Located a few blocks up the hill from the prime downtown area, this place shares the honor of Nashville's most unique and historic hotel with the Hermitage. The Hermitage charges dearly for the chance to sample baroque-inspired surroundings, but here, midrange train lovers are spoiled for considerably less.
Set in a beautifully restored gray limestone building dating from 1900, this magnificent castlelike structure was once the opulent arrival and departure point of great passenger trains. Unlike some of the nation's great railroad relics, such as Pennsylvania Station in New York City, this treasure was saved from the wrecking ball in 1998, and it continues to impress hotel guests and visitors. The hotel was in the midst of a major overhaul at inspection, with most of the guest rooms completed. Unfortunately, the restaurant was closed, and only breakfast was being
served in the makeshift function room.
The hotel is in the former railway terminal and reflects the aura created by the stunning original architecture. The extravagant grand arrival hall houses the spacious lobby, which boasts an extravagant roll-vaulted ceiling sparkling with Tiffany stained glass. A large fireplace warms the space. Water spouts from the mouths of the four lions guarding the green marble fountain. Other notable details include sculpture, rich Bowling Green, Greystone and Tennessee marble, and a lovely wooden balcony that encircles the fifth floor. The small reception desk, with an original train schedule behind it, gets crowded during peak periods, but smooth staffers handle things with ease. A pianist occasionally entertains on the baby grand in the reception hall.
Some of the interesting public rooms, also used for meetings, show beautiful stained glass set in sweeping arcs above tall windows. Lunch and dinner are available through room service until the restaurant reopens. One of the city's best beer bars is a few steps out the door, and entertainment abounds a few blocks down the street. Guests may need the walk, because the hotel has no health club. The hotel's popular period meeting space accommodates up to 150. Valets handle parking.
Upstairs, narrow hallways lead to individually designed guest rooms, with such details as elaborate plasterwork and crown molding. New furnishings, soft goods and excellent new pillow-top beds mark each of the units. Windows are expansive, with sheers beneath the drapes softening the light and hiding the mostly bland views. (Light sleepers should request rooms facing away from the still-functioning 
rails.) The new 42-inch flat-screen TVs are impressive, and wireless Internet access (fee), desks with ergonomic chairs, coffeemakers, irons and ironing boards, and phones with voice mail and data ports are in all. The updated baths are marble, and all are well maintained and provide massaging showerheads and hair dryers. The friendly staff occasionally stumbles, but generally it keeps everything right on track. Room service stops at 11 pm. A few rooms are set aside for disabled guests. Pets are not permitted.
For train buffs, this is the sophisticated counterpart to the daffy Holiday Inn Chattanooga Choo-Choo, in Chattanooga. Siderodromophobiacs fear not—this train rolls steadily along.
