Destination Guidebook for Tokyo, Japan
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Tokyo's veneration of old traditions shows in the respect for and popularity of its many Shinto shrines and Buddhist temples that serve as an escape from the city's hectic pace. Two of the most popular are the Asakusa Kannon Temple and the Meiji Shrine. In contrast, Tokyo Tower, the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Office Building and Roppongi Hills are three of the modern landmarks, offering views of the city (and sometimes Mount Fuji) that you can't get anywhere else.
Tokyo has many museums showcasing Japan's art, history and culture. We enjoyed visits to the Paper Museum and the Hara Museum of Contemporary Art, but if you can manage only one, make sure to see either the Edo-Tokyo Museum or the Tokyo National Museum. Note: Most museums are closed on Monday unless a national holiday falls on that day, in which case they remain open but close on Tuesday instead. Some private museums, on the other hand, are closed on all national holidays.
Take some time to explore the distinctions between various areas of the city. Neighborhoods in Tokyo are really like small towns. Each offers different atmospheres and attractions, so choose a few and grab a subway map: Asakusa (temples), Roppongi (jam-packed nightlife), Harajuku (shrines and trendy shopping) and Ueno (beautiful park, museums and temples) are among your options.
Although green spaces are at a premium in the densely residential parts of the city, Tokyo has several parks and gardens worth visiting (besides the beautiful Imperial Palace Grounds, of course). These include the Hama Rikyu Garden, right by the Sumida River; the walled Rikugien Garden, in Bunkyo-ku, with its bonsai pines and miniature landscapes; Ueno Park, home to shrines and cherry blossoms; Yoyogi Park, along with the adjoining Meiji Shrine grounds forming the largest green space in the inner city; and Shinjuku Gyoen, with its traditional Japanese and European landscaping, as well as a teahouse where women in kimono serve traditional green tea and sweets to visitors.
Tokyo has little in the way of wildlife, but there is always the zoo in Ueno Park, plus a couple of very good aquariums. The city's theme parks provide an alternative form of amusement. The biggest one is, of course, Tokyo Disneyland and adjacent DisneySea. The top theme park in Japan, it's also one of the most popular tourist attractions in the world. But it is not the only amusement park in Tokyo: LaQua offers roller coasters, a Ferris wheel and lots more, and Joypolis Sega provides an electronic escape with its virtual-reality video games. | Historic Sites | Top  |
Anyone interested in the spiritual side of life should visit this temple dedicated to Kannon, the Buddhist deity of mercy and compassion. Tokyo's oldest temple (dating from 628) is also known as Sensoji Temple. It is one of the most popular sights in Tokyo and is always crowded with a festive atmosphere, particularly along the shop-lined pedestrian street leading to its main hall. The smoke from its incense cauldron is said to be beneficial to your health (especially the part of the body onto which it is rubbed—you will see many people doing this before going to pray). The three-day Sanja Festival is held at the temple in mid-May. During that time, about 2 million visitors gather to watch as mikoshi (portable shrines, often gilded) are carried around to the sound of Japanese drumming. Daily 6 am-5 pm (to 4:30 pm in winter). Free. 2-3-1 Asakusa (near Asakusa station on the Ginza or Asakusa lines), Taito-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3842-0181. This lesser-known Buddhist temple, dating from the 1600s, is one of the oldest structures in the city. If you happen to be in the city on New Year's Eve and don't mind standing in line in the cold, you'll get to be one of the lucky few who literally ring in the New Year. The temple's annual festival is held 9-10 July—visitors receive a talisman to help them avoid bad luck. Daily 10 am-4 pm. Free (¥2,000 New Year's Eve). 5-40-1 Otsuka (next to Gokokuji station on the Yurakucho Line), Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3941-0764. The former site of Edo Castle and now the residence of the Emperor of Japan, the palace is mostly out of sight behind a moat, high walls and trees. The East Garden is lovely, and the circuit around the moat is popular with joggers. The public is only allowed across the impressive Nijubashi Bridge and inside the main gates on two days of the year: the emperor's birthday (23 December) and 2 January. There are free guided tours of the Imperial grounds Monday-Friday, which require advance reservations (either by phone or at http://sankan.kunaicho.go.jp). The East Garden, which contains remnants of Edo Castle and a traditional Japanese garden, is open Tuesday-Thursday, Saturday and Sunday 9 am-5 pm in summer; to 4:30 pm spring and autumn; and 4 pm in winter (entry allowed until 30 minutes before closing). Free. 1-1 Kokyo Gaien (near Nijubashimae or Otemachi stations on the Chiyoda Line), Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3213-1111. This is Tokyo's most impressive Shinto shrine, dedicated to the emperor (and his consort) who ruled Japan during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. It was destroyed during World War II, but unlike most shrines around the country, it was rebuilt using traditional materials rather than concrete. The shrine is surrounded by a lovely park of thick woodland, with a highly recommended Iris Garden that blooms magnificently late June-early July (additional ¥300 fee). A small museum displaying treasures that belonged to the Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken is also on the grounds (additional ¥500 fee). Several million people visit the shrine during the first days of the New Year, and festivals are held there in May and November. The shrine tends to be busier with Shinto rituals on Saturday, Sunday and holidays—the best times to get a glimpse of weddings or other ceremonies. Daily 9 am-4:30 pm (November-February until 4 pm). Free. 1-1 Yoyogi, Kamizono-cho (next to JR Harajuku and Meiji-Jingumae stations on the Chiyoda Line), Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3379-5511. http://www.meijijingu.or.jp. Dominating the skyline of central Tokyo like a latter-day Godzilla, the massive 51-floor central tower in the Roppongi Hills complex has become the fulcrum of the city. After decades of planning and construction, this minicity opened to great fanfare in April 2003. It comprises offices, apartments, a hotel, the city's highest art museum (with an observation deck), art gallery, cinema multiplex and TV station, not to mention numerous restaurants and shops, plus, at the apex of the tower, one of the most exclusive clubs in Tokyo (membership only). Like it or loathe it, this is the new face of Tokyo. 6-10 Roppongi (Roppongi station on the Hibiya and Oedo lines), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 6406-6000. http://www.roppongihills.com/en/information. This is a peaceful refuge with a violent history. It's the burial place of 47 samurai who, after avenging their master's death, committed ritual suicide and were laid to rest next to his grave. The story has been immortalized in a famous Bunraku puppet play by Chikamatsu (later adapted for Kabuki) and is also the frequent subject of films and TV dramas. There's a small museum with videos and personal artifacts belonging to the samurai, a room containing carved statues of the samurai and a cemetery with their tombstones. There's also a scale model of Mount Fuji: You can "hike" the short trail to the top. The temple is open daily 7 am-6 pm (until 5 pm October-March). The museum is open daily 9 am-4 pm. Admission to the temple is free. Admission to the museum is ¥500 adults. 2-11-1 Takanawa (Sengakuji station on the Toei Asakusa Line), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3441-5560. For one of the best views of the city, head to the impressive, Kenzo Tange-designed City Hall in west Shinjuku, comprised of three buildings. There are observatories on the 45th floors of both its north and south towers, at a height of 663 ft/202 m. Panoramic photos below the windows are labeled—in Japanese and English—so you know what you're looking at. Mount Fuji, to the west-southwest, is usually obscured by haze, but its silhouette is often visible at sunset in winter. One or both of the observation rooms, which contain a small cafe and souvenir stands, are open daily 9:30 am-11 pm (last entrance 10:30 pm). Both observatories are closed 29 December-1 January and for regular maintenance checks. Free. 2-8-1 Nishi-Shinjuku (Tochomae station on the Oedo Line), Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5320-7890 for the observatory guidance desk. http://www.metro.tokyo.jp/ENGLISH/TMG/observat.htm. Roppongi's urban-renewal kid on the block is 25-acre/10-hectare Tokyo Midtown, which rivals nearby Roppongi Hills with its 130 fashion boutiques and restaurants, luxury hotel, condominiums, garden and art museum. It also boasts a medical center (a John Hopkins affiliate and the largest of its kind in Japan), as well as Tokyo's tallest skyscraper at 54 stories. 9-7 Akasaka, Minato-ku (Roppongi station on the Hibiya and Oedo lines), Tokyo. Phone 3475-3100. http://www.tokyo-midtown.com/en/index.html. Although Tokyo Tower has lost some of its appeal since the opening of the free TMG observatory in Shinjuku, it still affords a good view of the city center from its top deck. It was erected in 1958 as a replica of the Eiffel Tower, and at 1,092 ft/333 m, is actually taller. Its structure also contains several tourist attractions, including a wax museum, a Guinness World Records Museum and a museum of holography, each with separate admission fees. Daily 9 am-10 pm. Admission to the middle level main observatory, at 492 ft/150 m, is ¥820 adults. Admission to the uppermost level, a special observatory at 820 ft/250 m, is an additional ¥600 adults. 4-2-8 Shiba-Koen (Kamiyacho station on the Hibiya Line), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3433-5111. http://www.tokyotower.co.jp/english. No shrine in Japan is as controversial as this one, built in 1869 to commemorate Japanese war dead and causing an international furor every time a Japanese prime minister pays a visit, especially from neighboring Asian countries, who consider the shrine an embodiment of Japan's nationalistic past. Honoring the spirits of some 2.5 million Japanese war dead, the grounds contain a main hall, a Sunday flea market, glass cases filled with changing exhibits of ikebana (Japanese flower arrangements) and the Yushukan, a museum chronicling Japanese military history, including its invasion and colonization of Asian countries and both world wars. The shrine is open daily 24 hours, while the Yushukan is open daily 9 am-5:30 pm (to 5 pm October-March). Admission to the shrine is free; the Yushukan is ¥800. 3-1-1 Kudankita, Chiyoda-ku (Kudanshita, Ichigaya or Idabashi stations), Tokyo. Phone 3261-8326. http://www.yasukuni.or.jp/english. A hands-on exhibit of drums from around the world. It's a very small but interesting personal collection, housed upstairs in a festival, costume and instrument store in an old district of Asakusa. Wednesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm (last admission 4:30 pm). ¥300 adults. 2-1-1 Nishi-Asakusa, Nishi-Asakusa Building 4F (near Tawaramachi station on the Ginza Line), Taito-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3842-5622. Ignore the ugly, oversized exterior—this is one of the city's best historical museums and the only one imparting the history of Tokyo from the 17th century through the 1964 Olympics. There are wonderful reproductions and scale models, making this a good bet for the whole family. Volunteer guides are on hand for free personal tours in English. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5:30 pm, Saturday until 7:30 pm (last admission 30 minutes before closing). ¥600 adults, free for children. 1-4-1 Yokoami (near Ryogoku station on the JR Sobu or Oedo lines), Sumida-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3626-9974. http://www.edo-tokyo-museum.or.jp/english. We highly recommend this museum, which displays 11 life-sized reconstructions of 19th-century Edo (old Tokyo), including shops, houses and even a canal, brought to life with audio-visual effects. Daily 9:30 am-5 pm (closed second and fourth Monday of the month). ¥300 adults. 1-3-28 Shirakawa (near Kiyosumi-Shirakawa station on the Oedo Line), Koto-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3630-8625. Fans of Japanese animation from around the world flock to this whimsical museum dedicated to the works of Hayao Miyazaki, with displays related to Spirited Away and his many other films. Daily except Tuesday 10 am-6 pm. ¥1,000 adults. Admission is only available with advance purchase, which specifies the date and time of admission, available at Lawson convenience stores in Japan or through Japan Travel Bureau agencies in Japan or abroad. 1-1-83 Shimorenjaku, Mitaka City (Mitaka station on the JR Chuo Line, followed by a museum shuttle bus), Tokyo. Phone 0442-2233. http://www.ghibli-museum.jp. The first Japanese museum to specialize in contemporary art, it is housed in a noteworthy art-deco building. The permanent collection includes works from Asia, Europe and the Americas, focusing on post-1950s developments in art, but special international exhibitions are staged most of the year. Tuesday-Sunday 11 am-5 pm (Wednesday to 8 pm). Last admission 30 minutes before closing. Closed between exhibitions and during year-end holidays. ¥1,000 adults. Additional charge for special exhibits. 4-7-25 Kita-Shinagawa (a 15-minute walk from Shinagawa station on the JR Yamanote loop line), Shinagawa-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3445-0651. http://www.haramuseum.or.jp. A collection of 25 beautifully restored historical buildings that were relocated from all over Japan. It's a nice day trip to the green hills just outside Tokyo. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm (November-February 9:30 am-4:30 pm with last entrance at 4 pm). ¥500 adults. 7-1-1 Masugata (take the express train from Shinjuku station to Mukogaoka Yuen station on the Odakyu Odawara Line—about 20 minutes), Tama-ku, Kawasaki. Phone 044-922-2181. English assistance available. http://www.city.kawasaki.jp/88/88minka/home/minka_e.htm. This hands-on, user-friendly museum illustrates the latest in science and technology, with plenty of displays geared to adults and kids of all ages that make this the best of its kind in Japan. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-5 pm. Last admission 30 minutes before closing. Admission ¥500 adults. On Odaiba, 2-41 Aomi, Koto-ku (Telecom Center or Fune-no-Kagakukan stations on the Yurikamome Line), Tokyo. Phone 3570-9151. http://www.miraikan.jst.go.jp/index_e.html. Occupying the 52nd and 53rd floors of the main tower in the Roppongi Hills complex, the Mori Art Museum houses an eclectic range of special innovative exhibitions—and offers an awesome panoramic view of the city. Wednesday-Monday 10 am-10 pm; Tuesday 10 am-5 pm (hours may vary with individual shows). Admission ¥1,500 adults (¥1,200 advanced booking) but may vary with exhibition. Roppongi Hills Mori Tower 52-53F, 6-10-1 Roppongi (near Roppongi station on the Oedo and Hibiya lines), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5777-8600. (The Hello Dial number offers English assistance.) http://www.mori.art.museum/eng. Permanent displays of post-World War II Japanese and international art, plus special exhibitions, in a building that is itself a work of architectural art. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-6 pm (special opening hours and entrance fees for some exhibitions). ¥500 adults (supplementary charge for special exhibits). 4-1-1 Miyoshi (a nine-minute walk from Kiyosumi-Shirakwa station on the Hanzomon Line), Koto-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5245-4111. http://www.mot-art-museum.jp/english. This museum offers Japan's largest collection of Japanese art created since the start of the Meiji era (1868). The nearby Crafts Gallery, housed in a handsome, old redbrick building, displays changing exhibitions of Japanese handicrafts from the same period. Tuesday-Sunday 10 am-5 pm, Friday until 8 pm. Last admission 30 minutes before closing. ¥420 adults (sometimes more when special exhibitions are included). 3 Kitanomaru Koen (near Takebashi station on the Tozai Line), Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5777-8600. (The Hello Dial number offers English assistance.) http://www.momat.go.jp/english. This museum holds a fantastic array of Western art, from Renaissance paintings to Post impressionism, and also includes a large collection of Rodin sculptures. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm, Friday until 8 pm. Last admission 30 minutes before closing. ¥420 adults. 7-7 Ueno-koen (in Ueno Park near Ueno station on the JR Yamanote loop line, or on the Ginza Line), Taito-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3828-5131. http://www.nmwa.go.jp. This small museum contains life-sized shops, a tenement and everyday objects once found in the old downtown ( shitamachi) of Tokyo. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-4:30 pm (last entrance 4 pm). ¥300 adults. 2-1 Ueno-Koen (near Ueno Station on the JR Yamanote loop line, or on the Ginza Line), Taito-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3823-7451. http://www.Tokyo-cci.or.jp/sangyokanko/English/058.html. Changing exhibitions of Japanese antique arts and crafts from this private museum's own collection of ceramics, teaware, lacquerware, clothing and other items, as well as visiting exhibitions. All are artfully displayed in a modern setting that incorporates traditional Japanese design. Sunday, Monday and holidays 10:30 am-6 pm, Wednesday-Saturday 10 am-8 pm. Last admission 30 minutes before closing. ¥1,000 adults, but admission varies by exhibit. Tokyo Midtown, 9-7-4 Akasaka, Minato-ku (Roppongi station on the Oedo or Hibiya lines), Tokyo. Phone 3479-8600. http:// www.suntory.com/culture-sports/sma. Hidden amid the offices that surround The Tokyo Stock Exchange, the three small rooms that make up this tiny museum are bursting with about 300 kites collected from all over Japan and other parts of Asia. Monday-Saturday 11 am-5 pm. Closed Sunday and national holidays. ¥200 adults, ¥100 children. 1-12-10 Nihombashi (near Nihombashi station on the Tozai, Ginza and Toei-Asakusa lines), Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3271-2465. http://www.tako.gr.jp/eng/museums_e/tokyo_e.html. A sexy, undulating glass facade and soaring public spaces welcome visitors to Japan's latest national museum, which specializes in changing exhibitions organized by its own curators, Japanese artists' associations and international art institutions. Together with the nearby Mori Art Museum and Suntory Museum of Art, it's part of the Art Triangle Roppongi. Daily except Tuesday 10 am-6 pm, Friday until 8 pm. Last admission 30 minutes before closing. Admission determined by exhibition organizers, usually ¥500-¥1,500 per exhibit. 7-22-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku (Nogizaka station on the Chiyoda Line or Roppongi station on the Hibiya or Oedo lines), Tokyo. Phone 5777-8600. http://www.nact.up/english. The nation's oldest museum displays the world's largest collection of Japanese art, as well as Asian art mostly from China, with more than 100,000 treasured artifacts and artworks housed in five buildings. The Yoshio Taniguchi-designed Gallery of Horyuji Treasures contains artifacts from the first Buddhist temple built in Japan, the seventh-century Horyuji Temple, in Nara. Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm (April-September until 6 pm on Saturday, Sunday and national holidays; April-December until 8 pm on Fridays during special exhibition periods). Last admission 30 minutes before closing. ¥600 adults. Special exhibitons cost more. 13-9 Ueno-Koen (in Ueno Park, near Ueno station on the JR Yamanote loop line, or on the Ginza Line), Taito-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3822-1111. English assistance available. http://www.tnm.go.jp. Hidden away on the back streets of Harajuku, this museum holds Tokyo's best collection of Ukiyo-e woodblock prints, with changing monthly exhibitions culled from the museum's 12,000 prints. The collection includes many prints by masters such as Utamaro, Hiroshige and Hokusai, who had a strong influence on European impressionists such as van Gogh. The building is modern but, in traditional style; you have to remove your shoes upon entering. Tuesday-Sunday 10:30 am-5:30 pm. Last admission 5 pm. Closed from the 27th to the end of each month. ¥1,000 (admission can vary with show). 1-10-10 Jingumae (near Harajuku station on the JR Yamanote loop line, and Meiji-Jingumae station on the Chiyoda Line), Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3403-0880. English assistance available. http://www.ukiyoe-ota-muse.jp. | Neighborhoods & Districts | Top |
During the Edo period, Asakusa was an outlying village that flourished from the bazaar and entertainment district that developed around the famous Asakusa Kannon Temple. It retains some of that feeling, as it's still a haven for merchants, artists and craftspeople—take a stroll down its narrow, crowded streets and you'll be as close as you can get to the atmosphere of Old Tokyo. The area is a hodgepodge of small shops, game parlors, bars, bathhouses and workshops for artisans, including those who weave straw into tatami matting. The focal point of the neighborhood is the Asakusa Kannon Temple (also known as Sensoji). You enter through a massive red gateway, called Kaminarimon, or Thunder Gate. The walkway between the temple and the gate is lined with more than 80 permanent souvenir stalls offering everything from hairpins to rice crackers, reflecting the Japanese tradition of bringing home trinkets for family and friends after a trip. Across the river is another unmistakable landmark: Super Dry Hall, headquarters of Asahi Beer, Japan's largest brewers. It's a black granite building, designed by Philippe Starck and topped with a sculpture of a gold flame (which locals sometimes refer to as The Golden Turd). An unusual way of looking around the area is to take a rickshaw tour. You will see the rickshaw pullers dressed in traditional happi coats outside the Kaminarimon entrance to Asakusa Kannon. Some of the rickshaw men speak basic English. Be aware that it is not inexpensive (¥15,000 per hour for two passengers), and it can be a chilly ride in winter. From the pier by the bridge, you can take boat rides down the Sumida River—the view along the banks may be gritty, but Hama Rikyu Garden is definitely worth a visit. Asakusa Station (on the Ginza or Asakusa lines), Taito-ku, Tokyo. The broad avenue through this neighborhood had already been dubbed the Champs Elysees of Tokyo, even before the major French (and other) fashion-design houses began building luxurious showrooms along its tree-lined length. Formerly known as Omotesando, it was built as an impressive approach to the Meiji Shrine. The latest building to adorn this thoroughfare is the impressive Omotesando Hills development (designed by Tadao Ando), replacing the much-loved but terminally decrepit prewar dojunkai apartments. The backstreets of Harajuku, on the other hand, are lined with hip hair salons and trendy youth-fashion boutiques. The narrow shopping street called Takeshita-dori (a block away from Omotesando) is a mecca for teenagers, most from out of town, who flock there to load up on hip-hop and Hello Kitty regalia. For more traditional culture, visit the Ukiyo-e Ota Memorial Art Museum to view Edo-era woodblock prints. Yoyogi Park, surrounding the shrine on the other side of the JR tracks, is a favorite gathering place for students, skateboarders and street performers—a great area for people-watching. At the other end of Omotesando is Aoyama, a yuppified version of Harajuku, with name-brand boutiques selling Japanese and international designer clothing. Harajuku station on the JR Yamanote Line; or Meijijingumae, on the Chiyoda Line, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. This huge area of reclaimed land jutting into Tokyo Bay is one of the city's subcenters and playgrounds. Its attractions include a large exhibition hall, Tokyo Big Site; a maritime museum; a science and technology museum; the futuristic Fuji TV building; two major hotels; shopping malls, including Decks, site of the Joypolis amusement center; a multiplex cinema; the Oedo Onsen hot-spring theme park; numerous restaurants; a huge Ferris wheel; a replica of the Statue of Liberty; Zepp Tokyo, one of Tokyo's most famous concert halls; Megaweb, a Toyota showcase and amusement hall; and an artificial beach. (Warning: The water is too polluted for anything except wading up to your knees.) Half the fun of a visit is getting there on the unmanned, fully automatic monorail which runs over the bridge. It's worth lining up ahead of time for seats right at the front. Odaiba is hugely popular with dating couples. Take the Yurikamome Line from Shinbashi to Odaiba Kaihin-koen, Daiba or Telecom Center stations; alternatively take the JR Rinkai Line. It's not a zoo, but it has plenty of wildlife. Packed with restaurants, as well as nightclubs and establishments of lesser repute, Roppongi after dark is just plain raucous, and it keeps right on rocking through the night. Defined by the Tokyo Tower at one end and the Tokyo Midtown high-rise development at the other, with several foreign embassies in between, the area is a magnet for expats, overseas travelers and Japanese revelers who enjoy spending time with foreigners. Roppongi caters to Americans in particular by offering up the familiar, in the form of a Hard Rock Cafe, McDonald's and late-night doughnut shops. In addition, the Roppongi Hills entertainment, shopping and business complex has become a mecca for trendy Tokyoites and out-of-town visitors. Roppongi Station (on the Hibiya and Oedo lines), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Roppongi Station (on the Hibiya and Oedo lines), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Home to a beautiful park that's a massively popular place for viewing the cherry blossoms in the spring, Ueno also boasts a variety of superb museums, a concert hall and a zoo. The Toshogu Shrine was founded in memory of the first Tokugawa shogun, who unified Japan and founded the city that became Tokyo. It's one of the few original Edo-period structures that survived the various disasters that have befallen the city. Across the street from Ueno Station, you'll find the backstreets of Ameyoko, a former hive of black-market activity where myriad pachinko game parlors crowd in beside lively market stalls, small shops and inexpensive eateries. Ueno Station (on the JR Yamanote Line or on the Ginza Line), Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo. | Parks & Gardens | Top |
During the Edo Period, this large park on the edge of the bay was used by the shoguns as a duck-hunting preserve. Once a remote stretch of wetlands, it is now shielded from the open water by concrete flood barriers and overlooked by the looming high-rise buildings of Shiodome; but even so, it is a pleasant place to visit, especially if combined with a ferry ride up the Sumida River to Asakusa. The focus of the garden is a traditional teahouse set in the center of a saltwater pond that rises and falls with the tide. Visitors reach the teahouse by crossing a bridge that supports wisteria trellises. Daily 9 am-5 pm, last entrance 4:30 pm. Closed year-end and New Year's holidays. ¥300 adults. 1 Hama-Rikyu Teien (Shiodome station on the Oedo Line), Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3541-0200. http://www.tokyo-park.or.jp/english/park/detail_04.html#hamarikyu. Gardeners painstakingly tend to the plants and grass with traditional secateurs in this beautifully manicured, traditional Japanese garden, created in 1702 by a feudal lord. It features a teahouse and man-made inclines, as well as ponds teeming with carp and turtles. Daily 9 am-5 pm (last entrance 4:30 pm). Closed year-end and New Year's holidays. ¥300 adults. 6-16-3 Hon-Komagome (Komagome station on the JR Yamanote loop line or Sengoku station on the Toei Mita Line), Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3941-2222. http://www.tokyo-park.or.jp/english/park/detail_08.html#rikugien. This grassy, tree-covered park, sprawling across 144 acres/58 hectares, makes a very pleasant place to relax for a few hours. Featuring a mix of Japanese and Western gardening styles, it has a French formal garden, an English landscape garden and a traditional Japanese garden, along with ponds, a teahouse, a moon-viewing pavilion and a botanical garden. It's a lovely place to view the cherry blossoms in early spring (usually at the beginning of April). Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-4:30 pm (last entrance 4 pm). Daily during cherry blossom season (late March-late April) and Chrysanthemum Exibition (early- to mid-November). ¥200. 11 Naito-cho (Shinjuku-Gyoenmae station on the Marunouchi Line), Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3350-0151. http://www.env.go.jp/garden/shinjukugyoen/english/index.html. This wonderful park contains a handful of museums, including the Tokyo National Museum and the Ueno Zoo. It also has several temples, shrines and an aquarium. Explore the wooden Kiyomizu Kannondo temple overlooking the lake; stroll out to Bentendo, a shrine dedicated to Benten/Benzaiten (one of the traditional seven deities of good fortune), nestled on an island in the middle of a beautiful, reed-filled lake; and search out the ancient Toshogu shrine, dedicated to the first Tokugawa shogun and approached via an atmospheric alley of massive stone lanterns. Ueno is a prime spot to see cherry trees when they're in bloom. The zoo is old (established in 1882) and cramped, but it's still home to a famous panda from China. The park is open 24 hours. The zoo is open Tuesday-Sunday 9:30 am-5 pm (last entrance 4 pm). Admission to the park is free. Admission to the zoo is ¥600 adults, free for children and the disabled. Ueno-Koen (Ueno station on the JR Yamanote loop line, or on the Ginza Line), Taito-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3828-5171 or 3828-5171 for the zoo. http://www.tokyo-zoo.net/english. | Amusement Parks | Top |
The amusement park of the future is great for both adults and children. It has a huge selection of the latest video games, and the newest arcade games on display. The virtual rides are amazing. There are plenty of bars and restaurants outside, overlooking Tokyo Bay. ¥500 adults, ¥300 children. You'll pay an additional ¥300-¥600 for each ride or game. Or you can purchase a nori-hodai passport, which includes park admission and entrance to all rides and games: All-day pass ¥3,300 adults, night pass (after 5 pm) ¥2,300 adults. Small discounts for children. Daily 10 am-11 pm (last admission 10:15pm). 1-6-1 Daiba (Odaiba Kaihinkoen station on the Yurikamome Line), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5500-1801. English assistance available. http://sega.jp/joypolis/tokyo/home_e.shtml. This amusement park in the center of Tokyo is home to Thunder Dolphin, one of the Top 10 fastest and tallest roller coasters in the world, and the world's first centerless Ferris wheel. The park also sports several other coasters, including Linear Gale, the world's first hanging-type linear roller coaster, and GeoPanic, an indoor jet coaster. Also in the park are a bowling center that is open year-round, a deluxe onsen (natural hot spring) spa, and a stage on which several performances are held throughout the year. Monday-Friday 10 am-10 pm; Saturday, Sunday and holidays 9:30 am-10 pm. Shorter hours in winter. Fees vary with individual rides. You can buy a ¥4,000 pass that allows multiple access to all rides. Discounts available for children. 1-3-61 Koraku, Bunkyo-ku (Korakuen station on the Marunouchi or Namboku lines), Tokyo. Phone 5800-9999. English assistance available. http://www.tokyo-dome.co.jp/e/laqua. Tokyo Disney Resort contains two amusement parks, Tokyo Disneyland and Tokyo DisneySea, as well as hotels, restaurants and an extensive shopping mall. It's a very popular destination for Japanese tourists, as well as visitors from other Asian countries, and for good reason: It has many of the same attractions as the Disney parks in the U.S. and Europe, but it's a lot closer. However, we don't recommend that Western visitors go to Tokyo Disneyland (unless you really need to buy the T-shirt or appease the kids): There's not much there that you won't find in Disney parks in the U.S. and Europe at lower prices. English is spoken by park staff, but many of the audio narrations are only in Japanese. The adjoining DisneySea, however, is unique to Tokyo and offers more rides and fun, with nautical-themed areas such as Lost River Delta and Arabian Coast. More romantic than it sounds, it's become a popular place to take a date. Opening times vary from month to month, with typically longer operating hours in summer daily from 8 or 9 am-10 pm. Check exact schedules and attraction availability for each day online. A one-day pass that offers unlimited admission to rides at either park: is ¥5,800 adults, discounts for seniors and children. 1-1 Maihama, Maihama station on the JR Keiyo or Musashino lines, Urayasu City (about 35 minutes from central Tokyo; take a shuttle bus from Tokyo station or the Tozai Line to Urayasu station, then the shuttle bus to the gates), Chiba. Phone 045-683-3777 or 047-310-0733. English assistance available. http://www.tokyodisneyresort.co.jp/index_e.html. | Other Options | Top |
These miniature trees have been carefully pruned, tweaked and stunted for years until they come to resemble gnarled, full-grown trees in the wild. Some are more than 100 years old. There are several different styles of bonsai shown here, including miniature landscapes and forests on a single tray. The half-dozen bonsai shops that comprise Bonsai Village, close to Omiya City in Saitama Prefecture (about an hour northwest of Tokyo), are the place to see the best examples—especially if you are a true bonsai enthusiast. The shops are generally open Friday-Wednesday 8:30 am-5 pm. Free. 96 Bonsai-cho, Kita-ku (Omiya-Koen station on the Tobu-Noda Line), Omiya. Phone 048-666-2400. In and around Tokyo you can find almost every type of recreation—tennis, swimming, horseback riding, skiing, even hang gliding. Expect all recreational facilities and sites to be unbelievably crowded, especially on weekends and national holidays, and many are shockingly expensive.
Given Tokyo's congested roads, it's much more pleasant to bicycle on the riverside than contend with traffic. The city's major rivers have bike paths alongside: There is good cycling for miles/kilometers down the Tamagawa and Arakawa rivers, and the routes of the Sumidagawa and Megurogawa also have quiet streets nearby. Some hotels have rental bikes available.
This lifestyles shop has bicycles available to rent. Open daily 10 am-8 pm. Monday-Friday ¥525, Saturday and Sunday ¥1,050. 3-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda-ku, near Ginza and the Tourist Information Center (Yurakucho station on the JR Yamonote loop line or the Yurakucho Line), Tokyo. Phone 5208-8241. | Bird Watching | Top |
Tokyo does provide some opportunities for bird-watching thanks to its collection of parks. Although you are unlikely to see many rarities, you might find a few of Japan's more-common varieties that are endemic to Asia. Day trips to Kamakura, Hakone or Nikko offer the opportunity to combine bird-watching with sightseeing.
This nine-hole, par-31 course is in the north of the city. Open Monday-Friday 6:30 am-2 pm, Saturday and Sunday 6:30 am-11 am (closing times represent the last available tee time). Only a little English is spoken, so ask your concierge to call ahead to reserve your time. Reservations required. Monday-Friday ¥3,000 for the first round, ¥2,000 for the second round; Saturday, Sunday and holidays ¥3,500 for the first round, ¥2,000 for the second round. 1-15-1 Shinden, Adachi-ku (Oji station on the JR Keihin-Tohoku Line or Oji-Kamiya station on the Namboku Line), Tokyo. Phone 3919-0111. | Spas and Health Clubs | Top |
Each of the Tokyo wards has its own health clubs and other sports facilities, which are also usually open to nonresidents for a small fee. In addition, most large hotels have swimming pools and gyms. Fees can sometimes be exorbitant. | Hiking & Walking | Top |
You can go hiking in beautiful mountains just 90 minutes from Tokyo by train. It's a major pastime for locals. Trail maps are available for sale, but they're always in Japanese. Instead, look for Gary Waters' Day Walks Near Tokyo, which details 25 walks within easy reach of the city, and his followup More Day Walks Near Tokyo. Highly recommended is the Lake Tanzawa to Yaga Trail. It takes you up Mount Ono for superb views of Mount Fuji. Some of the trails in the Tanzawa region can be dangerous—it's best to go with people who know the area.
The best and easiest place to walk or jog in Tokyo proper is around the Imperial Palace. You'll find many joggers there early in the morning. Other options include the jogging course around Shinjuku Chuo (Central) Park, located in the hotel district on the west side of Shinjuku station, and Sumida Park, which stretches along the Sumida River in Asakusa.
The season for climbing Mount Fuji runs through July and August. Buses to the base camp (known as the Fifth Station) depart and arrive from outside Shinjuku station. Or you can take the JR Chuo Line from Shinjuku station to Otsuki station, and then the Fujikyu Line to Kawaguchiko station (total trip time is about three hours), then take a bus from there to the fifth station. Most people climb at night in order to view the sunrise from the summit. Be warned, though, that at an altitude of 12,388 ft/3,776 m, it is extremely cold at the top, even in midsummer. Weather conditions can change rapidly, so dress appropriately. Expect huge crowds. | Horseback Riding | Top |
Hidden away at the back of Yoyogi Park is the tiny Tokyo Horse Riding Club, aimed at children more than 10 years old who want to learn to ride. Be aware that the instructors likely will not speak English. Tuesday-Sunday 9 am-5 pm (last ride starts at 4 pm). Closed Monday. Non-members Tuesday-Friday ¥8,500, Saturday and Sunday ¥8,800 for a 30-minute lesson. 4-8 Yoyogi Kamizono-cho (Sangubashi station on the private Odakyu Line), Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3370-0984. English assistance available. The most popular course is the circuit around the moat of the Imperial Palace, a distance of 3.5 mi/6.4 km. You'll find many joggers there early in the morning. Other options include the jogging course around Shinjuku Chuo (Central) Park, located in the hotel district on the west side of Shinjuku station, and Yoyogi Park, with a loop around NHK and the former Olympic swimming pool and gymnasium. Most of the larger hotels have their own pools, but even hotel guests usually have to pay to use them, and many allow outsiders to use them for a higher fee. There are also public pools in some parts of town. Outdoor swimming pools are generally open only in July and August, even at hotels.
A popular option if you don't mind crowds and bossy, officious lifeguards. It has both 82-ft/25-m and 164-ft/50-m pools. Monday-Friday 9 am-11 pm, Saturdays 9 am–10 pm, Sundays and holidays 9 am-9 pm. Admission ¥600 for two hours (gym only ¥450 for two hours). 1-17-1 Sendagaya (near Sendagaya station on the JR Chuo Line or Kokuritsu-Kyogijo station on the Oedo Line), Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5474-2111. http://www.tef.or.jp/tmg. If you're thinking about a night out on the town, keep in mind that some of the smaller clubs and bars may not welcome outsiders unless they're introduced by their regular customers. There are plenty of other bars and Japanese-style drinking establishments that do, however, particularly in cosmopolitan nightlife areas like Roppongi.
Tokyo nightclubs are definitely for the young (rarely older than 30), and the action doesn't get under way until about 10 pm. Otherwise, a hotel bar may be more to your liking. Usual hours for bars and clubs are 6 pm-midnight, although in Roppongi and Shinjuku, the action often continues throughout the night, especially on Friday and Saturday. There's a concentration of gay and lesbian bars in the Shinjuku 2-chome area, but many are private clubs.
Also on the nightlife landscape are hostess bars and karaoke bars. Unless you're desperate to try a hostess bar, where a pretty woman (who may not speak English) entices you into buying very expensive drinks for her, it's best to steer clear. You may want to skip the karaoke bars (unless your Japanese business associates insist), because most of the music played is Japanese. | Bars, Taverns & Pubs | Top |
This classic, old-style beer hall has managed to survive with its remarkable 1930s interior intact. The look is Bavarian, but the ambience (and the Sapporo beer) is entirely Japanese. If you're not in town in the right season to experience a rooftop open-air beer garden, this is the place to go—if you're willing to pay a little more than average for your food and drink. English menu. Monday-Saturday 11:30 am-11 pm, Sunday 11:30 am-10:30 pm. Most major credit cards. 7-9-20 Ginza (Ginza station on the Ginza, Hibiya and Marunouchi lines), Chuo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3571-2590. Views of a 400-year-old garden are the highlights of this casual lounge, which also offers breakfast, a lunch buffet and a light snack menu in addition to pricey cocktails, so be sure to get there before sunset. English menu. Daily 7 am-10 pm. Most major credit cards. Lobby floor, Hotel New Otani Tokyo, 4-1 Kioi-cho, Chiyoda-ku (Akasaka-mitsuke station on the Ginza or Marunouchi lines or Nagatacho station on the Hanzomon or Chiyoda lines), Tokyo. Phone 3265-1111. http://newotani.co.jp/en/tokyo/restaurant/gardenlounge/index.html. Old hands will recognize the name as a former Roppongi hangout famous for its Heartland microbrew, but it's been reinvented as a classy bar in Roppongi Hills, a magnet for young professional Tokyoites and expats. Scarce seating and artwork on the walls keep people milling about as though it were an art gallery. English menu. Daily 11 am-5 am. 6-10-1 Roppongi, Minato-ku (Roppongi station on the Hibiya Line), Tokyo. Phone 5772-7600. http://www.heartland.jp/english/index.html. Selected by Wallpaper Magazine as one of The World's Best Rooftop Bars. Sky-high views over Shinjuku, with prices to match. American jazz nightly, accompanied by cognac, brandy, cocktails and California wines. English menu. Sunday-Wednesday 5 pm-midnight, Thursday-Saturday 5 pm-1 am. Cover charge ¥2,000 starting at 8 pm Monday-Saturday, from 7 pm Sunday. Park Hyatt Hotel 52F, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku (Hatsudai station on the Keio Line or Tochomae on the Oedo Line), Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5322-1234. English assistance available. http://www.tokyo.park.hyatt.com/hyatt/hotels/entertainment/lounges/index.jsp. Located in the upper stratosphere of the Shinagawa Prince Hotel, this venue offers a 360-degree view of Tokyo from various lounges, including Tokyo Bay and, on clear days, Mount Fuji. The East Lounge offers a popular weekday buffet, while the North Bar, facing downtown Tokyo, is the only one with a cover charge (¥500 starting at 5 pm). English menu. Daily 11:30 am-2 am. 39th floor, Shinagawa Prince Hotel, 4-10-30 Takanawa, Shinagawa-ku (Shinagawa station on the Shinkansen Bullet Train and Yamanote loop line), Tokyo. Phone 3440-1111. http://www.princehotelsjapan.com/ShinagawaPrinceHotel/shinagawa-restaurants.asp. | Dance & Nightclubs | Top |
Until late evening, this cavernous, French-owned basement space serves good bistro food in a hip setting. Then the tables are cleared away and it segues into a hip dance club, often featuring guest DJs (many from Europe). It attracts a much more mature crowd than the rest of Shibuya. Monday-Friday 5:30 pm-midnight, Saturday 11 am-5 am, Sunday 11 am-11 pm. Cover ¥1,300 with one drink. Zero-Gate 1F, 16-9 Udagawacho (Shibuya station on various lines), Shibuya-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5428-5100. http://www.lafabrique.jp. Yellow attracts a good selection of international DJs and has some of the city's most popular music (from house techno to hip hop) and events, not to mention a hip clientele. ID checks are common because of its youthful crowd (over 20 only). Monday-Saturday from 10 pm for most events, closed some weekdays for private events. Cover charge ¥2,500-¥4,000 with one drink. B1, B2 Cesaurus Nishi-Azabu, 1-10-11 Nishi-Azabu (near Roppongi station on the Hibiya Line or Nogizaka station on the Chiyoda Line), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3479-0690. http://www.club-yellow.com. Tokyo has no shortage of good clubs and is a stop-off on many international artists' tours. For up-to-date listings and to find out what's hot, pick up a copy of Metropolis (http://metropolis.co.jp) or check the weekly listings in The Japan Times.
Hawaiian music two to three nights a week, plus jazz, especially swing jazz performed by Japanese musicians. Monday-Saturday 6 pm-midnight; live music from 7 pm (usually three shows a night). Cover ¥3,600. Akasaka KT Building 5F, 3-16-7 Akasaka (Akasaka station on the Chiyoda Line), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3583-3456. English assistance available. http://www.birdland-tokyo.jp. The Blue Note Tokyo is the hot spot for world-class jazz, nu-jazz, blues and roots-music acts, from Pharaoh Sanders, Courtney Pine and George Benson to Incognito, Dr. John and Marcos Valle. Monday-Saturday from 5:30 pm, with shows at 7 and 9:30 pm; Sunday from 5 pm, shows at 6:30 and 9 pm. Music charge varies (usually ¥7,350-¥10,000); no table charge, but you can only stay for one set. 6-3-16 Minami-Aoyama (near Omotesando station on the Ginza, Chiyoda and Hanzomon lines), Minato-ku, Tokyo. Phone 5485-0088. English assistance available. http://www.bluenote.co.jp. They're Japanese, but the four musicians performing Beatles songs at this Roppongi club sound convincingly like the real thing, making this a sellout for decades. Weekend reservations are a must. Monday-Saturday 6 pm-2:30 am, Sunday 6 pm-midnight. Cover ¥1,890 for men, ¥1,575 for women, plus a one-drink minimum and 10% service charge. Drinks start at ¥525. 5-3-2 Roppongi, Minato-ku (Roppongi station on the Hibiya or Oedo lines), Tokyo. Phone 3405-5207. This live-music venue opened December 2005. It's sleek, intimate and only for those with a generous budget. Show times 7 and 9:30 pm; Sunday and holidays 5 and 8 pm. Doors usually open an hour before showtime. Music charge varies with the artist, usually ¥5,250-¥9,975. Most major credit cards. Tokyo Building TOKIA 2F, 2-7-3 Marunouchi (near Tokyo station on the JR and Marunouchi subway lines), Chiyoda-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3215-1555. English assistance available. http://www.cottonclubjapan.co.jp. This is a club with a variety of performers, including men dressed as women. Role changes are a traditional part of Japanese theater. (The women's parts in Noh and Kabuki are performed by men, and the men's parts in the Takarazuka revue are performed by women.) It might throw you at first, but it's great fun when you get into the swing of things. There are two separate shows each evening. Monday-Saturday doors open at 6 pm; show times 7:30 and 9:50 pm. Reservations required. Entrance ¥2,000; you must order one drink and one dish; drinks and food from ¥700; 20% service charge added. Sumitomo Building 49F, 2-6 Nishi-Shinjuku (Tochomae station on the Oedo Line), Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3344-6591. English assistance available. http://www.garconpub.com. This venue is a top choice for local groups launching world tours, but it also stages other mega events as well, including live performances and appearances of well-known international DJs. Open four to five nights a week, depending on whether there's an event; doors open around 5 or 6 pm, with performances starting about one hour later. 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya-ku (Ebisu station on the Hibiya Line or Yamanote loop line), Tokyo. Phone 5464-0800. | Performing Arts | Top  |
Japan's unique performing arts date back centuries and reached their creative peak during the Edo period when the country was almost totally | | |