop off at a teahouse, such as Fishawy's, where you can sit outside sipping
karkadi (hibiscus tea). It's best to take a taxi to the souk. Daily 10 am-10 pm (several shops are closed or close early on Sunday). Al-Azhar Street (the southern boundary of the souk), Cairo.
Built in 1650, this is Cairo's only surviving covered market. Specialties include canvas products and appliqued tapestries, wall hangings, pillows and bed covers decorated with pharaonic or Islamic designs. Monday-Saturday 10 am-10 pm. A bit south of Khan el-Khalili near Bab Zuwayla, Cairo.
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A large mall with an upscale mix of local textile, jewelry and clothing stores. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Corniche el-Nil (near the World Trade Center), Cairo.
This large mall offers a range of Western-name shops and brands. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Nasr City, Cairo.
An elegant mall, with lots of jewelry shops and a good bookstore among its offerings. There's also a nice cafe in the central atrium. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Giza Street (in the Four Seasons Hotel complex), Cairo.
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Beautiful traditional jewelry by designer Azza Fahmy. Daily 10 am-8 pm. 73 Al-Hussein St., Dokki. Phone 02-2349-3940.
If you only visit one place to shop for quality Egyptian handicrafts, make it this boutique. Its owners travel all over the country to bring the best of Egypt's crafts together under one roof. Specialties include glass, textiles, pottery and ceramics. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm. The shop is closed the entire month of August. Ahmed Ibn Tulun Square (opposite the entrance to Ibn Tulun Mosque), Cairo. Phone 02-2365-2227.
Hand-woven textiles from Upper Egypt and beautiful El-Fayoum pottery. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm. 13 Refaa St., Dokki. Phone 02-2748-6663. http://www.nagada.net.
This restored 17th-century building is used as a workshop for artisans. All kinds of traditional handicrafts are for sale, and you can watch the artisans work without feeling pressure to buy (as you would in the souk). Daily 9 am-10 pm. El-Hussein Square (next to Al-Azhar Mosque, across the street from the Khan el-Khalili bazaar), Cairo. Phone 02-2511-0472.