Hantei occupies a wonderful, old two-story wooden house in a back street in the historic Nezu district, just north of Ueno. Its specialty is kushi-age—morsels of fish, meat and vegetables, coated in bread crumbs and deep-fried. There's no need to order—after the first six items they keep asking if you want more and will carry on serving you until you tell them to stop. Tuesday-Sunday for lunch and dinner. $-$$. No credit cards. 2-12-15 Nezu (near Nezu station on the Chiyoda line), Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo. Phone 3828-1440.
