Destination Guidebook for Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico
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Walking tours of downtown Guadalajara, where most of the historic monuments and buildings are located, are highly recommended. The area between the main cathedral (referred to as Catedral) and the Cabanas Institute (Instituto Cultural de Cabanas) is a restored historic district and pedestrian zone filled with shops and restaurants. It's a good place to enjoy people-watching and music, and to find street vendors selling their wares.
The cityscape is marked by dramatic public sculptures that commemorate historical events and subjects close to the hearts of the tapatios. Some of the most noteworthy are the frieze of the Founders of Guadalajara, a monument by Rafael Zamarripa behind the Teatro Degollado (it memorializes the spot of the city's founding in 1542); La Inmolacion de Quetzalcoatl (The Immolation of Quetzalcoatl) by Victor Manuel Contreras in Plaza Tapatia; the large statue of Miguel Hidalgo y Costilla, the father of Mexican Independence, in Plaza Liberacion; and the Rotunda of Illustrious Men (which does include one woman) in the plaza on the north side of the cathedral, below which six of the 12 illustrious people are buried. Along Avenida Lopez Mateos, you can see the Minerva Fountain in the middle of a large traffic circle, its centerpiece a statue of the goddess Minerva sculpted by Pedro Medina. The romantic Stampede by Jorge Pena adorns the traffic circle in front of the Fiesta Americana Hotel.
The Zona Rosa, the neighborhood around Avenida Chapultepec, is home to a plethora of cafes, bars and galleries. You'll find many colonial mansions on the side streets in either direction, many of which have been renovated and are open to the public as cafes and galleries. At the intersection of Chapultepec and Ninos Heroes is Monumento a los Ninos Heroes (Monument to the Child Heroes). Designed by artist Juan Olaguibel, the sculpture commemorates the six adolescent military cadets who leapt to their death rather than surrender to U.S. forces at Chapultepec Castle in 1847. | Historic Sites | Top  |
The cathedral, at the heart of the historic center, is surrounded by plazas, all within walking distance of each other. Plaza de Armas (south of the cathedral) is the site of the Government Palace (Palacio de Gobierno). The central gazebo there hosts free symphony concerts every Thursday evening. On the Plaza Liberacion (east of the cathedral) is the neoclassical-style Degollado Theater (Teatro Degollado). Plaza Tapatia is full of shops and restaurants and, like Plaza Liberacion, is a good place to take a break and watch the people and activity. These plazas are typical of those in any Mexican city, with shoe-shiners cooling off under trees, mariachi musicians strolling to their next gig and children chasing pigeons around fountains and bandstands.
Established in the late 1600s, this church is an important landmark for the region. This is the home of the Virgin of Zapopan, who has long played an important role to the people of Jalisco and is, in fact, the state's official patroness. The statue of the Virgin that is housed there is famous throughout Mexico: Made of cornhusks and carved wood, it's said to have miraculous powers. From June to October every year, the traveling version of the statue is transported through various towns in Jalisco, returning to the basilica on 12 October, when a great celebration takes place. Open daily. Free. Plaza de las Americas (about 5 mi/8 km from downtown Guadalajara), Zapopan. At the heart of the city is the twin-towered cathedral (known as Catedral), which is where any tour of Guadalajara should begin. Construction started in 1558, but more than four centuries of remodeling, earthquakes and reconstruction have made it a blend of architectural styles including Gothic, Corinthian, Byzantine and neoclassical. The cathedral has stained-glass windows, painted ceilings, high vaults and 11 altars donated to the church in the early 1800s by the king of Spain. Don't miss Bartoleme Murillo's La Asuncion de la Virgin, painted in 1650, in the sacristy. Open daily. Free. Ave. Alcalde 17, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3614-3058. This building, completed in the mid-1700s, is located on Plaza de Armas and now houses the offices of the governor of the State of Jalisco. The site of many pivotal events in colonial Guadalajara, it has numerous patios and arched passageways and also contains some world-famous murals by artist Jose Clemente Orozco, a Guadalajara native. Look for the huge mural of Miguel Hidalgo y Costillo, a leader of Mexico's independence movement. In 1810, he signed an edict banning slavery; although the edict never took effect, it was the first public position taken against slavery in Mexico. Daily 9 am-8:30 pm. Free admission. Corona 31, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3616-9150. At the far end of Plaza Tapatia is the Instituto Cultural de Cabanas. Built by Spanish architect Manuel Tolsa between 1805 and 1810 and founded by Bishop Don Juan Cruz Ruiz de Cabanas, the immense dwelling served primarily as an orphanage until 1980, when it was converted into a cultural center. The building resembles the famous Monastery of El Escorial near Madrid, Spain, and has 23 flower-filled patios. Cabanas, which was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1997, houses a number of galleries, cultural offices and a theater. The main chapel is the most impressive room—home to outstanding murals by Jose Clemente Orozco, including the Conquest of Mexico, the Four Horsemen of Apocalypse and his masterpiece, the Man of Fire. Many of the 57 murals cover the walls and domed ceiling in the chapel. Lie on the broad wooden benches below to take in the larger-than-life-size scenes and hire one of the guides there to explain the significance of the murals. Open Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-3 pm. M$10 adults, M$5 students or teachers (with valid ID), M$2.50 children. M$10 to take a camera inside. Cabanas 8, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3668-1640. This two-story museum is skewed toward modern art but has been home to a wide variety of temporary exhibits, including work by Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo and legendary Mexican painter Francisco Toledo. The museum also hosts a weekly film series. Open daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm, Thursday till 10 pm. M$24 adults, M$12 students or teachers (with valid ID), free for children younger than 12 and seniors; M$24 for all on Sunday. Andador 20 de Noviembre 166, Zapopan. Phone 33-3818-2575. This art museum has been located in the stately University of Guadalajara Rectory since 1995. Five galleries host temporary exhibits, but the main attractions are two Jose Clemente Orozco murals in the rectory's grand hall—a welcome distraction to anyone attending a lecture. Open Tuesday-Thursday 10:30 am-6:30 pm, Friday 10:30 am-8 pm. Free. Ave. Juarez 975, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3134-2222. The Museum of Journalism and Graphic Arts is located in Casa de los Perros (House of the Dogs). The museum is easily identified by looking up: Two large pointer sculptures adorn the roof, hence the building's name. The city's first printing press, which produced its first publications in 1792, was also located there. A museum since 1994, Casa de los Perros houses numerous communications-related exhibits, including regularly updated photography shows. Open Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 10:30 am-3 pm. M$10 adults, M$5 for students and teachers (with valid ID). M$15 to take a camera inside. Alcalde 225, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3613-9289 or 33-3613-9286. Located in a building that once was a seminary, this museum houses a display of regional arts and crafts, archaeological artifacts (including a wooly mammoth skeleton) and an excellent collection of European, colonial and modern paintings. It's just off the Plaza Liberacion. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 9 am-4 pm. M$37 adults, free for students and teachers (with valid ID) and children younger than 12. Free admission for all on Sunday. Liceo 60, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3614-9957. An interactive, educational museum for children, the Museum of the Magic Top features hands-on displays in six themed galleries, art and science workshops, and interesting temporary exhibits. Open Tuesday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, Saturday, Sunday and holidays 11 am-7 pm. M$40 adults, M$25 for children, students, teachers (with valid ID) and per person for groups of 20 or more. Ave. Central 750, Zapopan. Phone 33-3030-0030. http://trompomagico.jalisco.gob.mx. The colorful Wixarica Museo de Arte Huichol is next to the basilica. A small but very interesting collection provides an introduction to the Huichol people and their art. Many Huichol spent much of the year in the rugged, inaccessible mountains outside Guadalajara; they developed a unique culture and artistic style that is presented there. Included are yarn paintings, which explain some of the Huichol myths, as well as beadwork masks and colorful traditional garments. The adjoining gift shop offers the opportunity to purchase many authentic examples of Huichol art. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-1:30 pm and 3-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-2:45 pm. M$5 adults, M$2 children. Anexo a la Basilica de Zapopan (about 5 mi/8 km from downtown Guadalajara), Zapopan. Phone 33-3636-4430. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
This public park, consisting of 345 acres/140 hectares, has forests, springs, picnic areas, horseback riding, a plant nursery, jogging trails, basketball courts, exercise stations and a Japanese garden. Located on the northwest side of Guadalajara, it offers a pleasant escape from the bustle and noise of the city. Daily 6 am-7 pm. M$5 adults, M$2 children. Ave. Patria 1805, Colonia Prados Providencia, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3641-7633. Entering this old-fashioned park is like stepping into a time warp. It has well-kept gardens, winding paths, several exhibits (notably birds and, unfortunately, a nearly uninhabited butterfly sanctuary) and, of course, iron benches. It's a nicely guarded oasis on Calzada Independencia, a short ride from downtown. The Concha Acustica (a concert shell) often comes alive Friday or Saturday with rhythms ranging from rock and blues to ska and reggae—performed by local and international acts. Open daily except Monday, 10 am-6:30 pm. M$5 adults, M$2 children. Calzada Independencia Sur 973, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3619-0328 or 33-3619-0340. This park on the edge of town offers amazing views of Huentitan Canyon and the Santiago River some 1,640 ft/500 m below. It also has an outdoor theater with the canyon as a backdrop, as well as picnic areas, playgrounds and a restaurant. Daily 6 am-7 pm. M$5 adults, M$2 children. At the end of Calzada Independencia, Guadalajara. | Amusement Parks | Top |
This fun park is a family-oriented expanse of picnic areas, rides, swimming pools, playing fields and go-kart tracks for children and teens. It is located across from Plaza Patria, which is a mall. Daily noon-8 pm. Prices vary, depending on how many games are included. Ave. Avila Camacho 2700, Colonia Jardines del Country, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3823-2413. Next to the zoo is the Selva Magica amusement park, featuring rides, a dolphin show at Mundo Marino and bird demonstrations. The Magic Forest is home to Latin America's largest Ferris wheel and western Mexico's only roller coaster. Daily 10 am-8 pm in the high season; Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-8 pm in the low season. M$45 adults and children. Various discount booklets for entry into most games and shows can be purchased for M$27-$100. Ask about special zoo/park deals. Paseo del Zoologico 600, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3674-0138 or 33-3674-0397. | Zoos & Wildlife | Top |
A family of white tigers is the latest attraction at the zoo, one of the largest in Latin America and situated on 100 acres/40 hectares of rolling terrain, with animals in enclosures that resemble their natural habitats. There's a train to take you through the main areas, if you don't want to walk. The zoo affords an excellent view of the canyon, La Barranca de Huentitan. Open July and August daily 10 am-5 pm; September-June Wednesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm. M$40 adults, M$22 children. Ask about special zoo/Selva Magica package deals. Paseo del Zoologico 600, Colonia Huentitan el Alto (off the Calzada Independencia, north of town), Guadalajara. Phone 33-3674-4488 or 33-3674-4360. http://www.zooguadalajara.com.mx. Visitors looking for recreation won't go wanting in Guadalajara, especially if they golf. El Cielo (formerly El Palomar) is the swankiest in town, Santa Anita has the longest course in the area and Las Canadas Country Club (north of town) is located in a subdivision where many retired U.S. citizens live. Green fees are cheapest during the week, more expensive on weekends. Tennis players will find courts at some major chain hotels and country clubs, and hikers, birders, joggers and mountain bikers will find several green areas with facilities. | Bird Watching | Top |
The favorite place for locals is Bosque de Los Colonos, which has a large lake where dozens of species can be spotted. | Hiking & Walking | Top |
Located in the municipality of Zapopan, this protected area is where outdoor enthusiasts head on Sunday. There are jogging paths, bike paths and areas for camping. Entrance for cars open only on Sunday. Check with the Zapopan Tourist office (located in City Hall on the main square) for maps and more information. Avenida Periferico Norte, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3818-2200. Every Sunday 8 am-3 pm, the city closes Avenida Juarez/Vallarta to automobile traffic—from the Glorieta Minerva (a large traffic circle and well-known landmark) to Avenida Javier Mina. Residents turn out to walk, jog and bike the main thoroughfare. Take in the local culture and brunch at one of the many restaurants and cafes that increase their patio seating capacity for the event. Bicycles may be rented near the intersection of Juarez and Federalismo. From Los Arcos to Colonia Centro, Guadalajara. This park sports soccer fields, basketball and volleyball courts, a pool and a jogging trail. There is also a heavily wooded park area, playground equipment and a small lake with boat rentals. Daily 6:30 am-7 pm. M$10 entrance, fees vary for court, pool and lake. Alfonso Gravioto, Colonia Normalistas, Guadalajara. This expansive indoor/outdoor sports park is open to the public and offers a wealth of facilities, including a large pool ideal for swimming laps. The club also offers soccer fields, basketball and volleyball courts, a baseball field, track and air-rifle range. Daily 6:30 am-8 pm. M$10 entrance, M$50 for pool. Avenida Colon at Lazaro Cardenas (near the Unidad Deportivo metro stop), Guadalajara. | Tennis & Racquet Sports | Top |
Lighted tennis courts are available for a fee to nonguests. M$110-$160 per hour. Ave. Vallarta 5005 (near Gran Plaza shopping center), Guadalajara. Phone 33-3134-2424. http://www.caminoreal.com. This club is open to the public, and lessons are available. Daily 7 am-11 pm. Lessons M$170 per hour, court fees M$80 per hour. Ave. San Ignacio 316 (near Gran Plaza shopping center), Guadalajara. Phone 33-3647-5348. Guadalajara's nightlife is ample and varied. For a night of Mexican food, tequila and mariachis, try the Cantina de los Remedios at Ave. Americas 1462. If discos are your thing, the area around Avenida Vallarta is a hub for the dancing crowd. At La Marcha, next to the Vallarta Arches, you can dance to disco music in a beautiful restored house. On the same street, in the Centro Magno shopping area, you'll find a variety of bars and the Mito disco. On Avenida Lopez Cotilla and Avenida Chapultepec in the Zona Rosa, you'll find everything from classy cafes to informal beer terraces and live music. What Mexicans term tropical music (salsa and cumbia, for example) can be heard and danced to at several locations such as Casino Veracruz on Manzano.
Guadalajara has a strong tradition of producing musicians, and many bars have local bands playing original music, usually for a younger crowd. | Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
Chill to some world music with a drink in this hip but laid-back bar with patio. The place generally gets louder and more crowded as the night wears on, but the crowd maintains the mellow vibe. Open Monday-Saturday 8 pm-2:30 am. No cover. Ave. Hidalgo 1252 at Ignacio Ramirez, Guadalajara. This unmarked bar, which constantly changes names, is an old-school Mexican cantina but with women and hipsters joining the more traditional cantina crowd. The fluorescent lighting is too bright and the acoustics are terrible, but the drinks are cheap. As the evening wears on, an increasing number of patrons accompany the piano player in traditional Mexican song. Open Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-11 pm. No cover. Pino Suarez 78 (next to Plaza Liberacion), Guadalajara. A Guadalajara fixture since 1940, this large cantina's decor is a tribute to the history of bullfighting. A mellow scene in the afternoon and early evening, the place tends to fill up with twenty- and thirtysomethings at night. Monday-Thursday and Sunday 1:30 pm-midnight, Friday and Saturday 1:30 pm-3 am. No cover. Maestranza 179, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3613-5878. This is where those black-clad, pale-faced youth wandering around El Centro hang out. Immerse yourself in the nostalgia of Les Fleurs du Mort, a downtown bar and gallery that caters to Goths. Just follow your ears to the source of those Smiths, Cure, Bauhaus and Sisters of Mercy tunes filling the streets. Nightly till 2 am. Calle 8 de Julio 5, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3613-1521. One of the more cosmopolitan nighttime hangouts around, this upscale wine bar is home to a weekly jazz show broadcast on the University of Guadalajara radio station. It's a restaurant, too, with a creative, eclectic menu of Asian fusion and Mexican dishes. Adjoining the main dining room is a patio and lounge, where jazz or electronica provides a soundtrack for the imbibing of the hip and beautiful. Open Monday-Saturday 1:30 pm-1 am. Reservations recommended on weekends. $$$. Accepts Visa, MasterCard and American Express. Jose Guadalupe Zuno 2391, Colonia Lafayette, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3615-9535. http://www.tintoyblanco.com. | Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
This is one of the biggest and best-known of the gay clubs in Guadalajara. It's home to special events and concerts, as well as DJ-spun dance music. Open Wednesday-Saturday 10 pm-6 am. Cover varies, depending on the event; free on Wednesdays and before 11 pm Fridays. Lopez Cotilla 1495-B, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3615-2525. http://www.angelsclub.com.mx. Dance to the tropical sounds of salsa and a variety of other Latin genres at this large dance club. Call ahead to get a schedule for lessons. Open Wednesday-Saturday 9:30 pm-3:30 am, Sunday 6 pm–2 am. Cover M$50. Manzano 486 (near Constituyentes), Guadalajara. Phone 33-3613-4422. Dance to a mix of disco and house music in a beautiful restored house next to The Arches on Avenida Vallarta. Cover M$160 men, M$120 women Friday-Saturday 10 pm-6 am. Special promotion on Wednesdays 10 pm-2 am: M$160 covers entrance for guys into La Marcha and two other clubs in the area: Mito (in Centro Magno, Ave. Vallarta 2425) and Malacca (one block away on Lopez Cotilla 2233). No cover for the ladies on Wednesdays. Ave. Vallarta 2648, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3615-8999. Down-home Bar Barba Negra (Blackbeard) is just a few blocks off the main drag (Chapultepec) in the Zona Rosa, and it's a good place to see local rock and blues bands. Open Tuesday-Saturday 6:30 pm-3 am (although it occasionally closes at midnight). Cover varies. Justo Sierra 2194, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3615-3879. This old bar has a black-and-white 1940s Hollywood ambience, and a great house band plays Cuban salsa and cumbia Friday and Saturday nights. It's hidden in Nueve Esquinas (nine corners), a charming old colonial neighborhood near the city center. Open Monday-Saturday 2 pm-1 am. Rio Seco 9 (off Colon), Nueve Esquinas, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3658-0406 or 33-3613-2096. This place is fast becoming one of the premier venues to catch local acid jazz, funk, blues and rock acts. It's a basic bar and stage setup on the ground level, with a lounge and gallery upstairs. Many evenings feature local-musician jam sessions and no cover. Live music most nights from 9 pm. Cover varies. Lerdo de Tejada 2183 (two blocks east of Union), Guadalajara. Phone 33-3330-0532. Tapatios love to dance to the polkalike music played there. Rancho Grande—a combination restaurant, bar, dance hall and event space—has live banda Thursday-Sunday from 10 pm, in the style of the northern state of Sinaloa. Rancho Grande also features twice-daily regional folk dancing and mariachi performances (Monday-Saturday at 3 pm). Open daily 2 pm-1 am. Cover M$50 Friday and Saturday after 7 pm. Women get in free on Friday. Ave. Lopez Mateos Sur 4343, Zapopan. Phone 33-3632-9332. | Performing Arts | Top  |
You'll find cultural events year-round in Guadalajara, a virtual hub of world-class opera, dance—both modern and classical—musical theater and film festivals. It definitely has the best venues and performances on Mexico's west coast and is adding to its repertoire daily. The Forum fills in as host for cultural events when Teatro Degollado closes for renovations. Housed in a modern building that opened in the late 1970s, it has long been a home for dance, theater and music performances in its own right. The lobby features a large mural entitled Mexico, Revolucion y Esperanza (Mexico, Revolution and Hope) by painter Guillermo Chavez Vega. Box office open Monday-Friday 9 am-9 pm. Prolongacion Alcalde 1451, Colonia Observatorio, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3819-2397. On the Plaza Liberacion, east of the cathedral, you will find the Degollado Theater, which was built in the mid-1800s. Its facade has eight Corinthian columns and a frieze depicting Apollo and the nine muses of Greek mythology. The beautiful but deteriorating theater hosts concerts, plays, operas and other performances. Because of ongoing renovations, the theater is often closed between performances, but if it's open while you're sightseeing in the historic district, it's certainly worth a look. When it's open, the hours are daily 10 am-1 pm and 4-7 pm. Calles Belen and Morelos, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3614-4773. The auditorium, which is actually owned by the University of Guadalajara, draws the bulk of well-known musical, theater and dance performances that pass through the city. It's also the home to the University's Ballet Folklorico, the Jalisco Symphony Orchestra and the opening and closing galas for the International Film Festival. Consult local papers or Ticketmaster for scheduling and ticket prices. Box office open daily 11 am-8 pm. Ave. 16 de Septiembre 710, Colonia Centro, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3614-7072. Teatro Galerias is a sophisticated, modern auditorium that's home to a variety of concerts, dance performances and theatrical events. Box office open daily 10 am-9 pm. Consult local papers or Ticketmaster for scheduling and ticket prices. Lapislazuli 3445 (near Plaza del Sol), Guadalajara. Phone 33-3631-0708. | Spectator Sports | Top |
Bullfights are generally held every weekend September-December. Phone 33-3637-9982 or 33-3651-8378.
Throughout much of the year, you can watch professional soccer (called futbol in Mexico) at the Estadio Jalisco. Guadalajara's most popular teams are the Chivas and Atlas.
The elaborate charreadas (Mexican-style rodeos) are held at the Lienzo Charros de Jalisco (Dr. R. Michel 577) on Sunday afternoons and are spectacular to watch. However, if you're sensitive, beware: Charreadas sometimes involve practices known as horse tripping and steer tailing, which can lead to severe and even fatal animal injuries. Phone 33-3619-0315 or 33-3619-3232. This club is affiliated with the Atlas soccer team. Copernico 943, Colonia Chapalita, Zapopan. Phone 33-3628-0525. http://www.atlas.com.mx. This club is affiliated with the Chivas soccer team. Daily 6:30 am-9 pm. Colomos 2339, Colonia Providencia, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3540-2100. http://www.chivasdecorazon.com.mx. This is a real shopper's town, with articles from all over the country as well as local specialties. Handwoven articles (serapes and blankets), pottery, ceramics, paintings, clothes, hats, leather goods (especially shoes), silver work and wood carvings are just some of the things you'll find. Shop the Casa de las Artesanias de Jalisco for regional handcrafts and the Mercado de Flores, on the west side of Parque Agua Azul, for its incredible collection of colorful flowers. In the museum next door to the church of the Virgin of Zapopan, you can buy Huichol crafts—beadwork, dresses and, especially, brightly colored yarn paintings. The Mercado Libertad—one of the largest covered markets in the Americas—is an experience not to be missed, no matter what you're looking for.
Go to Tonala for ceramics—works by Jorge Wilmot, in particular, are world famous, and see the Casa de los Artesanos. Tlaquepaque is a wonderful place to shop for art, ironwork, blown glass and ceramics. Sergio Bustamante has a gallery in Tlaquepaque, and ceramic artist Ken Edwards has one as well. Other galleries are devoted to glass, jewelry and interior design—don't miss the showrooms at La Casa Canela.
Guadalajara has also fully embraced mall culture, Wal-Mart and Costco, which means there are few items you can't find in town. In fact, plazas not found in the city center are more than likely malls and not a traditional open-air square. Plaza del Sol, Gran Plaza, Plaza Patria and Plaza Galerias are malls. International and regional department store chains are often found there. Some—Fabricas de Francia, Zaragoza—can also be found downtown, in the vicinity of Avenida Juarez. | Shopping Hours | Top |
Traditional shopping hours in Guadalajara and its environs are Monday-Saturday 9 am-2 pm and 4-7 pm. Although many locations remain open during midday or may be open on Sunday, it's a good idea to keep these hours in mind. Don't assume you'll be able to pick up those last-minute souvenirs at lunchtime. | Antique Stores | Top |
The stretch of Avenida Mexico (just west of Chapultepec) is home to a number of antiques shops. These are small, independent shops, and their hours may be erratic. It's generally best to assume they're closed between 2 and 4 pm, and many are closed Monday.
Be forewarned that the selection and quality vary widely each week. Open Sunday 9 am-3 pm. Plaza Mexico, Avenida Mexico (between Avenida Chapultepec and Manuel Dieguez), Guadalajara. This shop is the best location for English-language books. The store specializes in travel, classics, popular fiction and textbooks, but it also carries a fair number of reference titles, cookbooks and magazines. Because there are few companies that import books into Mexico (and import taxes are high), you'll pay more for books than in other countries—but Sandi's prices are competitive for Guadalajara. Open Monday-Friday 9:30 am-7 pm, Saturday 9:30 am-2 pm. Tepeyac 718, Colonia Chapalita, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3121-0863. http://www.sandibooks.com. The eccentric Guadalajara artist, known originally for his papier-mache work, now exhibits a wide variety of sculpture, furniture, jewelry and more at his galleries throughout Mexico. Visit his Tlaquepaque gallery for a glimpse into his surrealistically fun world. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-4 pm. Independencia 238, Zona Centro, Tlaquepaque. Phone 33-3639-5519. http://www.sergiobustamante.com.mx. One of many intriguing galleries on the pedestrian walkway in central Tlaquepaque, La Casa Canela offers furniture, glassware and much more. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. Independencia 163, Zona Centro, Tlaquepaque. Phone 33-3635-0768. Guadalajara's flower markets are fun to visit. A favorite is on the west side of Parque Agua Azul. Just east of the downtown plazas is Guadalajara's largest market—the Mercado Libertad, also known as Mercado San Juan de Dios. (It's named after the Rio San Juan, which once flowed alongside the market.) The explosion of colors, tastes, smells and sounds is a full frontal assault on the senses. The array of goods is incredible: baskets, pottery, clothing, flowers, guitars, trinkets, fruits and vegetables. It's a very good place to shop for handcrafted items, but be careful that you are getting top quality for your money. Daily 6 am-6 pm, but it's best to visit during regular business hours and stay away during the siesta time, 2-4 pm. Calzada Independencia, near Plaza Tapatia, Guadalajara. | Specialty Stores | Top |
This store and museum is on the north side of Parque Agua Azul. Although the items there aren't the cheapest you'll find, the quality is consistently high and the prices (which aren't negotiable) are quite reasonable. The selection changes regularly, but you can generally find everything from small trinkets and masks to fine paintings and furniture. Even if you're not buying, this is a good place to get an idea of the range of artwork produced in the region. Open Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm, Sunday 10 am-3 pm. Ave. Gonzalez Gallo 20 (north side of Parque Agua Azul), Guadalajara. Phone 33-3619-5179. A plethora of jewelers under one roof sell silver and gold jewelry, as well as precious stones. Plaza Tapatia, Guadalajara. This place has been serving cowboys since 1961, so it should have the traditional Mexican ranch supplies you want. Stock up on sombreros, boots, mariachi costumes, leather jackets, fancy charro shirts—even saddles. Open Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-8 pm. Ave. Juarez 148, Colonia Centro, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3614-9743. http://www.el-charro.net. A mall filled with nothing but shoe stores highlights the best (and worst) of Jalisco's leather industry, one of the largest in the country. Avenida Mexico (at Avenida Yaqui), Guadalajara. Called the Tiffany & Co. of Mexico, Tane has the best—and possibly most expensive—selection of silver in the city. It offers elegant flatware, archaeological reproductions and creations by Mexico's most daring designers. Located in the Presidente InterContinental Hotel. Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm and 4:40-7 pm, Saturday 10 am-2 pm. Avenida Lopez Mateos Sur at Avenida Moctezuma, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3647-8962. To Guachimontones. You'll find an unusual series of concentric circles that were prehispanic ceremonial centers at this archaeological site outside Guadalajara. Located near the village of Teuchitlan, the ruins consist of 10 circle pyramids, a couple of ball courts, a plaza and cultivated terraces more than 2,000 years old. It flourished during the pre-classic period in Mesoamerica. An important ritual was that of "flyers," which is akin to the flyers of Papantla, who twirled down from a tall pole atop the pyramids with a rope tied around their ankles. It's best to sign up for a day tour, which usually includes a visit to the ruins, the on-site museum and lunch. Charter Club Tours has excursions in English that leave at 8 am. Phone 33-3122-1214.
To Tlaquepaque. The quaint artisan town is a southeastern suburb of Guadalajara (only 3 mi/5 km from the city center). It's full of shops and galleries that specialize in high-quality ceramics, glass and bronze, which often end up in international collections. Visit the Museo Regional de la Ceramica y los Artes Populares de Jalisco (Independencia 237) to explore an extensive collection of the region's arts and handicrafts. To get the flavor of the town, spend some time at El Parian square, which is bustling with mariachis, traditional Mexican restaurants and a beer-garden atmosphere.
To Tonala. The suburb (10 mi/16 km southeast of downtown Guadalajara) is another arts center, less touristy than Tlaquepaque and not as pretty. Its ceramics museum, Museo Nacional de Ceramica, is famous for unusual ceramic pieces and cobalt-blue glassware. Thursday and Sunday are market days in Tonala, which means the main streets are lined with craftspeople hawking their wares. Although this provides a significant increase in the quantity of merchandise, it doesn't necessarily raise the quality. Many of the best items (and prices) can be found in the many shops and factories off the main drag. Some of these factories allow visitors to watch papier-mache, ceramics, furniture, stoneware and glass items being made.
To Tequila. Go there for tours of tequila ranches and distilleries, about 30 mi/50 km northwest of Guadalajara. The drive takes you past fields of blue agave—the plant from which tequila is distilled. Jalisco is one of only five states that comprise the official "Denomination of Origin" territory, the only place where true tequila can be made. The valley around Tequila and the neighboring highlands are responsible for producing most of the market's tequila. Register for a tour in Tequila's central plaza, or simply hoof it over to Jose Cuervo, the largest distillery in town. You'll get a whole different perspective on tequila and perhaps develop an appreciation for the finer, aged versions suitable for sipping. A huge handicrafts shop is worth exploring for the many fine examples of regional handiwork. Another way to explore the Tequila region is on the Tequila Express.
To Lake Chapala. Located 25 mi/40 km southeast of Guadalajara, Lake Chapala is the largest natural lake in Mexico. The area's pleasant climate and altitude of 5,200 ft/1,600 m have made it very popular. The lake's water has grown increasingly polluted, leading the federal government to declare it a national heritage site and take steps to protect it, with promising results. The small communities of Ajijic, Chapala and Jocotopec rim the northern shore of the lake. Ajijic and Chapala are popular retirement areas for U.S. and Canadian citizens. They've established country clubs, tennis courts, sidewalk cafes and great shops, especially for hand-woven textiles. Jocotopec is a more traditional Mexican town. Lake Chapala is about a one-hour drive from Guadalajara. Buses leave for the lake every 20 minutes from the old bus depot downtown (northeast of Parque Agua Azul). Whether you are walking, driving or riding the rails, tours highlight the vast cultural and historical attractions in the city plus a taste (literally) of one of the region's finest products, tequila.
Take a guided walking tour around the historic center and learn about the buildings, churches, and monuments of downtown Guadalajara while stretching your legs. Spanish tours depart every Saturday at 10 am and 4 pm from the tourist information booth in Plaza Guadalajara and last about three hours. Free. Sign up one hour before the tour, and call in advance to request an English-speaking guide. Phone 33-3615-1182 or 33-3616-9150. Guadalajara's version of a double-decker bus tour, the Tapatio Tour consists of a two-hour loop, cassette-based excursion available in English, Spanish, French, German, Italian or Japanese. Board the bus anywhere along its route and buy a ticket onboard—you're free to get off and explore at any of the stops. Stops include Plaza de Armas, Hospicio Cabanas (Calzada Independencia and Avenida Juarez), University of Guadalajara, Glorieta Minerva, Plaza del Sol shopping center, Expo Guadalajara, Museo del Arte Moderno Raul Anguiano, U.S. Consulate and Expiatorio Temple. Daily 10 am-8 pm. M$90 adults (M$120 Saturday and Sunday), M$50 seniors, children ages 4-10 or students with valid ID (M$60 Saturday and Sunday), free for children younger than 4. Phone 33-3613-0887. If the search for the perfect tequila—or at least how it's made—is what you're after, the Tequila Express is for you. This train excursion, with mariachi music and tequila samples along the way, takes you to Amatitan, next to the town of Tequila where the liquor was born. At the Hacienda San Jose del Refugio, at which Herradura produces one of the finest tequilas, you will learn how blue agave cactus is harvested and see the distilling process firsthand. After the tour of the distillery, you will be served a lively buffet of traditional Mexican dishes, accompanied by music and dance. The Express leaves every Saturday from the train station at Avenida Washington and Avenida 16 de Septiembre. Mariachis will accompany you during the 90-minute ride. The train departs Saturday at 11 am (be at the station at 10:30 am) and returns at 7:30 pm. M$850 adults, M$550 children ages 5-12, free for children younger than 5. Purchase tickets from the Guadalajara Chamber of Commerce, Ave. Vallarta 4095. Phone 33-3880-9099. Travel around Guadalajara on a bus designed to look like a San Francisco cable car. The one-hour, cassette-based tour in Spanish or English includes the city center, with a number of stops along the way to the Minerva sculpture on Avenida Vallarta. Departs 11 am and 1, 4, 6 and 7:30 pm. M$90 adults, M$70 seniors, children or students (with valid ID), free for children younger than 6. Departs from Plaza Guadalajara (across the street from the Cathedral), Guadalajara. Arrange a tour of Zapopan's tourist destinations through the municipality's tourism office. Tours include the historic center (featuring the Basilica de Zapopan, Parroquia de San Pedro Apostal, Zapopan Arch, the pedestrian plaza Teopitzintli, Municipal Palace and Wixarica Huichol Museum); Bosque de La Primavera; Haciendas of Zapopan; and Barranca del Rio Santiago canyon. Contact Direccion de Turismo y Promocion Economica de Zapopan, Ave. Vallarta 6503, Guadalajara. Phone 33-3818-2200. We recommend spending a minimum of four days in Guadalajara. Any fewer would not do the city justice.
Day 1—Tour the downtown area and the plazas, stopping at the Catedral, the Museo Regional de Guadalajara and, most importantly, the Instituto Cultural de Cabanas. When you're ready, visit the Mercado Libertad. If you've still got energy left (remember the high altitude of the city), end the day with a visit to the flower market near Parque Agua Azul and then dinner.
Day 2—Spend the day shopping and touring Tonala and/or Tlaquepaque.
Day 3—Drive or take a bus to Tequila or the Lake Chapala area. Tour the impressive Jose Cuervo distillery in Tequila or rent horses and explore lakeside goings-on in Chapala or Ajijic.
Day 4—If you're visiting on the weekend, plan to attend the Sunday-morning performance by the University of Guadalajara Folklorico Ballet at Teatro Diana (Ave. 16 de Septiembre 710). In the afternoon, see a charreada, bullfight or soccer game.
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