On the third floor of the noisy Azrieli Shopping Mall, Eyal Shani, one of Israel's most famous chefs, has created an oasis of Mediterranean serenity. A set dinner starts with oven-baked focaccia perfectly seasoned with olive oil and rosemary. Two diners can enjoy a platter of Middle Eastern "butcher" treats, including kebabs. At lunchtime, the Bruno Bar offers tasty, golden chicken wings and a juicy, grilled hamburger with onion rings that put the mall's fast-food joints to shame. Kosher. Sunday-Thursday for lunch and dinner. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. Azrieli Center, Tel Aviv. Phone 609-3030.
