Destination Guidebook for Jakarta, Indonesia
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If you have only a day or so to sightsee, you'll want to concentrate on Jakarta's historic sites. When the city was established as the capital of the modern nation of Indonesia, Sukarno, the country's first president, established many museums and built public monuments to instill the new republic with a sense of nationhood and destiny. City leaders don't do enough to make them attractive, but they're still among Jakarta's most interesting sights.
Start your tour in Jakarta's historic quarter, Taman Fatahillah. This public square was the heart of 18th-century Batavia, and the colonial buildings that flank it once housed the nation's administrative organs. The square has been both execution ground and fairground, and today, flanked on three sides by museums, and with a generous shade tree at its center, it mainly hosts tourists. Of the three museums surrounding the square, Museum Wayang (Puppet Museum) is by far the best, but the Museum Sejarah Kota Jakarta (Jakarta History Museum) and the perpetually under renovation Balai Seni Rupa (Museum of Fine Arts) are worth a visit when you're in the area. When you're finished, take a break in the airy Cafe Batavia, which also looks onto the square.
The energetic or those fascinated by all things maritime may want to strike further north to Museum Bahari (the Maritime Museum) and Sunda Kelapa. Early-birds may want to visit Pasar Ikan, the large fresh-fish market, but if you're there after sunrise, you're wasting your time. Heading south from Taman Fatahillah takes you to Glodok, Jakarta's Chinatown, but this is a Chinatown that doesn't really come into its own until the evening, well after all the museums have closed. You may also head farther south to Jalan Juanda and pass the northern entrance of the Istana Negara, the State Palace where the president's office is located. You will soon reach the huge modernist Mesjid Istiqlal (Grand Mosque), which is open to visitors, except during services.
The Grand Mosque (the largest in southeast Asia) faces onto the eastern flank of Medan Merdeka (Merdeka or Freedom Square), which is the site of the National Monument, Monas. The top of Monas has an observation deck that, on a clear day, offers a stunning panoramic view of the city. A number of governmental buildings, including the presidential palace, face the square.
After ascending Monas, you could exit Medan Merdeka to the northwest and walk down its west side. You'll shortly arrive at the Museum Nasional (National Museum), which contains an exquisite collection of all things Indonesian and is easily the best museum in the nation.
| Historic Sites | Top  |
Freedom Square, as this square is known, has been a lot of different things over the past 350 years: a buffalo field, a military training ground and a desirable residential area in the 1800s. The early 1900s saw the square degenerate into a brickyard, train station and sports center before Sukarno decided to build a grand monument there. Stately government buildings now surround the square. The 430-ft/132-m Monument Nasional (National Monument, more commonly called Monas) in the square is an obelisk made of Italian marble and topped by a glittering, gilded flame. On clear days, the viewing platform below the flame offers a bird's-eye view of Jakarta and the bay. The National History Museum in the base tells the story of the independence struggle in 48 dramatic dioramas. Monas is best avoided on weekends when big crowds combined with a painfully slow elevator can lead to exasperating delays. The monument is open daily 9 am-5 pm. 1,500 Rp for the museum; 5,000 Rp for the elevator ride to the top of the monument. Phone 384-0451. Perhaps the oldest mosque in Jakarta (built before 1761), this deep-red structure is now a protected monument. Built on stilts above the ruined houses of Balinese Muslims, it reflects the architectural style of Balinese mosques, as well as elements of Arabic, Javanese, Dutch and Chinese styles. The mosque is out of the way, however, so you may want to skip this destination if you're lacking for time, especially if you are a first-time visitor to Jakarta. Open during daylight hours. No admission fee, but tip the caretaker. Kampung Marunda Besar, North Jakarta (off Cilincing Lama 3; walk along the raised walkway to the far end), Jakarta. Also known as the Grand Mosque, Mesjid Istiqlal is indeed grand—the largest in southeast Asia. The total capacity of the mosque is 100,000 worshippers, with separate floors for men and women. The structure is essentially a concrete box with the walls, walkways and floors covered in marble from Tulung Agung, East Java. The minaret pillar and pierced latticework on the walkways are made of stainless steel. Dress very conservatively if you visit. Open 24 hours, except during prayer sessions. On Friday the mosque is not open to women during prayer time (11:30 am-2:30 pm). No admission fee, but donations are appreciated. Jalan Taman Wijaya Kusuma, Jakarta. Phone 384-4662. The city's old harbor is home to traditional pinisi prahu, the Bugis schooners that ship goods between the islands of Indonesia. An active port since the 1100s and once a center of the spice trade, the harbor now handles raw materials such as timber logged in Borneo and Sumatra and rice and kapok (cotton) from Sulawesi. Loading and unloading is pure physical labor: Workers carry enormous loads on their shoulders as they clamber up and down steep gangplanks. You can take a small rowboat to the fish market across the river for about 10,000 Rp. The harbor is within walking distance of Museum Bahari. Jalan Maritim Raya, Sunda Kelapa, Jakarta. Also known as Fatahillah Square, this was the main public area and the administrative heart of Batavia in the 1700s. Weekly fairs, market days and public executions were all held there. The old Portuguese cannon, Si Jagur, in front of Cafe Batavia was brought to Fort Batavia by the Dutch after they conquered Malacca in 1641 and relocated to the square after the fort was demolished in 1809. But to hear the Javanese legends, the cannon was once a man called Kyai Jagur. He and his wife were transformed into cannons after their deaths. Her cannon was transported to Banten, where it remains to this day. If ever the two cannons are buried side by side, according to the legend, the world will come to an end. The old city hall building, now the Museum Sejarah Kota Jakarta, stands on one side of the square. Two other notable museums also front the square: Balai Seni Rupa and Museum Wayang. Jalan Pintu Besar Utara, Kota, Jakarta. Also known as the Museum of Fine Arts & Ceramics, Balai Seni Rupa is housed in a Greek classical-style building that was once the Dutch Council of Justice, dating from 1879. The museum contains a collection of 19th-century paintings along with a collection of ceramics and terra-cotta. Famous Indonesian artists Raden Saleh and Affandi are represented, and the courtyards display sculpture. Sadly, the art is poorly displayed. The museum seems to be forever under a state of renovation. The ceramics display at the Nasional Museum is far superior. Tuesday-Thursday 9 am-3 pm, Friday 9 am-2:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm. 1,000 Rp. Jalan Pos Kota 2 (on the east side of Fatahillah Square), Kota, Jakarta. Phone 690-7060. The Maritime Museum showcases the oceangoing history of the Indonesian archipelago through a collection of navigational charts and equipment, seashells, paintings and historical photographs. Original and scale models illustrate traditional boat-building techniques. The museum is located in what were beautifully restored warehouses dating from 1652, but they're not aging well. Its front wall is the only remaining part of the old city wall of Batavia. From the lookout tower you can see fishing boats moored. Tuesday-Thursday 9 am-3 pm, Friday 9 am-2:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm. 2,000 Rp (includes admission to Lookout Tower at Jalan Pakin and Jalan Pasar Ikan). Jalan Pasar Ikan 1, Sunda Kelapa, Jakarta. Phone 669-3406. Indonesia's national museum is also known as Gedung Gajah (Elephant Building) after the Siamese bronze elephant statue in front. The museum contains more than 100,000 objects, including a world-class collection of Chinese ceramics. Indonesia's cultural diversity is celebrated in an enormous ethnographic collection of houses, household items and ceremonial objects used by various tribes and groups. Highlights include the towering statue of King Malaya Adityavaram standing on a base of eight skulls, and don't miss the two treasure rooms upstairs. A sleek new contemporary wing has been built to house expanded exhibits. The Indonesian Heritage Society conducts free guided tours in several languages—the English-language tours take place on Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday at 9:30 am, the second Saturday and last Sunday of the month at 10:30 am. Tuesday-Thursday 8:30 am-2:30 pm, Friday 8:30-11 am, Saturday 8:30 am-1:30 pm. Admission 750 Rp or 3,000 Rp with a camera. Jalan Merdeka Barat 12, Jakarta. Phone 381-1551. This museum, in the old Batavia city hall, traces the development of colonial Jakarta through a collection of antique furniture and portraits of all the Dutch governors. The building itself may be the most interesting part of a visit, however: Built in 1710, it's the largest and finest remaining example of Dutch colonial architecture in the city. The leafy courtyard behind the museum was the scene of the 1740 massacre of 5,000 Chinese who had sought sanctuary there. Tuesday-Thursday 9 am-3 pm, Friday 9 am-2:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm. 2,000 Rp. Taman Fatahillah 1, Kota, Jakarta. Phone 690-1483. The Textile Museum has exhibits of objects in its rotating collections that change about every six months. Styles and techniques of all provinces, including the former Indonesian provence of East Timor (now Timor Leste) are represented in its 1,000-piece collection. The library has historical materials on traditional textiles. Tuesday-Thursday 9 am-3 pm, Friday 9 am-2:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm. 2,000 Rp. Jalan Aipda K. S. Tubun 4, Tanah Abang, Jakarta. Phone 560-6613. One of the best museums in Indonesia, Museum Wayang provides an excellent introduction to shadow-puppet theater, the nation's principal contribution to world culture. Its superb collection of Indonesian puppets and musical instruments allows visitors to learn about the regional variations in design and materials. Performances lasting several hours are held on Sunday beginning at 10 am. Tuesday-Thursday 9 am-3 pm, Friday 9 am-2:30 pm, Saturday 9 am-12:30 pm. 2,000 Rp. Jalan Pintu Besar Barat 27 (on the west side of Fatahillah Square), Kota, Jakarta. Phone 692-9560. | Neighborhoods & Districts | Top |
Glodok came into being after the massacre of Chinese immigrants in 1740, which was precipitated by fears over the uncontrolled influx of immigrants from China. The Dutch thereafter confined the Chinese to ghettos, one of which became Glodok. Behind the rather ugly shopfronts of Jalan Gajah Mada and Jalan Hayam Wuruk are winding lanes over which protrude the balconies of narrow houses. You'll also see other interesting examples of Chinese culture, tradition, beliefs and architecture. As you explore the area, visit Mesjid Jami Kebon (Jalan Hayam Wuruk 83), a mosque whose decor is influenced by Chinese art and motifs; Candra Naya (Jalan Gajah Mada 188), a fine example of 17th-century architecture; and Vihara Dharma Bhakti Buddhist Temple (on Petak Sembilan, though you'll need to fight your way through a wet market to reach it), a popular and often noisy place that's also the oldest temple in Batavia. Also known as New Market, this area was originally populated by Indian Hindus, who moved there in the 1800s. They were joined by later waves of immigrants, and today Hindu temples, Dutch churches, Sikh gurdwaras and Chinese temples are within walking distance of one another. Visit the three Buddhist temples on Jalan Lautze and the Gereja Ayam (Chicken Church) at Jalan Haji Samanhudi 12. You might also be able to gain entrance to the Sikh temple at Jalan Pasar Baru Timur 10 and the Sai Baba Centre on Pasar Baru Selatan. (At both, ring the bell for permission before entering.) Stop by the Jamu Nyonya Meneer shop on Jalan Pasar Baru to see how the traditional Indonesian herbal medicine known as jamu is made. This area west of Kota was home first to Muslims from India. Because some of the early settlers were believed to be direct descendants of the prophet Muhammad, people in the community were highly respected as religious leaders. A number of notable buildings have survived, including Mesjid Jami Annawir (Jalan Pekojan 72), a mosque built in 1760; and Mesjid Al-Anwar (Jalan Tubagus Angke), an interesting mosque that mixes Balinese, Dutch and Chinese architectural styles. | Amusement Parks | Top |
This huge amusement park was built on reclaimed land around Jakarta Bay and stretches from Tanjong Priok harbor to the old historic center of Kota. Chief attractions are the Pasar Seni (art market), Sea World, Dunia Fantasyland (a very good, if illegal, copy of Disney World), Gelanggang Samudra Ancol (a marine mammal attraction) and a water park. Open 24 hours a day, though hours at each attraction vary. All are usually open during daylight hours. Admission to the park is 10,000 Rp. Some attractions charge a separate admission fee. Jalan Lodan Timur, Ancol, Jakarta. Phone 6471-1512. http://www.ancol.com. This park, whose name translates as "Beautiful Indonesia in Miniature," was conceived by Ibu Tien Suharto, the wife of former president Suharto. It's made up of houses that reflect the traditional architecture of every province of Indonesia. The centerpiece of the park is a lake on which all the major islands are represented geographically. Places of worship are also replicated, including a scale model of the famous Borobudur temple. The park also contains museums dedicated to science, fauna, military heroes, Asmat culture, sports and more. The Indonesian Museum displays contemporary arts and crafts. The park is very crowded on Sundays and public holidays, when major cultural performances are held. Unfortunately the park hasn't been maintained nearly as it should be and it is quite badly rundown. Tuesday-Sunday 8 am-5 pm. 8,000 Rp for adults and children. Some museums charge a separate admission fee. Monorail rides cost 3,000 Rp, the cable car is 18,000 Rp. In Pondok Gede (6 mi/10 km southeast of town along the toll road to Bogor), Jakarta. Phone 840-9237. Though it sits close by the sea, Jakarta is not a place to take a beach holiday: Jakarta Bay is heavily polluted. Those seeking some time by the water are better off heading for one of the beach resorts to the west of the capital, such as Anyer or Carita Beach. Pulau Seribu ("the Thousand Islands"), north of Jakarta in the Java Sea, is another enticing possibility.
Most hotels have well-equipped gyms, swimming pools and tennis courts and offer free entry to hotel guests and some limited access for paying day visitors. Golf courses are abundant, but it can be difficult for nonmembers to gain access to the top ones. Expect to pay at least 300,000 Rp for greens fees. Hiking, walking and jogging in Jakarta are not recommended because of the terrible air pollution.
Though they are somewhat the opposite of physical exercise, deluxe massage and skin treatments are a Jakarta specialty. There are a number of spas (even a lot of hairdressing salons) that can pamper you with various procedures—a complete haircut and styling session can easily run for four hours or more. Expect treatments to begin at 70,000 Rp and go up—way up. An 18-hole, par-72 course. Clubhouse facilities include a 10-lane Olympic-size swimming pool. Greens fees, including a caddy, range 184,000 Rp Monday-Wednesday to 578,000 Rp Sunday; cart rental is extra. Jalan Bukit, Serpong Tanggerang, Jakarta. Phone 573-0290. This 18-hole course, established in 1872 and originally known as the Batavia Golf Club, is the oldest in Indonesia. Greens fees, including a caddy, are 190,000 Rp Monday-Thursday, 245,000 Rp Friday and Sunday, 300,000 Rp Saturday. Carts not included. Jalan Rawamangun Muka Raya 1, East Jakarta, Jakarta. Phone 475-4732. This is a very well-located 18-hole course in central Jakarta, near the Hilton Hotel. Greens fees, including a caddy and cart, are Monday 198,000 Rp, Tuesday-Thursday 242,000 Rp, Friday 297,000 Rp, Saturday and Sunday 495,000 Rp. Jalan Asia Afrika Pintu 9, Senayan, Jakarta. Phone 571-0181. An 18-hole course in a beautiful section of Jakarta. Greens fees: Monday-Thursday 440,000 Rp, Friday 590,000 Rp; Saturday and Sunday 940,000 Rp. Pondok Indah (Jalan Metro No. 1), Jakarta. Phone 769-4906. | Spas and Health Clubs | Top |
A chain of popular traditional massage salons that cater to families. The spas are clean and professionally run and offer a broad range of services including aromatherapy, saunas, and manicures and pedicures. An hour-long massage costs 70,000 Rp. Sahid Jaya Hotel Jalan Jend Sudirman, Jakarta. Phone 570-2371. A clean and cozy place with modern architecture and modern treatments. Package deals are available for 150,000 Rp-400,000 Rp. Jalan Bangka 8-A, 24, Selatan, Jakarta. Phone 719-8002 or 719-2310. http://www.kemangdayspa.com. This very swanky yoga studio in the heart of Kemang offers both hot yoga and ashtanga, though since there's no air-conditioning, it's all pretty sweaty. Classes daily. Single class from 120,000 Rp. Jalan Kemang Raya 10a, Selatan, Jakarta. Phone 719-7379. http://www.bikramyogajakarta.com. | Tennis & Racquet Sports | Top |
The Hotel Borobudur, the Grand Hyatt Hotel and the Hilton Hotel all have squash and tennis courts available to guests at no cost or to nonguests for a fee. Most four- and five-star hotels also have tennis courts.
The SODS Club Sport has tennis and squash courts that can be rented by the hour for 40,000 Rp. Jalan Duren Bangka 25, Kemang, Jakarta. Phone 799-6131. Jakarta has long had a reputation as a city with a lively nightlife, but with continued political uncertainty, including the bombing of places that cater to overseas visitors, the night scene has quieted down considerably. Nightclubs are generally open until at least 2 am.
A less savory side of Jakarta after dark is the city's prostitution industry. Visitors—male visitors, at any rate—may find themselves being solicited, often in the bars and clubs of some of the city's best hotels. The famous female impersonators and cross-dressers known as banci—lady-boys—are one of Jakarta's illicit sights that have almost become a tourist attraction. If you want to take a peek, make a late-night drive down Taman Lawang in exclusive Menteng: They will flash any car that slows down. | Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
This friendly Amsterdam-style bar is unabashed in acknowledging that it is the place where foreigners can get wild: The establishment's name is short for Bule Gila—crazy foreigner. (This is also a play on words, as the word bugil in Indonesian means "naked"). The owner used to be a member of the Dutch football team in Jakarta. That, perhaps, explains the sporty atmosphere. The terrace next to Taman Ria lake helps you forget how close you are to the highway. Daily from 11 am. Live music only Thursday and Saturday night. Jalan Gerbang Pemuda 3, Taman Ria Senayan, Jakarta. Phone 574-7650. http://www.bugils.com. This cool, romantic cocktail bar is in the lobby of the Grand Hyatt Hotel. The signature drink is the burgundy crush, a divine concoction of cranberry juice, orange curacao and Absolut Mandarin. Their margaritas are also excellent. Daily from 6 pm. Live music starts at 8 pm. Jalan Thamrin 28, Jakarta. Phone 3192-5633. Situated a short walk from Plaza Indonesia, Face Bar shares the premises with Lanna Thai (upstairs) and Hazara (ground floor) and is a particularly popular bar with the after-work crowd. With an excellent cocktail list and nonsleazy atmosphere, Face Bar is an ideal spot to swing by before or after dinner. Open daily till late. Jalan Kusuma Atmaja 85, Jakarta. Phone 3192-5037. http://www.facebars.com. A long-established hangout where expatriates congregate with local artists, writers and musicians. This is an unpretentious joint, and music is often provided by a resident country singer. Patrons are encouraged to show appreciation by honking the long horns suspended above the benches. Good, inexpensive pub food. Daily from 5 pm. Jalan Thamrin 12, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 327-508. The 1930s theme (Tiga Puluh means "30" in Indonesian) begins with a vintage Harley-Davidson motorcycle that greets patrons as they enter the bar. The main room is dominated by a huge stage, where a resident jazz-swing band evokes the sound of the era. Period photographs, paraphernalia and furniture provide the decor. The servers twirl cocktail shakers and are always ready to share their knowledge of Jakarta nightlife. Nightly from 7. Live music Monday-Saturday. There is a cover charge on occasion depending on the night or particular promotion. Jalan Sudirman 18-20 (in Le Meridien Hotel), Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 251-3131. | Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
This hopping club is threatening to become an institution—the crowd is always changing, but the club manages to stay one step ahead. Now the emphasis is on live music and hip-hop. Daily from 5 pm. No cover, one-drink minimum. Jalan Asia Afrika (in Hotel Mulia), Senayan, Jakarta. Phone 574-7777. Aimed mainly at Chinese yuppies, the Happy Dragon tries to evoke a bit of every Chinatown in Asia. Hence the decor and paraphernalia that remind visitors of Singapore, Kuala Lumpur, Hong Kong, Shanghai and Macao. A live band alternates with go-go dancers, and the signature drink is vodka flavored with chilies. Check out the hilarious illustrations in the restrooms. Daily from 5 pm. No cover. Jalan Mangga Dua Raya (in the Dusit Mangga Dua Hotel), Glodok, Jakarta. Phone 612-8811. A fixture of the gay scene, Jalan-Jalan is located on the 36th floor of a building on Embassy Row. It's a dual-floor disco that uses the twinkling lights of the city as a backdrop. A DJ spins dance music on the first floor; a live band plays upstairs. Wednesday-Saturday from 9 pm. Cover charge 30,000 Rp for men, free for women. Jalan Rasuna Said 1, Kuningan, Jakarta. Phone 835-3979. This is the place to be for trend-obsessed Jakartans. It boasts a spectacular light show and a crisp sound system. DJs keep the crowds grooving to R&B and techno. Expect long lines on the weekend. Nightly from 10. 50,000 Rp cover. Jalan Gatot Subroto 2-3 (in the Crowne Plaza Hotel), Semanggi, Jakarta. Phone 5296-2828. This cavernous pleasure-palace has supplanted Tanamur as the scandalous disco-as-a-way-of-life for Jakarta's young and hip, where water is preferred over alcohol. Very big, very loud and always packed. Because of the crowd, be sure to guard your valuables. Nightly from 9. 50,000 Rp cover. Occasionally free for women. Jalan Haym Wuruk 111, Jakarta. Phone 6263-3234. This very popular venue draws a fun yet chic crowd with a variety of live entertainment and resident DJs. Conveniently located within the Plaza Indonesia extension and walking distance from some of the central hotels. Open daily till late. Keep an eye out for special promotions. Jalan Thamrin, Plaza Indonesia eX, Level 2, Jakarta. Phone 3190-9079. The leading jazz club in Jakarta, Jamz hosts internationally known jazz musicians on most weekends. Great crowds, although the bar's atmosphere is diminished since it moved from its cramped hole in South Jakarta to the Aston Hotel. Daily from 7 pm. Cover is 25,000 Rp on weekdays, 35,000 Rp on weekends. Jalan Garnisum Dalam 8, Semanggi (in the Aston Hotel), Jakarta. Phone 574-5672. http://www.jamzclub.com. Lounge back to comfortable R&B in the sleek though not over-popular X-Lounge. It could be renamed Z-Lounge for its Zen-like atmosphere and relaxed ambience. Views over Jakarta from up high in Plaza Semanggi are spectacular. Nightly till late. Jalan Sudirman Plaza, Semanggi, 16/17th floor, Jakarta. Phone 2553-9892. | Performing Arts | Top  |
Jakarta has quite an active arts scene, although the quality varies tremendously, and there are no high-profile companies of international stature. Instead of looking out for specific companies, grab the monthly programs put out by venues such as the Taman Ismail Marzuki (TIM) and the Gedung Kesenian Jakarta (Jakarta Playhouse). For information on what's available during the week, check the "What's On" section of the Jakarta Post or Jakarta Java Kini. Ticket prices to most events are very low, often less than 50,000 Rp.
The shadow-puppet performances known as wayang golek and wayang kulit are a unique part of Indonesian history. These traditional shows were originally based on Hindu characters, but through the years, they were modified to fit Indonesia's mix of Islamic, Christian, Hindi and animist religions. At Museum Wayang, the Sunday shows don't require you to understand Indonesian—the universal message of good triumphing over evil comes through clearly enough. The only remaining professional theater group that gives nightly performances of traditional wayang orang (Javanese dance theater). The company has a loyal following and is the primary training ground for Jakarta's best wayang actors. It offers authentic performances of the two historical epics, Ramayana and Mahabharata, accompanied by a gamelan orchestra. Dialogue is in Javanese, with the dalang (puppeteer) narrating in old Javanese. The troupe does a shorter, two-hour show with limited dialogue at the Jakarta Playhouse once a month. Shows take place Monday-Saturday, with most performances at the Bharata Theatre. The plays usually begin at 8 pm and continue past midnight. Arriving and leaving during the show, eating and talking are all acceptable. Jalan Kalilio 15, Glodok, Jakarta. Phone 421-4937. | Spectator Sports | Top |
Visitors hoping to observe sporting activities in Jakarta will have a tough time of it. The exotic traditional games like ram fights and bull runs do not take place in the capital. (The nearest place to see a ram fight is in Cilimus, in the northern suburbs of Bandung, 75 mi/125 km southeast of Jakarta.)
The sports that do take place, such as badminton and soccer, are organized by their respective national organizations, not all of which are based in Jakarta. Tournaments rotate among cities, and advance schedules tend to be uncertain. Your best bet is to call the Indonesian Sports Committee (Koni) at 573-7494 after you've arrived in the city. They'll have information about events that might be taking place. Traditional handicrafts—batik cloth, sarong and ikat textiles, tribal art, old jewelry, teak furniture—are among the best buys in Jakarta. Gold and silver jewelry, especially filigree work, are also a good investment, although prices are probably better in the town of Yogyakarta, in central Java. Coffee beans and tea leaves packed in pretty batik parcels—available in the Sogo handicraft sections in Plaza Indonesia and Plaza Senayan shopping malls—make excellent gifts for friends back home. You can also find all sorts of products made throughout the country in the Pasaraya and Sarinah department stores. (We liked the designer batik scarves and bamboo stationery sets and place mats.)
A number of shops sell antiques. The most enjoyable place to browse for collectibles is among the stores of Jalan Surabaya Antique Market. Bargaining there is imperative. Never be afraid to slash the opening price by more than half. Some antiques stores, including a whole row of shops on Jalan Ciputat Raya, offer newly made reproductions of old furniture designs—an affordable way to give your house a vintage look.
A very different type of shopping experience is available at Jakarta's pasars (markets). Most are simply a maze of roadside stalls that open very early in the morning. Others are multistory complexes. Although the average pasar has a range of items—food, clothing, housewares, stationery, pharmaceuticals—many of the more interesting ones specialize in particular items. Be warned that the crowds (including ever-present pickpockets) in the markets can make for hot, claustrophobic shopping. | Shopping Hours | Top |
Generally Monday-Saturday 9 am-5 or 6 pm, with malls and department stores open until 9 or 10 pm. Markets are usually open during daylight hours. | Antique Stores | Top |
One of the more reputable stores among the dozens of shops on Jalan Ciputat Raya, where reproduction furniture (new furniture made in old styles) is the current rage. The proprietor, Mr. Sudhewo, is a friendly sort who will share tips on how to spot genuine antiques. He also runs the Royal Treasures shop in the Grand Hyatt Galleria. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Jalan Ciputat Raya 50, Ciputat, Jakarta. Phone 749-2850. A dusty store with a big collection of old textiles from all over the archipelago. U.S. dollars preferred. Very little English spoken. Monday-Saturday 9 am-5:30 pm. Jalan Kebon Sirih Timur Dalam 22, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 384-6660. This market occupies an entire street. It's filled with store after store offering all manner of collectibles: ceramics, Dutch-style Java lamps, marine instruments (a diving helmet right out of Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, anyone?), masks, tribal medicine boxes, antique spoons, brass pots. The rules are to bargain hard and to never assume anything is a real antique: It might look old and authentic, but it could have been made the day before. Stall holders tend to be more amenable first thing in the morning and when they are closing up in late afternoon. There's a second row of stalls behind the main row—you'll find some of the most interesting items there. Daily 9 am-5 pm. Jalan Surabaya, Menteng, Jakarta. This bookstore has a number of branches across Jakarta. The selection is fair, with both QB World Books and Kinokuniya Book Store having a better range. Aksara does have a good selection of international magazines, though. Sunday-Thursday 9 am-9 pm, Friday and Saturday 9 am-10 pm. Jalan Kemang Raya 8-B, Jakarta. Phone 719-9288. http://www.aksara.com. A Japanese-owned chain of bookstores that has a very broad and complete selection of international books. It's our first choice when searching for a particular book. Jalan Asia Afrika (inside Sogo Plaza Senayan Mall, fifth floor), Jakarta. Phone 5790-0055. Jakarta's best bookstore has a wide selection, ranging from a fine collection of serious fiction to good art and fashion books. There's a good magazine selection and a cafe, too. QB has a number of branches around Jakarta; the Pondok Indah branch is the largest. Daily 10 am-9:30 pm. Jalan Arteri Pondok Indah No. 1, Jakarta. Phone 722-3732. | Department Stores | Top |
Owned by Indonesian politician Abdul Latief, this store sells just about everything. The best floors are the top ones, where the Indonesian crafts are. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Jalan Iskandarsyah II 2, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta. Phone 726-0170. http://www.pasarayagrande.com. The first department store in Indonesia, it's a messy-looking omnibus shop selling housewares, electrical appliances, clothing, books, office supplies and more. The floor devoted to Indonesian crafts is the best place in town for gifts worth taking home—at a nice price, too. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Jalan Thamrin, Pusat, Jakarta. Phone 3192-3008. This department store is the most elegant place to shop in Jakarta. Sogo's specializes in luxury goods such as Italian handbags, French perfume and British jam, but there's also a small Marks & Spencer outlet for when you find yourself suddenly sockless. Check out Australian designer Warwick Purser's straightforward take on traditional Javanese crafts, already popular at Harrod's or Marshall Field's. Jalan Thamrin 28-30 (Plaza Indonesia), Jakarta. Phone 310-7575. There is a second location in Plaza Senayan. Phone 5790-0055. Roadside stalls selling flowers by the stalk and in arrangements of all sizes, including as wreaths and congratulatory message boards. The stalls also hawk fresh fruit, birds, tropical fish and pet supplies. Open daily during daylight hours. Jalan Barito and Jalan Melawai, Kebayoran Baru, Jakarta. A three-story building selling fabrics wholesale and retail, including batik (inexpensive to expensive). Try to avoid it on weekends and holidays, when the crowds are so thick you can hardly move. The Textile Museum is nearby. Open daily during daylight hours. Jalan Fachrudin, Tanah Abang, Jakarta. A Chinese "wet market" (so named for the wet floors; choose footwear accordingly), Pasar Kemenangan sells many Chinese delicacies such as bird nests, shark fins and frogs, as well as Chinese medicine and traditional lotions, incense sticks and candles. The animals at the market are usually kept alive and slaughtered only on purchase. Best time to visit is Sunday morning, when it's less crowded. Open daily in the morning. Jalan Kemenangan, Glodok, Jakarta. An outdoor art fair, Pasar Seni has stalls where artists and craftspeople work on their art in public. You can buy batik, woodcarvings, paintings, leather work, masks, wayang puppets, ikat, metalworks and ceramic sculptures. Daily 10 am-9 pm. Jalan Lodan Timur, Ancol, Jakarta. | Shopping Areas | Top |
These two modern shopping centers are separated by a road but connected via an overhead bridge. They are the best place to shop for electronics and computers. Prices are substantially lower than elsewhere, but you'll need strong negotiating skills: Have a good idea of the real value of what you would like before you go. Expect to jostle with foreign sailors on shore leave from ships in port at nearby Tanjong Priok. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Jalan Mangga Dua Raya, Kota, Jakarta. Phone 612-6000. Commanding a central location in the heart of town, Plaza Indonesia has exclusive boutiques and the Sogo department store. The basement level, refurbished and expanded, is where the place comes alive, with small gift shops and better fast-food outlets. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Jalan Thamrin 28-30, Jakarta. Phone 310-7272. A well-laid-out mall anchored by Sogo and Metro department stores. Upscale boutiques take up the ground floor, with sports stores and other specialty shops upstairs. It's filled with young people who have money to spend. The security guards seem very good at filtering out pickpockets. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Jalan Asia Afrika 8, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 572-5555. http://www.plaza-senayan.com. One of the more central locations specializing in computer hardware and software is Ratu Plaza. Goods include a voluminous range of pirated DVDs and software. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Jalan Sudirman, Jakarta. Phone 739-4499. | Specialty Stores | Top |
Sells expensive batik cloth, handwoven silks and ikat. Makes custom batik dresses, which are popular with women in Indonesian high society. Monday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm. Jalan Teluk Betung 10, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 3193-5941. A discreet store in an exclusive residential area, Nilam specializes in unusual collectibles, including wooden textile hangers and hand-spun and handwoven cotton. Monday-Saturday 10 am-5 pm or by appointment. Jalan Pekalongan 16, Menteng, Jakarta. Phone 315-0480. A factory outlet for Nike shoes. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Jalan Meruya Ilir 12, Kebon Jeruk, Jakarta. Phone 314-9089. To Bogor. One of the most important hill stations for Dutch colonials seeking respite from Jakarta's heat, Bogor's cooler temperatures result from its altitude of 950 ft/290 m. It has the highest annual rainfall in all of Java, with some 300 thunderstorms a year. It's best known for its botanical gardens on Jalan Otto Iskandardinata, which was designed by Sir Stamford Raffles and was originally part of the palace used by colonial rulers. The palace itself—Istana Bogor on Jalan Juanda—now serves as the summer residence of the Indonesian president. It can be seen by appointment only, and arrangements must be made at least a month in advance through the head of the presidential household (phone 0251-321-001). Also try to see the 400-year-old Buddhist temple (Klenteng Dhana Gun) on Jalan Surya Kencana. Other sights of interest include the Benkel Gong workshop, which produces bronze gongs and gamelan sets using open-pit fires and traditional techniques, and Batu Tulis, an area with some 800 stones that figures in an Indonesian myth.
Bogor is about 35 mi/60 km south of Jakarta, about a two-hour drive. Trains to Bogor run regularly from Gambir Station, in central Jakarta.
To Lake Jatiluhur and Plered. About a two-hour drive from Jakarta (75 mi/120 km southeast), this area makes for a good family outing and can be combined with a return trip through Puncak if you make an overnight stop in one of the many resort inns along the way. Jatiluhur is a man-made lake and a popular resort for picnicking, swimming, boating and waterskiing. Plered is West Java's ceramic and pottery center, with many workshops still using traditional kiln-firing methods.
To get to the area, take the Cikampek toll road from Jakarta and exit at Cikampek, turning right into Purwakarta. Follow the signs to Jatiluhur. To reach Plered, return to the main road and continue in the direction you were originally traveling. You'll encounter long rows of stalls where pottery and ceramics are sold before you reach the turn-off to Plered itself.
To Puncak. About 55 mi/90 km south of Jakarta, the Puncak (or summit) region encompasses a mountain pass at an elevation of 4,900 ft/1,500 m and also includes a picturesque valley carved by the Ciliwung River. The road that winds along the river passes through small resorts and tea plantations. In the early morning, the views across the valleys are superb and the weather cool and misty.
The Puncak town of Cisarua has a safari park (Taman Safari Free Ranging Zoo) and the Gunung Mas Tea Plantation and Factory, which can be seen on a guided tour or a self-guided tour by car. The town of Cipanas is the home of the huge, spectacular National Flower Garden, in Kawang Luwuk Village. (A tall viewing tower in the center of the park offers panoramic views of the gardens and the mountain scenery in the background.) Another highlight of the region is Gede-Pangrango National Park, which surrounds two volcanoes, Gede and Pangrango. Forests, waterfalls, cool mountain air, monkeys, flying lizards and butterflies reward both day visitors and serious hikers. The picturesque trek up to the summit of Mount Gede is a strenuous five- or six-hour walk. Those looking for something less energetic might opt for the one-hour trek to the Cibeureum Waterfalls.
Remember that the Puncak area is a very popular weekend getaway from Jakarta, and most attractions will be crowded on Saturday and Sunday. Avoid returning to Jakarta late on Sunday afternoon—the toll roads will be jam-packed. City tours by coach are available, usually lasting about four hours. They take in the major sights, and most companies will pick you up at your hotel. It's a good idea to make reservations a day in advance, either by phone or through your hotel's concierge. Panorama Tours (phone 630-8105; http://www.panorama-tours.com) and Thomas Cook Indonesia (phone 520-4540) both offer a variety of tours in Jakarta and out of the city, such as a fly-and-ride tour of Borobudur Temple in Yogyakarta, a boat trip to the Thousand Islands, and visits to Bogor and Puncak.
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