Destination Guidebook for Shanghai, China, People's Rep of
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Start your exploration of the city with tea at Huxingting teahouse in Yu Garden. It is said to be the very teahouse on the willow pattern that graces crockery in homes across the world. Then explore the surrounding old Chinese city, with its quaint traditional homes and bustling antiques market and street-food stores, before strolling on the waterfront boulevard known as the Bund.
Stroll down the Nanjing Dong Lu, which has been transformed into a people-only thoroughfare, and soon you'll arrive at People's Square, an ideal spot for people-watching. There, you can see past and present Shanghai interacting: The "square" was originally an oval-shaped racetrack, and it's flanked by some of Shanghai's most modern skyscrapers and finest art-deco architectural treasures, such as the Park Hotel and former YMCA building on the north side. While you're there, don't miss China's ancient treasures on display at the gorgeous Shanghai Museum. Also check out local and international work at the Shanghai Art Museum or take an awe-inspiring look at Shanghai's future at the Urban Planning Exhibition Centre. The Jade Buddha Temple is a short cab ride away, as is Shanghai's vibrant contemporary art district on Moganshan Lu.
Be sure to spend some time in the former French concession, particularly around Huaihai Lu, Fuxing Lu and Sinan Lu, for a view of old Shanghai and the city's chic stores. You can tour the former residence of Sun Yat-sen, considered the father of modern China, and check out the Xintiandi area, which houses the site of the first Chinese Communist Party meeting as well as a host of upscale restaurants and bars.
One of the best ways to enjoy twilight is to make a trip to Pudong. Cross the Huangpu River on the ferry, view the Bund from the cafes and park flanking the Pudong riverside, and then catch a bird's-eye view of the city from the top of the modern, art-deco Jinmao Tower or the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, the gaudy, spaceshiplike symbol of modern Shanghai. If you still have some energy once night falls, take a Huangpu River night cruise or enjoy a leisurely cocktail-with-a-view on the grand terrace of one of the Bund's new generation of classy lounge bars.
Some spots outside Shanghai offer getaways from the city's urban chaos. If possible, take a day trip to the traditional gardens of Suzhou or to a quaint river town, such as Zhouzhuang. | Historic Sites | Top  |
Completed in 1918, this temple is new by Chinese standards. It's known (and named) for its more than 6-ft-/2-m-tall seated Buddha made of white jade, originally brought to Shanghai from what is now Myanmar (Burma). The temple is built with symmetrical halls and courtyards, upturned eaves and bright yellow walls—the ancient style of the Song (or Sung) dynasty. It's crowded with worshippers during Chinese New Year (usually, February). Daily 8 am-4:30 pm (the monks chant in the main hall 3:30-4 pm). Temple admission 20 yuan. Jade Buddha Hall admission 5 yuan. 170 Anyuan Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6266-3668. This awe-inspiring, 88-floor, pagoda-influenced, art-deco-style skyscraper is currently the tallest building in mainland China and among the top five tallest in the world. The city may be full of aesthetically questionable structures, but the Jinmao is an attractive mix of traditional and modern influences, as well as Eastern and Western. It blends the classic 13-tier Buddhist pagoda with postmodernist steel and glass. The ground floor contains exhibition space and an entertainment center. On the 88th floor, you'll find an observation deck that offers great views of Shanghai. Two high-speed elevators get you there in 45 seconds. Observation deck is open daily 9 am-9 pm. 50 yuan. 88 Shijie Dadao, Shanghai. Phone 5047-5588. Tens of thousands of Jews, first fleeing the Russian Revolution and then escaping Hitler, arrived in Shanghai from Germany, Austria, Poland and Russia in the first part of the 20th century. In 1943, the victorious Japanese forced all stateless Jewish immigrants into the "Designated Area for Stateless Refugees" in Hongkou District, where they lived until the end of the war. This synagogue was built in 1927. It no longer holds services, but its small museum documents the Ashkenazi Jewish community of old Shanghai. Open Monday-Friday 9-11:30 am and 1-4 pm. Free. 62 Changyang Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6512-0229. The people of Shanghai consider this their Eiffel Tower, although it's not half as elegant: It's gaudy and UFO-like, 1,535 ft/468 m high, and made up of 11 steel spheres of different sizes that are supposed to represent pearls (as in Shanghai, Pearl of the Orient). From the top sphere, visitors can enjoy a panoramic view of the surroundings. At the bottom is Space City, an amusement center with laser tag and an arcade, as well as the Shanghai History Museum. Go on a clear day. Daily 8:30 am-9 pm. 60 yuan-100 yuan. 1 Shijie Dadao, Shanghai. Phone 5879-1888. http://www.opg.cn. Shanghai's rather chaotic main square was built for the people ( renmin) and has become one of their most important social and cultural centers. Constructed in the mid-19th century by the British as a racetrack for the city's elite, today it's home to the Shanghai Museum, the Urban Planning Exhibition Hall, Shanghai Grand Theatre and municipal offices. The square's two tallest buildings house the Marriott and Royal Le Meridien hotels. The northeastern part of the square has been extensively remodeled, and the whole area is now a nexus of commuters and traffic, though the pleasant landscaping in front of the Shanghai Concert Hall attracts families and children to sit and chat as well as, on evenings and weekends, the city's skateboarding youth. It's bordered by Weihai Lu, Xizang Lu, Huangpi Bei Lu and Fuzhou Lu. The first National Congress was a secret meeting held in July 1921 at the Bo Wen Girls School, in the area that is now Xintiandi. Thirteen delegates including Mao Zedong, from communist, Marxist and socialist groups from around the nation, gathered in one small back room. The room stands today as it looked then, complete with a table set for 13 people at tea. There's a small museum with relics, documents and photos. Daily 9 am-5 pm. 10 yuan. 374 Huangpi Nan Lu, Shanghai. Phone 5383-2171. Dr. Sun Yat-sen was the father of the Chinese republic, which was established in 1911. He and his wife, Soong Ching Ling, lived in this two-story house 1919-24. Admission price includes a tour of the grounds and entrance to the museum. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm. 10 yuan. 7 Xiangshan Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6437-2954. This waterfront boulevard is Shanghai's most photographed landmark. Europeans, Japanese and Americans built their banks, clubs, trading houses, hotels and consulates there, in styles ranging from neoclassical and Gothic to art deco. Many of the historical structures, such as Nos. 3, 5 and 6, have been heavily renovated and converted into luxury shopping, dining and nightlife centers. Two architectural marvels to check out are the art-deco masterpiece that is the Peace Hotel, and the former Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank (No. 12, now the Pudong Development Bank), the dome of which is decorated with an exquisite Italian-tile mosaic. The Bund is a bustling gathering place for both tourists and residents at all times of the day and night. It's interesting to note that although overseas visitors tend to point their cameras west to the old structures, Chinese lenses are firmly focused on the modern skyscrapers across the Huangpu River in Pudong. The Bund stretches along Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu, between Jinling Lu and Suzhou Creek. After some time as a less-than-par art venue, this museum is increasingly growing into a premier spot for international and Chinese modern art and has been designated the host venue for the Shanghai Biennale. Its home was originally the Shanghai Racing Club before World War II. After liberation, it was the main branch of the municipal library. It remains a beautiful old structure renovated into a fine exhibition hall and recognizable by its landmark clock tower. You'll find some good contemporary art there, but nothing overly political or shocking. Exhibitions of varying interest and quality rotate through the museum, so check out what's showing before you go in. Information is presented in English. Daily 9 am-5 pm (last admission at 4 pm). 20 yuan. 325 Nanjing Xi Lu (at the northwest corner of People's Park, near People's Square), Shanghai. Phone 6327-2829. http://www.sh-artmuseum.org.cn. This small museum recalls Shanghai's pre-1949 heyday. Relocated to the Oriental Pearl TV Tower, it's an interesting place displaying more than 1,300 photos and artifacts, including the boundary tablets of the former International Settlement and French concession. It's also home to the famous bronze lions that once guarded the Hong Kong and Shanghai Bank on the Bund. Some information is presented in English. Daily 9 am-9 pm. 40 yuan. Gate 4, OTV Tower, 1 Shijie Dadao, Shanghai. Phone 5879-1888. http://www.historymuseum.sh.cn. This beauty of a museum opened in 1996. Shaped like a bronze ding urn, it's mainland China's foremost showcase of artifacts and relics. State-of-the-art galleries house paintings, sculpture, ceramics, calligraphy, jade, Ming and Qing dynasty furniture, and coins. The collection of bronzes is among the best in the world. Each gallery chronologically illustrates the development of the individual art forms over centuries. Information is well-presented in English, and the audio guide is highly informative. The excellent gift shop on the first floor has an extensive range of books and scrolls. Open Sunday-Friday 9 am-5 pm (last admission at 4 pm), Saturday 9 am-7 pm. 20 yuan (45 yuan for entry to Shanghai Museum, Shanghai Art Gallery and Shanghai Gallery; 60 yuan plus a 400-yuan deposit or your passport for the audio guide). Admission is free Saturday 5-7 pm. 201 Renmin Dadao, People's Square, Shanghai. Phone 6372-3500. http://www.shanghaimuseum.net. This impressive aquarium houses 300 species of fish and other marine life from China and around the world. Species include Chinese alligators, Chinese sturgeon, king penguins and giant salamanders. Much of the collection can be viewed from a 500-ft/155-m transparent underwater tunnel. Visitors can also opt to scuba dive in the shark tank. Information is presented in English. Daily 9 am-9 pm. 120 yuan adults, 80 yuan children, 600 yuan for scuba diving. 158 Yincheng Lu, Pudong, Shanghai. Phone 5877-9988. http://www.aquarium.sh.cn. Housed in a vast glass-and-steel building that includes an IMAX theater, this state-of-the-art museum is one of the largest of its kind in Asia. Interactive science exhibits let children and adults discover the wonders of the Earth's crust, new technological designs and the scope of life on the planet. Information is presented in English. Open Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm. 60 yuan. 2000 Shijie Dadao, Pudong, Shanghai. Phone 6862-2000. http://www.sstm.org.cn. Don't let the mundane-sounding name fool you: The Urban Planning Exhibition Centre is the city's monument to itself, stunningly showcasing Shanghai's development, past and present. Follow the crowds upstairs to a 1:1,000 scale model representing what the city should look like in 2020. You can find every individual building in Shanghai, from tiny one-story alley houses to towering skyscrapers. Anxious residents crane their necks over the model to see if their pleasant French concession houses will be left standing. The museum also features scaled models of yesteryear Shanghai. Open Monday-Thursday 9 am-5 pm, Friday-Sunday 9 am-6 pm. 30 yuan. 100 Renmin Dadao, People's Square, Shanghai. Phone 6372-2077. http://www.supec.org.cn. Lurking in the dark basement of a nondescript apartment block, this miniature museum charts three turbulent decades in modern Chinese history through colorful propaganda art. The posters provide fascinating insights into the political thinking that shaped a nation. The center is the brainchild of tour guide Yang Pei Ming, who has more than 5,000 propaganda posters and believes he has amassed the world's largest collection of Chinese revolutionary art. Open Monday-Saturday 10 am-4 pm, but it's best to call to arrange an appointment. 20 yuan. Room BOC, Basement, Block B (No. 4), 868 Huashan Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6211-1845 or 1390-184-1246. | Neighborhoods & Districts | Top |
This area in the former French concession is the most charming part of the city. It's a historic district known for its tranquil atmosphere and beautiful old architecture, as well as shops, bars and cafes. The main thoroughfare is tree-lined Huaihai Lu, a relaxed, upscale shopping street that is still marked by old French buildings. The Chinese used to consider Nanjing Lu the busiest street in the world, with its multitude of people, cars and bicycles. But in the late 1990s, the government closed off much of the eastern section to cars, cutting down on some of the chaos. Between Henan Lu and Xizang Lu, it is now a pedestrian walkway, full of shops and restaurants, as well as people-watching opportunities. The west part of Nanjing Lu, between Shaanxi Lu and Jing'an Temple, is now the city's showpiece upscale shopping district. This is Shanghai's financial center, and though much of it is still being built, it seems to grow a little more each day. It's hard to believe that until the early 1990s, rice paddies dominated the ground that now supports some of the world's tallest skyscrapers. Although most visitors forgo Pudong in order to see Puxi's historic centers, it's worth a visit for an eye-opening look at Shanghai's fast track to modernity. The central financial zone of Lujiazui is the heart of the district. Most of Pudong's attractions are along Lujiazui Lu. To the north of the road, along the Huangpu River, is the space-age Oriental Pearl TV Tower. Just south of the road is the Binjiang Dadao, the waterfront promenade. A little farther east stands the 88-story Jinmao Tower that houses the Grand Hyatt Hotel. The hotel has its lobby on the 56th floor and is listed in Guinness Book of World Records as the world's highest hotel. This area within the Zhonghua Lu-Renmin Lu circle remained under Chinese law and administration after the country was defeated in the first Opium War. And it was in these winding back alleys that Shanghai gained notoriety as a haven for gangsters and opium dens. Today the drugs and the crime are gone, but the narrow wandering lanes, crowded-yet-quaint neighborhoods and tiny, pre-1949 houses still remain. A stroll through the Old City offers a look at how most residents once lived. It's best visited during the day. This shopping, dining and entertainment area has become the second-most visited spot in Shanghai for Chinese tourists (after the Oriental Pearl TV Tower). Developed by a Hong Kong company and designed by Bostonian Ben Wood, Xintiandi is a massive creation meant to fuse the old Shanghai with the future one. Set along winding lanes, the development includes chic restaurants, bars and shops that are housed in renovated stone gate ( shikumen) homes, complete with redbrick, stone facades and terra-cotta roofs. A park and artificial lake border the area. The whole effect is a bit contrived and Singapore-clean, but young Chinese professionals and foreign expatriates like to go there to look fashionable and imbibe the latest in Western and Asian food and entertainment. Xintiandi also houses the site of the first meeting of the Communist Party. The very place where Mao Zedong and his comrades conceived the People's Revolution is now part of a trendy shopping and entertainment district: This mixture of capitalism and communism makes Xintiandi a perfect symbol for today's Shanghai. Xintiandi is in Luwan (former French concession) and is bordered by Taicang Lu, Huangpi Nan Lu, Madang Lu and Xingye Lu. Part of the former French concession, Xuhui is largely a residential district, but it is a nice area in which to stroll down pleasant tree-lined lanes. It is also home to some of the city's finest European-style houses and apartment blocks, and it showcases art-deco, art-nouveau and an assortment of other architectural styles from the late 19th and early 20th centuries. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
This sterile park that runs 8,200 ft/2,500 m along the Huangpu River features more concrete than grass. But it does offer limited views of the Bund and of the barges lazily running the river. Daily 8 am-9 pm. 5 yuan. Binjiang Dadao, Shanghai. This traditional, meditative Chinese garden was built 1559-77 by the Pan family, who were officials in the Ming dynasty. It was destroyed during the First Opium War but later rebuilt. Besides its signature bridges, winding walkways, carp-filled ponds, dragon-lined walls and pavilions, the gardens encompass an old opera stage, a museum dedicated to the Society of Small Swords rebellion against French colonialists in the mid-1800s, and the Chenghuang Si Miao (Temple of the City God). Some think the complex is too touristy (particularly on Saturday and Sunday when it gets very crowded), but it is one of Shanghai's few old attractions still left standing. Surrounding the garden is a modern bazaar of stores that sell overpriced arts, crafts and souvenirs. In the middle of the lake just outside the garden gate is the tranquil Huxingting Teahouse, which opened in 1856 and is said to be the very building depicted on the willow pattern on fine china. Although tea is cheaper on the first floor, the view is better from the top floor. A traditional tea ceremony is performed there every evening, 6:30-7:30 pm, accompanied by live traditional Chinese music. To get to the garden, you must wind your way through the bazaar to the ticket booth, which is just north of the lake. The gardens are bordered by Fuyou Lu, Jiujiaochang Lu, Fangbang Lu and Anren Lu. Daily 8:30 am-5 pm (teahouse is open till 9:30 pm). 25 yuan. Phone 6373-6950. Given its overwhelming air and water pollution, Shanghai isn't the best city for recreation. It is also huge and sprawling, meaning there is very little in the way of hiking or outdoor sports within easy reach—it would be necessary to board a plane or train and leave the city to pursue those activities. In recent years, many of the city's longer-term expatriates have started vibrant sports leagues for all types of team sports, as well as running groups.
Visitors may find it easier to participate in some of the city's indoor sporting options, which include swimming, tennis, snow skiing, bungee jumping, rock climbing, martial arts and scuba diving. Golfers will find several 18-hole golf clubs and driving ranges in Pudong and the outskirts of Puxi. A limited number allow nonmembers to play. | Boating & Sailing | Top |
Nonmembers and sailing enthusiasts are welcome to join club members each Sunday at the Shanghai Water Sports Centre on picturesque Dianshe Lake, 31 mi/50 km from downtown. A free shuttle bus runs from the city. No phone, but you can reach the commodore via the Web site: http://www.shanghaibyc.org. www.shanghaibyc.org. This comprehensive golfing enterprise offers a driving range, an 18-hole course and lessons. Shuttle buses available from central Shanghai. Driving Range: 20 yuan Monday-Friday, 25 yuan Saturday and Sunday for 30 balls. Greens fees: 200 yuan Monday-Friday, 280 yuan Saturday and Sunday. 9988 Zhongchun Lu, Qibao, Shanghai. Phone 6419-3676. A large, modern driving range overlooked by the imposing skyscrapers of Pudong's Lujiazui financial district. This excellent location makes it the best downtown golfing option. Nonmember per-hour prices range 60 yuan-120 yuan, for off-peak and peak weekday and weekend times. 501 Yincheng Lu, Pudong, Shanghai. Phone 6887-1700. http://www.lujiazui-golf.com. This Singaporean-run, family-oriented golf and country club is located on the outskirts of the city. Rounds of golf available for nonmembers, as are lessons from the pro shop. Greens fees 680 yuan weekdays, 980 yuan weekends. Phone 6983-3888. http://sunislandclub.com. This place provides snowboard courses and activities to snowboard lovers. 118 yuan per hour. Yinqixing Indoor Skiing Site, 1835 Qizin Lu, Shanghai. Phone 3415-1788. The whole family can enjoy these municipal facilities. Daily 7 am-10 pm. 30 yuan. 1300 Zhongshan Nan Er Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6438-1914. | Tennis & Racquet Sports | Top |
This sports group welcomes all levels. It organizes competitions, tournaments and training and can direct you to court facilities. Phone 1370-184-9343. | Other Options | Top |
Madonna's former personal yoga master, Duncan Wong, has set up Shanghai's most kharmic yoga center, nestled down a lane alley in an old French concession villa beside a Tibetan temple. It specializes in Ashtanga, hot and flow yoga, and Pilates. House 29, 1400 Bejing Xi Lu (near Tongren Lu), Shanghai. Phone 6247-2488. http://www.namasteyoga.com.cn. This facility boasts tennis, swimming, badminton, climbing, basketball and table tennis with reasonable fees per person or per court. 1111 Caoxi Bei Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6438-5200. http://www.shanghai-stadium.online.sh.cn. Shanghai's nightlife is now truly world-class, ranging from pulsing clubs that attract the world's top DJs and classy Bund-front cocktail lounges to playing pool at an American bar or sipping beer on a garden patio in a converted French concession villa. Most of the popular clubs don't close their doors until 3 am or so. Some stay open until dawn.
Things are always changing, however, with old bars shutting down and new bars popping up out of the blue. The smartest upscale bars are on the Bund, and the best place to barhop is in Luwan (in the former French concession), where you'll find Shanghai's most popular bar streets—Xintiandi and Tongren Lu, and the more downmarket, late-night Julu Lu. The area north of Nanjing Lu, near Tongren Lu, has a few old-style favorites such as the Long Bar, Big Bamboo, Spot Bar, Malone's and Mint.
Shanghai is also known for karaoke. It's ubiquitous, as KTV (Karaoke TV) establishments abound, with private rooms complete with serving girls, fine cognac and fruit platters. Just beware of the prices.
| Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
Occupying a renovated three-floor French concession villa, this is one of the city's friendliest and most laid-back bars. Owner Cotton Ding and her brother run a tight ship, serving well-priced beers, wines and cocktails, and bar food in a homely atmosphere—note the real fireplaces on each of the three levels. There's also a spacious garden patio and outdoor bar for the long, hot summer nights. Daily 11 am-2 am. 132 Anting Lu (corner of Jianguo Lu), Shanghai. Phone 6433-7995. Opened by the Boston architect who designed Xintiandi, DR Bar is housed in a former Communist Party meeting hall. But you won't find Mao uniforms there—you'll find a fabulously clad crowd sipping martinis in an equally sleek environment. Daily from 4 pm. Xintiandi, 181 Taicang Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6311-0358. Bar owners will claim that the locals are a fickle bunch—booming business at a preferred oasis quickly dries up when a new watering hole grabs their attention. Face is an exception. This large, tangerine-hued bar on the ground floor of a magnificent old concession-era house (set on the manicured grounds of Ruijin Guesthouse) is consistently busy with the air-kiss set. They go to take advantage of the 5-8 pm happy hour when drinks are half-price, to lounge on the silk-covered opium beds, to shoot pool and especially to be seen. Daily from 11 am. Building 4, Ruijin Guesthouse, 118 Ruijin Er Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6466-4328. Shanghai's classiest cocktail lounge is a clever melange of modern finesse and 1930s Shanghai chic. The large windows offer fine views of the Huangpu River, and the interior features a variety of modern and ancient sofas and armchairs, retro Chinese furnishings and art-deco accessorizing. The large ovular bar means service is always quick; the waiters mix a mean martini. Other highlights include a corner champagne bar, regular live jazz and classical music, and the annual Shanghai Literary Festival. Daily 5:30 pm-late. Five on the Bund, 5 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu (sixth floor), Shanghai. Phone 6350-9988. http://www.m-restaurantgroup.com. Brewmaster—and Texan—Gery Heyne serves up the tastiest, freshest microbrewed beer in the city. This cavernous bar and grill is located in a renovated former KTV disco on Sichuan Lu, two blocks back from the Bund. Daily 11 am until late. 33 Sichuan Zhong Lu (near Guangdong Lu), Shanghai. Phone 6321-7127. http://www.henrysbrew.com. Through the years, this sports bar has withstood Shanghai's fickle party crowds and become one of the most popular bars in the city, especially with foreign businesspeople passing through town. It has numerous TVs broadcasting sports events, a fabulous menu, two billiard tables, a dartboard and typical sports decor. DJs and a Filipino band provide music Tuesday-Saturday. Daily from 11 am. 257 Tongren Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6247-2400. Charming Sasha's serves up jugs of cold beer, quality comfort food and good times, along with a substantial dose of history, housed as it is in a charming, three-story villa in the old French concession. Once the home of T.V. Soong, one of the richest men in prerevolutionary China, the house later fell into the hands of Jiang Qing, Mao Zedong's wife, who made it administrative headquarters for her revolutionary Chinese opera troupe in the 1960s. Now renovated, it has brought sophistication back to one of Shanghai's most historical and delightful buildings. Daily from 11 am. 11 Dongping Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6474-6628. | Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
At night, this chic restaurant and bar turns into a nightclub setting with DJs spinning dance tunes on weekends. There may be a line of beautiful people at the door, but it's usually worth the wait. Open Sunday-Thursday from 8 pm, Friday and Saturday from 9 pm. Usually no cover, but on special nights when guest DJs appear, there may be a charge of about 100 yuan. 2 Gaolan Lu (in Fuxing Park), Shanghai. Phone 5383-2328. Shanghai's club crowd has deemed this place the late-night hangout. Rocking DJs spin the tunes, while young clubgoers crowd the bar, upstairs tables and suspended corridors above the pulsing dance floor. It's not as refined as what you'll find in the Xintiandi area, but at this late-night spot, who cares? Open Wednesday-Saturday from 9 pm. 50 yuan-100 yuan cover charge on weekends. Basement, 438 Huaihai Zhong Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6384-8777. Created by the same people responsible for Malone's, up-to-date Mint is a great place to go to see late-night international DJs as well as resident expatriate and Chinese spinners. There are also lots of theme parties and regular weekly theme nights. Nightly from 10:30. Cover varies. Second Floor, 333 Tongren Lu, Nanjing Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6247-9666. This three-level techno extravaganza attracts twentysomething dancers who are getting their first taste of clubbing. Nightly from 8:30. 40 yuan on Monday, Friday and Saturday, 30 yuan Tuesday-Thursday. Hong Kong Plaza, Fourth Floor, 283 Huaihai Zhong Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6390-7181. Giant, state-of-the-art club by London's hip Godskitchen DJ company. The central location and regular themed party nights draw a mixed Chinese-foreign clientele. A frequent stopping-off point for international "superstar" DJs doing the Asia circuit, as well as those hired by international drinks companies for special promo nights. Daily 9 pm-late. 1329 Huaihai Zhong Lu (second floor), Shanghai. Phone 133-2193-9299. Formerly a super-chic French techno club called Fabrique, 4 Live has been revamped as an earthy, live-music venue that attracts touring international as well as Asian and Chinese bands. The decor is simple and sparse, but the acoustics are good and the music menus ranges from punk to reggae to alternative rock. Daily 8 pm-late. The Bridge 8, 8 Jianguo Zhong Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6415-0700. The name stands for Cigars, Jazz and Wine. American and Australian jazz bands are imported to provide the music in this dark, chic, Xintiandi-area jazz club. The music is solid, and so are the drink prices. A second CJW venue, on the 50th floor of the Bund Center building (1 Bund Center, 222 Yanan Dong Lu), has an added attraction—panoramic city views. Nightly music from 9 pm. A minimum drink order of 100 yuan is required. House 2, Lane 123, Xinye Lu (Xintiandi), Shanghai. Phone 6385-6677, or 6329-9932 at the Bund Center. In its heyday in the 1930s, Shanghai was a metropolis associated with a swinging age of pink gin and jazz. Nowadays, most of the city's faux jazz joints simply feature student musicians from local music colleges. Club JZ, however, shakes up the scene with talented, enthusiastic musicians. They spar with each other, jamming and improvising every evening until the early hours, when the last Gaulois has been stubbed out. Daily from 5 pm. 46 Fuxing Lu (near Yongfu Lu), Shanghai. Phone 6431-0269. Despite the competition, this club remains a long-running favorite, specializing in late-night blues. The atmosphere is warm and suitably smoky, and the people are friendly. The house band is a mix of Chinese and foreign musicians who play Tuesday-Sunday nights. Nightly from 7:30. No cover. 1428 Huaihai Zhong Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6437-7110. A pleasant departure from Shanghai's constant trendsetting venues, this charming, beautifully designed, retro-China-meets-modernism restaurant and bar is accented by cushy sofas and Chinese antiques. Nights are filled with live traditional Chinese music. Nightly from 6. No cover. 1468 Hongqiao Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6295-3737. | Other Options | Top |
This popular KTV (Karaoke TV) establishment is a huge complex with rooms for 10-30. Song lists are long, prices are reasonable, and the fun is wholesome. Take a group of friends for a night of singing and drinking. Rooms vary in price. 457 Wulumuqi Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6374-1111. | Performing Arts | Top  |
Artistic development is slowly gaining momentum in Shanghai. Most visitors catch Era, renowned for incredible acrobatic feats and stunts, or a performance of traditional Chinese opera.
Traditional arts such as Beijing Opera and other regional Chinese opera are popular. China's best Kunju opera is in Shanghai. Although lesser-known internationally than Beijing opera, Kunju is considered more elegant, simpler and more melodic.
The premier place to see international and domestic theater, ballet and music is the spectacular, modern Shanghai Grand Theatre (Da Ju Yuan). The theater gives tours 8:30-11 am. It's also worth passing by at night, when its glass facade twinkles with lights. Although not on par with major orchestras from around the world, the Shanghai Symphony performs classical concerts at the Shanghai Concert Hall. Various international headliners use the concert hall when the symphony is not in its season. 523 Yanan Dong Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6386-9153. The troupe performs operas throughout the year. 9 Shaoxing Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6437-1012. This theater hosts performances of Beijing, Huju, Kunju and Shaoxing opera styles. 701 Fuzhou Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6351-4668. If you see only one acrobatic show in Shanghai, make sure it's Era. This spectacular fusion of Chinese acrobatics, dance, traditional theater and music is performed nightly, and it packs in the punters. The daredevil motorcycles-in-a-cage climax is breathtaking. Great entertainment. Shanghai Circus World, 2266 Gonghexin Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6652-5468. http://www.era-shanghai.com. Modern Chinese interpretation of international and local dramatic theater can be found at the Shanghai Dramatic Arts Center. High-quality performances—mostly in Chinese—in a quiet part of the former French concession. 288 Anfu Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6473-4567. This small theater hosts regular music and dance, including the famous (and spectacular) Shaolin kung-fu monks martial-arts shows, which play at least two seasons per year. 66 Jiangning Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6217-4409. This venue hosts international and domestic theater, ballet and music. Box office is open daily 9 am-7:30 pm. 300 Renmin Dadao, Shanghai. Phone 6387-5480. | Spectator Sports | Top |
Shanghai is increasingly a thriving city for spectator sports, and you can catch popular games of soccer and basketball, as well as international-standard golf, tennis, athletics and motor racing. The city now hosts major international sporting events in a variety of sports, including basketball, tennis, golf, motorcycling and motor racing.
The city's main sporting venue, Shanghai Stadium, is a grandiose, UFO-like stadium that seats 80,000 people. It hosts many athletic events, but its primary use is for soccer matches. The stadium will also be the site for many preliminary soccer matches for the 2008 Summer Olympics in August.
Basketball (both Chinese and U.S. league players) is played at Luwan Gymnasium. There you can see the Shanghai Sharks, where Houston Rockets star Yao Ming got his professional start.
The purpose-built Qizhong Tennis Centre, a one-hour drive from downtown, has hosted the season-ending ATP Tennis Masters Cup since 2005, and the Shanghai International Circuit at Anting hosts the annual Formula One motor racing and motorcycling Grand Prix, and the A-1 racing series.
The Shanghai Sheshan Golf Course hosts the annual HSBC Champions tournament, which has attracted such links luminaries as Tiger Woods, Michael Campbell and Jim Furyk. Thanks to Shanghai's obsession with commercialism and internationalism, the city has the widest variety of goods in the nation—except for Hong Kong. Shiny shopping malls now dominate the city's shopping streets. New downtown brand stores pop up nearly every month in an attempt to satisfy the locals' seemingly insatiable appetite for ming pai, or famous labels, with such upscale locations as the Bund and Xintiandi specializing in uber-chic brand boutiques. Two streets, Nanjing Lu and Huaihai Lu, have become the city's shopping meccas, and smaller venues such as Taikang Lu and Fuxing Lu offer small, independent boutiques as well as clothing and home-accessory stores. Outdoor markets located in the city's nooks and crannies are also interesting and give insight into Shanghai's bustling street life.
Antiques, Chinese arts and crafts, silk and linen are available in established stores as well as on the street. Be careful when buying antiques, however. Fakes are frequently hidden among the real treasures, and only items dated after 1797 can be legally exported. And no matter what you buy—particularly at markets—be sure to bargain vigorously. Settle for around 30%-40% less than the quoted price, but start your bargaining position by offering 10%-15% of what the dealer originally asks for. Keep in mind that a purchase is not a deal unless both sides think they've done well. | Shopping Hours | Top |
Generally, daily 10 am-10 pm. | Antique Stores | Top |
Accept no substitutes, Lin Hu has been collecting and restoring antiques for two decades, while Marybelle Hu worked at Taipei's National Palace Museum and Sotheby's Los Angeles. The sisters-in-law now run Shanghai's premier antiques emporium, which is free of the "is it real, is it fake?" stain that tarnishes the industry in Shanghai. Daily 10 am-8 pm. No. 8 Lane, 1885 Caobao Lu, Shanghai. Phone 3431-1212. Surprisingly, Shanghai is short on shops specializing in genuine non-Chinese antiques. Shangaitique's dark, moody, Agatha Christie-inspired interior is well-stocked with mint-condition armchairs, bookcases, sideboards and sofas that even Hercule Poirot would appreciate. It's not cheap, however: A small, glass-topped art-deco table, for example, will fetch 15,000 yuan. Daily noon-6:30 pm. 699 Huashan Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6249-5986. Offers Shanghai's best selection of foreign titles. The best-seller, business and travel guides sections are the strongest, and there's also a selection of international magazines. Daily 10 am-10 pm. Basement, Shanghai Times Square, 93 Huaihai Zhong Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6391-8237. A reasonable selection of travel guides, history books about Shanghai, and assorted foreign titles and magazines in an excellent French concession location. There's also a small coffee shop at the back of the store. Daily 10 am-10 pm. 325 Changle Lu (near Shaanxi Lu), Shanghai. Phone 5404-8729. This wonderful cafe is worth a stop, even if you're not looking for books. It has the feel of a country living room, where you can nurse a cup of coffee and browse shelves of Chinese art, architecture, history, literature, photography and coffee-table books. Many English-language books on old Shanghai are for sale. Open Monday-Friday 11 am-midnight, Saturday and Sunday 9:30 am-midnight. 27 Shaoxing Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6473-2526. | Department Stores | Top |
Expatriates love to shop at Isetan. It's one of the city's best and most fashionable stores. Daily 10 am-10 pm. 1038 Nanjing Xi Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6272-1111. One of the earliest in the tres-chic stores trend, Maison Mode is a permanent fixture on shoppers' maps. Expect to find many imported and expensive fashion labels. Daily 10 am-9:30 pm. 1312 Huaihai Zhong Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6431-0100. This has been Shanghai's largest and most important state-owned department store for decades. It used to reflect communist disarray, but today it looks shinier than ever. On weekends it attracts masses of Chinese shoppers. Daily 10 am-10 pm. 830 Nanjing Dong Lu, Shanghai. Phone 6322-3344. Several contemporary Shanghainese artists display their work in this expansive warehouse-type gallery. Open Tuesday-Sunday 10:30 am-5 pm. Fifth Floor, Building 6, 50 Moganshan Lu | | |