Destination Guidebook for Paris, France
|
|
| |
Paris inspires grandeur. From Napoleon's imposing Arc de Triomphe to Eiffel's pioneering tower and even to the whimsical Centre Pompidou, every notable landmark seems to have monumental proportions. But Paris has delights of a smaller, quieter nature: Manicured parks and flower gardens give a green backdrop and a serene beauty to the broad avenues, soaring cathedrals and marble monuments.
On the Left Bank, the neighborhood that surrounds the famed Sorbonne University and the imposing Pantheon is known as the Latin Quarter. The Quarter has always had an intellectual, international, bohemian character, though its winding streets are home to a few fast-food restaurants. (If you ignore them and continue northwest, you'll find the trendier cafes of St. Germain.) Also on the Left Bank are the city's most famous domes: the gilded Hotel des Invalides—a military museum holding Napoleon's tomb—and the colonnaded Pantheon, the final resting place of numerous notables. To the west is the most famous Parisian landmark, the Eiffel Tower, built as a "temporary" exhibit in 1889 to commemorate the centennial of the French Revolution.
From the Left Bank, cross one of the bridges to the Ile de la Cite and its two Gothic masterpieces, Sainte-Chapelle (a church with extraordinary stained-glass windows) and Notre-Dame Cathedral.
On the Right Bank, the Centre Pompidou, also known as Beaubourg, is one of the world's most novel structures and an excellent modern-art museum to boot. A short walk to the east brings you to the personal museum of Paris' most famous artist-in-residence, Pablo Picasso. Set in the hills of the Montmartre district are the neighborhood's lovely cemetery and the white-domed splendor of Sacre Coeur.
In the very center of the Right Bank, along the river, is the Louvre, once the residence of Louis XIV and now the home of three famous women: Venus de Milo, the Winged Victory of Samothrace and Mona Lisa. The Louvre is a massive museum housing many of the greatest works of art from ancient times through the 18th century, and it is impossible to digest in one visit.
Place de la Concorde, the site of beheadings during the French Revolution and tank duels during World War II, is at the opposite end of the Tuileries Gardens from the Louvre. The 3,300-year-old Obelisque of Luxor at its center was a gift from Egyptian viceroy Mehemet Ali to Louis Philippe in 1829; it has dominated the square ever since. Connecting the Place de la Concorde to the Arc de Triomphe, which commemorates the victories of Napoleon, is the magnificent Avenue des Champs Elysees, lined with shops, showrooms, sidewalk cafes and cinemas.
When you tire of monuments, visit the Rodin Museum, the dazzling Musee d'Orsay (19th-century and impressionist art) and the Cluny Museum (medieval art, including the 16th-century tapestry series The Lady and the Unicorn). And when you're ready to relax, take an unabashedly touristy trip down the Seine on the bateaux mouches (sightseeing boats) or just pull up a chair and people-watch in the beautifully manicured Luxembourg or Tuileries gardens.
Note: Museums are generally closed one day a week (usually Monday or Tuesday) and on certain public holidays. Students, seniors and professionals can qualify for reduced rates of admission, so it is a good idea to carry appropriate identification. You can buy a Paris Museum Pass that will allow you to enter around 60 museums in the Paris area (including those in Versailles) without standing in line for a ticket (a great benefit, especially in summer). The cost is 30 euros for a two-day pass, 45 euros for a four-day pass and 60 euros for a six-day pass. The passes can be purchased at metro stations, monuments, museums and at tourist offices around the city, and must be used on consecutive days. The clock starts ticking the first day you use it (start in the morning to fully benefit from your day). You can also order your pass online and have it mailed to you for a fee. http://www.parismuseumpass.com .
Some museums, including the Musee d'Orsay and the Louvre, are free the first Sunday of the month, and the permanent collections of most museums are free to anyone younger than 18. | Historic Sites | Top  |
Take a trip to the top of this magnificent example of Napoleonic self-celebration. At 164 ft/50 m high, it is the world's second-tallest triumphal arch (North Korea built one a smidgen taller). Climbing to the top offers a view of the entire city, from the modern towers of La Defense to Montmartre and the Pantheon. Twelve avenues radiate from the Arc, which is decorated with larger-than-life sculptures and friezes. Underneath it lies the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. The safest way to get to the monument is through the tunnel on the north side of the Champs Elysees. April-September daily 10 am-11 pm; October-March daily 10 am-10:30 pm. 9 euros adults. Place Charles de Gaulle (8th; Metro Etoile), Paris. Phone 01-5537-7377. http://arc-de-triomphe.monuments-nationaux.fr. At the end of the 1700s, millions of bones were transferred to these underground quarries when their previous resting place, the Cimetiere des Innocents, became overcrowded. The Catacombs also served as French resistance headquarters during World War II; the Nazis never discovered their secret use. Nowadays they are known for highly illegal (and hence popular) parties, happenings and black Masses, but more than 200,000 people also enjoy organized legal visits. Take along your own flashlight. Daily except Monday 10 am-5 pm (last entry at 4 pm). 7 euros adults. 1 Place Denfert-Rochereau (14th; Metro Denfert-Rochereau), Paris. Phone 01-4322-4763. http://www.catacombes.info. During the Reign of Terror, this palace and seat of power was a stopping point for prisoners on their way to the guillotine. It is especially beautiful at night, as it is lit up against the Seine. You can see the cells of Maximilien Robespierre, Georges-Jacques Danton and Marie Antoinette in a setting of beautiful 14th-century Gothic architecture. The Salle des Gens d'Armes, built 1302-1313, is most impressive: It is the largest secular hall of the Middle Ages. March-October daily 9:30 am-6 pm; November-February daily 9 am-5 pm. 6.50 euros adults. 2 Blvd. du Palais (1st; Metro Cite), Paris. Phone 01-5340-6097. http://conciergerie.monuments-nationaux.fr. This 1,063-ft/324-m, 10,100-ton marvel of metal latticework was completed in 1889. Derided as a "hideous lamppost," it offended many prominent Parisians who wanted to preserve the city's aesthetics and was almost disassembled in 1909. But after its radio-tower capabilities were discovered, it became a symbol of Paris. Until 1930, when the Chrysler Building was built, the Tower (then measuring 1,023 ft/312 m) was the tallest building in the world. The views from its several levels are extraordinary—well worth the wait in line. The interior lighting system makes the tower look like a big golden candle at night. Every hour on the hour, the tower shimmers and sparkles for 10 minutes (from nightfall to 1 am in winter and till 2 am in summer). January to mid-June daily 9:30 am-11:45 pm; mid-June to December daily 9 am-12:45 am. The last entrance is 45 minutes before closing time. 12 euros, 7.80 euros and 4.80 euros for adults to take the elevator to the third, second and first levels, respectively. 4 euros to climb the stairs to the first or second level. Expect to wait at least an hour when taking elevators, as almost seven million people visit the tower each year. If you have a reservation for the restaurant on the second floor, you can take a different elevator without the long wait. Champs de Mars (7th; Metro Bir-Hakeim), Paris. Phone 01-4411-2323. http://www.tour-eiffel.fr. Louis XIV commissioned this building, the first national hospital for soldiers, to help out war veterans. The resulting structure, with its gilded dome—meant to be France's answer to St. Peter's in Rome—is a masterpiece of 17th-century classical French architecture. But the main attraction is Napoleon's Tomb: This enormous crypt contains six coffins placed one inside the other, nesting-doll-style, with the emperor in the center coffin. The complex is also a military museum, containing flags, banners, swords, medals, armor and other items from French military history, including some of Napoleon's personal possessions. A museum with exhibits on Charles de Gaulle and World War II is also worth seeing in the Invalides complex. October-March daily 10 am-5 pm; April-September daily 10 am-6 pm (Tuesday till 9 pm). Closed the first Monday of the month. 8 euros adults. Place des Invalides (7th; Metro Invalides), Paris. Phone 01-4442-3877. http://www.invalides.org. Walled and shaded by trees, this cemetery off Rue Caulaincourt is famous for its hillside graves of composers, artists and authors, including Edgar Degas, Jacques Offenbach, Stendhal (the pen name of Marie-Henri Beyle), Alexandre Dumas, Vaslav Nijinsky and Francois Truffaut. Open mid-March to early November Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-6 pm, Sunday 9 am-6 pm; early November to mid-March Monday-Friday 8 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 9 am-5:30 pm. Free. 20 Ave. Rachel (18th; Metro Place de Clichy), Paris. Phone 01-5342-3630. http://www.paris.fr/portail/english/Portal.lut?page_id=8222. This spacious and sedate enclosed cemetery is located in the southern part of the city. A bit less touristy than other scenic burial grounds in Paris, Montparnasse Cemetery nonetheless fills the celebrity quotient as the final resting place of philosophers Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir, author Samuel Beckett, pop icon Serge Gainsbourg (whose grave is often piled with metro tickets in memory of his most famous song about a metro ticket collector), poet Charles Baudelaire (his gravestone has a remarkable statue of a bat with folded wings, and the poet's effigy perched on top) and many others. Open mid-March to early November Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-6 pm, Sunday 9 am-6 pm; early November to mid-March Monday-Friday 8 am-5:30 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-5:30 pm, Sunday 9 am-5:30 pm. Boulevard Raspail at Rue Edgar Quinet (14th; Metro Raspail), Paris. Phone 01-4410-8650. http://www.paris.fr/portail/english/Portal.lut?page_id=8222. This remarkable 12th-century cathedral stands majestically on the Ile de la Cite. It has the features you'd expect from a great Gothic church: towers, flying buttresses, even gargoyles to repel evil and keep rain in its proper place. The inside glows with stained glass, especially the 30-ft/9-m Rose Windows. The bell in the south tower is heard only on the most solemn occasions. The 11th-century organ, which has 8,000 pipes, is played in concerts every Sunday except during Lent. Excavations around Notre-Dame in preparation for a parking garage revealed Gallo-Roman, late Roman and medieval ruins, which are now preserved in an underground museum known as the Crypte Archeologique. The cathedral is open daily 7:45 am-6:45 pm; the Crypte Archeologique is open daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm. The tower (387 steps to climb) is open daily 9:30 am-6:30 pm (later in summer). The cathedral is free to visitors; admission to the crypt is 3.30 euros adults, to the tower 7.50 euros adults. Ile de la Cite (4th; Metro Cite), Paris. Phone 01-4234-5610 for organ concert dates, 01-4329-8351 for the crypt museum. http://www.cathedraledeparis.com or http://notre-dame-de-paris.monuments-nationaux.fr. Considered the masterpiece of the Second Empire, Paris' opera house (also called the Palais Garnier after the architect who designed it) is an opulent example of 19th-century theatrical architecture and a source of tremendous pride for Parisians. It has been restored to its original ornate marble grandeur: Highlights include the sumptuous onyx-and-marble staircase and the elaborate facade, decorated with a replica of Carpeaux's sculpture group La Dance. If you want to see the famous ceiling fresco by Marc Chagall (completed in 1964), be sure to go between 1-2 pm, because no visitors are allowed during opera rehearsals. Guided tours take place on Saturday and Sunday year-round and daily during school vacations, which usually take place around Easter and between mid-May and September. Tours in English are offered Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 11:30 am (daily July-August at 11:30 am and 2:30 pm). French tours take place Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday at 11:30 am, and at 2 and 3:30 pm. Don't miss the small Opera Museum in the West Pavilion, with its collection of costumes, posters, sketches and decor from past productions. Daily 10 am-4:30 pm. 8 euros for the unguided tour, 12 euros for the guided tour. Tickets to evening performances range 7 euros-160 euros. Place de l'Opera (9th; Metro Opera), Paris. Phone 01-4001-2599 or 4110-0810 (for tours). http://www.operadeparis.fr or http://visites.opera-de-paris.com. The Pantheon dominates much of the city's left bank. This enormous neoclassical structure was planned as the church of Ste. Genevieve, but it was completed after the onset of the French Revolution and converted to a secular mausoleum. Voltaire (the pen name of Francois Marie Arouet), Jean-Jacques Rousseau, Victor Hugo, Emile Zola, Marie and Pierre Curie, World War II resistance leader Jean Moulin and writer Andre Malraux are all buried inside. Solemn frescoes by Puvis de Chavannes decorate the walls, underscoring this monument's funereal solemnity. Foucault's Pendulum, which was conceived in 1859, hangs under the cupula to demonstrate the rotation of the Earth in an easy-to-see experiment. April-September, visitors can also climb 261 steps to the monumental colonnaded dome. April-September daily 10 am-6:30 pm; October-March daily 10 am-6 pm. 7.50 euros adults. Place du Pantheon (5th; Metro Cardinal Lemoine), Paris. Phone 01-4432-1800. http://pantheon.monuments-nationaux.fr. Named after Louis XIV's confessor, Father Lachaise, this is the largest cemetery in Paris (108 acres/44 hectares) and a favorite spot for Parisians and tourists alike. Shops on the streets leading to the entrances sell maps of the cemetery, which will help you locate the graves of Jean-Baptiste Poquelin (better known as Moliere), Honore de Balzac, Marcel Proust, Frederic Chopin, Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Isadora Duncan and Jim Morrison. Safe during daylight hours, but don't go there at night. Early November to mid-March 8 am-5:30 pm, mid-March to early November 8 am-6 pm (opens at 8:30 am Saturday and 9 am Sunday). Free. Boulevard Menilmontant at Avenue Gambetta (20th; Metro Pere Lachaise), Paris. Phone 01-5525-8210. http://www.pere-lachaise.com or http://www.paris.fr/portail/english/Portal.lut?page_id=8222. This basilica, built in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, is the most recent in a series of worship sites built atop Butte Montmartre, the highest hill in Paris, from the earliest days of the town's settlement. Its strong Romano-Byzantine influence, with the central white marble dome surrounded by smaller white domes, gives it the look of a wedding cake, or a mosque. It's visible from all over the city. Climb up to the dome for a fabulous view of Paris. At the top of the steps leading up to the church, there's a plaza with a great view, and just beyond the church around the cobblestones is a lovely market square with shops, cafes and artists painting. Street performers put on shows that range from delightfully silly to utterly inane. Daily 6:45 am-10:30 pm. In the summer, the crypt and dome are open 9 am-7 pm; at other times, they are open 9 am-5:45 pm. The basilica is free. Admission to the dome and crypt is 4.50 euros. Parvis du Sacre Coeur (18th; Metro Anvers), Paris. Phone 01-5341-8900. http://www.sacre-coeur-montmartre.com. Hidden away in a courtyard of the Palais de Justice on Ile de la Cite, this medieval church, constructed by Louis IX (St. Louis) in 1248, stands like a jewel, with its Gothic architecture and stunning stained-glass windows that are best appreciated in the early afternoon sun. There are two levels to the church—the upper chapel, which was reserved for the royal family, has a massive vaulted ceiling and decorations of the apostles on its columns. The lower chapel is dedicated to the Virgin Mary with fleur-de-lis columns. The church is often used as a site for classical-music recitals. Daily 9:30 am-6 pm March-October, 10 am-5 pm November-February (last entry 30 minutes before closing). 7.50 euros adults. 4 Blvd. du Palais (1st, Metro Cite), Paris. Phone 01-5373-7851 or 01-5340-6097. http://sainte-chapelle.monuments-nationaux.fr/en. Funded by the famous Cartier jewelry empire, this collection of works by more than 800 contemporary artists is housed in a striking glass structure. The permanent exhibit includes works by such artists as Gilbert and George, Claude Viallat and Shirley Jaffe. Open daily except Monday noon-8 pm. 6.50 euros adults. 261 Blvd. Raspail (14th; Metro Raspail), Paris. Phone 01-4218-5650. http://www.fondation.cartier.com. The Pompidou Center, which many locals call "Beaubourg" after its neighborhood, opened in 1977 amid a whirlwind of controversy. The building designed by Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano appears to be turned inside out, with pipes, wires and girders visible. Critics called it "the refinery" or "the fridge." Bizarre, colorful and somehow beautiful, it houses an excellent permanent collection of 20th-century art, including works by Matisse, Braque, Delaunay, Leger, Chagall and Andy Warhol. Do not miss the bookstore: it has the best collection of art books in France. There's also a trendy, futuristic restaurant, Georges, on the sixth floor, and a bar that has excellent views of the entire city. Galerie Sud, on the south side of the museum, houses special temporary exhibits, and Place Igor Stravinsky contains a fountain and colorful oversized sculptures inspired by Stravinsky's music. Off the outdoor plaza is the re-creation of the atelier of sculptor Constantin Brancusi (1876-1956), which contains many of his smooth, abstract sculptures and works-in-progress. The Pompidou Center also houses a movie theater showing classic and first-run films. Open daily except Tuesday 11 am-9 pm; Brancusi studio open daily except Tuesday 2-6 pm. Admission to the permanent collection and special exhibitions is by a combined ticket costing 12 euros for adults (10 euros when Gallery 1 is closed). Place Georges Pompidou (4th; Metro Hotel de Ville or Rambuteau), Paris. Phone 01-4478-1233. http://www.centrepompidou.fr. Set amid gardens and playgrounds in Parc de la Villette, this sprawling museum complex features interactive exhibits on space technology, computers, astronomy and marine biology. One of the main attractions is the excellent planetarium. The museum also includes the Cite des Enfants, which has hands-on exhibits geared to children ages 3-12. Open Tuesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. 8 euros adults, 6 euros children, free for children younger than 7 (regular Explora tickets). Combination tickets may cost up to 18.50 euros adults, 15 euros for children). 30 Ave. Corentin Cariou (19th; Metro Porte de la Villette), Paris. Phone 01-4005-7223 for information, 08-9269-7072 to reserve tickets. http://www.cite-sciences.fr. This space, dedicated to photography, alternates changing exhibits of up-and-coming young photographers with exhibits of Cartier-Bresson's legendary work. Open Wednesday 1-8:30 pm, Tuesday and Thursday-Sunday 1-6:30 pm, Saturday 11 am-6:45 pm. Closed in August and between expositions. 6 euros adults. Free Wednesday after 6:30 pm. 2 Impasse Lebouis (14th; Metro Gaite or Edgard Quinet), Paris. Phone 01-5680-2700. http://www.henricartierbresson.org. This museum was named after the game of tennis, because its building functioned as a tennis court under Napoleon III. When tennis became less fashionable, the structure was used to exhibit art. Its stunning collection of impressionist art was moved to the Musee d'Orsay in 1986: Now it's part of the National Center for Photography and Photographic Patrimony, with multimedia exhibitions that combine historical photography and contemporary art. Open Tuesday noon-9 pm, Wednesday-Friday noon-7 pm, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-7 pm. 6 euros adults. Jardin des Tuileries, Place de la Concorde (1st; Metro Concorde), Paris. Phone 01-4703-1250. http://www.jeudepaume.org. Built for the Universal Exposition of 1900, this beautiful art-nouveau palace is now used as a permanent gallery for hosting art exhibitions; it's considered one of the most prestigious venues for international arts in the world. Recent shows have included works of Henri Rousseau and Cezanne in Provence. Save a few euros (and time in the long lines) by reserving tickets in advance on the Web site. Daily except Tuesday 10 am-8 pm (until 10 pm on Wednesday). Closed between exhibitions. 10 euros-12 euros adults (fees change with each exhibition). 3 Ave. du General Eisenhower (8th; Metro Champs Elysees-Clemenceau or Franklin D. Roosevelt), Paris. Phone 01-4413-1717. http://www.grandpalais.fr or http://www.rmn.fr/Galeries-nationales-du-Grand. The institute offers a fascinating look at Arabic culture old and new, with collections of ancient art and objects from the Arab world, as well as modern-art exhibits. It is housed in a modern aluminum and glass building, designed by Parisian star architect Jean Nouvel, whose south wall has photosensitive arabesque window panels that regulate the flow of light into the building. The ritzy top-floor restaurant, Ziryab, boasts impressive views of Paris. Daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm. 5 euros adults. 1 Rue des Fosses St. Bernard (5th; Metro Jussieu or Cardinal Lemoine), Paris. Phone 01-4051-3838. http://www.imarabe.org. This elegant, Philippe Starck-designed museum and gallery, housed in a mansion in west Paris, exhibits the fragile crystal masterpieces that have won Baccarat so many awards since its inception in the early 19th century. Monday and Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-6 pm. 7 euros adults. 11 Place des Etats-Unis (16th; Metro Iena or Boissiere), Paris. Phone 01-4022-1100. http://www.baccarat.fr. The vast collections of the History of Paris museum are housed in two neighboring 17th-century hotels particuliers; one was once home to the prolific society scribe Madame de Sevigne, whose letters shed a lot of light on the society at the court of Louis IV. The city's history is illustrated with artwork, models, documents, advertisements and commemorative objects from prehistoric days through modern times, including the Revolution and World War II. It also has the original bed in which Marcel Proust wrote most large parts of his famous In Search of Lost Time. Allow at least a half-day to see the entire museum, and be sure to rest and relax for a time in the formal gardens. Daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm. Free entry to the permanent collection; 8 euros adults for the temporary exhibitions. 23 Rue de Sevigne (3rd; Metro St. Paul), Paris. Phone 01-4459-5858. http://www.carnavalet.paris.fr. This museum is housed in a 17th-century mansion in the Marais. Exhibits trace the history of Jews in France, Europe and North Africa from the Middle Ages to the present day. Documents from the 1894 Dreyfus case, as well as paintings by Chaim Soutine, Amedeo Modigliani and Marc Chagall. Open Monday-Friday 11 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-6 pm. Closed on Jewish holidays. 6.80 euros adults for the permanent collection (which includes a free audio guide), 8.50 euros for combined entry to temporary exhibitions. Hotel de St. Aignan, 71 Rue du Temple (3rd; Metro Hotel de Ville), Paris. Phone 01-5301-8660. http://www.mahj.org. This fabulous collection of the important art movements of the 20th century has been reopened after two years of renovations. Georges Braque, Juan Gris, Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Marc Chagall, Maurice Utrillo, Amedeo Modigliani and Fernand Leger are represented in the collection, as is an impressive selection of contemporary artists. Daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm, Wednesday till 10 pm. Main collection free; varying charges for temporary exhibitions. 11 Ave. du President Wilson (16th; Metro Iena), Paris. Phone 01-5367-4000. http://www.mam.paris.fr. Paris' most popular museum after the Louvre, this beautifully renovated, belle-epoque train station houses paintings and sculpture created from 1848 to 1914. Highlights include Manet's Dejeuner sur l'Herbe, Whistler's portrait of his mother, iconic works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Gauguin, Van Gogh, Cezanne and Monet's five paintings of Rouen Cathedral. You'll also find architecture, photography, decorative arts (furniture, silver, porcelain), jewelry, and a wonderful scale model of the Opera Garnier and its environs. Daily except Monday 9:30 am-6 pm (Thursday till 9:45 pm). Guided tours in English most days at 11:30 am. 8 euros adults for the permanent collection (special collections not included). Guided tours 6.50 euros adults. 12 euros for a same-day combination ticket to the nearby Musee Rodin. 1 Rue de la Legion d'Honneur (7th; Metro Solferino), Paris. Phone 01-4049-4814. http://www.musee-orsay.fr. Home to one of the most important collections of African art worldwide, this museum was named after the Dutch geographer Olfert Dapper who wrote the fundamental "Description de l'Afrique" (1668), but never actually left the Netherlands. It is particularily strong on African sculpture. The temporary exhibitions are also noteworthy. Daily except Monday 11 am-7 pm. 6 euros to the permanent collection. 35-bis Rue Paul Valery (16th; Metro Victor Hugo), Paris. Phone 01-4500-9175. http://www.dapper.com.fr. It's only fitting that the City of Love should have a first-class collection of erotica, and even more fitting that it be located among the peep shows and sex shops of the wondrous Pigalle district. Four floors of paintings, illustrations, sculptures and various objects allow you to explore erotica around the world from AD 200 to the present. Be aware that the contents of the museum—and even of its Web site—may be too erotic for some. Rebecca Rils, the erotic shop next door, stocks merchandise that may appear in the museum in a hundred years. Daily 10 am-2 am. 8 euros (5 euros if you reserve your ticket online). 72 Blvd. de Clichy (18th; Metro Blanche), Paris. Phone 01-4258-2873. http://www.musee-erotisme.com. The star attraaction of the recently refurbished Orangerie is the collection of huge Water Lilies canvases by Monet, displayed in their own space. Also there are the Jean Walter and Paul Guillaume collections of modern art featuring Cezanne, Renoir, Picasso, Rousseau, Matisse, Derain, Modigliani and many more. Daily except Tuesday 12:30-7 pm (Friday to 9 pm). 7.50 euros, free on the first Sunday of each month. Jardin des Tuileries (1st; Metro Concorde), Paris. Phone 01-4477-8007. http://www.musee-orangerie.fr. A wonderful restoration and new installations have brought this decorative-arts museum back to life. It's a pleasure to walk through it and admire the collections of furniture and the decorative arts, from the Middle Ages to 2000. If you are interested in fashion or advertising campaigns and posters, don't miss the Fashion and Textile museum or the Advertising museum that are also there. One entrance ticket covers all three museums. Open Tuesday-Friday 11 am-6 pm (Thursday till 9 pm), Saturday and Sunday 11 am-6 pm. 8 euros adults, free to anyone younger than 18. 107 Rue de Rivoli (1st; Metro Palais-Royal), Paris. Phone 01-4455-5926. http://www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr. The Louvre was the seat of French royalty from the 12th century; the current museum building was constructed in the late 16th century and was opened as a museum—the first in Europe—in 1793, in the wake of the French Revolution. The Louvre underwent a major expansion in the 1990s, beginning with the I.M. Pei-designed glass pyramid at the entrance and continuing with the Sackler Wing (financed by U.S. philanthropists Mortimer and Theresa Sackler), the Musee de la Mode et du Textile (Museum of Fashion and Textiles) and a shopping area called the Carrousel du Louvre. The Egyptian Wing is also open, and the Galerie d'Apollon has been restored to a magnificent gilded and painted glamour. A dizzying number of works are on display throughout the Louvre, from Egyptian, Greek and Roman antiquities to paintings and sculpture of the 19th century. Famous holdings include the Venus de Milo, the Winged Victory of Samothrace, Michelangelo's Slaves and Leonardo da Vinci's Portrait of Mona Lisa (follow signs for La Joconde—the painting's French name). There is no way to see everything in one day, so for your first visit, choose a wing, period or artist to concentrate on and plan to return. The opening of the Porte des Lions entrance has made lines shorter, and advance tickets are available at FNAC department stores. After being moved around during renovations, the Mona Lisa is now in the Salle des Etats in the Denon Wing, within close proximity to the Winged Victory and Venus de Milo. Pick up a map at the visitors desk and follow the signs for these works. For Da Vinci Code fans, the museum offers an audio guide with explanations given by actor Jean Reno. The Louvre sees around 7.5 million visitors per year and 30,000 works, a tenth of its collection, are permanently displayed. When all the art has worn you out, take a break in the beautiful Cafe de Marly situated in a side wing of the Louvre. Enjoy the view of the pyramid from the wind-protected arcades. Open daily except Tuesday 9 am-6 pm (Wednesday and Friday till 9:45 pm). Galleries begin to close 30 minutes early. 9 euros adults, 6 euros after 6 pm on Wednesday and Friday, 9.50 euros for temporary exhibitions, 13 euros for a combination ticket. Free the first Sunday of the month. Rue de Rivoli (1st; Metro Palais Royal-Musee du Louvre), Paris. Phone 01-4020-5151 (multilingual recording), 01-4020-5317 (information desk). http://www.louvre.fr. The Quai Branly Museum opened to great fanfare in 2006 as a museum dedicated to the culture and arts of "primitive" civilizations. Its controversial design, by French architect Jean Nouvel, evokes the rounded contours of a cocoon morphing into the angular lines of a container ship, with squares jutting out of its rounded body. It all lies low behind a glass wall near the Seine, not far from the Eiffel Tower. The collection is fascinating and well worth a visit. You may find yourself stumbling in the dark and confused by the reflecting glass display cases and theatrical lighting, but the objects marvelously illustrate the complexities inherent in understanding other cultures and world views. Daily except Monday 11 am-7 pm, Thursday-Saturday till 9 pm. 10 euros adults. Free for children younger than 18. 37-51 Quai Branly (7th; Metro Alma-Marceau), Paris. Phone 01-5661-7000. http://www.quaibranly.fr. This is a marvelous chronicle of fashion from the 18th century to the modern day. More than 100,000 garments are housed in the Renaissance-style palace of Duchesse Maria de Farrari Galliera. To preserve the collection, which is sensitive to light and pollution, the museum only offers changing temporary exhibitions. Check to see if there is a show under way before heading over. Daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm. 8 euros adults (includes audio guide). 10 Ave. Pierre Premier de Serbie (16th; Metro Alma-Marceau or Iena), Paris. Phone 01-5652-8600. http://www.galliera.paris.fr. This is a fine-arts museum, Japanese garden and Buddhist sanctuary all in one. The museum's annex is the magnificently refurbished, neoclassical Hotel Heidelbach. The museum's permanent collections of Japanese, Chinese, Tibetan and Indochinese art are world renowned. Its masterpiece is a 14-headed sculpture from Angkor Wat, Cambodia. Enjoy an authentic Japanese tea ceremony in the garden pavillion. Daily except Tuesday 10 am-6 pm (last admission 5:30 pm). 6.50 euros for permanent collection, 7 euros for temporary exhibitions (includes free audio guide). 6 Place d'Iena (16th; Metro Iena), Paris. Phone 01-5652-5300. http://www.museeguimet.fr. This wonderful 19th-century mansion is decorated with masterpieces from the Renaissance to the 19th century. The former home of a prosperous banker and a painter, it showcases the couple's fabulous collection of art, including works by such masters as Jean-Baptiste-Simeon Chardin, Rembrandt and Botticelli. If you have lunch or tea in the cafe, admire its spectacular ceiling painting by Giovanni Battista Tiepolo. Daily 10 am-6 pm. 10 euros adults, including audio guide. 158 Blvd. Haussmann (8th; Metro Miromesnil), Paris. Phone 01-4562-1159. http://www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com. The museum houses the private collection of Dina Vierny, a model for Aristide Maillol as a young woman and later an avid art collector. It has works by Maillol and his contemporaries, including Paul Gauguin, Pierre Bonnard, Wassily Kandinsky, Henri Rousseau, Henri Matisse and Raoul Dufy. Also hosts well-received temporary exhibitions. Open daily except Tuesday 11 am-6 pm (last admission 5:15 pm). 8 euros adults. 61 Rue de Grenelle (7th; Metro Rue de Bac), Paris. Phone 01-4222-5958. http://www.museemaillol.com. Located in a lovely 19th-century town house on Ranelagh Park, this museum houses the world's largest and most important collection of Monet canvases, as well as works from Monet's own collection, including paintings by Paul Gauguin, Alfred Sisley, Pierre-Auguste Renoir and Edgar Degas. On display is Monet's Impression, which spurred the artistic movement of that name. Particularly worth noting are the paintings of impressionist painter Berthe Morisot and the Wildenstein Collection of French, Italian, English and Flemish miniatures from the 13th to 15th centuries. Daily except Monday 11 am-6 pm, Tuesday till 9 pm (last admission 5:30 pm). 8 euros adults, 9 euros when there is a temporary exhibition. 2 Rue Louis Bouilly (16th; Metro La Muette), Paris. Phone 01-4496-5033. http://www.marmottan.com. This remarkable collection, housed in an elegant 17th-century mansion, covers several periods of Picasso's career but focuses particularly on the later years and the artist's ceramic work. All the art was given to France rather reluctantly by the heirs of Picasso's fortune as a material payment of the heritage tax. The museum also has works of Miro, Cezanne, Matisse and Braque from Picasso's private collection. Open April-September daily except Tuesday 9:30 am-6 pm; October-March daily except Tuesday 9:30 am-5:30 pm (last admission 45 minutes before closing). 6.50 euros. Hotel Sale, 5 Rue Thorigny (3rd; Metro St. Paul), Paris. Phone 01-4271-2521. http://www.musee-picasso.fr. Once home to the artist himself, this stately mansion is the perfect setting for Auguste Rodin's glowing white marble sculptures, and the beautiful garden is full of surprises. Some of the highlights include The Thinker, The Kiss, The Gates of Hell and a sculpture of the very rotund novelist Honore de Balzac. One room is dedicated to Rodin's mistress and pupil Camille Claudel, whose works have only been fully appreciated in recent decades. There is a cafe on-site with outdoor seating. Open April-September daily except Monday 9:30 am-5:45 pm (gardens open till 6:45 pm); October-March daily except Monday 9:30 am-4:45 pm (gardens open till 5 pm). Museum admission 6 euros adults, gardens 1 euro adults. Free for children age 18 and younger. Free on the first Sunday of the month. 12 euros for a same-day combination ticket to the nearby Musee Quai d'Orsay. 77 Rue de Varenne (7th; Metro Varenne), Paris. Phone 01-4418-6110. http://www.musee-rodin.fr. Discovery Palace is part of the Grand Palais, an art-nouveau glass-and-steel structure built for the 1900 World's Fair. It offers exhibits and films about dinosaurs, mineralogy, nuclear physics, earth sciences, math and chemistry, as well as an excellent planetarium. Open Tuesday-Saturday 9:30 am-6 pm, Sunday 10 am-7 pm. Museum: 7 euros adults, 4.50 euros children younger than 18. Special exhibitions have separate entrance fees. The planetarium costs an extra 3.50 euros. Avenue Franklin Roosevelt (8th; Metro Champs Elysees-Clemenceau), Paris. Phone 01-5643-2020. http://www.palais-decouverte.fr. Located next to the Musee d'Art Moderne, this hangar-sized space near the Trocadero, constructed for the World Exposition in 1937, is dedicated to contemporary artists working in a variety of media, from photography and painting to contemporary installations. An energetic museum that takes chances, the Palais de Tokyo is great for those who want to experience cutting-edge modern art. An extensive bookstore and design shop are on-site. Open daily except Monday noon-midnight. 6 euros adults, free for children younger than 18. 13 Ave. du President Wilson (16th; Metro Iena), Paris. Phone 01-4723-3886. http://www.palaisdetokyo.com. Built at the same time as the Grand Palais for the Universal Exposition of 1900, the Petit Palais became the Municipal Museum of Fine Arts in 1902. After five years of restoration and renovation, it has been reopened with a section dedicated to the permanent collection and an exposition area for temporary shows. There are more than 1,300 works of art from Roman antiquity to the early 20th century that are predominantly French, but foreign collections, such as Russian and Greek icons, are featured as well. Daily except Monday 10 am-6 pm. Free entry to the permanent collection. Fee for temporary exhibits varies. Avenue Winston Churchill (8th; Metro Champs Elysees-Clemenceau), Paris. Phone 01-5343-4000. http://www.petitpalais.paris.fr. The abbots of Cluny lived in this 15th-century Gothic cloister, which now houses a magnificent collection of tapestries (notably The Lady and the Unicorn series), medieval sculpture, illuminated manuscripts and stained glass. While there, see the ruins of the Cluny thermal baths (dating to AD 200) and Paris' oldest sculpture, Boatman's Pillar, made between AD 14 and AD 37. Contemporary gardens inspired by the medieval collections now encircle the museum. Open daily except Tuesday 9:15 am-5:45 pm (last admission 5:15 pm). Free through June 2008. 6 Place Paul Painleve (5th; Metro Cluny), Paris. Phone 01-5373-7800. http://www.musee-moyenage.fr. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
The Botanical Garden began as a medicinal herb garden in the 1600s and blossomed into a thriving 74-acre/30-hectare quilt of gardens, including a play area, a maze, a rose garden tracing the flower's history, an Alpine garden and greenhouses brimming with exotic plants. It's also a good spot for jogging—something pretty rare in crowded Paris. The garden is open daily sunrise-sunset. Free. 57 Rue Cuvier (5th; Metro Gare d'Austerlitz or Jussieu), Paris. Phone 01-4079-3000. http://www.mnhn.fr. Flanked by the Louvre, the Seine, Place de la Concorde and the Rue de Rivoli, the Tuileries are a perfect place to rest from sightseeing. An excellent example of French formal gardens—symmetrical and manicured, with terraces and pools—they were designed by legendary landscape architect Le Notre for Louis XIV in the mid-1600s as settings for the Tuileries Palace (destroyed during the Paris Commune of 1871). Much more recently, contemporary sculptures have been deployed in the space. Two wonderful small museums, the Jeu de Paume and the Orangerie, stand opposite each other on the Concorde side of the gardens. The garden is open daily sunrise-sunset. Free. Rue de Rivoli (1st; Metro Tuileries or Concorde), Paris. http://www.v1.paris.fr/EN/Visiting/gardens/jardin_tuileries.asp. Conceived by Marie de Medici, this well-manicured garden spreads out in front of the Palais Luxembourg, home to the French Senate. A broad expanse covered with centuries-old trees, winding paths, statues, lawns and reflecting pools, it's a wonderful place for people-watching—you'll see more Parisians than tourists. For children, there are pony rides, wooden merry-go-rounds, toy sailboats and a jungle gym. Open dawn-dusk. (6th; Metro Odeon). http://www.v1.paris.fr/en/Visiting/gardens/jardin_luxembourg.asp. Best known as the Trocadero—signifiying a memorial to the French victory against the Spanish in 1823—the space was originally designed for the 1937 World's Fair. The two prolonged, curved wings protect the gardens and house an ethnographic museum, a naval museum and the National Museum of Architecture and Heritage. The steps offer superb views across the Seine to the Eiffel Tower and lead down to a great open space for in-line skaters. Across from the Eiffel Tower (16th; Metro Trocadero), Paris. This wonderful rose garden is located in the Bois de Boulogne. Roses bloom June-October. Open Monday-Friday 9 am-7 pm (May-August till 8 pm), Saturday and Sunday 9 am-7 pm (May-August till 8 pm). Free access to the park, 4 euros adults during exhibitions or special events. (16th; Metro Porte Maillot, then take Bus 244). Phone 01-5364-5380. http://www.v1.paris.fr/en/Visiting/gardens/parc_bagatelle.asp. Verdant, rambling and hilly, the Buttes Chaumont is the most rugged of the Paris parks. Its lake contains an island that's accessible by boat or suspension bridge. A belvedere perched on the island affords a view of the Sacre Coeur basilica and the rest of Paris. Children will enjoy the rough-and-tumble landscape, the merry-go-rounds, swings, rocking horses and puppet shows. Daily 7 am-8 pm, June and July until 10 pm. Rue Manin (19th; Metro Buttes Chaumont), Paris. Phone 01-4030-9760. http://www.v1.paris.fr/en/Visiting/gardens/parc_buttes_chaumont.asp. One of the prettiest and most historic squares in Paris, the Place des Vosges was created by Henri IV during the early 1600s and was later home to writer Victor Hugo. (Hugo's former home, at No. 6 Place des Vosges, is now a museum dedicated to him.) Located in the heart of the Marais, the square is filled with grassy areas and sandboxes. Arcades (roofed promenades) ring the public area, where amorous couples stroll arm-in-arm amid the covered cafes and restaurants. Off Rue des Francs-Bourgeois (4th; Metro St. Paul or Bastille), Paris. | Amusement Parks | Top |
About 20 mi/32 km east of Paris in Marne-la-Vallee, and one-fifth the size of Paris itself, Disneyland Paris (formerly Euro Disney) encompasses two side-by-side theme parks. Disneyland Park has several hotels, numerous restaurants and five "theme worlds" with scores of rides and Disney's interpretations of the Wild West, small-town life in the U.S. and other motifs. The narrations are in French only. The other park, Walt Disney Studios, offers a behind-the-scenes look at the creation of movies, television shows and animated features. By train, take the RER A to the final stop, Marne-la-Vallee/Chessy. By car, take Highway A4 toward Nancy and Metz; get off at Exit 14-D, Marne-La-Vallee. Disneyland Paris is open Monday-Friday 10 am-8 pm, Saturday, Sunday and holidays 9 am-8 pm (opens at 9 am some days in summer; stays open until 10 pm late April-July, until 11 pm in August). Walt Disney Studios is open Monday-Friday 10 am-6 pm, Saturday, Sunday and holidays 9 am-6 pm. Note that opening times do vary enormously, even from week to week, and it is always best to call or check the Web site to confirm. All-day pass to either Walt Disney Studios or Disneyland Paris: 44 euros adults, 36 euros children ages 3-11. One-day pass to both parks: 54 euros adults, 46 euros children ages 3-11. Two-day pass to both parks: 95 euros adults, 78 euros children ages 3-11. Phone 01-6030-6053 for information and reservations. http://www.disneylandparis.com. This 50-acre/20-hectare zoo and amusement park has activities for children of all ages. Children can take a boat ride on the Enchanted River, ride through the park on the Dragon ride, see a puppet show or visit a miniature farm (individual tickets are required for each ride). The playground is one of the best in the city. The Explor@dome has plenty of interactive activities on science. June-September daily 10 am-7 pm; October-May daily 10 am-6 pm. 2.70 euros adults, free for children younger than 3. In the Bois de Boulogne (16th; Metro Sablons), Paris. Phone 01-4067-9082. http://www.jardindacclimatation.fr. | Zoos & Wildlife | Top |
During the siege of Paris by the Prussian army in 1871, the animals at Paris' oldest zoo were eaten by starving Parisians. Today all is well, and delighted children can be seen communing with baby animals. Open daily 9 am-5 pm. 7 euros adults, 5 euros ages 4-13, free for children younger than 4. In the Jardin des Plantes, 57 Rue Cuvier (5th; Metro Jussieu), Paris. Phone 01-4079-3794. | Other Options | Top |
Attached to the city's main mosque is a hammam, a Turkish-style steam bath with several chambers. (Men and women bathe separately.) The farther in you go, the hotter it gets. Bath attendants offer the brave (or unsuspecting) a massage that's almost as painful to watch as it is to endure. But afterward, you can relax on floor mats as servers bring around mint tea and sweets—from start to finish, it's an unforgettable ritual. Bathing suit required. Hours for women: Monday, Wednesday, Thursday and Saturday 10 am-9 pm, Friday 2-9 pm. Hours for men: Tuesday 2-9 pm and Sunday 10 am-9 pm. 15 euros-58 euros, depending on the range of services. Place du Puits de l'Ermite (5th; Metro Place Monge), Paris. Phone 01-4331-1814. http://www.la-mosquee.com/htmlfr/hammamfr.htm. A well-produced 50-minute film on the 2,000-year history of the French capital is projected on a giant screen. Headsets are available with your choice of 14 languages. There's also a miniature relief map of the city with all of the monuments, and an interactive guide to the city that lets you print out sightseeing itineraries. Shows daily on the hour 10 am-6 pm. 10 euros adults. 11-bis Rue Scribe (9th; Metro Opera), Paris. Phone 01-4266-6206. http://www.paris-story.com. Even in this dense urban setting, you can find many ways to work out—indoors in a health or sports club or outdoors in one of the many parks. Paris is filled with parks for lovers, children, joggers and skaters. Among the most jogger-friendly are the Champs de Mars gardens just behind the Eiffel Tower (Metro Iena), the Jardin des Tuileries (Metro Tuileries, Concorde or Louvre) and Parc Monceau (Metro Monceau). We especially like Parc Monceau for walking and jogging because of its quaint (if somewhat contrived) scenery: an English garden, false ruins, a grotto, a duck pond, and carefully cultivated greenery and flowers. It's open from sunrise to sunset.
For scenic walking, try the Promenade Plantee, which runs from Place Bastille (behind the opera house) above Avenue Daumesnil in the 11th arrondissement. This elevated former train route has been decorated with bushes and flowers, and it's a popular place to stroll. Or try the footpaths along romantic Canal St. Martin: 1.5 mi/3 km of locks, swing bridges and chestnut trees leading to the Parc de la Villette. And, morbid as it may sound, the Pere Lachaise Cemetery is an interesting place for a walk.
Tennis and indoor swimming are available, and Disneyland Paris has its own golf course. You can rent a bike in certain central Paris locations (the city is slowly building more bike lanes) or in such places as Versailles, Fontainebleau or the Bois de Boulogne. Bicycling outside of Paris is enjoyable because the countryside is attractive and flat. The City of Paris publishes a free brochure called Plan des Itineraires Cyclables (available in the Tourist Offices) that lists all bicycle lanes in Paris. On Sunday 10 am-4 pm, the quayside streets are closed to car traffic between Place de la Concorde and Pont de Sully (Rive Droite), and Musee d'Orsay and Passerelle Debilly (Rive Gauche), and are great for biking along the Seine during this time. You cannot transport your bike in the metro.
This bike rental stand is popular. Open mid-April to mid-October daily 10 am-7 pm; mid-October to mid-April Wednesday, Saturday and Sunday 10 am-7 pm. Bike rental costs 5 euros for three hours. In the Bois de Boulogne on Route de Mahatma Gandhi, near Porte de Sablons (16th; Metro Sablons), Paris. This company rents bikes and leads bike tours. Daily 9 am-7 pm. Saturday and Sunday, bicycle rentals are 4 euros per hour, 15 euros all day, 28 euros for the weekend. Monday-Friday, rentals are 10 euros all day, 25 euros for five days. A deposit of 200 euros per bike (credit-card imprint) plus a passport are required. 1 Passage Mondetour (1st; Metro Les Halles), Paris. Phone 08-1044-1534. http://www.rouelibre.fr. The friendly staff will help you choose the right bike from the large selection. Monday-Friday 9:30 am-6 pm, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-7 pm. Closed daily 1-2 pm. Weekend rental is 25 euros. 22 Rue Alphonse Bourdon (4th; Metro Bastille), Paris. Phone 01-4887-6001. http://www.parisvelosympa.com. This 18-hole course is considered one of the best in France. The club also has tennis courts and stables. Greens fees are 33 euros Monday-Friday, 49 euros for weekends November-February and August, 59 euros for weekends March-July, September and October. Chateau de Berticheres, Chaumont-en-Vexin. Phone 03-4449-0081. http://www.golf-paris.net. This golf and hotel complex is set in a nice wooded area outside of Paris. Greens fees for 18 holes are 50 euros Monday-Friday, 71.50 euros on weekends. Vieux Chemin de Paris (19 mi/30 km south of Paris), Etiolles. Phone 01-6989-5959. http://www.golf-paris.com. This is a public course and driving range. 4 euros for a bucket of 28 balls or 5 euros for a half-hour of golf. Smart Cards are used for entry; you can purchase one and add to its balance at the main desk. Hippodrome d'Auteuil, in the Bois de Boulogne (16th; Metro Porte d'Auteuil), Paris. Phone 01-4430-7000. http://www.golfduboisdeboulogne.fr. | | |