A name synonymous with tropical relaxation, Tahiti is the busy hub of French Polynesia, located 160 mi/260 km southeast of Bora Bora. Most of the activity is centered around the city of Papeete (pronounced
pah-pay-EH-tay). It's the part of the island most visitors see, if only in passing.
Papeete's Faa'a Airport—4 mi/6 km west of Papeete—handles all international flights and many interisland planes, and many of the cruise and freighter excursions begin at Papeete's harbor. We recommend you stick around for at least a two-night stay, however. This exciting city has many flashy boutiques, a colorful local market, black pearl museum and throbbing nightlife. As the only real city in French Polynesia, Papeete can teach you a lot about life in the South Pacific. And although you will experience some traffic jams and noise, it's relatively clean, safe and efficient for a city in the developing world.
Sightseeing
If you have the time to venture out of Papeete, we suggest you head out along the north shore of the island. Make a stop at Point Venus, on the outskirts of Papeete. Matavai Bay, which is enclosed by the point, was used as an anchorage by many of the early European ships to reach Tahiti. Captain Cook built a fort on the point during his first visit to the island. The black-sand beach near the point is a popular seaside destination. Farther east is the Arahoho Blowhole, where water from incoming waves explodes through a hole in the rocks.
If you continue along the 75-mi/117-km coastal road, you'll reach the town of Taravao, where the two portions of the island meet. Here you can choose to head along the north coast of Tahiti Iti toward Tautira or along the south coast to the surfing town of Teahupoo. Both these roads end in a dead end, and the eastern portion of Tahiti Iti can be reached only by boat or on foot. A little past the blowhole is the turnoff for the Trois Cascade (three waterfalls), which is a short walk from the parking area.
If you continue to circle Tahiti Nui, you'll soon reach the Gauguin Museum, which details the artist's life and has some reproductions of his work. The wonderful Harrison Smith Botanical Garden is right next door. It has a lovely miniature forest of Tahitian chestnuts and other examples of local plant life. From there, the road circles back toward Papeete. About 9 mi/15 km from the city, you'll reach the Museum of Tahiti and its Islands, which has good historical and cultural displays.
Recreation
Tahitian surfers ride the waves at many points, but white sandy beaches are in short supply because the sands of this volcanic island are black. To find the beaches of your dreams, you must cross the Sea of the Moon to Moorea.
Nightlife
Papeete is one of few places in French Polynesia where things remain lively well into the night. Try to visit at least one of the clubs or discos to watch the locals cut loose on the dance floor.
Shopping
Start with a walk along the harbor. Just a few blocks inland is the Papeete Market, which is a must-see. Catering to both tourists and residents, it includes handicrafts, flowers and fresh-food items. There's lots of local color—people sitting on the floor making flower leis, tables full of brilliantly colored fish, locals drinking Hinano beer in the upstairs bar and restaurant. The crafts are largely souvenir grade, but it's a good place to pick up small knickknacks and woven-pandanus items.
For pricier fare, you'll find galleries, pearl shops and designer-clothing stores on nearby blocks, especially near Vaima Centre. Walk along the waterfront to the southwest for about five minutes to find the Robert Wan Pearl Museum, which explains the pearl-growing business and gives you yet another chance to make a purchase.
Transportation
Tahiti has one big advantage over other islands as far as visitors are concerned. It has a frequent, reliable and inexpensive form of public transit—Le Truck. These modern buses and more interesting, old-style wooden ones, follow set routes and can transport you short distances in and around Papeete or all the way around the island. They're safe and a great way to immerse yourself in local life.
