In the dichotomy that is modern Tokyo, this popular restaurant has a country feel to it with its shoji screens and wooden floors, yet it's located in the basement of an office building near the Ginza and Imperial Hotel. Catering to downtown white-collar workers, it serves a variety of Japanese favorites, including tempura, noodles, box lunches and kaiseki. There's no English menu, but a glass display shows the various set meals available. Daily except Sunday for lunch and dinner. $$. Most major credit cards. Yurakucho Denki Building, 1-7-1 Yurakucho (Hibiya station on the Hibiya, Chiyoda and Toei Mita lines; or Yurakucho station on the Yamanote loop line), Tokyo. Phone 3201-3021.