Destination Guidebook for Morocco
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With beaches along the Atlantic and Mediterranean coasts, it's no surprise that a lot of Morocco's recreation is centered on water. The Atlantic beaches, especially resorts around Agadir, are generally better equipped for windsurfing and boating.
Golf has also found a home in Morocco. Perhaps the most prestigious course in the country, the Dar Es Salam Club in Rabat, hosts the annual Trophee Hassan II tournament. Other courses are scattered around the country, with concentrations around Marrakesh and Agadir.
The various ranges of the Atlas Mountains, including the scenic valleys to the south (Draa, Dades, Todra), in addition to the smaller Rif Mountains in the north of the country and even some desert areas, are great spots for hiking and trekking. Local companies and specialized guidebooks can be consulted for advice on routes and other details.
Although the facilities are basic, skiing is possible in Morocco December-April. The best resort is at Oukaimeden, about an hour south of Marrakesh in the High Atlas. A smaller facility is at Michliffen in the Middle Atlas, south of Fez. Morocco appears to be filled with bargains, but look closely before buying to make sure you get the best quality for your money. Good buys in wool carpets can be found, but most of what is sold is of poor quality. (A quick test for real wool is to take a small tuft from the carpet and burn it with a match or lighter. If it smells like burning plastic, it's acrylic fiber.) Other items available include leather goods (house shoes, ottomans, various types of bags), gems, fossils from the Sahara, thuya wood carvings, pottery, ceramic tile mosaics, inlaid mirrors and frames, brass- and copperware (trays, lanterns), silk, hand-embroidered clothing, and silver and gold Berber jewelry. Argan oil and spice blends also make good souvenirs. Bargaining is the rule in the medina. Offer a third to half the price quoted and take it from there. Be patient and polite but insistent. If bargaining is not your game, or you'd like to avoid the hassles of the medina, you can find goods with fixed prices at craftsmen's cooperatives, called Syndicat d'Initiative, in most of the larger cities.
Pay with cash whenever possible; credit cards can be overcharged. It is also better to take goods home with you than to have them shipped. Stores sometimes substitute cheap goods for purchased items when they ship overseas. | Shopping Hours | Top  |
Generally Monday-Saturday 8:30 am-12:30 pm and 2-6:30 pm. Many shops, however, especially those in the medina, close on Friday. In some souks, shops may be open on Sunday. The following 14-day itinerary covers a good deal of the country. If you arrive in Tangier on a ferry from Spain, you could see the north, including Fez, in a few days, but we strongly suggest staying longer. If you're more interested in a relaxing beach holiday, replace visits to Rabat and Meknes with a few days in Agadir or another beach resort in the south.
Day 1—Arrive in Casablanca.
Day 2—Casablanca.
Day 3—Drive or travel by train to Marrakesh.
Day 4—Marrakesh.
Day 5—Travel to Ourzazate, stopping along the way at Ait Benhadou. Overnight in Ourzazate.
Day 6—Day trip to Zagora.
Day 7—Return to Marrakesh.
Day 8—Travel to Rabat and overnight there.
Day 9—Rabat.
Day 10—Travel to Fez.
Day 11—Fez.
Day 12—Day trip to Moulay Idriss and Volubilis. Overnight in Meknes.
Day 13—Return to Casablanca.
Day 14—Depart Morocco.
If you have more time, we recommend you hire a car and driver in either Marrakesh or Ourzazate and tour the valleys, oases, ksour (residential buildings) and casbahs between the High Atlas and the Sahara. | Related Destinations | Top  |
AgadirThis southern resort draws large numbers of sun-seeking tourists, but it lacks the traditional charm of other cities in Morocco. (It was rebuilt and overdeveloped in the 1960s following a devastating earthquake.) Go there for the warm winter weather, the sandy beach, resort hotels and its good tourist infrastructure—not for the architecture or a true sense of Morocco's heritage. Visit the 16th-century casbah on top of the hill (primarily for the view of the town and water) and the Municipal Museum, which has some nice displays of Berber jewelry. For a change of pace, rent a camel for a ride along the beach (head for the wild dunes on the southern part of the beach) or take part in an organized diffas, a Berber meal usually accompanied by a traditional dance performance. Day trips can be made to Tafraoute, Goulimime, the Sous Massa National Park (sightings of flamingos and other migratory birds) and Tiznit (a walled oasislike town—watch the jewelers at work). Agadir is 125 mi/200 km southwest of Marrakesh. Al HoceimaThis village of whitewashed houses is a good place to stop during a tour of the Mediterranean coast and the Rif. It has modest accommodations and several seafood restaurants. There's also a nice beach along Al Hoceima Bay, called Plage Quemado. The coast to the west of Al Hoceima (just east of Torres de Alcala) has some beautiful coves with pleasant beaches as well. 125 mi/200 km northeast of Fez. AsilahThis laid-back, whitewashed town with Portuguese-built ramparts buttressing it against the Atlantic is a favorite seaside spot in northern Morocco. It's a good beach destination for those entering the country through Tangier, who don't have a lot of time to venture farther south or who prefer a restored, traditional environment over a modern resort. Granted, Asilah's accommodations are more modest than at the bigger resorts and cities, and its beach is not as nice as those further south, but we like the town's smaller size, relaxed atmosphere and the murals by local artists. An international cultural festival takes place there each year mid-July to mid-August (accommodations should be booked in advance during that time). Plan at least one night. 25 mi/40 km south of Tangier. BoumalneThis small rural village is the gateway to the Dades Gorge. We were enchanted by the fertile oases set against the rocky landscapes. There are also several picturesque casbahs in the valley. 120 mi/195 km east of Marrakesh. CasablancaWell known because of the Humphrey Bogart film of the same name, Casablanca is Morocco's largest and most modern city. Before the French began to develop it as the country's economic capital in 1912, Casa—as Casablanca is commonly called—was only a small trading post. Its subsequent rapid growth has wiped away most of its romantic image—it's bound to disappoint most visitors. Now basically a big commercial and industrial city, it is home to most of Morocco's major corporations and banks. However, its traditional markets pale in comparison with those of Fez or Marrakesh. If you're into nightlife, you'll want to stay a night or two; Casablanca is reputed to have the best homegrown club scene in the country. Otherwise, you'll probably be content to see the city in one day. On the other hand, it is the country's main transportation hub, so you may find yourself spending more time there. Although Casablanca has a medina and boasts several landmark 1920s and 1930s buildings with art-nouveau, art-deco and traditional Moroccan accents (concentrated around Place des Nations Unies and Place Mohammed V), the most impressive sight by far is the Hassan II Mosque. It was completed in 1993 and is one of the largest mosques in the world. It is also one of only a few mosques in Morocco that non-Muslims can visit—we highly recommend it. Guided tours allow you to see the wonderful craftsmanship and furnishings: beautiful mosaic tile work, sculpted plasterwork, marble-clad walls and arches, thick carpets, and enormous Venetian glass chandeliers. The wooden ceiling above the immense prayer hall is painted in dazzling patterns and, even more impressive, it can retract to open the mosque to the sky. In the basement are an ablution room and a large hammam (bathhouse). The plaza out front, which is dominated by a very tall minaret, can accommodate thousands more for religious events. If you're interested in the history and culture of Jews in Morocco, take time to visit the Musee du Judaisme Marocain. Its exhibits document the religious and artistic traditions of local Jewish communities. The museum is in the oasis quarter, east of the city center. The beach suburb of Ain Diab is a good place to stroll along the corniche (oceanside promenade), especially at night. It has plenty of seafood restaurants and nightclubs. Just a few miles/kilometers north of Casablanca are some beach resorts, such as Mohammedia, where there's a golf course popular with Europeans. The only good hotel, however, had its beach spoiled by the nearby petroleum plant. All in all, we feel that there are better resorts elsewhere in the country. Casablanca is 60 mi/100 km southwest of Rabat. ChaouenThis picturesque town in the Rif Mountains has more atmosphere than sights. We enjoyed walking around the small medina with its light-blue-painted walls and drinking tea at the main plaza. The main sight is the casbah with its enclosed garden and small museum. The town hosts an annual music festival, called the Alegria Festival, in July. A half-day stop or a one-night stay is sufficient. 50 mi/80 km southeast of Tangier. DakhlaFar south of El Ayoune on the Atlantic coast, Dakhla is in an isolated area in the Western Sahara being developed as a beach and watersports resort and sea-bass fishing center. Though easily accessible by air, it's in a politically unstable area, so check with your embassy first to see if it's safe to visit. On the coast, 600 mi/965 km south of Agadir. El AyouneThis seaside town offers a beach, a bird sanctuary and a few hotels managed by Club Med. Short day and overnight excursions via camel are sometimes available. Accessible by road and air, El Ayoune is in a politically sensitive area, so check with your embassy to determine whether it's safe to visit. 315 mi/500 km southwest of Agadir. ErfoudThis desert valley town is a good base for various excursions to see the Sahara, because it has several comfortable hotels. A favorite excursion is to Merzouga, where you can see the impressive Erg Chebbi sand dunes. From Merzouga, you can ride a camel into the desert and spend a night at an oasis—book through a hotel in Erfoud or Merzouga. From Erfoud, you can also visit the town of Rissani, which has a bustling market that is held on Tuesday, Thursday and Sunday. Near Rissani see the mausoleum of Moulay Ali Cherif, the ruins of Sijilmassa—whose beautiful architecture and fortified villages are made from unbaked brick—and the ruins of several ksour (residential buildings). A three-day Date Festival takes place in October at the end of the date harvest. Plan two nights in and around Erfoud. 230 mi/370 km east of Marrakesh. EssaouiraThis popular port town (called Mogador by the Portuguese) dates to Phoenician times, but it was redesigned in the 18th century by a French architect who was in the service of Louis XV. Its cultural mix, blue-painted and whitewashed buildings, and pinkish-red ramparts make it one of the most attractive resorts on the Atlantic coast. Essaouira has a wonderful old city as well as a nice port area—we enjoyed browsing the fresh-fish stalls and then eating at one of the long picnic tables set up beside the ocean. Consistent wind attracts windsurfers and kite surfers from all over the world to Essaouira, which has a large beach just south of the medina. Another big draw is the annual International Gnaoua and World Music Festival (http://www.festival-gnaoua.net), which takes place in June. Because the festival attracts a large crowd and accommodations fill early, it's best to make reservations well in advance if you're planning to visit then. Day trips can be made to Safi (a coastal town famous for its tiles and pottery) or El-Jadida (with an impressive Portuguese fortress and a golf course). Essaouira can be reached by bus from Agadir or Marrakesh. 110 mi/175 km west of Marrakesh. FezFez has rightly been declared a UNESCO World Heritage site. Its walled medina is one of the largest, most intact and impressive medieval cities in the Arab world and, taken as a whole, it's the architectural highlight of Morocco. Fez also has a French-planned new city (ville nouvelle), and the contrast between the old and the new sections makes sightseeing all the more fascinating. You truly feel as if you're stepping into the past when you walk through one of the gates to the old medina. Our favorite spots for a panoramic view of the old city are Borj Sud (a ruined fortress atop a hill south of the medina) and the Merenid Hotel (north of the medina). The more distant view from the Zalagh Hotel in the new city is also very nice. The new city, by contrast, has a European feel, with wide streets and squares. Avenue Hassan II and Boulevard Mohammed V are the main thoroughfares there, and both are lined with restaurants, sidewalk cafes and pastry shops. GoulimimeSituated at the edge of the Sahara, where desert nomads and sedentary populations meet, this town is worth a night's stay if you can arrange to be there on a Saturday. That's when the Tuareg People (also called Blue People because the dye in their clothes tints their skin) ride into town on camels to buy supplies. Unfortunately, tourists often outnumber the local population on market days, but the spectacle can still be fun. You'll also want to shop in the market and, if you haven't already tried it, ride a camel (once is enough for most people). If you find you have an affection for this animal, you might attend the camel festival in July. 100 mi/160 km south of Agadir. IfraneBy Moroccan standards, this town in the Middle Atlas is comparatively young, and its red-tiled chalets make it seem more European than Moroccan. It's home to both the king's summer residence and Al-Akhawaya University, an elite school. But the scenery and fresh air are the biggest draws. Ifrane is also a good base for exploring and hiking the seldom-visited Middle Atlas region. Near Ifrane are waterfalls (Cascades des Vierges), a forest of old-growth cedars (Foret de Cedres), a small ski area at Mischliffen and the resort of Azrou. Farther away are the lake areas of Dayet Ifrah and Dayet Hachlaf, the towering Ras el-Ain fortress near Beni Mellal, and the popular waterfalls of Cascades d'Ouzoud (impressive in spring—they're actually closer to Marrakesh). Ifrane is 40 mi/63 km south of Fez. LaracheThis somewhat quiet town on the Atlantic coast blends an older Arab atmosphere with newer Spanish touches added in the first half of the 20th century. Apart from walking around the new and old parts of the city, you can pop in to the Archeology Museum, with finds from the nearby ancient Roman city of Lixus, or pay your respects at the grave of French author Jean Genet, who is buried in the Catholic cemetery facing the ocean. MarrakeshThis is the most popular destination in Morocco and a must-see. The setting is stunning, with ocher stucco buildings on a dry, rocky plain and the snow-peaked Atlas Mountains as a backdrop (they're not always visible). Much of the medina is surrounded by beautifully restored pinkish-red ramparts, and lovely palm gardens are interspersed among the impressive buildings, including an ever-growing number of nicely renovated courtyard mansions (riads) that now serve as boutique hotels. The modern town has gracious, wide avenues and large, resort-style hotels. The vast square called Djemaa el-Fna is the main show in town. It's a market scene straight out of the movies, with snake charmers, musicians, acrobats and storytellers. At night, the plaza is filled with gaslit restaurant stalls and people enjoying the food and spectacle. If you'd rather not be in the thick of things, you can enjoy the atmosphere from one of the rooftop terrace restaurants overlooking the plaza. If you're longing for nightlife of the usual sort, don't despair: Marrakesh has some very trendy clubs, such as Jad Mahal and Pacha. MeknesThis imperial city doesn't draw the crowds that Marrakesh and Fez do, which means you can explore its medina at a relaxed pace with relatively little hassle. From 1672 to 1727, Meknes served as the capital for Muslim ruler Moulay Ismail. His ornately decorated mausoleum complex is one of the city's architectural highlights, as well as one of the few mausoleums in Morocco that non-Muslims can enter. Other architectural highlights include the Bou Inania Medersa (theological school) and Bab Mansour, a gate with stunning colored tiles, marble pillars and a lacy web of carved stucco. The Dar Jamai Museum houses an impressive collection of decorative arts. Two more impressive sights include the Dar el-Ma, a huge barrel-vaulted structure that served as the city's reservoir, and the adjoining Heri el-Souani, a monumental grain-storage facility. The covered market also warrants a visit. The countryside around Meknes is pleasant: rolling hills planted with olive trees and other crops. Day trips to two nearby sites are highly recommended. Moulay Idriss, a beautiful hilltop town founded in the eighth century, is a holy city for pilgrims. (The mausoleum complex is closed to non-Muslims, but the rest of the town is open to visitors.) In Volubilis you'll find the well-preserved ruins of the 2,000-year-old capital of Roman Mauritania, home of Antony and Cleopatra's daughter, Sylene. The structures in Volubilis are comparable to other Roman ruins found throughout the Mediterranean area, and the mosaic floors are among the finest in existence. Meknes is 80 mi/130 km east of Rabat. OuarzazateThis city has grown from a nondescript camel stop to a major destination for international winter tourism. Although its central location—near the Draa and Dades valleys and various oases, the High Atlas and the Sahara—is its main asset, other reasons to visit include Taourirt Casbah, its Ouazguita carpets (geometric designs of red-orange on black background) and its exotic charm. Ouarzazate can be seen as a day trip from Marrakesh, but we prefer to overnight there using it as a base for exploring the nearby casbahs and ksour (residential buildings). For an in-depth tour of the area, you'll need at least four days. If you have less time available, take an excursion to Ait Benhadou, a Berber village with many casbahs. Ouarzazate is 80 mi/130 km southeast of Marrakesh. RabatMorocco's capital since 1912, this city of more than 1.5 million residents is not as compelling to travelers as other imperial cities, but it's a relaxing change of pace from much of Morocco—the touts are not as aggressive as in other places. We recommend seeing it as a day trip or a stopover on the train from Tangier or Fez to Marrakesh or Casablanca. Watch the changing of the Royal Guard at the Royal Palace (Friday mornings) and visit the impressive 12th-century Tower of Hassan (an unfinished minaret—the many broken columns nearby were part of a 12th-century mosque that also was never completed) and the adjacent royal mausoleum containing the remains of King Mohammed V and King Hassan II (note the colorfully dressed guards). You should also walk through the medina and visit the Oudaias Casbah with its hilltop ocean views. Take time for some mint tea at the outdoor cafe in the casbah. If time permits, you should also visit the Musee Archeologique, which has the most extensive collection of ancient artifacts in the country. Just outside Rabat is the fortresslike necropolis of Chellah, which includes Roman ruins in addition to Islamic domed shrines and tombs. We enjoyed exploring the quiet site, with its lush vegetation and dozens of storks' nests—hire a taxi for this excursion and ask the driver to wait while you visit the site. Near Rabat are several interesting towns that should be visited, if time permits. Chief among these are Sale, with its Grand Mosque, city gates, souks, quaint back streets and harbor filled with fishing boats, and Bouknadel, with its Jardins Exotiques (fascinating gardens). Rabat is about 60 mi/100 km northeast of Casablanca. TafraouteThis mountain village in the Anti Atlas range has a pink casbah—it's built out of beautiful red granite that seems to change color as the day progresses. There's not a lot to do, but it's interesting to see how the townsfolk live. Nearby are the mysterious Painted Rocks, a plain of boulders painted red, purple, blue and black by an anonymous French artist. In February, the almond trees blossom. Most people visit Tafraoute as a full-day trip from Taroudant or Agadir. 50 mi/80 km southeast of Agadir. TangierThe closest major African city to Europe, Tangier was once known as the Pearl of the Mediterranean. Sadly, its reputation today is lackluster, to say the least. It has more than its share of pestering touts and crowded, rundown streets. Nevertheless, we enjoyed the city on our last trip. It's not nearly as interesting as Fez or Marrakesh, but it still has the anything-goes aura that, over the years, has attracted such writers as Paul and Jane Bowles, William Burroughs, Allen Ginsburg and Tennessee Williams, and artists Delacroix and Matisse. Once you escape the busy port area, it's easier to appreciate Tangier's nice setting: hills flanking a broad bay with a long stretch of beach. Neither the new or old section of the city has an abundance of standout sights or monuments, but no doubt something will spark your interest while walking around them. The Museum of Moroccan Arts and Antiquities in the casbah section of the medina is your reward for climbing the hill. Technically, it's possible to see Tangier as a day trip from Spain, but keep in mind that it's not representative of all of Morocco. The one- and two-day package tours of the city offered by a number of companies in Spain are worthwhile for people who have little or no experience traveling in developing countries—it's easy to get lost in the maze of streets on your own. (The crowded streets in the old part of the city can get particularly claustrophobic if you've lost your way.) Day trips from Tangier can be made to the towns of Chefchaouen, Tetouan or Asilah. 150 mi/240 km north of Rabat. TaroudantThis small city, surrounded by red, gold, pink and orange walls, is a nice place to stop-particularly if you're traveling between Agadir and Ouarzazate. Its medina is easier to negotiate than the one in Marrakesh, and it offers almost as much variety of street life. Shopping there is also good, especially for metalwork, Berber jewelry and carpets. 55 mi/85 east of Agadir. TetouanSometimes dubbed "the little sister of Fez," Tetouan makes for a relaxing and interesting day trip. Like Fez, it has both a new town (ville nouvelle) and an old town (medina). The ville nouvelle has some nice Spanish colonial architecture, but the whitewashed, hillside medina is the main area for sightseeing. The architecture there was strongly influenced by Jewish and Muslim immigrants who were forced out of Spain in the 15th and 17th centuries. Various crafts (leather, textiles, woodwork) are sold primarily along Rue El-Mokadem. The Musee Archeologique has ancient Roman and Muslim artifacts, and the Musee d'Art Marocain displays furnishings, costumes and musical instruments in a beautifully renovated courtyard villa. A one-night stay in Tetouan is sufficient, or you can stay longer and make it a base for exploring the nearby Mediterranean coast and Rif Mountains. 35 mi/57 km southeast of Tangier. Todra GorgeWith sheer cliffs flanking a narrow ravine, this is one of the most impressive natural sights in the country. Not surprisingly, it's popular with hikers and climbers. You enter the gorge through an extensive palm grove, coming from the town of Tinerhir. At the opposite end of the gorge is the quaint village of Tamtattouchte. The area holds many scenic ksour and casbahs and is worth exploring for a day or two. ZagoraThis small town on the edge of the Sahara is a good base for exploring the Draa Valley to the north, with its various oases, palm groves and casbahs. The ksar (residential buildings) of Tamnougalt, the Timidierte Casbah and the Igdaouan Casbah are architectural standouts there. To the south, Tamegroute also has a ksar worth visiting. It houses a library with a lovely collection of illuminated Qurans and other Islamic manuscripts. Excursions by camel or four-wheel-drive vehicles are offered into the nearby dunes of the Sahara. 105 mi/170 km southeast of Ouarzazate.
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