Thimphu, Bhutan's capital city, is located in the west of the country and testifies to the nation's struggle to modernize while maintaining its venerated traditions. New buildings are still based on traditional designs, with elaborately painted, trefoil-shaped windows and wooden frames built without nails. But video stores and satellite dishes are cropping up, and there are now Internet cafes in town.
Among Thimphu's sights are the Memorial Chorten (dedicated to the fourth king's late father, Jigme Dorji Wangchuck) and the Tashicho Dzong, a 350-year-old structure built by Shabdrung Ngawang Namgyal and refurbished in the 1960s to house government departments and ministries. In 1993, the National Assembly and some ministries moved to a new building across the river. As the nation's largest monastery, the Dzong is the summer quarters of 1,600 monks. Close by is the country's only public golf course.
Also a short drive from town are the Cheri Gompa, worth the climb for the views, Changgankha Monastery and the early 17th-century Simtokha Dzong (fortress-turned-university).
Shop for local crafts at the multilevel Government Handicraft Emporium (where you can also cash traveler's checks) or at one of several privately run emporiums (Choeki Handicrafts is a good choice for its wide selection and reasonable prices). Budding painters and sculptors can be seen at work at the National Art School, and tours to the National Library, Jungshi Paper Factory and Royal Academy of Performing Arts are rewarding cultural experiences. Stop at the Swiss Bakery, a frequent hangout of tourists and expats, for pastries and coffee.
The National Textile Museum, under the royal patronage of Bhutan's queens, features rare exhibits that were previously loaned to the Peabody Museum. It is definitely worth a stop, whether you're a textile lover or merely someone who appreciates intricate artwork.
Another worthy stop is the National Heritage Museum, the former home of the Thimphu Dzongpon, or governor, that has been preserved in its natural mid-19th-century state. The museum has a display of artifacts used in rural households. It also features demonstrations of rural customs, sampling of historically accurate Bhutanese fare and educational programs for children about rural life in Bhutan. Reservations can be arranged by your tour company and should be included in your tour price.
Thimphu's weekend market is the biggest in Bhutan, and it's well worth a stop. Although many of the crafts items are manufactured imports from India and Nepal, the extensive area of fresh grains and vegetables is worth at least an hour's walk-through. The Thimphu Domche festival takes place in late September-October.
