Though there are many contenders for the title, the best hummus restaurant in Tel Aviv is easily Abu El-Abed. A simple workers' restaurant, it's located quite a distance from the tourist sites in the Old City of Jaffa. But getting to the restaurant is worth the effort because the hummus and other common Middle Eastern dishes are served fresh and at their best. The restaurant also offers steaks, shishlik (Jewish kebabs), fish and stuffed vegetables. Finish the meal with a small glass of strong Turkish coffee. Daily for lunch and dinner. Reservations not accepted. $. No credit cards. 92 Yefet St., Jaffa, Tel Aviv. Phone 681-4665.