In a small alleyway next to Jaffa's famous Clock Tower is a small wine bar that also serves as a restaurant. The atmosphere is cavelike, but rows of candles light up the darkness. The menu offers seafood, such as fresh oysters and mussels, and a selection of beef (great steaks and a delicious veal tartar with truffles) and salad dishes. Superb wine list. Daily for lunch and dinner (until late). Brunch on Friday and Saturday for 85 NIS. Reservations recommended. $$$. Most major credit cards. 2 Yoezer Ish Habira St., Jaffa, Tel Aviv. Phone 683-9115.