Not much happens on the Turks and Caicos islands—and some visitors to the Caribbean like it that way. The islands have beautiful beaches and one of the world's largest networks of coral reefs, a source of exceptional diving, snorkeling and fishing. But they're also dry, scrubby, sparsely populated.
Most visitors to the Turks and Caicos head for Providenciales (known locally as Provo), the most developed island in the Turks and Caicos, a chain that trails off the end of the Bahamas. Provo has several luxury hotels and many good restaurants, but it's not a cruise-ship stop, and no one could mistake it for Aruba. Don't look for fashion franchises or fast-food outlets; for many locals, dressing up means a clean T-shirt that doesn't promote a brand of beer.
The rest of these islands that make up the Turks and Caicos have a real outpost feel—but they all have annual festivals, which provide a great time to gather on the beach, renew or start friendships, and eat some local specialties. Before you go, be sure you understand what's there and what's not: Those who want to spend their time next to or under the water—and little else—won't be disappointed. Turks and Caicos isn't the place for those looking for lush Caribbean scenery or a glamour destination.
Sights—Historic Cockburn (pronounced
Coe-b'n)Town (Grand Turk); the romantic ruins of Cheshire Hall plantation (Providenciales) and Wades Green (North Caicos); the beautiful stalactites of Conch Bar Cave System (Middle Caicos); the "pirate and shipwrecked sailors" rock carvings at Sapodilla Hill (Providenciales).
Museums—The story of the Lucayans, displays of the Molasses Reef shipwreck and the early history of the islands (sisal and cotton plantations, salt raking) at the Turks and Caicos National Museum.
Memorable Meals—Bugaloo's conch fritters and conch salad (Providenciales); seared tuna at the Magnolia Wine Bar (Providenciales); cracked conch at The Sand Bar (Grand Turk).
Late Night—A night dive off the coast of Grand Turk; karaoke at the minigolf in Providenciales.
Walks—A stroll along any of the beaches, especially at Grace Bay.
Especially for Kids—Caicos Conch Farm to learn how the shellfish is raised and harvested; Little Water Cay to marvel at the minidragons (also known as rock iguanas).
Part of the British West Indies, the Turks and Caicos consist of 40 islands, islets and cays (pronounced
keys) lying at the southern end of the Bahamas. The Turks Islands (Grand Turk and Salt Cay) are separated from the Caicos Islands by the 22-mi-/35-km-wide Columbus Passage. Only eight of the islands are inhabited: North Caicos, Middle Caicos, South Caicos, Grand Turk, Parrot Cay, Pine Cay, Salt Cay and Providenciales (also called Provo). Development is under way on West Caicos and Ambergris Cay. Development plans are also in the works for previously uninhabited Dellis Cay and Water Cay.
Grand Turk, Salt Cay and South Caicos get little rain: The terrain is covered with cacti, thorny scrub, low trees and crabgrass. The northern islands are greener and have a scattering of Casuarina trees, as well as Caribbean pines, the national tree.
The earliest inhabitants of the Turks and Caicos were Tainos (also called Lucayans), descendants of South American Arawaks who arrived by canoe from Hispaniola and Cuba nearly 200 years before Columbus. There are theories that Columbus first set foot in the New World on Grand Turk—not San Salvador in the Bahamas. However, most history books credit Ponce de Leon as being the first European to sight Grand Turk (he did so in 1512). During the 16th and 17th centuries, pirates frequented the islands and used them as a base for raiding treasure ships returning to Europe. Many ships also wrecked on the treacherous Caicos Banks, the area where the deep waters of the Turks Island Passage suddenly become very shallow. The few permanent settlers, many from Bermuda, went for whaling and salt production. Abandoned salt pans and windmills can still be seen on Grand Turk and Salt Cay.
Other settlers arrived after being on the losing end of the American Revolution. Loyalists from Georgia and northern Florida brought their slaves and cotton-growing expertise to the islands. You can visit the ruins of Wades Green in North Caicos and Cheshire Hall on Providenciales to get a real feel for the difficult and isolated life of these early pioneers. Boll-weevil infestations, devastating hurricanes and the end to slavery in the British colonies in 1834 caused the demise of the plantations. The Loyalists left for other British islands, leaving their former slaves behind.
By the beginning of the 19th century, the two island groups—the Turks and the Caicos—were joined with the Bahamas, then a British colony. Unhappy with their Bahamian administrators, the islanders annexed themselves to another British colony, Jamaica, in the 1870s. They were governed from Jamaica until that country's independence in 1962. Since then, a governor appointed by the Queen of England administers the Turks and Caicos. The locally elected government, however, controls all daily affairs. Although islanders supported a referendum for full independence during their first general election in 1976, subsequent elections have called for the islands to remain a British crown colony.
The main attractions on the Turks and Caicos include diving, snorkeling, sea kayaking, fresh seafood, isolated white-sand beaches, deep-sea fishing and bird sanctuaries.
The Turks and Caicos are best suited to those who want watersports, solitude and relaxation. Those seeking abundant nightlife and lush tropical vistas will be disappointed.
There is much speculation about the origin of the islands' name. The most accepted version is that they were named for the indigenous barrel-shaped Turks Head cactus, which resembles a Turkish fez, and from a mutation of the Spanish word
cayos, meaning small islands.
A site excavated by archaeologists on Grand Turk has yielded the oldest Lucayan Indian artifacts yet found in the Bahamian archipelago, dating to AD 750.
On Middle Caicos, a boy in love will plant a stringy, yellowish-orange flower called a love vine in his sweetheart's yard. Residents can predict the outcome of a relationship by how well the love vine grows.
After astronaut John Glenn made his historic orbital flight in 1962, the first place he touched land was on Grand Turk Island, then the location of a NASA tracking station.
Glowworms put on a spectacular light show a few days after each full moon as they perform their monthly mating dance. It is known as "Christmas in the water." For a good view of the luminous creatures, take a small craft into the water on the south side (the calmest side) of any of the islands about an hour after sunset. Or better yet, book a night dive.
The Turks and Caicos once proposed becoming part of Canada (in the 1970s). Much to everyone's surprise, especially to those who live in the islands, this topic resurfaces regularly in Canadian politics.
Turks and Caicos residents call themselves Belongers.
Potcake is the local term for a mixed-breed dog. This originates from the word used to describe the scrapings from the bottom of a pot of stew, that wonderful amalgam of different flavors.
The national music of the islands is know as rake 'n' scrape (or ripsaw). A metal scraper or nail is raked over a handsaw's teeth as the blade is bent. The music is accompanied by a goatskin drum, hand accordion, maracas and an acoustic guitar. There's an Annual Ripsaw Festival every July.
