Japan Things to See & Do Guide

Don't be afraid to forgo the usual tourist buys and try shopping for the latest in denim apparel with kimono-patterned-pockets, or aloha shirts that look decidedly more Japanese than Hawaiian. Stroll down the tree-lined avenues in the very upmarket Aoyama district of Tokyo, and admire the cutting-edge Japanese architecture while shopping for best in both Japanese and imported fashion and goods.

Come back down to earth in the Higashiyama area of Kyoto, and bargain shop for vintage kimonos and earthenware in the narrow backstreets that wind their way around Kiyomizu Temple. While you are there, pick up a pair of trendy Japanese–style sneakers made from used kimono textiles.

Overdose on electrical goods and game software in Japan's electronic mecca, Akibahara in Tokyo. Enjoy the carryings-on of local manga fans as they patrol the streets dressed as their favorite comic book character.

About lacquerware (shikki or urushi): There are many styles from various parts of the country, and modern designs (in/out trays, for example) are at least as plentiful as the more traditional bowls, boxes and trays. Look carefully before you buy—these days, much so-called lacquerware is synthetic varnish on plastic, rather than real lacquer applied over wood.

Take time to visit one of the department stores. They sell everything from rice paper to pressed flowers to a dozen kinds of stuffing for pillows. The Japanese are ardent consumers, so it's fun to shop with them. The Takashimaya stores in particular have a great selection of all the typical Japanese mementos.

JTB's Sunrise Tours have offered guided tours in English for the past 40 years. It is a part of one of the largest and most reputable tour operators. Tours range from half-day city tours to two-week explorations. Full- and half-day tours are conducted in many of Japan's cities and towns, including Tokyo, Osaka, Nagoya and Kyoto. Longer tours (five to 10 days) include Hokkaido, Kyushu, Ise-Toba, Hakone and Mountt Fuji. Complete tours include everything from accommodation to guides. Shinkansen tours are also available and usually include travel and accommodation.

Day 1—Arrive Tokyo.

Day 2—Tokyo.

Day 3—Nikko or Kamakura day trip. Overnight Tokyo.

Day 4—Morning in Tokyo, then afternoon bullet train to Kyoto.

Day 5—Kyoto.

Day 6—Long day trip to Hiroshima or shorter trip to Himeji. Overnight Kyoto.

Day 7—Day trip to Nara. Overnight Kyoto.

Day 8—Depart Japan from Osaka.

A two-week itinerary would add a trip along the Sea of Japan coast (to see Matsumoto, Kanazawa and other attractions in the area) and time in the Japan Alps region (to see Takayama and Nagano).

When the first atomic bomb exploded over Hiroshima on 6 August 1945, the city became an immediate symbol for the horrors of war. Today, Hiroshima has several moving reminders of that day of utter devastation.

The centerpiece is called the A-Bomb Dome—it's the skeleton of a domed building that survived the blast. Across the street is Peace Park, where you'll find the Cenotaph for the Victims (it contains all of their names) and the Atomic Bomb Museum. The museum's photographs are compelling (and horrifying): They show the actual effects of heat and radiation on human flesh.

The most moving monument is the Children's Peace Memorial, which celebrates the desire for long life and happiness, traditionally expressed in the folding of paper cranes. You may see groups of schoolchildren adding more paper cranes, strung together in rainbow garlands, to the millions that already surround the base of the memorial.

In the years since the war, Hiroshima has been rebuilt into a fairly typical industrial city (Mazda has a huge factory there). You'll find covered shopping arcades, lively department stores (with ardent consumers) and a helpful information office. Hiroshima is a good city for walking, but it also has an efficient streetcar system that provides announcements of stops in both Japanese and English. Just be sure to get the correct streetcar number from your hotel's concierge before venturing out.

The island of Miyajima lies just off the coast from Hiroshima—a short ferry ride from the end of the streetcar line. The main reasons to go there are the solitude, the view and the Shrine of Itsukushima, which is built on wooden piers over the water. The shrine's torii (the huge gate at the entrance to a Shinto shrine) is out at the head of a bay—its orange paint, stunning against the blue water, has made this one of the most photographed places in Japan. To get the best pictures, be there when the tide's in—the torii will look like it's floating. The shrine was constructed in 593 to honor the fishing gods, and for centuries, boats coming to the island had to pass under the torii. Today, travelers often find lodging on Miyajima while visiting Hiroshima. Don't leave the island without sampling the locally made crackers. Beware of the overly friendly deer wandering through the area.

Near the southwest tip of Honshu, about 50 mi/80 km west of Hiroshima, Hagi is an old castle town with a number of attractions. Though scenic ruins are all that's left of the castle, you can stroll through two neighborhoods of preserved samurai houses, some of them open to visitors. Horiuchi, with huge houses hidden behind picturesque ancient walls, was where the top rank lived; Jokamachi was home to the lower ranks. The town is also famous for exquisite tea-ceremony pottery. A score of kilns are still in operation, and many of the workshops are open to the public. If you have time, we recommend renting a bicycle and pedaling along the Aiba waterway, a tranquil old canal filled with colorful koi, or Japanese carp.

The most famous bridge in Japan, the Kintai-kyo, is found in Iwakuni, some 30 mi/45 km southwest of Hiroshima. Built in 1673, the Brocade Sash Bridge is composed of five gracefully arched spans. The bridge originally was meant for the use of samurai—all others were forbidden to step upon it. 175 mi/280 km west of Osaka.

This park is centered around the most sacred shrine in Japan and provides a fascinating glimpse into Japanese culture. For almost 2,000 years, the Grand Shrine of Ise is where the imperial family has gone to seek advice from the gods. The Grand Shrine has two parts: Naiku (the inner shrine, dedicated to the sun goddess, the Shinto supreme deity) and Geku (the outer shrine, dedicated to the goddess of food/grain). Both are wooden buildings done in simple Japanese style. Every 20 years, both shrines are torn down and replaced by exact replicas on adjacent plots—this will next happen in 2023. What makes the site impressive isn't just the architecture, but the beautiful setting and the reverence with which it is treated by the Japanese. Only priests are allowed within the walls of the shrines, yet more than 1 million people visit them every year. Kongoshoji is another interesting temple in the area, with a graceful moon bridge (named for its distinctive arched shape) and a trail lined with decorated poles that people have erected as memorials for deceased family members. Also nearby is Jingu Kaikan, the great hall where a major sumo-wrestling tournament is held each spring. Ise-Shima is easily reached from Nagoya (90 minutes by train). 75 mi/ 120 km east of Osaka.

The most impressive site in this ancient city and religious center is the photogenic Daibutsu, a giant 120-ton/108-metric ton bronze statue of the Buddha. The statue has an amazing history: Cast in the 13th century, it originally was housed in a temple about a mile/kilometer farther inland. In 1495, a giant tsunami washed the temple away, and since then the Diabutsu has sat in the open. Kamakura also offers scores of ancient shrines and temples, many of them scattered in the hills that surround the city on three sides. The imposing Tsurugaoka Hachimangu shrine is in the center of town; Zeni-arai Benten (the "money-washing" shrine) is also a favorite pilgrimage spot; Engakuji is one of the oldest and most important Zen monasteries in Japan; and Tokeiji (the Bamboo Temple) is also an atmospheric site. The Kanagawa Modern Art Museum, in the precinct of Tsurugaoka Hachimangu, was designed by a Japanese student of Le Corbusier. Kamakura also boasts one of the closest beaches to Tokyo. You can take a ride on the Enoden, a railway that is part train, part streetcar that runs along the coast from Kamakura to Enoshima, a traditional pilgrimage spot, and then to Fujisawa, southwest of Yokohama—this journey will give you unique glimpses of the hills and ocean (and some people's backyards). 30 mi/50 km south of Tokyo.

Located on the remote coast of the Sea of Japan, this city isn't easy to reach. From Tokyo, there are only two direct trains per day-taking six hours-but it's well worth the effort. This reconstructed, classic castle town (only the gate of the original castle still stands) offers streets of samurai houses and two geisha quarters. Visit the Nomura Family House, an atmospheric old samurai residence, and stroll through the Higashi geisha district. An old geisha house called Ochaya Shima is open to the public. Don't miss Kenroku-en, which was once the castle lord's private garden, now one of the most distinguished landscape gardens in the country. We like the garden best early in the morning, before the crowds arrive (the garden opens at 7 am in summer, 8 am in winter). The city also has a long tradition of fine craftsmanship. Watch the production of gold leaf at Yasue Gold Leaf Museum, pottery at Kosen Kiln and hand-painted silk kimono fabric at Saihitsu-an Silk-Dyeing Center. Kanazawa is also the jumping-off point for the beautiful and still unspoiled Noto Peninsula, renowned for its seafood and fine Wajima lacquer. 180 mi/290 km northwest of Tokyo.

We almost hate to spread the word about this wonderful town perched high atop sacred Mount Koya in southwestern Honshu. It's well-known to the Japanese—thousands of Buddhist pilgrims make the rounds of its wealth of temples—but few Western visitors ever see it. In addition to the acres/hectares of religious architecture, Koyasan is also the site of Okunoin Cemetery, where Japan's highest-ranking dignitaries traditionally have been laid to rest: Tombs of samurai, lords, shoguns and emperors can be found among the 200,000 graves.

Half the pleasure of visiting Koyasan is getting there. The trip begins on the express Nankai electric railway from Osaka, passing through a beautiful gorge. Travelers then board a cog railway that ratchets itself up the steep mountain. The journey through stunning scenery is finished by automobile (keep an eye out for shrines, stupas, pagodas and temples along the roadside). You're likely to stay in one of the dozens of temple inns, luxury houses that offer hot baths and vegetarian meals. Also in the vicinity is Katsuragi-cho (Fruit Town), where you can pay a small fee to pick your own grapes, kiwis and apples in the public orchards (you must eat your bounty while there). Not too far from the orchards is the Negoroji Temple complex, interesting for its all-wood construction (though it once held 3,000 temples, only a few remain). We advise against visiting during winter, as the mountains there can be very cold and snowy. 40 mi/65 km south of Osaka.

If you can visit only one city in Japan, Kyoto is the one. This ancient city was the capital of Japan for more than a thousand years and still is considered the country's spiritual capital. Kyoto is graced with an abundance of temples, palaces, gardens and museums (as well as plenty of tourists, so expect crowds).

Try to budget three nights for Kyoto. However, if you're short on time, concentrate on three sites: the Golden Pavilion, Nijo Castle and the Kiyomizu Temple. You can see them all by city bus, but taxi fare between them is not prohibitively expensive. There are also bus tours that will give you a glimpse of all three sites and others, though probably not with sufficient time to contemplate them in depth.

The Golden Pavilion (Kinkakuji) is impressive: Each of its three stories reflects a different architectural style, but what most people remember is that it's covered in gold leaf. The small lake nearby adds to the glimmer. No one is allowed inside, but you can take pictures. The actual building is a perfect reconstruction, erected after a disaffected monk set fire to the original, centuries-old wooden structure in 1950. Don't miss the classic teahouse that's nestled in the trees nearby—it has a celebrated, rough-hewn central pillar.

At the 17th-century Nijo Castle, you can see the architecture change as you go from the most public spaces to the private chambers of the shogun. There's an imaginative security system, too: The floorboards were deliberately built to squeak when walked upon (a sound poetically compared to the call of nightingales), thereby impeding attempts to eavesdrop upon or assassinate those inside.

Kiyomizu Temple, on a hillside at the east edge of the city, is famous both for its waterfall and for the stunning view from its vast wooden terrace. The temple is particularly beautiful in April, when cherry blossoms abound, and in November, when maple leaves show their autumn colors. After your visit, stroll through the narrow lanes of traditional houses, boutiques and stores below the temple—the area is famed for its pottery shops.

Among the many other stops you should make in Kyoto is the Nanzenji Temple, which has a pretty view of the city. From there, stroll down the Philosopher's Walk (a footpath along a canal lined with cherry trees) to the Ginkakuji (called the Silver Pavilion, though the plan to cover it in silver was never carried out). Ginkakuji has a pretty garden with a stylized version of Mount Fuji crafted from sand.

Another wonder is the Sanjusan-gendo, a hall built in 1266 that's famous for its 1,000-handed statue of Kannon, a representation of Buddha usually known as the Goddess of Mercy. The main statue in the hall is surrounded by 1,000 smaller statues of the same deity. If you can pull yourself away from the multifaceted Kannon, take a look at the statues of the 28 Faithful Followers, represented as a bizarre mixture of animals and humans (the facial expressions are wild).

Kyoto also is famed for its rock gardens, with their carefully raked gravel and asymmetrically placed stones. Among the best-known is the garden at Ryoanji Temple, with 15 rocks arranged in five groups on white sand. Some observers say the design symbolizes islands, or a mother tiger and her cubs swimming toward a fearful dragon. But it was designed for contemplating in Zen meditation, and its meaning and symbolism are entirely in the eye (and mind) of the beholder.

Visiting the Imperial Palace requires a permit, but don't let that put you off. Foreigners need only turn up with their passports at the office in the Palace Park an hour or so before the free English-language tours (weekdays at 10 am and 2 pm), and admittance will be granted. The complex is impressive yet austere—in modern Japan, it's hard to imagine that emperors lived (like everyone else) in unheated wooden buildings.

At night, stroll through Pontocho, the traditional nighttime entertainment spot. This narrow little street may be the most romantic street in Japan. You might even see a geisha (or a maiko—a young apprentice) scurrying to a theatrical performance or an assignation at a local bar. Fans of Arthur Golden's novel Memoirs of a Geisha might like to stroll around the Gion neighborhood, where the story was set. It's also possible to be dressed and made up as a geisha in studios catering (mostly) to Japanese women. Contact the tourist office for details.

The Traditional and Japanese Arts Theater presents authentic demonstrations of flower arranging (ikebana), court music, kyogen farces and the tea ceremony. We especially liked the National Museum, which exhibits ancient porcelain, lacquerware, swords and kimonos. If you'd like to buy modern versions of these crafts, stop by the Kyoto Handicraft Center, which has six floors of shops.

Even if you don't arrive in Kyoto by train, you can't help but notice the train station. It's one of the most imposing modern buildings in the country. Many people opposed its construction, especially traditionalists concerned about its impact on such a historic city. By the time you get to the top of the 11-story escalator (you can get off at each level or just keep going up and up), you'll realize they've built a mountainous modern mall in the middle of Japan's spiritual heart. There are plenty of shops and restaurants, and the tourist-information booth there is very helpful.

If you tire of the crowds, get a map from the tourist office and take a short ride on one of the local trains to scenic spots in the mountains around the city. Arashiyama (to the northwest), Fushimi (to the southeast) and Ohara (to the northeast) are particularly pleasant areas to explore.

Those interested in temples should make a stop-off in Uji on the way to Nara, home of the 1,000-year-old Byodoin Temple. This temple among the tea plantations to the south of Kyoto has a phoenix theme: The building is shaped like the mythical bird and has two bronze phoenix statues perched on opposite sides of the roof (these are reproductions—the originals are in the nearby Homotsukan Treasure House). The temple and the statue of Amitabha Buddha inside are considered national treasures.

If it fits your schedule, ride on the bullet train between Kyoto and Tokyo—it really is fun. 30 mi/50 km northeast of Osaka.

This city on the shore of Lake Shinji, famed for its gorgeous sunsets, has much to offer. Its sinister-looking black castle is a 17th-century original—not a reconstruction—that broods over moats lined with pine trees and a street of restored samurai houses. An enjoyable way to see this watery town is by taking a boat tour through the canals. Hot springs and a couple of nice teahouses are additional treats in the area. Matsue's famous adopted son is Lafcadio Hearn, an Irish-American writer who settled there in the late 1800s, married a samurai's daughter and wrote 14 books that introduced Japanese culture to the Western world. Don't miss his residence (a charming samurai house) and the adjacent museum.

Also in the area, Izumo is home to the Izumo Taisha Shrine, one of the oldest Shinto sites in Japan. Tradition says that during the 10th month of the lunar calendar (late October-early November), all of Japan's Shinto gods vacation in this shrine. On both sides of the main shrine are long shelters that serve as "guesthouses" for the visiting gods. The main shrine is one of the largest in the country. Matsue is 110 mi/180 km north of Hiroshima.

This almost perfectly conical volcano is a familiar symbol of Japan. It is 12,388 ft/3,774 m high and beautifully snow-capped in winter. Ascending the mountain in summer does not require any special mountain-climbing skills or equipment. Five trails lead to the summit; each has 10 rest stations along the way. The vast majority of climbers take a bus halfway to the top and begin hiking from the fifth station (the climb from there to the summit takes five to six hours). Starting from the bottom is tricky because lower sections of the trails are signposted only in Japanese. Very basic dormitory accommodation is provided in shelters; take as much food and water as you can carry to avoid prices bordering on extortion (US$3 for a pint/half-liter of water). Though the hike is quite strenuous, we found it to be a fascinating encounter with this country, and, if you are lucky with the weather, the view is spectacular.

The best views are usually at sunrise or sunset (clouds often cloak Fuji's peak during the day in summer). Most people hike up at night (take a flashlight and warm clothes) or overnight at one of the stations. Basic huts (meals provided) should be booked in advance through the Japan National Tourist Organization. Daytime hikers should avoid the trek on Sunday, when Japanese nature-lovers clog the trails (don't be surprised by the mountains of litter along the way). The season for climbing is from the beginning of July until the end of August.

Other scenic areas close to Mount Fuji include the Fuji Five Lakes (beautiful scenery); the Izu Peninsula (hot springs resorts, beaches and picturesque fishing villages); Hakone (small mountains with hot spring resorts, forest hiking, the Open Air Sculpture Museum and a large lake); and the Seven Isles of Izu (tiny volcanic islands with beaches and good snorkeling). 70 mi/115 km southwest of Tokyo.

This ancient port city was destroyed by the second atomic bomb dropped by U.S. forces in World War II. Today, this city on the western coast of Kyushu, the southernmost of Japan's main islands, is a thriving industrial port and a pleasant mixture of East and West, as well as a confluence of Japanese and Chinese cultures. There are a number of sites memorializing the destruction that occurred on 9 August 1945—the must-see Atomic Bomb Museum, the ruins of Urakami Cathedral (once Asia's largest church), Peace Park and a black stone obelisk that marks ground zero. Other sites in the city include the Glover Mansion (the setting of Puccini's Madame Butterfly), which has a lovely garden providing some of the best views of the area, as well as Oranda Hill (beautiful flowers and another nice view). If you happen to be there during the Obon (Festival of the Dead) season in mid-August, stick around to watch the dragon-boat races, where 28 eight-man teams aboard sleek canoes paddle measured (but furious) strokes in the races, chanting to the beat of drums and gongs. A day trip can be made to the village of Arita, known for its distinctive handmade porcelain.

Beyond Nagasaki, there are several other places on Kyushu that are worth a look. Beppu has exciting nightlife and is a great place to relax at a hot-springs spa (complete with geysers and mud baths). When visiting the fumaroles and geysers in the Kannawa section of Beppu, don't miss the shrine devoted to fertility and procreation located near the Ashiya Hotel: It's like a combination museum/fun house, with historical, cultural and whimsical exhibits pertaining to sex.

Kagoshima is situated at the southernmost tip of Kyushu. It's dominated by the view of (and sometimes ash fallout from) volcanic Mount Sakurajima, located on an island in the center of Kagoshima Bay. It is also the jumping-off point for the subtropical islands that lie between Kyushu and Okinawa (most notably Yakushima, a UNESCO-designated World Heritage Site for its massive, ancient stands of cedar trees.

Fukuoka, about a three-hour train ride northeast of Nagasaki, is the largest city in Kyushu and is surrounded by plenty of industry. Besides its local crafts (including silk and Hakata dolls), the city is noted for its annual festival (plan to overnight there). Other Kyushu sites worth mentioning are Mount Aso National Park, site of the largest active volcano in the world; Takachiho Gorge, the legendary cradle of Japanese civilization; and Kirishima Yaku National Park, a chain of volcanoes with excellent hiking trails. Nagasaki is 594 mi/956 km southwest of Tokyo.

Japan's fourth-largest city was almost completely destroyed during the war, but today it's a bustling city. There is little of interest to visitors—even the Atsuta Shrine, which holds one of the three sacred Japanese regalia (stored out of sight), is a modern reconstruction. The 17th-century wooden castle in Nagoya was largely destroyed by U.S. bombing raids—the modern replica is cast in concrete. However, Nagoya is a good base for exploring nearby destinations—including original feudal castles. To the south is the Ise-Shima National Park (also listed in this report) and Mikimoto Island, where you can watch pearl diving and shop for pearls. To the north is the Kiso River area, where the adventurous can ride the rapids in flat-bottomed boats guided by oarsmen. Meiji Village is a living museum of 19th-century buildings from throughout Japan, including the reassembled frontage and lobby of the original Imperial Hotel, designed by Frank Lloyd Wright. Nearby is Inuyama and Inuyama Castle, which is the oldest surviving fortress in Japan (built in 1440 and preserved in its original state).

Takayama, about 70 mi/115 km northeast of Nagoya, is an isolated country town known as "Little Kyoto." Lack of farmland in this mountainous region forced residents to turn to crafts as a means of support, and the town still is known for woodwork and lacquerware. Takayama itself is best seen by foot, bicycle or rickshaw; it's filled with shrines, bridges, museums, breweries, boutiques and markets. Don't miss Shorenji Temple (built in 1504) just outside town—the garden and surroundings are breathtaking. You should also spend at least half a day at Hida Folk Village, about a 20-minute walk from town. It's a collection of towering thatch-roofed houses and other buildings brought in from around the region, and locals demonstrate wood carving, weaving and other local handicrafts there. Other nearby attractions in the Hida Mountains, often known as the Northern Japan Alps, include the Shirakawa-go area (lovely scenery and more thatch-roofed villages—some of which you can stay in); Matsumoto famed for its samurai fortress known as the Black Crow Castle); and Nagano, a ski area best-known as the site of the 1998 Winter Olympics (and also home to a massive Buddhist temple). Nagoya is 70 mi/115 km east of Kyoto.

One of the earliest capitals of Japan, Nara makes an interesting day trip—or preferably overnight visit—from Kyoto. The ancient architecture of Nara is well worth seeing, especially Todaiji Temple. The temple qualifies for two mentions in Guinness World Records: Its Buddha is the largest bronze statue in the world, and its main structure is the world's largest wooden building. (It's dark inside the building, so the Buddha is difficult to photograph—buy postcards, instead.) The temple sits in a huge park where small deer have free rein—they mingle with visitors, mooching biscuits that you can buy from vendors for a few yen. These deer can get fairly aggressive—one ate not only the biscuit we offered but also a big chunk of our city map.

Another delight is Kasuga Shrine, festooned with thousands of paper lanterns. The shrine is next to Kofukuji, a complex built in 1426 with a dramatic five-story pagoda. The Nara National Museum, renowned for its ancient sword collection, also hosts special exhibitions of the priceless antiquities that have been stored in the Shoso-in treasure chamber since the eighth century, many of which show influences from the other end of the ancient Silk Road (every May and November).

Nara also has a modern face. Along its pedestrian-friendly streets you'll find open-air souvenir shops, as well as department stores selling the latest fashions and music. Make sure to explore Nara-machi, a quiet neighborhood of old wooden merchant houses now sprinkled with antiques shops, galleries and small museums.

Just outside Nara is Horyuji, one of the most important temples in Japan. The temple was built around 607 by Prince Shotoku (who promoted Buddhism as a national religion and whose picture appears on the ¥10,000 currency). The central pagoda and some of the original wooden structures are still standing. 20 mi/30 km east of Osaka or 25 mi/45 km south of Kyoto.

This city, set amid mountains, usually is seen as a day trip from Tokyo. Numerous shrines and pagodas are nearby, the best-known being Toshogu Shrine, which houses the mausoleum of the first Tokugawa shogun. The shrine has an unusual mixture of Confucian, Zen and Shinto architecture. Toshogu is the original site of the see-no-evil, hear-no-evil, speak-no-evil monkeys (you will find them carved on one of the gates). Also in this area are two waterfalls (Kegon and Dragon's Head Cascade) and Nikko Edo Mura, a theme-park replica of a feudal village that offers martial arts performances. It's popular with children. Nikko Western Village, another amusement park, is interesting for its rather goofy depictions of the U.S. Old West. There is good hiking in the area above Nikko and plenty of hot springs.

Watch out for the growing population of monkeys roaming the area—some have identified the contents of vehicles and backpacks as handy sources of snack food. These monkeys can be fairly aggressive, and they've been known to climb through open windows to ransack the contents of cars and rooms. Concerns about an unchecked increase in their population prompted Nikko's city government to impose a ban on feeding them. It's best not to get too close—they may look cuddly, but they have sharp teeth. 75 mi/120 km north of Tokyo.

Osaka Japan and the surrounding Kansai region are the country's spiritual heartland. The site of one of the earliest capitals of the country, Osaka remains a vital center for trade and entrepreneurial culture. Tokyo may have political and financial clout and Kyoto may be the repository of ancient tradition, but Osaka is the nation's honest heartbeat.

In the mid-1990s, Osaka city officials embarked upon a long-term commitment to overhaul the city's grimy and nondescript image. The skyline has since risen dramatically, and so has its profile. Stylish high-rise apartment and office buildings are no longer an oddity (particularly in Umeda, Osaka's north-central district). The architectural renaissance is bolstering Osaka's role as one of the world's most energetic cities. Indeed, it has a vibrancy that is seldom matched elsewhere in Japan. The historic areas—the castle and the shrines—are modern reconstructions, but that cannot negate Osaka's long contribution to Japanese arts and culture. The tea ceremony, flower arrangement (ikebana) and the performing arts of Bunraku, Kabuki and Noh all have their roots in the city. Osaka is known for its writers, artists, musicians and comedians.

And so Osaka's true character lies in its people. In Japan, Osakans have a reputation for being straightforward and even brash. They're hardworking but just as intent on having fun, and it is among them that the true appeal of this fascinating city can be found.

Until 1879, the subtropical islands that constitute Japan's southernmost prefecture were a separate (though vassal) kingdom, and the culture shows close affinities with China and Southeast Asia. During the closing days of World War II, the Ryukyu Islands were the site of some of the most hard-fought battles, and many war memorials are in evidence. Okinawa remained occupied until 1972, and large tracts of the main island are still host to U.S. military installations.

Naha, on Okinawa's main island, is the prefectural capital. It has a large market, selling seafood, vegetables and local artifacts. Other tourist sites include the rebuilt Shuri Castle (once home to the Ryukyu ruling family) and its ancient gate, the Shurei-no-Mon. However, for most visitors, the main reason for visiting the islands is to enjoy the beaches and assorted watersports, including diving.

The more remote islands of Ishigaki, Miyako, Taketomi and Iriomote can be visited by boat (or plane) from Okinawa, with Ishigaki serving as the best base for exploring the area. We liked Ishigaki and Iriomote, but found Miyako to be a little too touristy.

Those interested in World War II history should go to Tomigusuku on Okinawa, where the Imperial Navy had its underground headquarters and where 4,000 officers and men committed suicide rather than surrender to U.S. forces. Plan three nights to see these islands. Okinawa lies 960 mi/1,545 km southwest of Tokyo.

Sapporo is familiar to millions around the world as the site of the 1972 Winter Olympics—and to millions more as the home of the Sapporo beer brewery. This Hokkaido island city is one of the most modern in Japan (most buildings are less than 100 years old). In our opinion, it's not worth going out of your way to see—unless a visit coincides with the February Snow Festival in Odori Park. At that time, residents make giant ice carvings that last for several weeks (Sapporo is not a place for those with thin blood—it's easily as cold as Montreal in the winter). Other attractions include the Ainu Museum, which depicts the life and culture of Hokkaido's indigenous people, Daisetsusan National Park and the nearby Noboribetsu Spa. Take the train from Tokyo and you'll go through the Seikan Tunnel (at 34 mi/55 km, it's one of the longest underwater tunnels in the world). 515 mi/830 km northeast of Tokyo.

Japan's fourth largest island is its most rural and least developed. Its temples have been a pilgrimage destination for the past 1,000 years. Every spring and fall, devout Buddhists begin a two-month pilgrimage, visiting each of the island's 88 temples on foot. The island is very picturesque and off the beaten track—a look at the "real Japan." Dogo Onsen Hot Spring, in Matsuyama, is a lovely spa. We enjoyed tea and sweets in the elegant private rooms after relaxing in the marble baths. Nearby, Uchiko is a perfectly preserved village that once produced candles used in every Japanese home. The opulence of the buildings is a testament to the wealth produced by this industry. North of Kyushu is the Isamu Noguchi Garden Museum, near Takamatsu, commemorating the work of the Japanese-American designer and sculptor. Another museum worth the side trip in Kagawa Prefecture is the Naoshima Contemporary Art Museum, on an island in the Seto Inland Sea, whose remarkable underground design is the work of the noted architect Tadao Ando. 60 mi/95 km southwest of Osaka.

Tokyo presents a different view at every turn. It's one of the world's main economic centers, and its most populous agglomeration. The business of Tokyo is business, but you can still find harmony and small-scale gardens on back streets. Around the corner from neon and concrete, you may find the bonsai-lined courtyard of a traditional inn.

Tokyo was nearly destroyed by bombs and fires during World War II, and by earthquakes at other times, but it has always rebuilt itself. As a result, there is little left of Old Japan, but there's plenty of New Japan to take its place.

The streets are a confusing maze, so a map is essential. The transit system is excellent, however, and there are kobans (police boxes) throughout the metropolis, as well as a populace generally willing to help answer questions.

Because of the language barrier, most visitors to Tokyo are there on business, but there is plenty for leisure travelers to see. And despite its reputation, Tokyo doesn't have to be fearsomely expensive. With some planning, it's possible to visit Tokyo on a reasonable budget.

This important port city was one of the first places where European and U.S. traders were allowed to settle in Japan. After the massive Kanto Earthquake of 1923 and bombing during World War II, little remains of its early days as a treaty port, but today the city bustles with ships from all over the world loading and unloading cargo; it's possible to take a harbor tour by boat for a firsthand inspection. There's not a lot for tourists to see and do in Yokohama, but among the city sights are the Silk Museum (in the Silk Center) and the Yamate Museum, with exhibits relating to the city's foreign community. Stroll the streets of Chinatown and then see the view from the Marine Tower. Shoppers may want to visit the upscale Motomachi district-prices there are lower than Tokyo's. In general, Yokohama is less hectic than Tokyo, and there are several peaceful places of refuge, among them Yamashita Park, Sankeien Gardens and the International Cemetery, which offers nice views of the sunset. Plan one full day in Yokohama. 20 mi/32 km southwest of Tokyo on Tokyo Bay.