Playa retains its relaxed feel, in part, because there aren't a lot of attractions within the town itself (visiting the beach is still the primary daytime activity). That changes if you venture down Highway 307, however. Xcaret, an ecologically oriented theme park built around a lagoon, is just a short drive away, and it has enough activities (and people) to exhaust even the most energetic traveler. Farther down the road is Xel-Ha. Like Xcaret, it has a brilliant lagoon for snorkeling and offers dolphin swims and other diversions.
This bird-watching complex (pronounced
SHAH-MAN-ha) houses hundreds of Mexican birds in a tropical forest setting. Still and video photography are both allowed. No phone. Daily 9 am-5 pm. US$15 admission. Paseo Xaman-Ha (in the Playacar Resort), Playa del Carmen.
Pronounced
ISH-car-ett, this park is the type of place you'll either adore or hate. Those who like nature packaged into an easy-to-enjoy program with lots of activities will love it; those who don't like crowds will not (though the number of visitors goes down in the afternoon). There's plenty to see and do. You can float through underwater tunnels that are connected to a lagoon, swim with dolphins (for an extra fee) and tour Mayan ruins. Other features include a re-created Mayan village with actors in traditional costume, a museum housing scale models of historic Mayan sites, a botanical garden with an orchid farm, and caves where you can view mammals and bats.
When you need a break, there are two restaurants and a bar, as well as thatched palapas for respite from the sun. Don't miss the Mexican Cemetery with 365 colorful tombs or the Xcaret at Night show with its re-enacted Mayan ball game, plus Mexican folkloric dancing and music. New attractions include a Mexican wines tasting room and store, plus Henequen (Sisal) Hacienda, with a Yucatecan restaurant, museum and rope-making demonstration from the 19th century.
Be aware that you cannot use traditional sunscreens if you go swimming in the park, because they pollute the water and may harm the sea life. You will be provided with free, non-harmful sunscreen when you enter. Daily 8:30 am-9 pm. US$69 adults, US$35 children 40-55 in/100-140 cm tall. There is an extra charge for some programs. The Xcaret at Night dinner show is US$45 for adults and US$22.50 for children (the performance without the meal is included in the park admission fee). The park is on Highway 307, Playa del Carmen. Phone 871-5200. http://www.xcaretcancun.com.
The centerpiece of this private park (pronounced
SHELL-ha) is a clear, blue lagoon that was sacred to the Maya and is still visited by huge parrot fish. It's a beautiful place for snorkeling, sunbathing, reading and taking a dip. Swimming with dolphins costs extra. If you go, don't miss the floating bridge and nature walks. Note that the traditional sunscreen you take from home is not permitted, but a tube of eco-friendly sunscreen is given to you at the entrance. Masks and fins can be rented at the park. The park is off Highway 307, 25 mi/40 km south of town. Open daily 8:30 am-6 pm. Basic entry fee US$49 adults, US$30 children 40-50 in/100-140 cm tall. All-inclusive package (includes snorkeling gear, locker and towels, plus a buffet lunch and beverages) US$70 adults, US$45 children. Swimming with the dolphins costs an additional US$80-$125. Phone 998-883-3293. http://www.xel-ha.com.
| Parks & Gardens | Top  |
This Riviera Maya ecopark is a tranquil place with trails leading through natural vegetation to small cenotes where you can swim or snorkel (take your own gear). There are also local animals kept in rather small enclosures. Visitors can go horseback riding or grab a bite at the snack bar. Kantun Chi Ecopark is 14 mi/22 km from Playa del Carmen and 1 mi/1.5 km south of Puerto Aventuras. Daily 9 am-4 pm. Admission US$38.50 adults, US$32 children up to 12 years old, which includes a grotto tour, equipment and guide. Highway 307 (Riviera Maya km 85), Playa del Carmen. Phone 984-873-0021. http://www.kantunchi.com.
Most recreational activities in Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya center around the ocean, the beach and the surrounding jungle. Watersports are ubiquitous, with most hotels having some sort of tour desk offering snorkeling, scuba diving, Jet-Skiing, parasailing, fishing and other activities. Other popular recreational opportunities include sea kayaking, biking, hiking, skydiving, golf and Mayan ruin visits. Kiosks along the beachfront offer good prices on tours and recreational outings, and prices can be negotiable. There are also a bunch of tour outfits lining Avenida 5.
Beautiful, sheltered public beaches stretch north and south of the ferry dock in Playa del Carmen. Swimming there is especially enjoyable because the water is generally quite calm. The long stretch of sand between the ferry dock and the Blue Parrot Hotel is one of the most popular spots, since many of the town's hotels are within easy walking distance.
Another great spot is the stretch from the Hotel Gran Porto Real (at Avenida Constituyentes) north to Hotel Las Palapas (at Calle 36), where several beach clubs offer waterfront tables, activities and lounge chairs.
About 6 mi/10 km north of Playa del Carmen, off Highway 307, is Punte Bete, a palm-fringed, white-sand beach that is a lovely place to swim and snorkel. An attractive beachside resort there, Coco's Cabanas, has a collection of bungalows facing the beach with a swimming pool, showers and a restaurant.
Day visitors are welcome. Helmut's is a good place for lunch. (The area's nude beach is a bit north of Punte Bete.)
| Boating & Sailing | Top |
WaveRunner rentals are available at many spots along the beach. Rates run about US$60 for a half-hour. Boat tours and sailboat excursions depart from the beachfront and Puerto Aventuras, 13 mi/26 km south of Playa, and can be booked at any hotel or at the numerous watersports centers and kiosks that line the beach.
The drop-off near Playa del Carmen is a good place for fishing. Catch includes swordfish, blue and white marlin, shark, wahoo and barracuda, depending on the time of year.
In general, Playa has fewer charter operators than Cancun and Cozumel, but there are boats available. The easiest way to arrange a trip is to contact one of the hotels that provide booking services for the local captains. Beachside kiosks along the main stretch between the ferry dock and Calle 38 also offer fishing, as well as other excursions.
Adjacent to the Playacar Palace Resort, Playacar Golf Club is an excellent 18-hole golf course designed by Robert Von Hagge. Greens fees, including 1/2 cart, food and beverages, are US$190 for 18 holes, US$130 after 2 pm. Club rental costs US$30-$50. Round-trip transportation to and from the course from downtown Playa costs US$25. Paseo Xaman-Ha, Playa del Carmen. Phone 998-881-6088. http://www.palaceresorts.com/Golf/PlayaGolf/Golf_Intro.asp.
| Scuba & Snorkeling | Top |
Snorkelers and divers have plenty of options to choose from, depending on how far they want to venture. Divers will want to explore the waters off the island of Cozumel. Its reefs—Palancar, Colombia and Santa Rosa—are considered among the best dive sites in the Caribbean. There are more than 50 dive shops in Cozumel, many of which will pick you up at the ferry pier when you arrive on the island. Expect to spend about US$40 for a snorkeling trip and US$70 for a two-tank dive from a boat. Chankanaab National Park on Cozumel is a good choice for snorkelers, as is Xcaret, the nature park south of Playa.
Geographical features common to this area of the Yucatan are the cenotes, or ancient sinkholes, which are filled with clean, cold, fresh water. Many of these water tunnels lead to underwater caverns. Properly trained divers can explore the caves. Several tour companies in Playa organize diving and snorkeling trips to various cenotes.
You must be a certified diver and present your certification card to go diving, although some shops offer a supervised introductory course for beginners (check locally).
This small dive shop near the beach in downtown Playa is a PADI training facility and offers snorkeling plus night reef- and cenote-diving tours. A two-tank dive costs US$69; snorkeling starts at US$29. Calle 2 at Avenida 5 and Calle 10 at Avenida 5, Playa del Carmen. Phone 803-2389. http://www.scubaplaya.com.
Arranges diving and snorkeling trips to area reefs. A two-tank dive costs about US$70. Snorkeling for US$40; Cenote dives for US$110; Cozumel for US$135. Avenida 5 between Calles 8 and 10 (in the Maya Brick Hotel), Playa del Carmen. Phone 873-0302. http://www.tankha.com.
The oldest dive outfit in the area. They conduct trips to the cenotes and also specialize in dives for people with disabilities, plus certifications, Nitrox dives and snorkeling trips. Avenida 15 Norte between Calles 2 and 4, Playa del Carmen. Phone 803-1363. http://www.yucatek-divers.com.
| Tennis & Racquet Sports | Top |
Most of the all-inclusive resorts in Playa del Carmen and the Riviera Maya have their own private courts. There are also courts available in the Playacar development. There are no public courts available.
Most of the nightlife in Playa centers on the small bars and cantinas on Avenida 5 and the larger, trendier spots along Calle 10. There are also several fun places right on the beach, where you can while away the hours after sundown swilling cool drinks and enjoying the town's relaxing atmosphere.
The Blue Parrot is one of the favorites there. Senor Frog's, on the south side of the ferry pier, attracts a college-age crowd at night. If you want to catch a game on television, there are a number of sports bars along Avenida 5 that show ESPN and other sports programming, mostly from the U.S.
For the late-night scene, a couple of Cancun-style nightclubs can be found along Calle 10, just a couple blocks from the beach.
| Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
This casual bar and restaurant offers a comfy place to grab a bite, watch the game and sip some drinks. There are several plasma TVs, ice-cold beer and a patio overlooking Avenida 5, between calles 12 and 14. Phone 803-1872.
Sit inside and watch sports on TV or get a table along the sidewalk and watch the action along Avenida 5. This ever-popular bar boasts a selection of more than 75 tequilas. You can also sample a couple of microbrew beers from nearby Merida. Open daily 7 am-2 am. No cover charge. Most major credit cards. Avenida 5, between calles 10 and 12, Playa del Carmen. Phone 873-1061. http://www.tequilabarrel.com.
| Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
Marked by a 15-ft/4.5-m Buddha above the stage, Bali is more reminiscent of a club in Cancun or Miami than it is of Playa del Carmen. With a capacity of more than 1,000 revelers, it is the center of the town's late-night dance scene. Open daily 11 pm-4 am. Cover on busy nights is US$10, with open bar available for US$35. Most major credit cards. Calle 12 between avenidas 5 and 10, Playa del Carmen. Phone 803-2064. http://www.baliclub.com.mx.
During the day it's a beach club with lounge chairs, relaxing music and beachside snacks. At night it turns into a raucous dance club with a thatched-roof-covered techno dance floor and American and Latin pop music outside under the stars. Each night at midnight, fire dancers spin and twirl flaming batons while the crowd sits mesmerized. Cover charge US$10, but it includes a couple drinks. Most major credit cards. Calle 12 at the beach, Playa del Carmen. Phone 206-3350. http://www.blueparrot.com.
Named for a famous Mexican wrestler, this trendy multilevel club doesn't get going until after midnight and generally rages until at least 4 am. The crowd is international and hip, with partiers equally welcomed in T-shirts and jeans as they are in stylish dancing duds. US$5-$10 cover on busy nights. Most major credit cards. Calle 12 between avenidas 5 and 10, Playa del Carmen. Phone 803-2294.
Playa used to be rather disappointing for serious shoppers—many of them would head for Cancun or Cozumel to find their treasures. That's not true anymore: The number of boutiques and shops has multiplied tenfold in the past few years, and Playa now tops both of its neighbors for variety and quality, though the total number of stores is smaller.
Since a lot are run by ex-pats from around the world, you'll find not only English spoken, but also a smattering of German, French and Italian. There are Cuban-cigar shops, dozens of silver shops (most selling similar merchandise) and stores selling tequila, high-priced jewelry, Mexican crafts, decorative home products, exotic handmade soaps and other items. Some of the high-end jewelry and cosmetics boutiques from Cancun have opened branches in Playa.
Bargaining is common in the markets and at smaller stores, but expect to pay the marked price in the larger, more upscale establishments. Most businesses in Playa take U.S. dollars and prices are often marked in U.S. currency, though pesos are also accepted. (If a price is listed in pesos, it's usually marked M$.) The vendors may or may not accept credit cards, but even if they do, you often get a better price with cash.
| Shopping Hours | Top |
Store are generally open daily from 9 am to 9 or 11 pm. Some stores have shorter hours on Sunday.
This combination bookstore and clothing boutique is a good place to pick up guidebooks to Tulum, Coba and Chichen Itza. It also carries a small selection of international magazines. Daily 9 am-10 pm. Avenida Juarez (between calles 10 and 15), Playa del Carmen. Phone 873-0939.
Located at the entrance to a courtyard restaurant, this informal gallery features large, bright oil paintings featuring motifs of Mexico and the Caribbean. No phone. Avenida 5, between calles 6 and 8, Playa del Carmen.
The German proprietor of this shop will be happy to show you Mayan handicrafts, including jade and hand-carved wooden masks from Mexico and Guatemala, and to recount their history. Avenida 5 (between calles 6 and 8), Playa del Carmen. Phone 873-3388.
This indoor/outdoor market features more than 40 shops offering crafts, jewelry, T-shirts, souvenirs, leather goods, blankets, hats, shoes and other items. Bargaining expected. No phone. Daily 9 am-10 pm. Avenida 5, Playa del Carmen.
| Shopping Areas | Top |
The closest thing Playa has to a traditional mall is this shopping promenade near the ferry dock. The outdoor walkway winds through dozens of brand-name shops, restaurants and bars, offering everything from Rolex watches, top-quality scuba equipment and sushi, to tacky souvenirs, T-shirts and ice cream. Daily 9 am-10 pm. Located at the back of the town plaza, where Avenida 5 dead-ends, Playa del Carmen.
| Specialty Stores | Top |
This shop on the pedestrian-walkway section of Avenida 5 carries gorgeously carved amber, hard-to-find fire opals, jade, turquoise and some silver. Monday-Saturday, 9:30 am-10:30 pm. Avenida 5 (between calles 4 and 6), Playa del Carmen. Phone 873-2357.
Don't miss this tasteful store's high-quality Mexican crafts and textiles. The owner travels all over the country looking for inspiring creations. Avenida 5 between calles 6 and 8. Phone 803-1504. Daily 9:30 am-11 pm. Phone 803-1504.
A tequila-lover's dream, this shop offers more than 100 selections, ranging US$10-$250 per bottle. Shoppers can sample various tequilas before making their purchase. Open daily 9 am-1 am. Avenida 5, between calles 4 and 6, Playa del Carmen. Phone 873-0195.
If you hear a Latin song at a bar and want a copy to take home with you, this is a good place to find it. They have a good selection of music from Cuba, Mexico and Latin America, including meringue, pop and salsa. No phone. Daily 9 am-10 pm. Avenida 5, between Avenida Juarez and Calle 2, Playa del Carmen.
Silver and gold pieces from Taxco, Zacatecas, Guerrero and Guadalajara line the shelves of this well-stocked jewelry store. There are also semiprecious stones from Queretaro. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Most major credit cards. Plaza Marina (near the Cozumel ferry terminal), Playa del Carmen. Phone 873-0619.
This highly air-conditioned and well-kept retailer stocks high-quality diamonds, gold, emeralds, pearls, platinum, rubies, sapphires, tanzanite, topaz, and .925 and .950 silver. Open daily 9 am-9 pm. Two locations: Avenida Juarez at Avenida 5; and Avenida 5 at Calle 14, Playa del Carmen. Toll-free 800-515-3935. http://www.welcometoourworld.com.
Offers digital memory cards, underwater cameras, flash memory, development services and a self-service Kodak kiosk for scanning, sizing and printing photos. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Most major credit cards. Avenida 5 between calles 2 and 4, Playa del Carmen.
This regional chain store offers handmade leather goods, including boots, handbags, belts, hats and gun holsters. If you've got a week or more to wait, they can even create a pair of custom-made boots to your exact specs. No phone. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Most major credit cards. Avenida 5 at Calle 4, Playa del Carmen.
Offers authentic Cuban cigars, cigar-related T-shirts, lighters and related goods. No phone. Daily 9 am-9 pm. Avenida 5, between calles 6 and 8, Playa del Carmen.
To
Tulum. South of Playa on Highway 307 is Tulum, which was still inhabited when the first Spaniards arrived—it was said to have been larger than Seville at the time. Small compared with most archaeological sites, Tulum is the only major Mayan site next to the sea. The buildings don't rival Chichen Itza's in size or number—most are roped off to prevent damage by the hordes of visitors—but the setting is spectacular. A beach at the foot of the city adds to the picture-postcard quality of the area. The ruins now have a guided night tour using audiophones, which comes in six languages; depending on the time of year, the tour starts when it gets dark. Buses from Playa's ADO Bus Terminal drop passengers off at the turnoff to the ruins. The ruins themselves are less than a mile/kilometer east of the highway. Get there early in the morning to avoid the tour-bus crowds.
To Coba. If you have time and feel adventurous, take the inland highway branching off 307 near Tulum and head for this mysterious Mayan city, thought to have once been the commercial hub of the Mayan empire in the northern Yucatan and much larger than Tulum. Mostly unexcavated and covered by jungle, the site is crisscrossed with limestone-paved roads. It has some of the tallest pyramids and temples in the region. Dress for hiking, and take water and insect repellent. You may want to steer clear of Coba in July and August—temperatures can hover around 100 F/38 C at that time.
To Chichen Itza. One of Mexico's prize archaeological sites—named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World in 2007—sits in the middle of the Yucatan Peninsula, west of Playa. It contains a variety of buildings built between the fifth and 13th centuries AD. Intricate, graceful stone carvings are very well-preserved, and some of the artwork shaded from the sun still shows traces of color. The 79-ft-/24-m-tall, pyramid-shaped Temple of Kukulkan, or El Castillo, dominates the site and is the setting for the annual celebrations of the equinoxes, when the setting sun casts a beam of light onto the pyramid, resembling a slithering snake, the Maya serpent-god, Kukulkan. Chichen Itza is accessible by car, plane or bus. Tours usually include transportation and a guide and take a day.
Eco Colors
A pioneer of ecotourism along the coast, Eco Colors not only collaborates with the World Wildlife Fund and Smithsonian School on research projects but also has unique one-, three-, seven- and 15-day excursions into wildlife areas led by conservation specialists. For one-day trips, try an unforgettable jaunt into the 1-million-acre/405,000-hectare Sian Ka'an Biosphere, south of Playa, for a hiking, kayaking and snorkeling, or kayaking, boating, and archaeological adventure. You can also opt for excursions that include swimming with whale sharks, fly-fishing, turtle and crocodile sightings, and bird-watching. Prices start at around US$129 for adults, US$90 for children under 8, with a minimum age of 4. Pick-up in Playa del Carmen included in price. Calle Camaron 32, Smza 27, Playa del Carmen. Phone 998-884-9580. Toll-free 866-978-1046. http://www.ecotravelmexico.com.
Offers excellent soft-adventure tours to ruins and remote Mayan villages. One of the best outings visits the Coba archaeological site followed by a hike through the wild jungle surrounding the community of Pac Chen. There, you can descend into a cenote on harnesses and participate in other adventure activities, such as kayaking and flying down a zip-line. The finale is a lunch prepared by the women of the village on rustic wood-burning grills. Cost is US$115 per adult, US$105 for children aged 6-12. Three locations: Avenida 5 between calles 12 and 14; Avenida 5 between calles 26 and 28; and Calle 12 at the beach (between avenidas 1a and 5a), Playa del Carmen. Phone 803-9999. Toll-free 800-507-1092. http://www.alltournative.com.
This well-respected company offers a variety of adventure tours within what it claims to be the world's largest cavern-diving and snorkeling park. It was site of the IMAX film
Journey Into Amazing Caves. Hidden Worlds is about a 30-minute drive south of Playa del Carmen on Highway 307, which is the road between Playa del Carmen and Tulum. Dives start at US$70, snorkeling tours US$$40 for adults and US$20 children. Equipment is included. Phone 877-8535. http://www.hiddenworlds.com.mx.
Travelers seeking something different should check out this tour office on Avenida 5a at Calle 2. In addition to the requisite fishing, boating and snorkeling excursions, they offer tours to see the whale sharks north of Cancun, visits to Rio Lagartos to see flamingos and trips to the Sian Ka-an Biosphere, south of Tulum. Phone 873-2777. www.sergiotours.com.
This company offers tours to a variety of attractions in the region, and the staff will tailor an itinerary to fit your particular interests. Avenida 5a (between calles 4 and 6), Playa del Carmen. Phone 873-1385. www.tierramayatours.com.
We've designed three specific daylong itineraries to help you get the most out of your visit to the area.
PLAN A
Playa—and Perhaps Cozumel, Too
Playa is pretty small, but if you're not feeling terribly energetic, you can make a day of it. Walk the town and browse the shops in the morning while it's still cool. Then stop at Sabor, Karen's Seafood Grill or El Chino for some local food.
Spend the afternoon at the beach (the farther north you walk, the thinner the crowds) or head to one of the resorts south of the ferry pier—Playacar has everything a sun worshipper could want. Be sure to use plenty of sunscreen.
If, however, a half-day satisfies your curiosity about Playa, take the ferry to Cozumel (a 45-minute ride each way). Stroll along the pretty waterfront promenade and explore the streets of San Miguel, the island's only city. Afterward, catch a taxi to Chankanaab National Park for snorkeling and sunning. When you're ready, catch a taxi back to San Miguel.
Have dinner in one of the town's restaurants before catching the ferry back to Playa—the last one usually leaves around 10 pm, but double-check, because schedules change frequently.
PLAN B
A Chance to See Cancun
If you've heard stories about Cancun but never visited this renowned Mexican resort, pack your swimwear and get an early start. You can catch an air-conditioned bus at the ADO Bus Terminal, a block and a half from the ferry pier, get a group together and rent a car or hire a cab—the trip takes about an hour. Once there, ride along Paseo Kukulkan, the main thoroughfare, and gape at the outlandish architecture of the resorts.
Stop in one or two of the malls (if you're at all interested in shopping), or head to Playa Tortugas, the public beach on the northern end of the island facing Bahia de Mujeres. If you want to stop for lunch, try Savio's in the Plaza Caracol shopping mall or one of the trendy eateries across the street at the Forum shops area.
You may want to stay in Cancun for dinner and some nightlife at one of the resorts. If so, you may need to take a taxi back to Playa, as there may not be a public bus running late in the evening.
PLAN C
Tulum and Xcaret
Get an early start and take some water and easy-to-carry snacks with you—you may not get to a restaurant until early afternoon. At the ADO Terminal, catch a bus that's headed south to Tulum. It will let you off just a short walk from the seaside ruins.
Spend the morning walking around the site, which is breathtakingly beautiful, and pay a visit to the small beach at the foot of the ruins. When you're ready, return to the bus stop and catch a bus headed in the direction of Playa. Get off at the stop for Xcaret, the private nature park.
Have lunch when you first arrive, and then enjoy the various activities and the lagoon for the remainder of the afternoon. Catch the bus back to Playa or, if you wish to stay for the evening activities at the park, make arrangements to take a taxi back to Playa.
