The fast-growing town of Ubud is Bali's cultural center and one of the highlights of the island, although development has transformed the central town into a commercial strip. But Ubud still has a wonderful atmosphere: The main streets are energetic without being tiring, and the people are laid-back and friendly. Turn down any side street and you will be away from the bustle and traffic and in the heart of Balinese village life.
If you're at all interested in art, you'll want to visit a number of Ubud's museums and galleries. First, check out the Neka Museum, just outside of Ubud, and the Puri Lukisan in Ubud's town center, to get a sense of styles. Also visit Agung Rai's Museum of Art in
Pengosekan, a more recent addition, which has a less historically complete but still wonderful collection. Then, visit the Neka Gallery, in town on the main road; the Seniwati Gallery, just off the main road a bit west of Neka Gallery, which specializes in art by women; and I Wayan Sika's gallery.
Ubud has also become a center for fine food, with a number of world-class restaurants that have created a distinctive cuisine blending Balinese, other Indonesian and Western elements. The locations are often just as spectacular as the food. Since Ubud reverts to its peasant-village nature and falls largely silent after 9:30 pm, nightlife is very limited—particularly when compared with boisterous Kuta. However, some of the cafes have evening jazz and pop jam sessions. For information on evening dance performances, inquire at your hotel or the tourist office on the main road.
Be sure to leave time for exploring the many sights around Ubud. Walk through the Monkey Forests (a treat in itself, but watch your possessions—the monkeys are prone to theft) to the adjacent village of Nyuhkuning, which is lined with the shops of wood-carvers. We particularly enjoyed renting bikes and cycling past rice fields and out-of-the-way villages. The area between Ubud and Denpasar is thick with even more craft villages, each with its own specialty. Excursions can be made to the elephant cave temple at Goa Gajah (touristy but interesting), the Royal Temple of Taman Ayun at Mengwi and Penelokan (spectacular view of Batur Volcano and Lake Batur). Bali is 600 mi/965 km east of Jakarta.
