Destination Guidebook for Mexico City, Distrito Federal, Mexico
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Mexico City is an exciting combination of Aztec, colonial and modern art and architecture. It's also a huge, sprawling city, so try to focus on one area at a time. Start at the Plaza de la Constitucion, or Zocalo, the city's main square. The Presidential Palace, with its famous Diego Rivera murals, and the Metropolitan Cathedral flank two sides of it. The surrounding Centro Historico (Historic Center), a 500-block virtual museum of colonial architecture, was built on ruins of the Aztec capital, Tenochtitlan. The Templo Mayor, one block from the Zocalo, is the most important relic of that period. Artifacts unearthed at the site are displayed in the adjacent Museo del Templo Mayor.
Alameda Central is a downtown oasis of greenery, fountains and statuary. The imposing Palacio de Bellas Artes, a performing-arts venue and a must-see for its art-deco interior and elegant dome, is next to the park. Between Alameda Central and the Zocalo are several impressive buildings and museums, including the Palacio de Iturbide (an Italianate baroque palace), Casa de Azulejos (the House of Tiles), the Correo Central (the lovely main post office), the Museo Nacional de Arte (a grand building with Mexican art exhibits) and Museo Franz Mayer (religious art and European antiques). In the daytime, the park itself is patrolled by police on horseback who are dressed to look like charros, traditional Mexican cowboys.
Modern skyscrapers and hotels flank the stately Paseo de la Reforma, which runs from Centro Historico to Chapultepec Park. Take an afternoon stroll along the tree-lined boulevard, looking at its various monuments, especially the famous Angel of Independence column. Along the way is the Zona Rosa, a neighborhood popular for shopping, dining and nightlife. Chapultepec Park is not only the city's largest park, but it's also home to many fine museums, such as the world-renowned Museo Nacional de Antropologia (National Museum of Anthropology), which we highly recommend. Two neighborhoods just south of Chapultepec Park and Zona Rosa, La Condesa and Roma, are also worth a visit. They're packed with lovely tree-lined streets that are home to cafes, bars and upscale restaurants, as well as tranquil parks and plazas.
Two areas south of the Historic Center, Coyoacan and San Angel, are worth visiting for their markets, museums and general colonial charm. The famous floating gardens at Xochimilco are a pleasant excursion. (Xochimilco is about an hour south of the Historic Center, but is still officially part of Mexico City—remember, the city is enormous.) Xochimilco is also home to the Dolores Olmedo Patino Museum, which displays some of the best-known works of artists Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo. The not-to-be-missed Pyramids of Teotihuacan, north of the city, make for a fascinating day trip. | Historic Sites | Top  |
This shrine to Mexico's patron saint is one of the holiest places in the country. It's built on the site where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to peasant Juan Diego in 1531. Her image was miraculously imprinted on his homespun cloak, which hangs behind the altar of the church. The original church was built in 1709. When it began to sink into the swampy subsoil, a new basilica was constructed on the same plaza and was consecrated in 1976. Visitors are welcome to visit the church 6 am-8 pm. The basilica museum is open Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. Entrance to the basilica is free; museum admission is M$5. Plaza de las Americas 1 (near the La Villa metro station), Col. Villa de Guadalupe, Mexico City. Phone 5577-6022. http://www.virgendeguadalupe.org.mx. This is the largest cathedral in Latin America, begun in 1567 and constructed over a period of 250 years. Built in a fanciful baroque style known as churrigueresque, it's filled with exquisite details and has many small, lavishly embellished chapels. It also boasts one of the largest organs in the world—concerts are given on special occasions. The cathedral is sinking into the swampy soil beneath it and tilts to one side, which is clearly visible from the outside. Recent renovations have halted the sinking. Daily 8 am-8 pm. Free. On the north side of the Zocalo, Centro Historico, Mexico City. The Angel of Independence monument, a gilded statue of a winged Victory atop a 150-ft/46-m column, is one of the most beloved (and photographed) landmarks in the city. Paseo de la Reforma (at the intersection with avenidas Florencia and Rio Tiber, near the Zona Rosa), Mexico City. The gracious Palace of Fine Arts is a must-see whether you attend a performance, visit an art exhibition or simply take in the spectacular architecture. The art-deco building (with pre-Hispanic reliefs) was designed by renowned Italian architect Adamo Boari at the beginning of the 20th century. The interior is decorated with murals by Rivera, Tamayo, Siqueiros and Orozco, and the concert hall has a dazzling beaded-glass stage curtain by Tiffany that depicts the Valley of Mexico. Open to visitors Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. M$35 adults. Free on Sunday. Ave. Hidalgo 1 (at the eastern end of Alameda Central, Bellas Artes metro station), Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5512-2593. http://www.cnca.gob.mx/cnca/buena/inba/palaciobartes/palacioba.html. This 18th-century mansion, which boasts a baroque Italianate facade, sweeping columns and delicate ornamentation, was once the residence of the Spanish vice-regents and later of Agustin de Iturbide, the general who drove them out of Mexico. Now meticulously restored, the Banamex-owned building houses a cultural center that sponsors art exhibitions and educational events. Daily 10 am-7 pm. Free. Calle de Madero 17, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 1226-0091. http://www.banamex.com.mx/esp/filiales/fomento_cultural/palaciocultura.htm. The National Palace, commissioned by Hernan Cortes, contains the federal treasury and the national archives. It used to house the offices of the Mexican president. The main reason to go inside is to see some of Diego Rivera's best-known murals, colorful depictions of Mexico City's long history from before the Spanish conquest to the 20th century. To do so, go to the main portal and show some form of picture ID to the guards. Daily 9 am-6 pm. Free. Avenida Pino Suarez (facing the Zocalo), Centro Historico, Mexico City. Emperor Maximilian wanted a direct path between the Historic Center and his palace in Chapultepec Park, so he laid out this famous boulevard with Paris' Champs Elysees in mind. Today, office buildings and hotels rise above the tree-lined promenades and glorietas (traffic circles), but it's still a nice place to stroll and look at the many monuments, fountains and statues of Mexican heroes. Recent renovations have spruced up the avenue, adding new benches, lighting and trees. When this Empire State Building look-alike was completed in 1956, it was the tallest building in Latin America. Its 43 stories tower above the Historic Center. The restaurant and observation deck on the top and windowed stories just beneath (one of which houses a small cafe and gift shop) afford good views of the city on a clear day. The tower, which is owned by Seguros Latinoamerica—a large insurance firm—now features a museum on the 38th floor. The museum is small but has many fascinating photos on display. Daily 9 am-10 pm. M$50 adults (includes museum admission). Lazaro Cardenas 2 (at Madero, Bellas Artes metro station), Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5518-7423. http://www.ociopuro.org/torre. The Plaza de la Constitucion, commonly referred to as the Zocalo, is the second-largest plaza in the world (surpassed only by Red Square in Moscow). It's also the heart of the Centro Historico and of the entire city, as well as the main venue for national celebrations and political protests. On most days you can see dancers performing and vendors peddling their wares. The plaza is flanked by avenidas Pino Suarez, 5 de Febrero, 16 de Septiembre and Madero. Centro Historico. Built in 1947 by noted Mexican modernist architect Luis Barragan as his home, this unique building is now open to the public. A selection of Mexican art is also on display, as are temporary exhibits. Monday-Saturday by appointment. M$100. Calle General Francisco Ramirez 14, Col. Tacubaya, Mexico City. Phone 5515-4908. A contemporary photography gallery near Alameda Park, Centro de la Imagen offers temporary exhibits from both Mexican and international photographers. Call before visiting, as the museum is closed between exhibits. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-6 pm. Free. Plaza de la Ciudadela 2, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 9172-4724. http://www.conaculta.gob.mx/cimagen. This history museum is housed on the grounds of Chapultepec Castle and is also known as the Caracol (snail) for its winding layout. It is filled with hundreds of paintings, murals, ceramics, furniture and carriages depicting the history of Mexico from the time of the Aztecs to the modern day, with an emphasis on the colonial era and military history. We recommend prearranging a guided tour of the castle: The rooms and exhibits are more interesting when viewed with some historical explanation. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-4:15 pm. M$37. In Chapultepec Park on the corner of Avenida Gandhi, with an entrance on Paseo de la Reforma, Mexico City. Phone 5061-9241. Eugenio Lopez, the heir to the Jumex juice empire, has established a respected gallery of contemporary art adjoining the company's headquarters. Located on the outskirts of Mexico City, on the way to the town of Pachuca. Monday-Friday 10 am-5 pm with appointment. Km 19.5 Antigua Carretera Mexico-Pachuca, Col. Santa Maria Tulpetiac, Ecatepec De Morelos. Phone 5775-8188. http://www.lacoleccionjumex.org. A permanent display of Diego Rivera's huge collection of pre-Hispanic pieces. The impressive building is made entirely of volcanic rock and was designed by Rivera himself. It's in the shape of a pyramid, a tribute to Maya and Aztec cultures. Call first, as the museum is undergoing restorations, which are expected to be completed in 2008. Tuesday-Sunday 10:30 am-5 pm. M$45 adults. Hourly tours. Calle del Museo 150, Coyoacan, Mexico City. Phone 5617-4310. Mexican architect and painter Juan O'Gorman built these two houses, joined by an aerial walkway, in the charming San Angel neighborhood for Rivera and Kahlo in 1934. The couple lived there—in separate houses—for six years, until their divorce in 1940. Though the pair later remarried, only Rivera returned to live and work there. The museum contains some of Rivera's artwork and a lot of memorabilia. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. M$7 adults, free on Sunday. Calle Diego Rivera 2, Col. San Angel (on the corner of Altavista), Mexico City. Phone 5550-1189. http://www.cnca.gob.mx/cnca/buena/inba/subbellas/museos/rivera1.html. Hidden away in the heart of the Chapultepec forest, this museum can be difficult to find but is worth the time. Bright and spacious, it has a collection of works by famed Oaxacan painter Rufino Tamayo (but they aren't always on display). Temporary exhibits include both important international art and lesser-known works by Mexican artists. Most work leans toward the modernist and cutting-edge. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. M$15 adults. Free on Sunday. In Chapultepec Park, at the corner of Paseo de la Reforma and Gandhi (Chapultepec metro station), Mexico City. Phone 5286-6519 or 5286-6529. http://www.museotamayo.org. This modern-art museum has permanent exhibitions of Mexican contemporary art by Rivera, Siqueiros, O'Gorman and Cuevas, to name a few. It also hosts temporary exhibits from around the world. A pleasant sculpture garden surrounds the museum. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5:30 pm. M$20 adults, free on Sunday. In Chapultepec Park, at the corner of Reforma and Gandhi (Chapultepec or Auditorio metro station), Mexico City. Phone 5211-8331 or 5211-7827. http://www.conaculta.gob.mx/mam. This 16th-century hospital has been beautifully restored and contains an extraordinary collection of religious art in gold and silver, as well as rare books and European antiques, which belonged to German collector Franz Mayer. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm (Wednesday till 7 pm). M$35 adults. Free on Tuesday. Ave. Hidalgo 45, Plaza de la Santa Veracruz (behind Alameda Central, near the Bellas Artes metro station), Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5518-2266. http://www.franzmayer.org.mx. In 1978, workmen laying a telephone cable discovered the ruins of the ancient Aztec capital. Walls of temples and giant sculptures of warriors, the goddess of the moon and the god of war, along with thousands of other artifacts, suddenly came to light. The Museo de Templo Mayor, which houses all these treasures, was built on the site. You can view the excavation from the street level or, as part of your paid museum admission, walk through it. English-speaking guides are available at no charge. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. M$45 adults. M$30 additional for an English audio tour. Free on Sunday for Mexican citizens and foreign residents of Mexico. Seminario 8 (Zocalo metro station), Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5542-4943. Phone 5542-4784 to reserve an English-speaking guide. http://www.conaculta.gob.mx/templomayor. Housed in a renovated 16th-century hacienda, it contains some of the best-known works of Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo, as well as pre-Hispanic artifacts. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. M$35 adults, free on Tuesday. Ave. Mexico 5843, Col. La Noria (in the far south of the city, about 12 mi/19 km from the Zocalo), Xochimilco, Mexico City. Phone 5555-1221 or 5555-0891. http://www.museodoloresolmedo.org. The "Blue House" (Casa Azul) was Frida Kahlo's place of birth and death. She lived there for various periods throughout her life, and at times, with her husband, Diego Rivera. Russian revolutionary exile Leon Trotsky and his wife, Natalia, also lived there in the late 1930s: The Mexican government gave Trotsky refuge at the behest of leftists Rivera and Kahlo. On display are some of Kahlo's paintings, costumes and furniture, as well as many pieces of folk art and correspondence between the famous couple. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm. M$45. Londres 247, Coyoacan, Mexico City. Phone 5554-5999. http://www.museofridakahlo.org. Housed in a former convent, it has a permanent exhibition of erotic watercolors by iconoclastic painter and writer Jose Luis Cuevas as well as temporary exhibitions of contemporary art from around the world. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5:30 pm. M$10, free on Sunday for Mexican citizens. Academia 13, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5542-6198. http://www.museojoseluiscuevas.com.mx. If you have time to see only one museum in Mexico City, this world-renowned anthropology museum is the one to choose. The most fascinating exhibits include the Aztec calendar stone, giant stone Olmec heads from the jungles of Tabasco, treasures recovered from a sacred Maya well, a replica of a Maya ruler's tomb from Palenque and ethnological displays of rural Mexican life as it is still lived today. It also has a very good model of the location and layout of Tenochtitlan, which puts present-day Mexico City in perspective. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-7 pm. M$45. Free on Sunday. Tours after 7 pm can be arranged (phone 5553-6381 or 5553-6386). In Chapultepec Park at the corner of Reforma and Gandhi (Chapultepec metro station), Mexico City. Phone 5553-6266. http://www.mna.inah.gob.mx. Temporary exhibitions in addition to its permanent, exhaustive collection of Mexican art. Another reason to visit is to explore the ornate building, constructed at the turn of the 20th century in the style of an Italian Renaissance palace. Tuesday-Sunday 10:30 am-5:30 pm. M$30, free on Sunday. Tours in English can be arranged. Plaza Tolsa, Tacuba 8 (Allende metro station), Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5130-3403. This museum is housed in the Chapultepec Castle. Tour the former home of Emperor Maximilian and his wife, Carlota, and gaze at a wealth of relics from their brief reign and beyond. Old carriages, armor and artifacts are interesting, but just walking through the luxurious castle grounds is worth the trip. The museum can be very crowded on Sunday, when many Mexico City families spend the afternoon in the park. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. M$45 adults. Free on Sunday and to seniors older than 60, Mexican teachers and students with valid ID. Tours in English available. Chapultepec Park, Mexico City. Phone 5061-9215. An excellent place to see native handicrafts from different areas of Mexico. It also gives you a deeper understanding of Mexican popular culture, with temporary exhibits about subjects such as the circus, wrestling and traditional nativity scenes. Tuesday-Thursday 10 am-6 pm, Friday-Sunday 10 am-8 pm. Free. Ave. Hidalgo 289, Col. del Carmen, Coyoacan, Mexico City. Phone 9172-8840, ext. 126 and 111. http://www.culturaspopulareseindigenas.gob.mx. Technology meets education in this futuristic park for children and their parents. There's an interactive science museum where children can play with and touch exhibits; a 3-D IMAX theater with a giant screen showing special features and documentaries; the Domo Digital, which takes visitors on a guided tour of the stars and planets; and the Autobus Fantastico, which takes children on a virtual trip through wildlife habitats around the world. Monday-Friday 9 am-6 pm, with evening hours Thursday till 11 pm; Saturday and Sunday 10 am-7 pm. IMAX and Domo Digital showings run regularly when the museum is open. Museum admission M$85 adults, M$80 children younger than 12. M$25 for admission to Autobus Fantastico only; admission to Domo Digital M$75 adults, M$65 children younger than 12. IMAX shows M$75 adults, M$65 children younger than 12. Combination tickets are available. On weekends, buy tickets early to avoid waiting in line. Tickets are also available through Ticketmaster (phone 5325-9000; http://www.ticketmaster.com.mx). Constituyentes 268, in the second section of Chapultapec Park (Constituyentes metro station; entrance is next to the CFE Technology Museum), Mexico City. Phone 5237-1781. http://www.papalote.org.mx/papalotemuseo. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
A lovely green oasis in the heart of the city. Its focal point is the marble monument honoring 19th-century Mexico President Benito Juarez. The Palacio de Bellas Artes, on Avenida Juarez, is next to the park. For an artistic view of the park, go to the nearby Museo Mural Diego Rivera and see Rivera's mural Dream of a Sunday Afternoon in Alameda Park, which was salvaged from the earthquake-damaged Hotel del Prado. Chapultepec Park is a huge expanse of wooded areas, lakes with paddleboats, hiking trails, playgrounds, botanical gardens, amusement parks, a zoo and excellent museums. There are often toy and balloon vendors, dancers in ancient costumes and voladores (men "flying" in circles on ropes attached to the top of a tall pole). The park is divided into three sections. The first covers ground from the eastern edge of the park to Boulevard Mateos, the second extends west from there and the third comprises the westernmost section. The park is bounded by avenidas Paseo de Reforma and Constituyentes, which meet and then diverge at both the eastern and western extremes of the park. Main entrances are across from metro stops Chapultepec and Auditorio. Tuesday-Sunday 5 am-5 pm. Free. A small national park in the forested hills about 12 mi/20 km southwest of Mexico City. The main attraction is a nicely restored 17th-century Carmelite monastery, which now houses a museum. Inside there's also an elegant cafe. For more traditional fare, try the open-air food stalls where you can enjoy quesadillas or sopa de medula (bone-marrow soup) in an invigorating, pine-scented setting. There are several walking trails through the park, and you can rent horses, too. Birding is best in the morning hours. Don't go alone, however: Muggers sometimes hide in wait in the woods. Take a city bus from Tacubaya station or a coach from the Observatorio bus station. You can also drive there on the Toluca-Mexico City highway (you can take the limited-access toll road, but at M$100 for a 10-minute drive, it's reputed to be the world's most expensive stretch of road). Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-6 pm. Admission to the monastery M$5 (closed Monday), admission to the park M$30 per vehicle. A lovely city park on the edge of La Condesa, near Colonia Roma. It doesn't offer the expansive green space that you'll find in the Alameda or Chapultepec Park, but its well-tended paths and covered benches are alluring rest spots on a walk through the picturesque (and increasingly affluent) nearby neighborhoods. A popular picnic spot for Mexico City residents seeking to get away from it all without going too far, located about 4.5 mi/7 km southwest of the city. The park runs through a steep-sided river valley that was once the site of power generators, hence its name. It is thickly wooded and, although the city encroaches on its borders, it's easy to forget the outside world in the tranquil depths of the valley. From the upper reaches of the valley, you'll find a spectacular view of the city to the north. Rustic restaurants along the banks of the river serve quesadillas, hot chocolate and pulque, an alcoholic drink made with fermented agave juice (but not distilled, unlike tequila and mescal). To avoid being preyed upon by muggers, stay with a group and don't venture off into the woods alone. You can reach the park by city bus from the metro Universitario stop. By car, head south on the Periferico ring road until the Avenida Mexico exit; continue on this road until it ends (about a 20-minute drive). This park hosts the Jardin del Arte (Garden of Art), a delightful open-air art show that is a good place to purchase sculpture, oil paintings and watercolors of scenes of Mexico. (Remember that works of art are duty-free.) Artists display their works Sunday 11 am-6 pm, and there's usually a produce market held just south of the park. Northwest of the Reforma-Insurgentes intersection, between downtown and Zona Rosa, Mexico City. These famed floating gardens were created by the Xochimilco Indians. Within a network of canals, they constructed little islands on which fruits, vegetables and flowers were grown. Today, you can rent flat-bottomed barges (called trajineras, they're similar to gondolas) and be poled along the canals for a delightful experience. Aside from passenger barges, there are barges that carry bands of mariachis or marimbas ready to play requests (for a price), as well as vendors selling tacos, soft drinks and flowers. There are nine different docks from which you can rent a barge, as well as an attractive crafts market. We recommend that you book this or other tours to Xochimilco either with a tour company or through the very helpful tourist information kiosk next to the market. If you're driving, take the Viaducto Tlalpan to the south and follow the signs to Xochimilco. A boat that holds 14 people costs M$140 per hour, and a boat that holds 18 people costs M$160. The rate is per boat regardless of how many people are actually on it, and there are no smaller boats. These are officially sanctioned prices: If an operator attempts to charge you more, verify that the sanctioned price has increased across the board. http://www.xochimilco.df.gob.mx/turismo. | Zoos & Wildlife | Top |
The Chapultepec Zoo has clean, attractive enclosures that reflect the natural habitats of the animals on display. The primate section is particularly impressive, and the well-designed layout makes for a pleasant afternoon walk. The zoo boasts the world's first panda born in captivity. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-4:30 pm except 25 December and 1 January. It's crowded on weekends. Free. In Chapultepec Park near Reforma and Arquimedes, Mexico City. Phone 5553-6263. http://www.chapultepec.df.gob.mx. The climate in Mexico City is delightful for outdoor recreation—walking, jogging, golf, tennis, paddleboating— if the air-pollution level is not too high. (It's high in the winter months, especially in January.) Check the weather section of the local newspapers for pollution levels. If the levels are high, get your exercise in before 8 am or after 6 pm, when the levels are a bit lower. Keep in mind that Mexico City is at a high altitude and that it can be dangerous to participate in very strenuous activity in polluted conditions.
There are jogging trails in Chapultepec Park (but don't jog there alone), and you can run on most avenues of the city very early in the morning. You can rent bicycles by the hour in the first section of Chapultepec Park (Tuesday-Saturday). Most golf and tennis clubs are private, but some hotels offer guest privileges. If you enjoy swimming, make sure you stay in a hotel that has a pool: Public pools are far from the city center. Nine-hole course an hour north of the city. There is no need to book a tee time during the week, but make reservations for weekends, when the course fills up. Greens fees for visitors are M$300 during the week, M$600 on the weekend. Equipment rental is M$200, and a caddy can be hired for M$125 plus tip. Ave. San Jose 10, Col. San Juan Ixhuatepec, Tlalnepantla. Phone 5715-7329. Designed by Joe Finger, this 18-hole, par-72 course is approximately one hour north of Mexico City's center, in the state of Mexico. Call one day in advance to make sure that the course isn't booked. Tuesday-Sunday 7 am-7 pm. Greens fees for visitors are M$800 during the week, M$1,600 weekends and public holidays. Equipment rental M$200, caddy services M$250 plus tip. Avenida Guadalajara s/n, Fraccionamiento Campestre del Lago, Cuautitlan. Phone 5877-0676 or 5877-0678. Nightlife in Mexico City is lively and varied—supper clubs have excellent floor shows; discos, piano bars and bars offer traditional Mexican music. The most popular districts for nightlife are Polanco, San Angel, Coyoacan, Roma, Condesa and Zona Rosa.
In view of the lack of security in some places, some visitors to Mexico City enjoy the nightlife provided by their hotels. Another option is to join an organized nightclub tour, which can be convenient and inexpensive—you're picked up at your hotel and brought back by midnight for approximately M$770 per person, including a drink and dinner. If your hotel doesn't offer such a tour, it probably can recommend a trustworthy taxi service to drive you around for the night for M$150-$300 per hour—depending on your starting point, number in your party and the type of car.
Nightlife in Mexico starts late and ends late. Nine p.m. would be the suggested hour for dinner at a nightclub, and the shows usually don't start until 11 pm. Most clubs close around 3 am. When drinking alcohol, remember that, because of the high altitude, one drink in Mexico City can have the effect of two at lower altitudes. Also remember to guard your wallet. | Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
Mexico City might not seem a likely spot for an English-style pub, but the formula has made this bar one of the hottest spots in the Condesa in recent years. English speakers are easy to find in the crowd, and bangers and mash are on the menu. Live music most nights. Monday-Saturday 6 pm-2 am. Mexicali 85 (near Tamaulipas), Condesa, Mexico City. Phone 5211-8740. http://www.caballonegro.com. A hip place to imbibe mescal, the magical elixir of Oaxaca. Like tequila, mescal is derived from the agave plant, although the type of agave can vary. The stuff tends to be stronger and smokier than tequila—but as they say in Oaxaca, the second drink burns less than the first. Sunday-Wednesday 5 pm-midnight, Thursday-Saturday 5 pm-2 am. No cover. Campeche 396 (at Tamaulipas), Col. Condesa, Mexico City. Phone 5211-6045. This 19th-century establishment has long been a favorite bar and restaurant serving unremarkable international fare. Its margaritas are reputed to be the best in town, but that's no doubt influenced by the old-time ambience. Part of its charm is a bullet hole in the ceiling, said to have been shot by Pancho Villa's revolver. Monday-Saturday 1 pm-midnight, Sunday 1-6 pm. No cover. Cinco de Mayo 10 (Bellas Artes metro station), Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5512-8959. Aluminum accents, enormous windows of sheet glass, pale lighting and lots of black clothing make this bar-restaurant a stylish destination. The clientele has aged along with the bar—it isn't the too-cool mecca it once was—but it's still plenty cool. The menu consists mostly of Italian dishes. Tuesday-Saturday 1:30 pm-2 am, Sunday and Monday 1:30 pm-midnight. Saltillo 1, Condesa, Mexico City. Phone 5553-5337. | Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
One of the best places in the city to dance to a variety of tunes. Thursday–Saturday from 9 pm. No cover. Filomeno Mata 7, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5510-4488. Live bands provide dance music in a traditional club setting. Snacks available. Thursday-Saturday 9 pm-3:30 am. Cover charge M$60. Queretaro 225, Col. Roma, Mexico City. Phone 5584-5956 or 5564-7110. This venerable club bills itself as "The Salsa and Merengue Palace." Combined, its two dance floors fit up to 2,500 people, and the venue attracts some of the region's best live acts. Friday and Saturday from 9 pm. Cover varies. Mitla 410 (corner with Eugenia, Col. Narvarte), Mexico City. Phone 5682-6444 or 5682-0636. High energy on a tiny dance floor. When a Cuban salsa band sets the pace, few can resist the beat. The atmosphere is loose and free, and no one minds the clumsy steps of salsa first-timers. It can get packed, though. For those staying in the south of the city, another Mama Rumba is at Plaza San Jacinto 23, Col. San Angel. Wednesday-Saturday 9 pm-3 am. Cover M$80. Queretaro 230, Col. Roma, Mexico City. Phone 5564-6920 for Queretaro 230; 5550-8099 for Plaza San Jacinto 23. A small but venerable landmark on Mexico City's dance scene, with a great selection of trance and progressive house. Thursday-Saturday from 11 pm. Average cover M$100; varies by event. Uruguay 70, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5510-4454. The biggest-name artists from Mexico and the world perform in this massive auditorium, which is on Paseo de la Reforma, just across from some of the city's most exclusive hotels. Prices vary; check http://www.ticketmaster.com.mx or http://www.auditorio.com.mx/inicio.htm for upcoming events. Metro Auditorio. Paseo de la Reforma 50, Chapultepec, Mexico City. Phone 5280-9250. Known as the "House of the Mariachi," this bar pays tribute to Mexico's most enduring musical symbol. Features the brassy sound of live mariachi bands. Monday-Wednesday 8 pm-1:15 am, Thursday-Saturday 8 pm-3 am. Cover charge M$120 Monday-Wednesday, M$140 Thursday-Saturday. In the Sheraton Maria Isabel Hotel, Paseo de la Reforma 325 (across from La Zona Rosa), Mexico City. Phone 5242-5555 or 5242-3736. Hottest jazz club in town, featuring a varied lineup of national and international artists—and good snacks, to boot. Tuesday is Jam Night, when musicians in the audience step up to the stage. Tuesday-Saturday from 8:30 pm. Average cover M$80; varies for special events. Villalongin 196-H, Col. Cuauhtemoc, Mexico City. Phone 5592-1638. This is where people go to hear (and sing along with) mariachi musicians dressed in black, silver-studded suits and large hats. The mariachis wander the plaza until the wee hours of the morning. You can request a song for around M$75. Bars and restaurants line the square, which comes alive after 11 pm. Do not take a street cab to get back to your hotel. Call a cab company and have the taxi wait for you. On Eje Central between calles Republica de Honduras and Republica de Peru (Garibaldi metro station), Mexico City. If the really big names in salsa music (including Willie Colon, who is the owner) are in town, they usually play there. With a capacity for 2,500, this has the space of a concert hall with the atmosphere of a dance hall. It also stages cutting-edge rock shows and other live acts. Cover varies; check http://www.ticketmaster.com.mx for upcoming events. Andromaco 17, Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5255-1496. | Performing Arts | Top  |
Mexico City teems with cultural events and entertainment options. One main venue is the Palacio de Bellas Artes, in the Centro Historico near Alameda Central. The national opera company and the national symphony perform there. Performances of the Ballet Folclorico Nacional de Mexico, beautiful and captivating presentations of regional dances and costumes of Mexico, are also held there.
Free concerts are a mainstay of cultural life in Mexico City, and everything from big-name rock stars to classical quartets can often be found performing in public parks, churches, the Zocalo and even shopping centers. The Teatro de la Ciudad is again open to the public after several years of refurbishment. A captivating, must-see show built around the folk dances and traditional costumes of Mexico. The internationally acclaimed troupe performs Sunday morning, Sunday evening and Wednesday evening. Tickets cost M$360-$600. Performances are in Teatro Bellas Artes in the Palacio de Bellas Artes, at the corner of Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas, Mexico City. Phone 5521-9251 for information. Phone 5512-2593 (ext. 152-154) for tickets. Performances are on Saturday evening and Sunday afternoon, but check before going—the orchestra performs only part of the year. Tickets cost M$100. Concerts are in Sala Silvestre Revueltas in the Centro Cultural Olin Yolizti, Periferico Sur 5141 (near San Angel, Isidro Fabela), Mexico City. Phone 5606-0016. The symphony performs on Friday and Sunday throughout the year. Tickets are M$80-$160. At the Palacio de Bellas Artes, on the corner of Juarez and Lazaro Cardenas, Mexico City. Phone 5512-2593. Excellent resident singers, as well as guest soloists, but performance schedules vary, so check beforehand. Tickets run M$150-$1,300. Palacio de Bellas Artes, Ave. Hidalgo 1, Mexico City. Phone 5512-2593. | Ticket Brokers | Top |
Sells tickets to concerts, soccer matches and cultural events. Phone 5325-9000. http://www.ticketmaster.com.mx. A cavernous art-deco theater downtown. It hosts music, dance and film that often leans toward the experimental. Its age shows, but this just adds to the edgy atmosphere. Independencia 90, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5510-1035. This breathtaking four-tiered venue has an elegant carved interior, excellent sound, and an interesting and varied schedule. Donceles 36, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5510-2197. | Spectator Sports | Top |
Soccer is the favorite spectator sport in Mexico, and fans are fiercely loyal. Games are played in the Estadio Azteca (take the light rail from Tasquena to the Estadio Azteca station), Estadio Olimpico (metro Universidad) and Estadio Azul (San Antonio metro station), which are home turf for the city's three main clubs. Another favorite sport is baseball. Games—mostly at night, but sometimes during the day on weekends—take place at Foro Sol (Ciudad Deportiva metro station). For both sports, tickets can be bought at the gate or through Ticketmaster. Check Tiempo Libre and sports sections of local newspapers for dates and times.
Visitors looking for more exotic games can choose from bullfights at the Plaza de Toros (next to Estadio Azul, near the San Antonio metro station) or charreadas (Mexican rodeos) at Rancho del Charro (in the third section of Chapultepec Park). Both of these are held on Sunday. For spectators who like to bet, there are horse races at the Hipodromo de las Americas. In Mexico City, you'll find everything from well-established department stores to trendy shops, from unusual antiques shops to colorful artisans markets. Fixed prices prevail in upscale shops and department stores, but you're expected to bargain in the markets. Never pay the first price asked—make a counter offer of 20% lower, and you may arrive at a price that seems fair to all (hard bargaining is less common than many people think). Unless you're dealing with a reliable store, don't allow them to ship purchases. Keep all bills of sale to show to customs when you return home. Artwork and many handcrafted items are duty-free for import into developed nations. Even if a duty is charged, you probably still picked up a bargain.
Trendy shopping areas include Polanco and Zona Rosa. The Mercado la Ciudadela and Bazar Sabado (a Saturday market in San Angel) are popular crafts and souvenir markets—both are worth at least a browse. | Shopping Hours | Top |
Typical hours are 10 am-7 pm. Large department stores remain open until 8 or 9 pm. Smaller stores may close between 2 and 4 pm and then stay open till 8 pm. | Antique Stores | Top |
There are 65 tiny antiques shops packed into this picturesque mall, which features European and North American tableware, paintings, ceramics, rugs and furniture from the past four centuries. There are no dusty bargains there—everything is lovingly restored with prices to match. Monday-Saturday 10:30 am-7 pm. Londres 161, Zona Rosa, Mexico City. A hip furniture store that specializes in stylish 20th-century antique and vintage decor. Everything is one-of-a-kind and sometimes bizarre. Nothing is inexpensive, but individuality never is. Monday-Friday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday 10 am-5 pm. Colima 180, Col. Roma, Mexico City. Phone 5514-5723. The largest English-language bookstore in Mexico City, with all sorts of books—from novels to scientific material. Monday-Saturday 10 am-7 pm. Bolivar 23, Centro Historico, Mexico City. Phone 5512-6350. Located on the ground floor of the Casa Lamm, a converted mansion that now serves as a cultural center and houses a snazzy bistro. Its copious shelves are crammed with books, and sofas give this store the feel of a cozy study. It has a small selection of English-language books on art, music, travel and gastronomy, as well as a literature section. For what it's worth, the adjoining public restrooms just might be the nicest in the city. Monday-Saturday 11 am-8 pm, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. Alvaro Obregon 99 (at the corner of Orizaba), Col. Roma, Mexico City. Phone 5208-0174. Many of the galleries are concentrated in Zona Rosa, Polanco and the surrounding neighborhoods.
Has a permanent exhibit of internationally renowned artists, including the painters Franciso Toledo, Jose Luis Cuevas and Rufino Tamayo. Monday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Paseo de la Reforma 234, Col. Juarez, Mexico City. Phone 1997-9492. http://www.galeria-maren.com.mx. Features paintings and drawings by Mexican artists. By appointment. Monday-Friday 11 am-3 pm and 4-7 pm, Saturday 11 am-3 pm. Estocolmo 34, Zona Rosa, Mexico City. Phone 5514-0646 or 5525-4413. http://www.galeriachumacero.com.mx. Offers an excellent collection of up-and-coming painters, sculptors and photographers from Mexico and abroad. By appointment. Monday-Saturday 10 am-3 pm and 5-7 pm. Julio Verne 14, Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5280-0436. One of Mexico City's oldest and finest galleries. It features works by renowned contemporary Mexican artists. By appointment. Monday-Friday 10 am-2 pm and 3-7 pm. Horacio 1120, Polanco, Mexico City. Phone 5250-4105. | | |