This hotel, just inside the ramparts of the old city, five minutes' walk from the beach, 3 km north of the airport, offers a level of refinement and style that is so natural that guests cannot help but feel that they are overnighting in the home of a wealthy, well-traveled Moroccan friend. Essaouira is one of the last popular destinations to eschew package tourism, and this exquisite little hotel offers the perfect base from which to sample its treasures. Villa Maroc is composed of four 18th-century houses that, thanks to the creative Moroccan-French couple behind the hotel, have been combined with great skill and attention to detail. As well as being accomplished hoteliers, the owners exhibit laudable design talents in the public areas, where their tastefully displayed collections of antiques and local art fill the public areas and accommodations. Their cultural blend is witnessed at nearly every turn with North African and European knickknacks and styles intertwining seamlessly.
The ground floor is little more than a way station for the doorman who greets guests and guides them upstairs to reception. There is no formal bar—but guests can relax with cocktails in any one of nearly a dozen cozily furnished lounges dotted about the rambling old house. Little planted courtyards are located on each of the three floors, and lapis balconies provide zesty regional flair. The rooftop patio is notable both for its panoramic views and secluded privacy. Antiques and custom-designed contemporary appointments donning rich fabrics, rugs over tile floors, lots of potted plants and fireplaces add comfort to the rooms. Wireless Internet is available at no charge, but guests pay a small fee to use the hotel's computer.
The notable restaurant serving dinner and breakfast only provides two large plank tables in the main hall, as well as a series of smaller nooks for privacy-seekers. Breakfast is included in the rates, and dinner is often part of the package depending on the season. The menu features traditional Moroccan fare with a Continental twist. Service is informal but efficient, and dining moves out to a sea-view terrace in fair weather. Breakfast on the roof terrace is the most unique way to introduce the senses to this world-famous business city (mostly known for its inanimate business hotels versus this type of quaint lodging). Fitness or swimming facilities are lacking, but there are plenty of places to while away the hours in a lounge chair or with a good book. A hammam and host of massage and beauty treatments can also do the trick.
Each of the accommodations is individually decorated and adheres to the old buildings' quirky layout. All display lovely rugs that complement the fabrics and spreads. The rooms' sophisticated decor also integrates works by local artists, including items carved from thuya wood, Essaouira's most famous resource. Whitewashed walls, colorful Oriental rugs and locally crafted pottery add a charming cultural influence. All rooms lack TVs, minibars and phones but are naturally cooled by sea breezes and warmed with heaters in winter. Three units share a bath, and two guest quarters are joined at the bath. Showers are more common than tubs, and lovely tile, period fixtures and toiletries are in each. Room 15 is a wonderful unit with a fireplace of its own, but like many of the rooms here, it overlooks the central courtyard and can be dim. Four suites have fireplaces as well, and the suites in general offer perhaps the best bargain here, with rates that make booking ahead—way ahead—a must.
Pets are not allowed to disturb the peace here. Room service is always an option. With its hand on the heartbeat of the city, this delightfully laid-back hotel provides another facet to the pack of design-hotels sweeping across Morocco. This hotel may lack the sophistication of La Maison Arabe in Marrakech, but it is undeniably more authentic.